Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Kinda bummed on the transparent steering wheel. I contacted the guy that makes them, and he responded that he doesn’t do aftermarket wheels at all. So I guess I’ll have to find happiness with either the black wheel or a metalflake blue version.

I also managed to squeeze in a few minutes of truck time over the last few days and completed some minor interior refinements.

The lone remaining red safety switch cover was replaced with a new black version that reads “fast idle”. A second shuttle style switch guard was installed next to it for the neutral safety circuit. The wrinkle finish hole covers next to the glove box door were removed for a gloss black repaint, but after soaking in Simple Green overnight they looked so beautiful (turned aluminum) I chucked them in the drill and polished them both to a chrome like finish with Semi-Chrome polish. And finally I pulled the prism tape off the evaporator bezel and restored the original black and gray paint. The tape looked pretty cool in real life, but gave a bland and boring appearance in pictures.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/908/GH3MXg.jpg

Back to the kitchen cabinets tomorrow. So far I’ve stripped all the drawers (13) and only have 36 more doors to go. Yikes!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Bummer on the wheel, but the refinements are Spot-On!!!:mm:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

looking at that interior never gets old. i don't know how you could ever improve on it... but you do.

looks great Mark!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

This winter has been so mild, I checked with the weather people this morning and they’re predicting we’re essentially done here in the eastern part of Washington. There will be some additional snow, but very little that’s going to stick. So I decided it was time for the annual mag wheel/tire cleanup. I’d like to get them back on the truck tomorrow. I usually leave the snow tires on until the last legal day (April 1st), but there just hasn’t been much winter weather at all, and on the bad days I can just leave the truck in the garage. I want to wash it first, so the rally wheels are nice and clean for storage.

In no particular order the drill starts by washing the wheels front and back. Here’s one of the front wheels which get pretty dirty on the back side because of the disc brakes:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/913/fYl4Oe.jpg

I dig all the rocks out of the tread (mainly on the back tires), including tiny pieces of rock that get stuck in the siping. I then touch up/recolor any of the white letters that start to show through:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/wz1uW2.jpg

I do this with the big fat Sharpie markers. They are basically filled with India Ink, which is the blackest and most permanent substance I’ve found for coloring white letters black:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/905/rQw9lc.jpg

It’s a bummer because back in the 50’s & 60’s there was a product called “Tire Black” that came in a pint can and covered whitewalls in one coat. It was available in every parts store I ever visited, but it’s gone from the market now. It colored any tire a deep rich high gloss black and lasted about a month or so. I loved that stuff and used it on all my cars back when. I tried a similar product from a tractor retread outfit, but it didn’t work anywhere near as well as the old Tire Black.

After everything is cleaned, colored, and the rocks removed, I polish the wheel rims with Semi-Chrome polish. It seems to work very well at making the rims look like new again. After that I swab the tire with ArmorAll Extreme Tire Shine Gel. This tends to seal in the marker dye and extends the color for a year or more.

Here’s the result of the first finished wheel & tire:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/703sqE.jpg

And here’s the whole batch ready for reinstallation:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/YI0wM8.jpg

Once installed, I wipe the tires down one last time which removes some of the shine and makes them look more uniform in sheen.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

It's just therapy....turn on some music

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Love the attention to detail!!! :metal:

Great job and thanks for the tp on the sharpie and the Armor all...:mm:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Mark, do you ever rest???

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Not very often! I was "gifted" with a brain that never turns off, which makes it very difficult to sit and do nothing.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Nice job Mark, little jealous of the winter you didn't really have:waah:, we had another 2" of the evil white stuff last night, and it is warmed up to a balmy 11F today:waah::waah::waah:
They say that the ground hog didn't see his shadow and spring is coming early, but this seems like some kind of propeganda, I believe that the ground hog slept through his alarm and was not in a position to cast a shadow.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

You are the master in detail tricks.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Mark,
Have been following your build for a while for two reasons, just plan like everything you are doing , along with how much you share your knowledge. Second we are planning a 1964 C10 short bed, step side project for my wife and I. Your knowledge as a person who drives your regularly is very valuable to us in making the correct decisions for what we want in our new truck. Have been hanging around in the 73 to 87 group as I have built a 86' C10 for one of our grandsons.

