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Re: First Steps LS Swap......
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I was already running an aluminum radiator, this is what I came up with for the steam port. I called engineered cooling products to see if there would be any problems with removing the heater hose connection and welding in an aluminum bung with NPT threads. They talked with their engineer, called me back and said it would cause no problems at all.
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Re: First Steps LS Swap......
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I ordered this weld in bung from Jegs, and I have it fit and ready for the weld shop this week. It was a bit nerve racking enlarging the hole while trying to stay off the transmission cooler directly behind it. Once it gets back I have a 1/8 NPT thread to a 5/16 hose barb that will go in. Greg
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I have a question, if I needed a manifold vacuum port, can I break this tab off and put it on this port? Is it that simple?
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Radiator is back from the weld shop!
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Yes just break tab and u have vacumm
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Quote:
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Worked on the front half of the fuel line today. I am using the fuel line from the donor truck, only a few tweaks and it went right in.
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I had to make this one bend here
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and had to tweak it a little to get it off the pinch weld where the toe board meets the fire wall.
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I was able to use the mounting hardware from the donor truck. The bolt for the large bracket matched up to an existing frame hole, but I had to drill one for the alignment tab. The small straps went right in place of the clips for the tail light harness.
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The fuel line bracket at the transmission had to be cut down. The way it was originally mounted, the fuel line was more towards the top of the transmission.
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I had the fuel tank LineX coated, it's ready to be picked up in the morning. I'll start on plumbing the back half next. Greg
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nice job on the install of lines...Jim
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Tank is back from being coated
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Starting on the rear section of the line. I think there was more adjustments in the last foot and a half than in the entire rest of the line.
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I had to straighten the 90 degree bend in this line. I know a few of you probably won't like this, but it's either that or cut the line and use a compression fitting and a repair section from the local parts store.
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Once the line was fairly straight, there was a factory bend farther up the line that needed to be turned back into the frame. After that I used part of the original 90 (I didn't straighten it completely) to make the offset going into the filter/ regulator. Greg
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Re: First Steps LS Swap......
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I scored these fuel lines from the wrecking yard off a 2000/ 2001 truck 5.3 with a return style fuel system. One is 5/16, the other 3/8. The ends will work with the WIX 33737 filter/ regulator and provide locks to make sure the hoses stay on (little extra protection never hurts). I plan on making my own lines from the fuel tank and having the local tube and hose place crimp these factory ends on. My goal was to avoid using AN fittings by using the factory fuel lines from the donor truck, and hopefully with as few splices as possible. Greg
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I figured out a way to use the shift cable from the donor truck!
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There is a pivot joint built into the cable that allows some side to side travel, plus you can just about bend the thing in half and it will still move thru the full travel.
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I measured the ball where the cable originally attached, and ordered this throttle linkage ball stud from Jegs : http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...15226/10002/-1
Then drilled and tapped the head of this bolt, added a lock washer…….. |
Re: First Steps LS Swap......
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Bracket is about 3" wide
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Set up and positioning to weld the two pieces together. Basically, I moved it around until everything lined up and nothing rubbed. All of the gear positions line up except for park, it's a little farther to the left of the "P". Which is a lot better than I had, none of mine lined up dead on before with the stock linkage/ 700r4 I was running.
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Had to tweak the arm a bit on the column too
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Installed, I'm going to mate the shift cable up to the E-brake cable so it follows that down. This clears up a bunch of real estate for the exhaust.
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