Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Nice Score on those parts...:metal:
Keep Rockin' |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
getting the next batch of parts pulled for engine install, i moved the power brake pedal assembly and noticed the pedal has a small metal tabbed welded to the top of the pedal. both my 63's do not have this provision. i wonder if its a specific pedal used for factory power brake trucks. i never find any factory optioned pb trucks in the yards to compare them too.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Couple of pics of the tab on the power brake pedal. 1st pic is my factory 63 brake pedal. I checked both trucks and they are the same. 2nd and 3rd pics are of the power brake pedal and you can see the tab at the top of the pedal.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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After a lot of thought, research and talking with big block truck members I have decided to use the CPP tubular transmission mount being that my borg warner has a tailshaft mount. The bellhousing mount was made in a big block application in the 2nd gen trucks, but hard to come across. If I use the 6cyl/v8 mount it will take a lot of fab to move it forward and with the time and $ I can have the CPP mount and be done with it.
This will solve several issues. I can slide the motor forward some to gain my valve cover and HEI clearance. It opens a lot more room for exhaust. And I don't have to do any firewall work. I will still use the cast iron bell housing, it will just be a 3 point mount instead of 4. I have a CPP mount already, but as I found out Sunday night, its made for a 34" frame, not the 63-72 as it was advertised. Part was purchased off a forum member and he didn't know it either as its boxed and labeled for a 63-72. After talking with Bluebomber and verifying his 79 frame dimensions, it seems the mount I have is for a 73+ frame. So it will be sold and I have already ordered a 63-72 mount from CPP this morning. So after the rain passes, I'll get the trans mated to the engine. I installed the bell housing Sunday and new grade 8 bolts to protect the flywheel/clutch assembly on install. Driveshaft will need a new yoke to match the borg anyways so length isn't an issue. I'll either get a new one or have this one converted to work with the truck. So some problems overcome and some new ones tossed into the mix. CPP part #CP9427 $79.00 |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
the build is coming along nicely man!! great work!!
On your motor mounts i would reccomend drilling your own holes an inch back from the forward set of factory holes. The valve covers and distributor will still clear and it gives you more room for rad and fan setup. I ended up scooting my engine back because it really didnt have much room in from of the engine for a fan |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
i appreciate the kind words. i get more done on some days than others. rain got the better hand tonight as the engines got to get moved downhill from the engine shed and taken to ground zero. hoping to get it moved down tomorrow. i need to get trans attached and check header to frame clearance. i plan to set the engine back to where i have comfortable clearance on the dist. and valve covers. hoping to have last of frame and engine install done this weekend. trans mount will just install where it is bolted to trans in relation to the frame so that makes that easy. then we'l start on exhaust.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
got the frame trimmed last night and the frame work blended in and undercoated to match the rest of the frame. probably would have been easier to do while frame was bare, but lots of tape and covering on the frame and i got it done. will get pics up once they upload
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
A few pics of the frame trimming. Took around 5/16" off both sides. Placed the mounts on the frame and laid out 3/4" from the back of the mount to the taper where the frame trims back from the factory. Did this on both sides and was done based off all the big block swap builds I could find. I tried to match the factory step where they tapered the frame. This should allow plenty of clearance. If not, the grinder will come back out. Used a new 24grit disc and took about 15 min per side to get the lines nice and straight. Had a small run on the pass side undercoat, but luckily this stuff will blend nicely and I'll do the final touch up tonight before moving the engine down. It's all lined up to be set in tonight for sure!!!! Can't wait.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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A few pics of the frame trimming. Took around 5/16" off both sides from behind the forward mounting holes to the taper where the frame trims back from the factory. Did this on both sides and was done based off all the big block swap builds I could find. Should allow plenty of clearance. I tried to match the factory step where they tapered the frame. If not, the grinder will come back out. Used a new 24grit disc and took about 15 min per side to get the lines nice and straight. Had a small run on the pass side undercoat, but luckily this stuff will blend nicely and I'll do the final touch up tonight before moving the engine down. Its under the engine perch anyways...so may not even be visible once perch is bolted down. It's all lined up to be set in tonight for sure!!!! Can't wait.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Last pic of frame clearance. Undercoating was still wet, so it look blotchy, but this stuff blends great and will dry the same as the reat.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
got home and drilled the frame to set the mounts back 1" from the forward position. got tools set up for engine install while i waited on austin to come over from ft.bragg. we got the engine moved down from the shed to the frame. got the transmission mated and the engine/trans installed. have around 3/4"-1" at pass side valve cover/firewall. will get rest of engine done while i wait on the trans mount to arrive. was 9:30 by time we got done and tools up working by a shop light. will get some pics in the morning. but another milestone. was glad to see the engine and trans finally go in. so far all my frame prep looks good. plenty of room for the hei removal when time to prime engine. will get headers fitted tomorrow and start tightening all the an lines to the engine.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
We need pics!
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Here you go....as requested.
As I said last night....was well after dark by time we got done. Didn't even have time to move the engine lift. Snapped these pics this morning. We actually did pretty good on getting it in there without much metal to metal contact. Touch up will be minimal. The leveler was a golden ticket to this show. Sure did make the trans and engine install much easier. This is the driver side. Plenty of room. And big thanks to Austin (bluebomber) for his time and patience with helping get the engine and trans moved and installed. I owe you an all you can drink beer night!!! |
Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Passenger side and a pic before it was moved down to the truck. The last pic is mating the trans to the engine and the hydraulic slave cylinder for the clutch being installed.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Have lots of little stuff to do still. Have to reinstall pulleys, plumb hydraulic clutch lines, oil pressure, etc....and still need to complete pass side valve cover. Have around 2-3 hrs left on it and paint. Heres the driver side again.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Very Nice… Looking Good!!!:metal:
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Ordered a different throttle return bracket as I didn't like the one I originally went with. Ordered a PRP in blue part # PRP1650
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
The BB looks right at home there! drool drool...
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Have you test fit the headers with those motor mounts yet? Going to be tight.!! Sure looks goood sitting in there.!!
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
Looks really good in there. The blue looks great!
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
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The pics don't show the clearance very well, but there is actually quite a bit of room around them. Frame clearance shouldn't be an issue with the trimming I did. |
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