Have a few questions on your experience with your truck as a driver. Is it ok to ask them here in your build? One example of questions, is type of engine, how do you like your 350 vs other options like the LS engines. The more origional looking engine, with some hot roding additions in more what looks appealing and is more important to us, then the great technology the LS offers.

Thanks,
Les

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Hi Les, asking in the build thread is great, or a pm is fine if you have some private topic to cover.

As for your engine/driving question – I’ve always been an old school kind of guy. That’s part of why my 350 is fixed up to look like a 327 (oil fill tube in front/no visible PCV setup). I’m also retired on a modest income and don’t really have the funding to invest in new technology. I’ll be the first to admit the LS engines are far better than the old non-roller engine like I have, and fuel injection is a nice improvement over the limitations of a carburetor, but I can fix everything on my engine in the field. I’ve never been stranded in over 20+ years of using it as a daily driver. It's been very dependable.

Since retirement, I installed a new GM Targetmaster 350 (or whatever they are called now). The only modifications were a Comp Cams HE268 camshaft & kit, and the Pete Jackson noisy gear drive from the old engine I had been running since 1992.

With a 4.10 rear axle, it isn’t all that user friendly anymore on gas mileage, but I almost never take it on the freeway. Back when I was driving 36 miles a day round trip to work, I ran a stock cam and 3.08 rear axle gears and got as much as 18+ mpg. I’ve also added Doug’s electric exhaust cutouts behind the rear tires and have them open in every parking lot we encounter, and every car show we attend. They are tons of fun and sound wicked with the cam.

Another prime convenience feature of the truck has been the Gaylord hard cover over the bed. It makes for the biggest trunk in the world, and allows us to carry just about anything anywhere. It was really handy back when I was working and traveled more, as we could carry all our food and sleeping supplies for long distance trips. The earliest upgrade after the V8 engine was power steering. It was so miserable with the stock steering, I had to leave it out in the street many times when I just couldn't navigate a parking lot.

Let me know if there are other questions I can answer. Regards, Mark.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Mark,
The old school approach for the engine, is my plan too. Not sure how close to a period 327, the engine will appear. Will be using a World Products block, that I have had for a while. If I can do the old school oil filler tube, that would be great. Do you have a You Tube video of your truck w/ the exhaust open? Would like to hear it. I just did my first one, for the 86' truck, posting the exhaust sound.

A couple of questions:

1). Can you make any suggestions on a standard transmission, thinking about a five or six speed. Maybe rated for 450 ft-lbs torque and 400 H.P. Fitting the cab tunnel layout for the shifter will also be an important factor. I do have a hydraulic clutch bell housing from a 1 ton 1965' 292 that can be used (photos of it are below). The rear 4:10 gears sounds good, along with OD in the transmission.

2). How much does you truck weight; Want too consider alternative parts that lighten the truck too.

3). Your build says that you are using a 73 to 87 front suspension, planning on using one also. Do you like it, any suggestions on drivability changes?

4). What rear end are you using, I like the 10 bolt from 73 to 87 trucks.

5). Any good frame modifications needed, like moving the gas tank.

Thanks in advance for your help, hope this is not to many questions. Planning is half the fun for me. Also like to take my time to fully understand what the results will be.

Les

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Hi Les, if you’re going to run a 4 barrel carb, Edelbrock offers a couple of intake manifolds with the oil fill provision in front:

7101 has provision for the oil tube. I had my machinist son bore out the hole on mine:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/Nk1uoy.jpg

2703 comes with the tube/breather and the manifold already bored out:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/susBaz.jpg

There are others that come with the tube depending on application.

Here are a few videos of the exhaust on my truck:

Open and closed. Bad video but the audio is good:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24M-tvTd3ro

This one has the pipes half open. When they are wide open the sound overpowers the cheap dash cam I’m using:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7z4cObwEIJc

This is the newest video, pipes idling from about 8:40 to the end:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0_g_kUzXhc

I’m running a Richmond Super T10 4 speed, but a 5 speed would be a better bet if it fits in the budget. If I had the money I’d be looking at a Tremec offering, probably the TKO good for 600 lbs ft with multiple shifter positions, or the T56 Magnum 6 speed up to 700 lbs of torque.

If you have a high hump floor, just about any transmission will fit. If you have a low hump floor, start looking now for a high hump. They show up locally on occasion, or on Ebay, or the parts for sale section of the forum. If you have the low hump floor, you’ll also need the piece of the firewall forward of the removable pan. If you have a one piece floor (no removable pan) you can still move to the high hump version by laying it on the floor for marking, and then cutting the hole undersize for a mounting flange.

The old bellhousing may or may not be the best way to go for a hydraulic clutch. It might be easier to go with a Novak setup which uses the standard driver side setup for the slave cylinder:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit_hcr3.htm

Many use a hydraulic throwout bearing, but personally I don’t trust them and wanted the hydraulics out of the bellhousing.

I don’t really remember what my truck weighs, it’s been a few years since it’s been on scales. It’s a bit lighter in front since removal of the inner fenders, but I carry a ton of stuff in the bed year round.

I’m running a stock 1975 front end with new springs, shocks, and the factory 1975 sway bar. It would probably handle and corner better with some modernized lowering components, but I don’t care for dropped trucks so I’m quite happy with it as is.

I’m running a Dana 44 rear axle, since they are very popular for parts swapping, and it came stock in my truck being a GMC. If I had my choice I’d go with some version of a 9” Ford, for the convenience of gear swaps by simply changing the pumpkin. Some version of 5 lug Chevy axle would be cheaper to install. I’m pretty sure the 73-87 rear axles are ¾” wider per side. Just something to be aware of as it may require special offset wheels to keep them under the fenders.

I’m running a rear mounted gas tank and it required no frame modifications. I think the only chassis adjustment you’ll need will be the rear transmission crossmember. It will probably need to move back to line up with whatever transmission you decide on.

I had a custom built 33 gallon tank fabbed up by Rock Valley Tanks. I couldn’t afford to buy one again, but it has worked perfectly for over a decade. There are many other solutions to the rear tank, and once the search feature is back on line you’ll have plenty to pick through. But other than adding support straps, almost none need anything major in the way of frame mods.

If I’ve left something out, let me know and I’ll go at it again. Regards, Mark.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

What did your fuel tank run you again? Do you still have all the schematics for it? I need to look into one for my LS swap

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Mark,
Thanks for all the information you provided, it is going to take me some time reviewing all the suggestions. The video links are great too, they provide a much more detailed view of your outstanding work. Definitely enhances my understanding of your trucks character! Nice, Nice, Nice.

This is going to greatly help me plan changes to our truck, adding lots fun to our truck.

Les

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

The gas tank cost $550.00 back in 1998. It was custom built to the following schematics:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/910/5gCaMo.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/538/ihrAaW.jpg

Because I was commuting 360 miles a week plus shopping trips into town (26 miles each way) I wanted as much capacity as possible. So I completely filled the area between the rails which added up to 33 gallons. I could have actually made it bigger as I left about 2” above the tank and below the bed.

This tank wouldn’t fit in a 63 and up frame as I understand they are narrower in the back, but it shows what can be done. The only modifications Rock Valley suggested were extra heavy end plates and mounting brackets due to the weight of the filled tank. These were agreed to and included.

I did make one mistake in my original design, and that was making such a small elbow to connect to the fill pipe. Originally, this connected to a custom fill pipe which hooked up to a 67-72 C10 flange inside the bed, on the driver side bed wall under the upper rear of the back fender. The concept was great, but that elbow was too sharp and caused gas to kick back and shut off the nozzle unless run at dead slow. This took a ridiculous amount of time to fill the tank. The inlet either needed to enter as a straight pipe on the side of the tank, or as a baloney slice along the top. Neither of the repairs were practical as the truck was my daily driver and modifying the inlet would have required taking the tank into town and having it done at a radiator shop.

So I modified the tank at home over a weekend by myself. I purchased an Earl’s aircraft wing filler cap & flange which came with a bolting flange in the shape of a big “C” that could be slipped inside the tank to secure the mounting flange. It is shown in the overhead drawing. At the time the only source I could find was in Australia!

I dropped the tank, filled it with water to eliminate fumes, and cut the hole for the new filler cap. Once it was mounted, I drained the water and dried out the tank over the weekend. By Monday it was back in the truck and ready to go. A lot of owners mount the filler in the center of the floor, but this makes it difficult to fill the tank if the bed is loaded. I decided the left rear corner was much easier to reach at the gas station.

Later on I had my son machine up an adapter to close off the area below the bed floor, and repurposed the chunk of aluminum bed floor as a lid to keep crud away from the actual filler cap. Here’s what it looks like with the cover in place and out of the way. I have subsequently replaced the knob with a strap that lays flat so a load can be positioned over the top without damage:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/q5nWd6.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/913/24jzf3.jpg

Several nice features of the brand new custom tank is there will never be any rust as it is totally made of stainless steel, is fully baffled inside, and doesn’t hang down like many of the suburban tank installations. And the addition of ports for fuel injection lines and a fuel pump are simply a matter of adding them to the drawing.

Here’s a good example of how much of the tank is visually exposed:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/IYnqfQ.jpg

I think that’s about it. Any other questions let me know. Regards, Mark.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

You're welcome. Some of the recommendations are spendy, and probably appropriate for a vehicle that is going to see full time service as a regular travel vehicle, for a great many years. The cost can be absorbed somewhat over the life of the truck. Compared to a new car payment, investment in the
"good stuff" can still be a bargain.

As set up now, my truck isn't very practical and probably isn't the best model for others to copy. An old design motor with a one piece crankshaft, carb instead of fuel injection, no overdrive, a rough cam, and a 4.10 rear axle. But I'm retired and it is primarily used as a fun car for rod runs and going on dates with my squeeze. It's completely practical for what we need, but if you have to drive it to work or want it for long road trips the newer technology is much more efficient in the long haul.

Regards, Mark.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Mark,
The fuel injection suggestion is one I want to investigate too. I also run a lot of carbs on my stuff over the decades, and would love to be able to write fuel mapping for the engine under different conditions. It is so much easier.
However, want a system that kind of looks like a carb on a period looking 327.
Les

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I dreamed up and completed another minor technical improvement tonight. A little over a year ago I added a double “U” piece of tubing to the front center port of my Edelbrock carb, for injecting ether (starting fluid) into the intake manifold under the throttle plates:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/XsJQXK.jpg

I know a lot of guys spray it directly into the paper air filter element, but I’ve also seen a simple backfire start a major fire when the filter blows up and sets the engine compartment ablaze. To avoid spraying the flammable gas all over the carb, I added a nozzle & tube from a spray can of some other product to make it easier to get all the starting fluid straight down the tube and into the engine:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/633/ZSU9QY.jpg

The problem being, every once in a while the tube blows out of the nozzle and lodges in the metal tube on the carb. It gets stuck at the first turn, so it can’t make it into the manifold, but it goes in far enough the top of the plastic tube is exactly even with the top of the metal tube. The only way to retrieve the plastic tube is with tweezers, or by completely removing the tube from the carburetor and blowing it out. Either method takes several minutes and is very annoying when I’m in a hurry to leave.

So it took two steps to eliminate the issue. First I glued the plastic tube to the spray nozzle with JB Weld clear epoxy. I kept rotating the nozzle until the epoxy went off, coating about an inch of the red plastic, and all the way around the back of the nozzle:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/fExqbO.jpg

I’ve had no issues since then, but just in case I have to change nozzles someday, I came up with the bright idea to simply shorten the metal tube. So tonight I sliced off an inch and 5/16, and formed another retention bulge on the end. If a nozzle ever blows off again, I can simply reach over and pick it up, as it sticks out the amount I shortened the pipe:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/913/8B8NzI.jpg

Rather than risking a vacuum leak with prolonged use of the vinyl cap, I replaced it months ago with a piece of fuel hose sealed with a tapered steel plug.

One of the things I’ve always been amazed with is my somewhat Mr. Spock abilities on straight lines, assessing level, and measurements. I guessed on how far to cut the steel line, and guessed again on how much to cut off the rubber hose. Nothing was measured or marked, and both came out almost exactly 1 5/16”!

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/cP5B40.jpg

The finished result looks almost exactly the same as before, but will sure be easier and less time consuming in the future if I have any problems with the spay nozzle/tube:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/Idy9Ev.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Insomnia..... Let's you read a lot of forums. :waah:

Looking at your Spock comment, it drove Nicola nuts when I built the Teardrop and much of the measurement and straight lunes came from my head.
I am fortunate to have a reasonable eye for it too.

Great little modification again, Mark.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Isn't it funny. I remember the first time I got in trouble for drawing a straight line. It was about 4th grade maybe, and the teacher asked for a student to volunteer to come up and draw a straight line on the chalk board about 4-5 feet long. So I walked up, drew one, and went back to my seat.

When she finished what she was doing, she turned around and accused me of cheating using the long rubber eraser as a straight edge. I told her I just drew it, but she didn't believe me (even with the other kids supporting my statement)! So she erased the line and said "okay, if you're so good come up and do it again". Which I did!

It seemed silly to me, as it was so natural and easy. I didn't care one way or the other, but I think her mind was blown and I'm not sure if she's over it yet! :lol:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Trying real hard to picture you in the 4th grade......

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

It's not that easy for me either, and I was there! :lol:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Good morning, Mark

How do you like your Gaylord cover? I'm thinking of adding one to my '64'
for the same reasons you stated. Do you have any pics of the mounting?
How does it fit along the bed rails? Is the underside carpeted or plain?

Dean

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I can just see this little guy with a beard and a bad back showing the autoshop teacher the right way to do things:lol:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Well there’s some truth in that thought. I had a bit of trouble growing facial hair in the 4th grade, but by the time I got to autoshop the teacher definitely didn’t like me. Most of the other guys thought I knew more about cars than he did, and when he tried to show me up it generally went badly for him! Not that I gloated or rubbed it in or anything!

Well I accomplished a couple of other minor improvements this evening. The last time I adjusted the headlights, I had the snow tires on. With the street tires back on, the low beams headlights were pointing down at the ground and didn’t reach out nearly far enough.

So I parked the Honda in the driveway and stuck masking tape on the garage door indicating the factory alignment on those bulbs. I then parked the truck in the same place, and about 3 turns of the upper screw corrected the headlight alignment. It’s so nice having the H4 low beams, the flat top of the beam projection makes them super easy to adjust.

And still having a surplus of energy, I pulled the steering wheel adapter and rotated it one tooth clockwise. Now it will be perfectly straight up and down instead of 10 degrees or so to the left when driving down the street. It’s the little things!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

It's the little things that matter...:mm:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

After completing a ton of stuff on the honey do list, I found a few more minutes for a couple of interior adjustments on the truck. The 2nd vacuum gauge was reinstalled for the brake reserve tank. It fit perfectly below the defroster knob and to the left of the A/C evaporator. I needed to fabricate an aluminum wedge adapter to angle it downhill so the sunlight coming through the back window didn’t shine directly into the driver’s eyes.

I also switched back to the chrome Hurst shift handle and classic white knob. Bolted to the upper two holes of my custom 3 hole shifter adapter, the knob is in the perfect comfort position.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/bk7mp3.jpg

I’m also going to be trying out a Grant 502 high gloss vinyl steering wheel later this week (when it arrives):

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/913/q1Hab3.jpg

I like the 3 hole styling as it looks more like a Covico wheel, and the rim appears a bit thicker. We’ll see.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Between stripping more kitchen cabinet doors, I managed to give the truck its first spring bath. I was amazed how filthy the back half was. I should be able to keep up with garage dust from now on anyway as I recently purchased one of the California Car Cover Duster brushes. I’ve wanted one for years but only recently discovered Amazon sells the brand name item for only 15 bucks.

The Grant 502 steering wheel showed up, and was pretty much as I expected. It was worth what I paid for it. It’s pretty much a throw away item after serving its purpose.

Here’s a photo of it installed:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/907/sWJnlm.jpg

Driving the truck with the smaller diameter wheel had a nice feel to it, making the steering tighter when cornering. But as predicted I couldn’t see the speedometer above 35 mph without scrunching down in the seat.

It was in place for one day when my son came over and looked at it. He promptly offered to buy me a Mooneyes blue metalflake wheel (for my upcoming birthday) to get it out of the truck.

From a quality standpoint, it was pretty pathetic. Compared to my 40 year old Covico wheel the overall finish is relatively poor. Held up against a new Mooneyes wheel, the quality is terrible.

The chrome on the front is beautiful, but the back side of the chrome spokes have deep grinding marks covering the surface and the edges of the spokes look like they were stamped with dull dies. The “gloss” vinyl rim isn’t. It’s a dull rubbery looking surface more like an old tool handle than a nice vinyl steering wheel. It’s somewhat comfortable, but feels sticky like something is on the surface but isn’t. It would be far more desirable if it had the gloss vinyl surface advertised instead of the look and feel of an old inner tube.

So I pulled it back out, and today the new blue wheel showed up. Here are a couple of shots with it in the truck.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/ijPYUf.jpg

On further reflection, I decided the blue shift knob looked way better than the white one, even if it isn't as comfortable:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/540/Bd18lO.jpg

It’s a funny realization, but the dish of the new blue wheel looks shallower/flatter than the identical black wheel. But I measured both and they are 3.5” deep as advertised. Just an optical illusion. I’ll be posting a tech article soon pertaining to all the little differences I’ve discovered over the years of living with three bolt steering wheels. Hopefully it will prove interesting.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Sorry Dean, somehow I missed your post until today. I'll shoot you a PM with the same response in case you don't check in here very often. I love the Gaylord hard cover. It fits well and after 10 years plus the gas rams still work fine. It shows no age on the surface, and polishes up nice. Mine was molded in black so it has no paint, just the gel coat. It is honeycomb in the center and solid around the edges. That’s where I have the bed rails mounted so they didn’t compromise the honeycomb section.

I have a simple hinge system with a tongue on both sides of the front bed wall. Angle brackets were added for additional strength. The back is latched with a simple key lock on both sides. Mine has plastic welting along the bottom edge, but this was deleted on later models. They also have a scissors type latch mechanism now, but I don’t know if that is extra cost or standard.

Here are a bunch of pictures taken a few minutes ago that may help answer some of your questions:

This is looking between the bed and passenger side of the cab. There are two forward latches. To remove or install the cover, simple unsnap one end of both gas rams and lift the cover to near vertical and disengage the brackets:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/alPtXk.jpg

Here’s a close up of the passenger side latch:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/uhjwWs.jpg

This is the rear passenger side lock. There are two on mine (one of each side):
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/910/75eYjg.jpg

This is the underside of the lock:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/909/DxcDnh.jpg

And this is the catch the lock slides under:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/905/GoTqVm.jpg

This view shows the front driver side latch and reinforcement bracket:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/GjlhEY.jpg

This shows the bottom of the cover and the alignment with the bed sides. No carpet on mine:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/LSGkaa.jpg

If I can help further please let me know. Regards, Mark.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Thanks, Mark
That's what I needed to see. PM sent.
Dean

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Between investing in research on the 1973-86 rear fender option mentioned in the main 60-66 forum: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=663382 and stripping kitchen cabinet doors, I’ve also been a bit distracted the last couple of days on a very important mission. The DVD “The Creeping Terror” was running in the garage while I was working on cabinet doors, when I looked up and noticed the monster eating the couple in the little roadster:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/MgqG8l.jpg

For years I assumed the car was a Borgward, but for the first time in the history of the universe (and needing a distraction) I decided it was essential to confirm its identity. So I looked up Borgward on Google Images and was surprised to find none had the wrap around windshield shown in the movie. Having grown up in the 50’s when “foreign” cars were at the height of their popularity, I started looking through every brand and model I could remember, seeking the true identity of the car.

I knew it had to be late 50’s or early 60’s because of the wrap around windshield and recessed steering wheel:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/BZSw5l.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/HDY3j5.jpg

I tried every brand and model I could remember, plus the oddballs that weren’t very popular like DKW, Lancia, NSU, Peugot, Saab, Simca, etc.

This went on for a couple of days until I tried Vauxhall, and came up with a few models with wrap around windshields. They still weren’t the right car but a photo of a Skoda was also included, a brand I had never heard of. When I got around to searching under Skoda, I hit the jackpot. The letters on the fender emblem even matched up (although the car pictured below is missing the emblem). It spells out Felicia. I could see the 1st and 3rd letters were tall, but couldn’t make out any of the individual figures. I had tried a variety of T’s, L’s, and C’s, but never came up with a word that made sense. Further confirmation proved the vehicle to be a Skoda Felicia:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/905/zIJ8hq.jpg

These were made in the Czech Republic from 1959-1964. Now the only question remaining is how it got to California at the height of the cold war!

What does this have to do with truck? Absolutely nothing. But now that I’ve resolved the mystery, I can shift focus back on the rear fender analysis! I have as many mixed feelings as others have opinions on how well the late fenders would look on my truck, but I still think it could be made to work and look great:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/901/0pU2Fk.jpg

I’m wondering if I could add the new fenders while retaining the stock 1960 steps, and I’m thinking the stock 73 wheel wells might make the tires look more centered than they do in the 1956 openings. Especially with 275/60/15 tires on 8.5” rims.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Mark,
Good luck with your deliberations on the 73 to 87 fender project. A very interesting subject! Wish you were closer, have an extra step side bed you could set on yours. And, then try out different designs, maybe by using contrasting colored tape to illustrate your concepts on the newer bed.

I am no artist and need to see things in real life to know how they look to me, often with lots studying time. Would a 73 to 87 Stepside truck sitting next to yours, help in making your decision?

Les

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I’m the same way Les. The 73-87 rear fenders are something I wanted since before I ever bought the truck. It was a relatively popular swap back in the late 70’s. So I’ve been considering, studying, and pondering this for a long time.

The primary affection for the 73 fenders is their increased width (equal to the cab – allowing for wider wheels and tires) and the upper corners that I find flattering to the cab styling.

On the minus side I don’t care for the late model steps as they are visually too short vertically, and don’t extend to the bottom of the cab even on the trucks they came on. My observation is they don’t even reach to the bottom front of the rear fenders, and those are a couple inches above the bottom of the cab. On the photochop above, I didn’t blend these items digitally, I printed a picture of the truck and a picture of the late model bed, adjusting the sizes until the length of the beds were identical. I then physically cut the bed side off the new truck, stuck it on the photo of my truck, and scanned the results.

It can be seen that the original 1960 step resides somewhat below the new step and below the front of the fender. (I need to do a better photochop effort). Rather than swapping beds my preferred approach would be to obtain at least one 73+ fender for use as a test mule, remove one of mine and stick the new one in place to evaluate what would be needed to bolt everything together. In my mind’s eye, this would bolt together with no more effort than replacing the original fender (after drilling and patching a few holes in the bed side). The lower inner corner of the fender would require a filler panel where the newer step would have gone, but that wouldn’t prove much trouble.

The late model fender in the photo above has stainless trim around the wheel well, where there is none on the front fender. If this trim was removed I don’t believe the disparate shape of the wheel wells would be so attention grabbing, especially at the ride height of my truck. My own observation is the 1955 rear wheel well openings don’t match the fronts any better than the square versions on the later bed, and on my particular truck the rear axle is located behind the centerline of the fender opening.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/911/6uKCNt.jpg

I’m thinking the stock 73 wheel wells might make the tires look more centered than they do now.

The real answer is if I’m going to seriously consider this change I need to go to a local wrecking yard or Craigslist, and pick up a fender (either one). Then I could pull one of my existing fenders, locate the new one in position and see what can be done.

I think I’ll create a better photo effort first and see how close the step/fender will actually fit and go from there.

One last thought, in an earlier exchange I mentioned I thought the earlier fenders had fewer holes in them. I now believe that was incorrect information. It seems some of the 79-87 rear fenders have no side marker or gas filler holes at all, so those would be more desirable for my purposes.

Thanks to everyone for stopping by and offering comments.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Wow, I don't envy the decision making process on this one…;)
But, I will be watching, and the research on the Skoda… Too Cool!:mm:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

You'd be better off getting a whole bed. They can be had sometimes for around $400.00

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I'll throw my 2 centavos in here.
I like the 73-87 fenders on the 60-66 trucks, I think the lines, overall, work well, but can't get past the non-matching wheel opening lip.
Also, IMHO.... if a retrofit of the later fenders is going to be done, the wheel openings should be made to match.
I bought a 73-87 stepside bed for $250... they are anything but rare... literally 10's thousands of those beds were made.
I'd think they would be easy to find.


:5150:

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

We’ve been going through old videos, films, and photos eliminating surplus that just isn’t interesting any longer, and discovered this picture of the first gloss black lacquer paint job I put on the truck back in 1998. I’m not sure it’s been seen before. We just got the new hood on and were out for an evening cruise in Spirit Lake where my wife served as an EMT at the time:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/673/NQ0GtQ.jpg

It sure did inspire a lot of looks and comments when it was fresh.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I’m going through a midlife crisis, really enjoying how my truck sounds with the exhaust cutouts open, which leads to disappointment when they have to be closed as we resume driving on “public highways”. It isn’t the noise that’s illegal where I live, it’s running with a bypass around the muffler. That’s a no no.

I’ve been running Flowtech chambered mufflers for decades. They sound a lot like Flowmasters, but were a lot cheaper at one time and last indefinitely. They rumble like an early Corvette at idle, but get quieter at speed. For years I’ve thought that was cool, now I find it too tame and boring.

So I’ve decided to ditch my existing mufflers and go with something louder to better fit the personality of the truck. I don’t care how obnoxious it is in the cab as we don’t travel long distances in it. Even my wife wants the change as she hates closing the cutouts as well!

After a bunch of research and input from some experienced friends, I decided on a pair of Flowtech Purple Hornies:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/633/2JYJpJ.jpg

I’m glad they are a Flowtech product, as I’ve had such fantastic results with their other mufflers. I ordered them through Amazon instead of Summit, saving the cost of shipping. I was thinking about installing them myself, but for about the cost of clamps, hangers, and turn downs I can afford to have the muffler shop do the installation, and spare myself the backache of crawling around on the garage floor.

I’ll post a video once they are in place.