Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Again, really nice stuff. Everything bolted right up, no problems. Nice to have a product that performs as advertised and not have to worry about having sent them out for powder before mock-up. I painted the rotors and calipers the same scheme as the front brakes--I think they turned out well. Part of me wants to paint the calipers red, but I think the subtle grey fits this truck better...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Still have to re-flare the axle hard-lines to mate up with the Kore3 braided lines--if that doesn't work, I'll just bend up some new. I like the end result; looks almost factory :chevy:
In final assembly, I did find that I will need longer wheel studs and that the pad slightly contacts the rotor hub when rolling. Studs are cheap and I should be able to modify the pad backing plate to clear... |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Great work as always!
Is there any braking advantage to placing the caliper on the front side of the axle vs the rear side? I would also be interested in the "longer wheel stud" part number you use. |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
A little research found this:
Stock rear stud: Dorman 610-138 Knurl Diameter 0.535 Package Quantity 10 Quick-Start Nose No Shoulder Length 0.3125 Stud Material Steel Thread Handling Right Hand Thread Thread Size 1/2-20 Under Head Length 1.53125 Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud Potential replacement: Dorman 610-258 Knurl Diameter 0.536 Package Quantity 10 Quick-Start Nose No Shoulder Length 0.25 Stud Material Steel Thread Handling Right Hand Thread Thread Size 1/2-20 Under Head Length 1.71875 Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud So, approx 4 more threads engaged which should be 9.5-10, using the "engage the same depth as diameter" rule, on a 1/2-20 stud- this is just about perfect. Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Thanks for the Dorman parts numbers.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
nice work as always. I couldn't tell for sure from the pics...but it looked like there's no inner or outer parking brake. Are you running w/o, did I miss something, or do you have something else in mind?
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Looking good, nice work!
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In related news, I picked up a 610-258 at the LAPS-- doesn't look like they will be long enough, so on to the next plan, whatever that is... Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Just curious. There are trans tailshaft and rear axle pinion type p-brakes that attach to the d-shaft.
http://www.dojodesign.com/toyota/cha...ansmission.jpg http://tsmmfg.com/003-1.jpg |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Ok, studs. The stockers are too short for the discs, the other replacements aren't much longer, so the third option is a F*rd part.
Dorman 610-298 Type : Serrated Stud Thread : 1/2-20 Knurl Dia. : .547" Length : 2" Shoulder Length : 11/16" I grabbed one of each from the LAPS for comparison: |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Length comparisons. I will have to slightly enlarge the axle holes to fit the .547 knurl of the longer studs, but I can live with that. Also may have to use long lug nuts or trim the speed-start tips...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Couldn't say...just did a few keyword searches. :lol:
Seems the 9" has the most options. I'm guessing captainfab could come up with something for our 12 bolts tho! |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
nice job !!! i personally like the calipers on that gray on your truck !!!!!
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Nice build man. I may be late but never to late to subscribe.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Okey-doke. Finally wrapped up the brake install. Got the '70 Corvette master cylinder and combo valve mounted. The new studs also worked out perfectly for the rear; I didn't even have to drill, they pressed right in and give 13-14 turns of the lugnut before they're snug.
Boring pic sorry, but after my wife helping bleed the lines and bedding-in the rear pads, this beast STOPS! Calling this part of the project done :) Next up, lower control arms and steering linkage... |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
where's the pix of the master and valve ?
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Shot some pics just for you :D So, after installing my expensive, custom 1" bore master cylinder and having basically no pedal feel and loooooong travel, combined with poor stopping, I swapped to a '70 Corvette power brakes 1.125" deep bore style I picked up at the LAPS. Painted 'er up with the same Eastwood grey I used on the calipers; it bolted right up to the booster and my existing lines screwed right in. Works like a charm--pedal feel returned and it locks 'em up no problem. The combination valve is a CPP unit that I picked up on eBay for cheap. All the lines screwed right into it as well, thanks to GM standardization. Crappy, night-time, cell-phone pics- sorry, it doesn't like to focus at night... |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
[QUOTE=gringoloco;5718943]Sorry I missed your comment--been doing the family thing and spending time chasing down a possible new project--I need a 67-72 that I can haul the family in ;)
cool , so i take it we are looking for a sub then !!!! |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
I vote for a blazer for the family project...
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More to come :) Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Just cant get the Blazer out of the memory bank EY!!!!! I know of a couple that are decent.
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