Re: Daverods 52
To bad.:waah: That would suck.:lol: I'll be 90 here tomorrow.
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Great elk rack, I like.....
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Nice. I got mine with a bow about two years ago. Out of a tree stand next to a river crossing. Ran about 100 yrds and dropped like a rock. More gore.:lol::lol:
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This guy was hanging around last year got my heart pumping a few times.:lol: I swear it was twice as big at 5 in the morning.
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Just because it a truck forum.:lol: But it's my thread feel free to post up some gore.:metal: Got a little done on my 52.
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The 89 frame should be a good one for your 52. Clay |
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Boy, what a dummie. I just went to the S10 site and you already know where the frame number is. Sorry for not being more alert. Should have checked before I tried to help. Clay
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Thanks anyway bud.;)
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Dave you should go with a diffrent upper control arm. You will either have to pie cut them or get after market arms, because you will have a bunch of camber when droped.
I got MMW Michigan Metal Works arms for mine. They were $100 for the pair and came with bushings, use your stock cross shaft, and ball joints. |
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I wonder if camber really matters when it sitting on the ground.;)
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Took my 350 to the machine shop to get it machined/heads done. Got some lowered spindles/headers/engine mounts coming. Tore all my wiring out of my cab. Found a zr2 rear end with posi for 300 need to go get it. Sold my old 52 frame on craigs for 150.
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I guess you'll just have to see if anything gets in the way when layed out. I was reading yesterday about the s10 rears, The ZR2 is weaker then the drum rears. so stay out of the throttle.
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You needed drop spindles? You dont really need the upper arms, these frames do not really camber that much. I know mine is maxing out the upper ball joint though so I either need to get different arms or longer travel ball joints. I like the MMW arms, looks like I would get a lot more clearance for the inner fenders if I ran them.
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That said, if you're running normal street tires and messing around like a normal driver, i wouldnt worry about it. If you're going to take it down the dragstrip on a regular basis, or if you're planning on putting drag radials or slicks on it... then Id start to worry about it. otherwise... its fine. you'll burn up your street tires in a cloud of smoke before it breaks. |
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Great thats all I want a big cloud of smoke. Hell, my frame will be on the ground anyway. It's not as if I'll be going anywhere.:lol:
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Your right Dude. A parallel 4 link would help minimise the pinion angle. But Dave doesn't care. He likes to burn up money anyway. :haha:
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Just get a double u joint for 12* of change. Then let it rock and roll.
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Got my rear air kit for 125 off. :metal:
Saving $$ not :devil: it. Strodder:lol::lol: What you doing for bags/cups in the front Paul. |
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I bought some off a guy local. He said they are SD cups. And I got a set of DOM II's 2500 i'm gonna use. Most people say you dont get the lift that you big lift, but I'll just have to see.
They have them on sell right now for $185. cups, 2500 DOMII, line and some fittings. I was talking to Jason (SD) the other day, and he said that he doesn't like the bags on the outside of the frame like that. He said that they will twist, so just watch it. I'm still not sure how I'm gonna run mine. I may go bag behind the axle! |
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20 minutes digging in the dirt at the junk yard and look what I found.:metal:
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Here is your kit installed on a truck so you know how it looks.
This is what I use for my background so I know what it looks like! |
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My first powder coat job. Should have maybe put it on a little thicker. Next time.;)
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I think the twist he is talking about is on the link bushings because the bag mounts are not centered over the bar. With them hangin on the side of the link bar it puts a twist on the bushings and may wear out faster.
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:new::hm: Is the twist coming from the truck going up and down or from the engine? I really don't see it. It's bolted to the axle on one end. ??? Most your shocks are mounted that way.
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Sold my old frame for 150. Parts for parts. Still have the old transmission.:smoke: Don't think I'll get rid of it very easy.
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Makes me feel better. I was'nt looking for the best anyway. More like fast,easy and cheap.:lol::lol: I know.:lol:
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Wire whipped my frame painted it . Sand blasted my lower arms pressed some new ball joints in and painted them. Ordered some bags for the front and some cups. Rented the press for Auto zone pressed them myself. Did'nt know they rented the press.
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The twist that I'm talking about is going to be at the bushings. Because the bags are offset on the bar. You know the bars will mount under the frame with the bags on the outside. So that will give you a little bit of twist.
No I dont need a trans. Just so you know you will have to cut the spring pockets in the front for the bags to sit in and not rub. Once you get your cups and bags check it out. |
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The cups weld in? I was kinda wondering how that worked. Does this mean I'll have to repaint?:lol:Guess I better get some metal.:metal:
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You can buy weld in cups. or you can get bolt in like I have. Most people use the bolt in, no holes to drill, they go in the factory holes for the shocks.
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