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-   -   Daverods project 66 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=336798)

SCOTI 10-31-2009 11:38 AM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Strodder (Post 3595673)
Dave you got me thinking last night. You can also raise the front portion of the frame in front of the cab. Like you would do in the rear. It would raise your engine too, so you can't go too high. It would for sure get your 20s on and lay frame. You would also have to drop the front portion of the frame in front of the cross member to mount the sheet metal and bumper. Lots of work, and the cheapest way to go.
Watahyahknow's idea is good too, but looks like it would be expensive. Do you have a link to there web site?

You've just described a frame 'Z' where the frame stub is cut-off & re-attached higher vs. the original rails. If you've got more time/talent vs. money, it's worth doing. If your lacking either, Nathans Dropmember does the same thing & fixes many 'compromises' that people experience when notching a stock crossmember (and the extra work for the radiator core support when doing a 'Z').

I've done the crossmember notch but it doesn't give you much for the work. To combine a c.member notch + frame 'Z' is just extra work. Skip the c.member notch & raise the rails up more when doing the 'Z' (I realize the OP has already done the c.member notch).

Strodder 10-31-2009 11:45 AM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 3595722)
You've just described a frame 'Z' where the frame stub is cut-off & re-attached higher vs. the original rails. If you've got more time/talent vs. money, it's worth doing. If your lacking either, Nathans Dropmember does the same thing & fixes many 'compromises' that people experience when notching a stock crossmember (and the extra work for the radiator core support when doing a 'Z').

I've done the crossmember notch but it doesn't give you much for the work. To combine a c.member notch + frame 'Z' is just extra work. Skip the c.member notch & raise the rails up more when doing the 'Z' (I realize the OP has already done the c.member notch).

I know it's called "Z"ing the frame. Not everybody knows that term. I think Dave has the talent to do it. It's a lot of work, and scary to do.

SCOTI 10-31-2009 12:11 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Strodder (Post 3595730)
I know it's called "Z"ing the frame. Not everybody knows that term. I think Dave has the talent to do it. It's a lot of work, and scary to do.

I figured as much but wanted to insert the 'term' w/the description for those not familiar.

Strodder 10-31-2009 12:13 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 3595769)
I figured as much but wanted to insert the 'term' w/the description for those not familiar.

You described it better :lol:

jgh64pkup 10-31-2009 12:22 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
see dave i told you that you need to z the frame :D

watahyahknow 10-31-2009 12:24 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
the Z ing makes for a lot of sheetmetal adaptations , another way would be to channel or floor the body over the frame wish keeps the frame stock but limits headroom in the cab.
channeling is just wat i says two sheetmetal channels made in the floor to drop the whole lot over the frame it does leave a big speedbump in the middle of the floor in the cab and the stock carpet whont fit no more
the space to the roof stays the same
the biggest challenge is to rethink the sheetmetal in front of the cab (innerfenders radiatorsupport and all that lot need to be shortened and mounted lower ) and making sure the stuff hanging from the bulkhead whont hit the engine and the top of the engine whont hit the hood .

flooring is basicly cutting the floor and most of the bulkhead and some of the rearwall of the cab trimming it the amount you want to go lower and reweld it in , this leaves the floor stock looking but with a step in the doorframe and less room inside the cab floor to roof
they do this a lot when they want to drag the body to bottom of the doors (they remove all sheetmetal below it )
you can still fit the stock carpet back in after some trimming , the rest of the sheetmetal lowering stays the same as with channeling the clearance problems too

the bed can be either floored too or lowered by shortening the mounts and cutting holes above the pumpkin and rearframe above the axle

in my eyes flooring looks the best but is the most work and the porterbuild dropmember is the easest safing a LOT of work to make the rest fit

on duallyscene.com they have a lot of pictures of these adaptations though they mostly use 77 and up trucks , there laying frame with 22 inch truckrims under there pickups

sorry stroddler missed you request there for a moment heres the link to the dropmember http://www.porterbuiltstreetrods.com hes building a new website tough

Strodder 10-31-2009 02:31 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
There is so many ways to get this done. You just have to pick the one that you can do, or can afford.
Thanks for the link watahyahknow ;)

daverod 10-31-2009 03:16 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Life is so simple.:smoke: All I need is more money. Couple grand. I do like the drop member. Wonder what I have to do to keep my arms. Don't really want to buy arms and a member.

