Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Awesome work!!!
You've got a lot to be proud of!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That set-up clears everything ok? Hard to tell from my monitor.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It’s still a bit of a nightmare back there, and I have yet to run the main engine harness, plug wires, or throttle cable...

Good point on the clean side, I may reassess
Thanks a lot, I’ll just be happy to get it running
Yes, it tucks inside the valvecover completely, which is all well above the rockers on the LS. This would not work on an SBC at all

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

What I’ve been up to the last few days:

Tore down the original 3-on-the-tree steering column to gut all of the unused everything and take 8.25” of length out of it. This will help put the upper steering joint closer to the firewall, hopefully keeping my angles the way I want them and also clearing everything with the steering shaft.

Ended up deciding to cut my own DD into the end of the shaft as opposed to taking it to a machine shop. Measure twice, cut once, used an angle grinder and finished it off with a set of calipers and a file. Not too bad to do, just a little time consuming. Actually was a little therapeutic (and a little stressful). I will say if you attempt this, do not use the ididit instructions, as their measurements are way off (or I was just to dumb to figure them out)...

Also used a slick little piece from CPP, the “column saver”, which slips into the end of the column and has a bushing and thrust bearings for the shaft to ride on. Made figuring out how to terminate the hacked-off column a no-brainer.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I can relate to your "therapeutic" comment on that kind of work. It's nice to step outside of your day to day thoughts and saturate yourself into something that 99% of people will never even think twice about. My problem is I tend to do this on almost every task I undertake when it comes to my truck project. I admire some of these guys who just knock it out and move onto the next step. Great work as always Chris,

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

looks very nice,

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’m the same way, I like to take my time and think it through, but I’m running outta time here. Appreciate the positive comments.
Thanks a lot!

Very happy with how the column turned out, once I figured out how to put it back together properly. Nice, tight, and smooth operation with no binding or weird noises. New turn signal switch, bearings, and grease and loctite in all the right places. It’s not an ididit, but at least I can say I did it :lol:

If anyone is wondering, the lower mounting bracket that normally is on the outside of the firewall is now on the inside, I simply cut, flipped, and welded it back together at the proper angle and it attaches to the same mounting holes, but from the other side.

Super happy with the way the comfort grip setup looks and the upper u-joint is tucked in about as far as I think it can go, now we’ll see if the steering shaft fits without rubbing anywhere :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like the way your brain works! I've thought about modding a steering column like that before, but never got serious about it since I'm still running the stock gear box. Maybe I should upgrade to the No Limit R&P so I have an excuse to do this. :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It’s such a minor thing, that no one will ever really notice, but I’m proud of the way it turned out. I just wish it was a tilt :waah: That NL rack would have sure saved me a TON of time on this project :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Curious, still have the hole where the shift lever was? Looks good man, I will probably do same now with bracket thanks for the idea.

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The little things that nobody notices is the stuff that I love, especially if they can keep it looking stock while upgrading the functionality.

The NL rack seems like it would have saved a ton of time until you realize that you would have been re-engineering everything else to get it to work well together like the PB stuff does.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The hole was shaven by a PO using JB Weld or something similar, not the best, but it works well enough until I decide I want to paint it again. For now, that part of the collar is rotated down where it’s not readily visible
Agreed, instead I’m re-engineering the whole truck to fit the PB parts :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

And improving things is a problem somehow? ;)

I actually have been considering this shortening mod w/an old automatic van tilt I have had for y e a r s..... I figured it would be worth a shot so I could get a better angle to the PB placed R&P under-hood by getting it closer to the firewall while also getting it closer to the dash @ the same time on the inside.

Appreciate sharing the parts/pieces related info for sure.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No problem, glad to help. Highly recommend the CPP piece, if it will work for what you’re doing. Money well spent not having to engineer a bottom bracket and bearing setup.

