Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Chris, I think the engine looks great. Personally I like some color comtrast, and the only time I do blocks in black is to help hide any leaks :lol:

I hate cleaning crud off more than about anything else on a project, but it's so nice when it's done.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it, think that it would look good in the truck. I have always liked the hi-po car big block look.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It looks good like it is, but you know I like the black and orange more. I will say that if you go with it like it is, you better powdercoat that intake an aluminum color because it won't stay pretty very long in the elements. I would seal up those billet valve covers too.

Where does the A/C compressor mount?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm kind of wishing I had painted my engine black right about now! :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks. I like some contrast, too, but I’m concerned it might be a little busy :confused:
I do think it would pair well with the “muscle” feel of the truck with the Muncie, Hurst with white shift ball, and grey spoke wheels.
You bring up good points, which I’m not sure I’m committed enough to the look to properly remedy. I would paint or powder the intake and probably chrome the VCs. My other option is to do similar to what you did with a scuff and shoot. Honestly, I only grabbed the billet specialties covers because I didn’t want any oil leaks with the stamped steel stockers. I definitely don’t want something I’ll have to polish all of the time, I learn from others’ mistakes :exit:

The plan for the AC compressor is stock-ish location. Need to get the motor back in and see if plan A (Alan Grove with current compressor) will work. I fear it will interfere with the steering rack, so then on to plan B (Dirty Dingo or Holley). If. One of that works, maybe I’ll save my pennies for a Holley mid mount setup or just go ahead and install that rear sliding glass I want :lol:

LS engines don’t leak, just sayin’ ;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Touche'!

I know, I know... But I have WAY too much invested in my little small block to change directions now. Brandi will kill me!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Personally I would like the black and orange, nothing shinin' up the joint. Subtle is sexy.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I think you hit the nail on the head Chris, I think It's perfect the way it is, I love the orange.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks damn good brother, simple but tuff

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Tough decision...I think either way you go is going to look great....I really like the pics a few posts back!! :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's a tough one. I did mine all orange and black and I like it, but I see the muscle car look in the current color scheme you have and it looks nice too. I do agree that you'll need to do something with the aluminum pieces though. You'll be polishing like crazy if you don't. And that intake won't look good for long if it's left bare.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Though not an LS, I did it. I wanted the older Musclecar period look for my later model Squarebody TBI equipped set-up. While mine IS a big-block, the newer stuff bared very little visual resemblance to it's Musclecar precedent.

I had the factory painted steel valve covers chromed because they were:
A) Cheap
B) I already possessed them
C) After comparing to TRUE 70's era BBC chrome v.covers, they were much smoother.

I used an Edelbrock TBI intake vs. the cast iron BBC intake w/the TBI adapter & a period correct dual snorkel air cleaner to top it off.
I re-routed wiring & other asthetics to appear less electronic. I liked the older look once finished.
I also did the 'Built by Chevrolet Tonawanda' v.cover & 454 air cleaner engine displacement decals to finish off the 'look'. The repop decals didn't survive underhood life for long before coming apart & have been removed...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wow! I really like the look now.
I'm not a fan of the orange and black.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I agree, but this made me re-think my former stance on the subject
Thanks, it does have a nice classic look to it
Agreed, thanks
Super tough, I’m still not decided. I do have a few more ideas, too
That’s the thing, not sure I’m in love with it enough to make it permanent
I really like the air cleaner setup. Is that the LT1/Z28 base?
Thanks, I’m still undetermined. I like a simple, stock look, usually

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Another variant. Pretty sure the water pump will be orange and the accessories black no matter what else happens...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like this direction, I'd paint the intake orange and the air cleaner lid black too.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yes. The only mod was the breather tube @ the bottom of the base. It required tweaking for my app (to clear the TB).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Either way Chris, These setups are way sexier than 99% of the LS motors out there in our trucks. Including my own. I dig it either way.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I have absolutely no problem w/a 'de-cluttered' OE-LS look or a cleaned-up & engineered appearance on the LS platform. That being said, the truck style engine cover is the only one I care for as others appear 'gimmicky' when used in swaps.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I agree with your Muncie/Hurst/grey spoke idea for the hi-po look. Tough decision, because they both look awesome. You could do like some guys do with wheels, keep both around and switch them out when you get bored with the current look. Keep it up man, you are doing great.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm starting to really like this look. I've been considering something like your first pic on my '67 but more of a cast/brushed finish for the breather and valve covers.

I also saw on IG where someone painted the engine with script valve covers a fawn color which would match my interior. I thought that might look cool.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I've finally made it all the way through this thread so far!

After a long hiatus, I'm just at the point of body re-assembly (inside of cab painted and firewall) and cab ready to be installed on the frame. Unfortunately my rolling chassis was pretty much completed before I got pulled into this build thread otherwise it probably would have influenced a bunch of the choices I made then (3-ish years ago). I'm also going 6.0 LS but with a 6-speed, so am interested in your setup and detailing of the engine.

Thanks gringoloco for all the effort you put into showing and explaining all the great work you are doing on your builds!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Super nice build thread Chris. I have been keeping up with your thread for about 6 months now after reading the bulk of it and not being able to stop :flag:

When your doing small work like the radio portion of the dash, are you using an aerosol primer or are you using a gun? And what brand of primer are you using? Do you use epoxy and 2k high build or something else? Just looking for similarities to what I'm about to do on my build.

Thanks,
Tom

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Appreciate it, very much. I just hope that my rambling can be helpful or entertaining.
Thanks for the kind words. For the dash, I used aerosol products from SprayMax. Super high quality, professional, 2-part paints in the convenience of a spray can, highly recommend. I also had my local paint store mix up the base coat in a rattle can, so that whole project was “spray paint”.

I did break out the real paint gun today, though (more to come).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

So, a brief update on the valve covers: I’ve decided to stick with the orange and black theme under the hood. As much as I like the “chrome” look, I’m just not in love with it.

Since I don’t want plain valvecovers, but I also don’t want the leaks that come along with stamped steel stockers, I decided to modify the billet specialties pieces to look more like GM parts.

I used the aluminum brazing rods you see at all the car shows to attach 2” x 1/8” strips to the tops. They still need a bit of body work, but I’m liking the concept. They will get painted orange to match...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Interesting. I like this direction.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I also placed an order with Rick’s Upholstery in TN. I came up with a door panel design that pays homage to the ‘72 style, but without the bulky plastic feel. While they are building the door panels, they will also be providing a new seat cover to match. I hope to see these items in the next month or so. Finally doing away with the “temporary” horse blankets that have been there for, what 7-8 years now :waah:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, Scot. It came to me in a dream :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and in other news:


Firewall is painted! Layed some HotRodFlatz LeMans blue today and it came out looking pretty good. Not perfect, but as I age, I’m learning to live with that :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

And with the masking removed, still not fully dried, but I couldn’t wait

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks great Chris...may need to borrow/steal the seat cover design...if not a couple more things....like the old saying goes "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Everything looks fantastic! It's showing all the effort that you put into it. Unfortunately, now I'm going to have to modify my valve covers. :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I have no copyrights, yet :lol:
We seem to keep doing this to each other. If it helps you feel any better, every time I see your Blazer I think I need new wheels...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like the door panel plan , can't wait to see it done. Seat looks good . Oh ya, the firewall looks great.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks a lot. Really looking forward to getting the upholstery installed

Feels good to be finally bolting some things on again. The truck now has 3 pedals! The CapatainFab hydraulic clutch master works nicely, but took a bit more trimming than I had planned for. Still managed not to destroy the freshly painted firewall, so that’s a bonus...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

These creative subtle modifications are why this truck will truly be one of a kind. I can't help but pat myself on my back thinking that I had some influence on your no chrome decision:lol: I'm seriously loving your orange and black choice! Chris, you mentioned Rick's Upholstery will be providing a seat cover to match your door panel design. The blue seat cover you posted appears stock to me, is that the one from Rick's?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Appreciate the compliments and the influence :lol:

The example seat cover pictured above from Rick’s mimics the factory “waterfall” style, yes, but will be patterned to fit my 88-98 bench seat. There will also be French seams around the edges, instead of piping. Just a few subtle changes to modernize the classic, original look. I think I may have just unintentionally established a theme...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

duplicate...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Love it!

Save the manuals :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, and I agree 100%. I just read a Car and Driver article about the new GT500, and the moment I read “manual transmission not available”, I flipped the page to the next article. Not that I would buy one, but I don’t even wanna read about a paddle shifter :lol: