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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Looks great, too!
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Vic,
What size are those carriage bolts for your Bed? I can get you some new Zinc coated ones if you like.......just let me know what size/length and how many you need;) Ben |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Hey Vic... I am coming to K C a week from Saturday... If you are around I would like to try and stop by and meet you and see your truck...
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Heh, heh, heh.....
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Lol!
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Looks nice Vic! so will you do the inside of the bed with this stuff now too?
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I did get the bed pretty well assembled today. I need to do some adjusting so the tailgate gaps are correct and then tack weld the bedsides to the floor in back to keep them from moving. Other than that, I'm about ready to set the body work aside for a little bit and revamp the suspension. |
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Dude... that is sick!!!!... I can't wait to see it...
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Great work Vic.
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The bed really looks flawless Vic! Nice work.
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Great stuff, Vic!
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outstanding!
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It really looks sweet
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Your bed is looking awesome. I used the same fuel door on mine.
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Bag installation started today. Had to do some mods to the mounting plates that came with the kit as the holes didn't line up quite right with the bags. The mill made short work of that. Afterwards, I removed the springs, shock mounts, driveshaft and u-bolts. The forum wasn't a big help regarding how much the lowering blocks change the pinion angle. Some said they ran the blocks as is, others used pinion angle shims. Mathematically, the blocks should require a 2.25 degree angle to stay the same as without blocks. With one block in place I took some rudimentary measurements. It looks like it would be best to go ahead and mill some angle into the blocks and maybe save having to R&R them later. I know that some members have flipped the front control arm mounts to compensate for the pinion angle change. But other say there may be interference issues doing that. So modifying the blocks seems the best route for me. Also need to remove about 5/8" from the u-bolt legs. The scrub line will be close enough as it is without all that extra thread hanging down.
I'm hoping the driveshaft will wind up in about the same place. I have enough clearance to move in or out a small amount but not a bunch. Again, not much info out there. Which may be good, because if it were a big problem, I imagine you'd see more chatter about it. I did see where guys running two piece shafts have shimmed the support bearing to fix fitment issues. But I have a one piece shaft, so that isn't an option. More to come... |
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Looking good mon
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Had to take a little time for a couple of side projects today, but still managed to get a few things done on CRLS. I went ahead and milled 3 degrees off the lowering blocks. In retrospect, two would have been enough, but the extra won't hurt a thing. When the pinion climbs under acceleration, it will be closer to where it should be anyway. Both blocks are in place and the driveshaft reinstalled. Looks like the d/s went in about 1/4" but I had enough clearance built in that it won't bottom out. Made some bushings out of chromoly tubing since the bolts for the bags are all 3/8-16. Then, because I had to oblong the holes in the mounting plates to fit the hole pattern in the bags, I made a template to more precisely transfer the location of the holes to the frame and trailing arms. I'll start with the upper holes and then figure out where the lower ones need to be. Can't wait to get hot drill chips in my hair and down the neck of my t-shirt.
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Nice progress... waiting for the next installment. Everything you do seem very clean and sanitary. Good attention to detail. Great work.
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What is "proper" pinion angle on our rear ends? I used my old rear diff. to set mine, now I wonder if it's binding or, something. When I drive it, it just doesn't feel right? there's a little noise coming from the drivetrain I'm not used to. Anyway, thanks for posting all the cool Ideas. |
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