Your motives echo mine, while trying to keep the steering shaft to two joints only... we’ll see if that works out. I had already moved the column closer to the dash, which just made the under hood angles that much worse. I think trying to keep the shifter mechanism would add a level of complexity, but these things are pretty simple once you’ve taken them apart and put them back together five or six times...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

This is my biggest concern going into it. But, I've had this van column in my parts stash for 20+ years. I figure I can give it a shot before spending the big $$ for a short aftermarket set-up. Haven't 100% committed to a decision yet.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm sure you already know this but just in case we have a member #70shortfleet that rebuilds these columns. His price was half the cost of an IDIDIT or FlamingRiver column and its OEM. I had to pick and choose my battles for time sake otherwise I would have rebuilt mine but since mine was 3 on the tree like gringo's here I figured this was my best option to gain tilt ;) He does a great job, top notch professional. And his shipping methods include some of the best "Made in USA" packing I have ever seen lol. I'm 6'5 so he shortened my column for me, added the cruise control lever, tilt column, added the automatic shift indicator, and painted it gloss black for me. It includes the rubber grommets but you use your original brackets and hardware and of course brake signal switch if needed.

Few pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CqZ5PzurLU2oUxHVA

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Been chipping away at installation of some parts: headers are in with new gaskets and hardware, steering shaft is in and clearing everything, fuel and brake hard lines are plumbed, and I spent some time building custom plug wires. I feel like it’s starting to come together and if I don’t manage to break anything important, this thing might just start soon :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and since most of the things I needed to access under hood are complete, I hung the core support, fenders, and hood.

The All-American Billet hinges pretty much fell into place and work like a dream. They don’t open as wide as the stockers, but plenty to stick my head in and work on stuff. Also, plenty of clearance for the Hill’s inner fenders, as indicated by the closed pic with the template marked in sharpie. Overall, pretty satisfied...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I've been waiting to see those hinges go on. I'm glad they are going to clear the Hill's fenders. Can't wait to see this thing on the road around here! When do you need to have it loadable for the move?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

23 May we hit the road, so I have but a few precious weeks. This is starting to feel like your thrash for Power Tour :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Which is starting again. :rolleyes: I have much less to do this year though and there isn't anything that is being done that will stop it from making the trip this time.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice work! Are you going to run wire looms to keep the wires off the exhaust manifolds? 3 weeks to get it running so you can drive it onto the trailer!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! They are loomed, sort of, I used the stock style plastic clips. The wires do not come near touching anywhere right now and the headers are ceramic coated, so fingers crossed they will be ok. I do like the idea of the rail type separators and if this doesn’t work out, I’ll probably go that route.

Yup, 3 weeks to go, and this isn’t the only iron in the fire :devil:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Fingers are crossed for success..... Best of luck!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Glad to see a positive review on installation of the hood hinges, I have a full size set arriving tomorrow.

What ceramic coating is on the headers? Titanium Cerakote?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You're on the home stretch man! Everything is looking so clean. :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti!
You will not be disappointed with the hinges, super nice stuff. Worth the money, I dunno, but they are the only game in town for what I wanted to accomplish.

Good eye, it is titanium cerakote.
Thanks for the kudos, shame I’ll have to tear this all apart again, but glad to see her coming together.

Speaking of which, I sure have missed this face:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

In other news, I will need to do some body mount “adjustments” to get the body lines and trim looking like I want them to.

The “get more low” side of me says cut the bed mounts down, the “get more driveshaft clearance” side says shim the cab. I was already planning on pulling the bed one last time, so that’s probably gonna be the answer. Just means more cab floor surgery :smoke:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ugh... That's the thing I'm fearing the most. My bed is higher than my cab too, so I bought all new body bushings for when I tear it apart again for paint.

With the front sheet metal mounted, it looks like you're almost done! Looks fantastic Chris! :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Duane, that was a big visual hurdle, but there’s plenty left to do!

This alignment issue is with a brand new set of poly bushings; the fit was much better with the rubber pieces. I’m all but set on “body dropping” the bed mounts, since the cab and front clip are already aligned (and, ya know, never low enough :D).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I don't know about everyone else but I'm glad your moving ;) = MOTIVATION. :metal:

Great updates on the truck man. I really dig your trim being 'patina' like it is, just adds that little bit of character it needs yet the paint is good. I like it.

That engine is sweet, your choices in mods for the engine are really unique and are coming together nicely. I can only hope my stage 2 of build will be even close to what your doing. Keep it up gringo.

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, it looked like a complete truck for 1 day... progress?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks a lot for the compliments and motivation. I wish this were happening under a less stressful timeline, but I’m happy to be getting her going.