SCOTI 10-31-2009 04:34 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by daverod (Post 3596033)
Life is so simple.:smoke: All I need is more money. Couple grand. Suck "I can fix that for ya for a couple grand". I do like the drop member. Wonder what I have to do to keep my arms. Don't really want to buy arms and a member.

You can re-use the stock arms w/the original DM. The later versions can use OE arms but they'll need to be from a 73-87.

daverod 10-31-2009 05:42 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 3596143)
You can re-use the stock arms w/the original DM. The later versions can use OE arms but they'll need to be from a 73-87.

The arms I have now are off a 71. But I'm going to change the control arms and ball joints to the 73 type. Do they still sale the orginal DM?;)

daverod 10-31-2009 05:42 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup (Post 3595787)
see dave i told you that you need to z the frame :D

When ?

SCOTI 10-31-2009 05:46 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by daverod (Post 3596238)
The arms I have now are off a 71. But I'm going to change the control arms and ball joints to the 73 type. Do they still sale the orginal DM?;)

You could check w/Nathan on the V1 DM. I know they pop up 'used' from time to time as some have upgraded to his newer versions. If you're upgrading to 73-up arms/BJ's, the newer version (V3) will work for you.

watahyahknow 10-31-2009 06:44 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
the cheapest way offcourse would be living with the fact it isnt laying frame ............or mount smaller rims

jgh64pkup 11-01-2009 01:26 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Post 1056
Quote:

Originally Posted by daverod (Post 3596239)
When ?


daverod 11-01-2009 07:15 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by watahyahknow (Post 3596318)
the cheapest way offcourse would be living with the fact it isnt laying frame ............or mount smaller rims

And I could use that money saved by not lying frame to buy some cool wheels and tires.:metal: bDo I really care if my frame is a couple inches high:?:lol: I'll lay frame in the back.:metal: The outside diameter of thew tires I have now is about 30" My spindle is at 12" so my frame will be about 3" in the air. If I use a tire like 265 35z r20 they are only 27" in diameter.

ruffrida2005 11-01-2009 09:59 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
you know, even if you dont lay frame, I will be. haha

You could always body drop it to look like it is.

watahyahknow 11-02-2009 02:52 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...43#post3598643

dropmember installed on a 69

daverod 11-02-2009 07:51 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by watahyahknow (Post 3598918)

They are nice.:lol:

daverod 11-04-2009 10:11 AM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
[img]http://www.*****************/files/P-47-63-87-Raised-Crossmember-Kit.jpg[/img] They make it to easy.:metal: Does take all the headache away. Rack and pinion and your done. Then I could be like Ruff.

61TWUK 11-04-2009 10:27 AM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
whose kit is that?

daverod 11-04-2009 11:16 AM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by 61TWUK (Post 3602038)
whose kit is that?

It was on http://www.*****************/front_page$ 1199. I think Porterbuilt makes one too. I can't get to his site though.

watahyahknow 11-04-2009 12:47 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
it actually looks exactly like the porterbuild one

daverod 11-04-2009 09:18 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
3 Attachment(s)
Took my fenders off my 64, ordered some bottom patches. Put my body on my frame. Sat in it went up and down.:metal:laid some frame.:lol::lol:

daverod 11-04-2009 09:19 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
1 Attachment(s)
Even my sled lays frame:lol::lol:

ruffrida2005 11-04-2009 10:17 PM

Re: Daverods project 66
 
That kit is based off of Nates kit, but it has a bunch of stuff done diffrent and better then Nates. Mostly less welded parts and better motor mounts.

You still couldn't be like me Dave I have the P-51 kit and that's the P-47


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