As for the paint, it’s mildly distressed, done back before patina was cool. The trim was assembled from random parts purchased here on the board.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’ve been looking at drop-in fuel pump assemblies for a while: The Boyd Welding setup that bolts in directly is $350, the Tanks Inc version is $220 and would still need to be modified to fit, and there are many other swanky billet high-flow options I’ve explored that either don’t meet my needs or are very expensive.

Instead of spending a bunch of money on things I don’t need, I decided to grab a genuine Walbro 340 and build my own assembly. So far, I’ve got about $120 in the whole business and have a custom fit for my needs pump and fuel pickup :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Good job! I may need to look at that as an option to fix my too many fitting problem of the stock pump. That way I can eliminate the unused vapor line and pump mounted vent.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, man. This was almost too easy, just a little head-scratching and a few hours time turned out a very professional looking product. Today’s pics look a lot like yesterday’s, but now the finished product with wiring, check valve, and final assembly fasteners. It’s installed and looks good, let’s hope it works just as well...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That looks great gringo, looks very similar to the Tanks Inc I installed. Very professional indeed :clap:

And yeah...... I had to modify the heck out of it like you mentioned. I have a deep tank so I had to extend the arm to 13" and therefore the return tube ended up being too short for my liking so I extended it as well so when fuel level is low it's not splashing and foaming fuel right next to the pickup...

I used galvanized steel with stainless fasteners to build my extension. What materials did you use? And did you make a mounting ring to sandwich your top plate to tank?


My Tanks Inc install

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=105


.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Very nice work on your install, I hadn't seen that before.

Details: I used a piece of 1/8” thick x 3/4” wide aluminum strap for the hanger, which is bolted to the top plate with stainless fasteners (and 3/8” aluminum spacers to make room for the bulkhead fitting nut). The hanger strap was bent at 90° on top for the bolts to pass through, then a small bend at the bottom to prevent the pump from sliding down. I also created small slots for the pump retention straps to ride in, again to prevent sliding down. The straps are stainless “zip ties”, similar to header wrap retainers.

The short 6” piece of submersible hose was cut in half, where I spliced in the one way check valve, since Walbro pumps are known for not retaining pressure. The hose is held in place with stainless oetiker single-ear clamps.

Electrical connections are simply #10-24 stainless fasteners, insulated using the method described here by dayj1:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=10

...and held in place with stainless nylock nuts on the outside of the plate.

The sandwich ring was already in place from Boyd’s, who setup all of their tanks to accept their drop-in pump assemblies. The supply elbow bulkhead fitting is one that transitions from -6an to a 5/16” barb to connect to the pump feed. It is sealed where it passes through the plate with an Earls stat-o-seal (o-ringed crush washer). The only non-stainless or aluminum I used in the whole deal were the zinc plated stover nuts on the hanger bolts, since I don’t trust that nylock nuts are actually made of nylon and won’t be affected by fuel. Everything that passes through the plate is threaded and sealed with anaerobic sealer, so hoping not to have any leaks :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Very nice work here sir. I like the use of some of the materials you used like the stainless steel zip ties. Of course the zip ties in the Tanks kit will be fine they are a nylon or some kind of fuel rated plastic. They are really nice and thick so don't get me wrong they are better quality then most manufactures would send(in case others are thinking of this kit), but the SS ties are a nice touch.

You know I had to go buy a longer piece of submersible hose myself because the one in the kit was just long enough for the 10" of arm that comes with it and I needed an extra 3". Boy is that stuff expensive! I looked at getting a 3' piece and its was like $40-$50 or something!! :jdp:

The anaerobic sealer is another nice touch. The Tanks kit comes with all the SS screws with little rubber o-rings on them but this worries me some years down the road are they going to dry out and crack and etc... I did put a little antisieze on the bolts though. And if I ever have to replace the pump inside, those o-rings will have to be replaced...

I welded my ring to my blazer/suburban tank with small tack welds. Which this of course meant I had to remove the nice coating on the tank, which then meant steel exposure, which then meant I had to use a sealer to keep the rust at bay. And now that I am typing this I just realized the piece of galvanized steel I cut to length to extend the tanks arm, well I didn't put any sealer on the edge I cut, so I hope that doesn't rust on me cuz I'm pretty sure the ACE hardware galvanized steel sheets are just a coating.... I dunno... :rolleyes:

Anyway, great job and thanks for the information here. On my next truck/car I plan to have a lot more time for custom fabrication and will use this as inspiration/ideas.


:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and that’s the last of the fuel connections :cool: