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I'm actually thinking about what to do with my '50 since it's going to have an under bed tank and I'm not a huge fan of the through-floor fill necks |
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It’s an attack of the Green Slim!! I wanted to treat the lower large patch panel cavity upside down so the slim could seep into the pinch weld. We always spray the can dry when using this stuff so the remainder of the can went in between the roof panels and pillars. It will get a second coat but needed to do this prior to the welding of the panel.
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Re: 72 K30 Build
Is that the Eastwood Internal Frame coating?
I was thinking about what to spray inside right above the mirror by removing the visors and spraying in from there. . Eastwood also sells this stuff: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-rust-enca...html?reltype=3 I almost pulled the triger on this today for the same purpose, . http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-hea...-in-black.html Not sure what is better and why, any thoughts about one VS the other? . . . . |
Re: 72 K30 Build
Yes it is and here is a link http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...arent_id=25961
We needed this kind of product for my 1/2 ton project and decided to use it again for this one. Some of my reasons for using this product are I've used it before, the color you can tell where it is and where it ain't. This stuff does go on sale and if you buy enough you can get free shipping as well at times so the price was right for us (got 5 cans for under $75 delivered) . It has been around and I think has more favorable reviews? Other than that I have no opinion except for as much time and effort that goes into fixing one of these cabs I think you would be foolish not to use something. :crazy: |
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Brett, you're making some great progress! Why don't you stop working on yours and come down and work on mine! :lol:
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We went from nipples to scar tissue! :lol:
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you using an arch welder?? :)
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I was wondering if it was a battery charger and some coat hangers. :D :lol:
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I'll give you one guess who got to grind all that off! :waah: |
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More panel prep the lower is now ready to go. We needed to fill some holes in the upper outer patch.
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You guys are definantly kicking butt on the thing!
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I'm guessing it was just a bad weld day and debated on posting it (Good, Bad & Ugly you know). So after we checked to see if their was any wire left in the machine we moved on as you will soon see. Quote:
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Ive seen guys put 3 or 4 car batteries in series and weld broken frames on the trail in a pinch.
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Ok, i hope you didn't take my post badly as i didn't mean to come off in a bad manner, i know when it comes to body i can't weld for crap. i probably wouldn't have posted that at all but your comments about nipples and scar tissue earlyer made me feel you wouldn't get upset about it. :)
EDIT, Overhead welding isn't easy, i suck at it. |
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You know he did have to listen to me whine when I saw it and we had a little talk about trying to keep weld puddle down. :thud: |
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A shot of weld thru and we’re ready to screw them into place for the final time.
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Goodbye pass thru, upper is ready to weld.
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I just hope I can get my grips back from there. If not then I’ll cut’em off and fish the pieces out.
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Looking good Brett! I'm hoping to get something going this weekend...
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Great work! I'll be watching this build.
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Inspiring work, makes me think i may be able to do it myself if i ever get to that point with my current progress..
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1st round weld, weld, weld.
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Knocking it out!
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And weld some more. We did manage to get the grips backs without cutting them. A telescoping magnet was the ticket!
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Now that we are getting down to starting the frame shortening process I’m having second thoughts about all the frame splices and frame repair on my trailer towing 4x4/work type truck. I now know its doable with the K3500 frame and would probably be fine but I’m debating if we should or if just using a C30 frame is the better option? The K3500 splice job is going to have to be a farm out for us (started the quote process) as we just don’t want to be plagued with frame problems after the K30 is built.
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No comments on the frame statement above? Just thinking out loud and starting to finalize plans for the next phase.
So back to the cab after 2 rounds of weld, grind, weld & grind this is how the inner upper patch is looking (tumor removed). ;) |
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That said, when you start getting into multiple cuts and splices, you increase the probability of something going amiss. With the C30 frame, a lot of the hangars and so forth line up with factory holes, which allows you to keep things aligned pretty well. Either way, what's best is what you're comfortable with. On my last project (as you know) I did the original frame with modified hangars and such. On my current one, I'm building a hybrid frame from a different generation truck and a metric G-body. So I'm not really biased :lol: |
Re: 72 K30 Build
I agree with what Jjorgensen52 said. On my 76 I did a step cut to help make it stronger. I used to work in a heavy truck frame shop and we used to straight cut them up to a certain length. All the ones we did got sleeved with minimum of 1/4" cold rolled. On super long rigs, we angle cut them. None of them ever got fish plates either. They never had any come back and they had been doing truck stretching/shortening and frame altering since 1979. We had a dump truck come in that they built in the mid 90's that had been rolled. The frame was straight where they stretched it and didn't start to be roled and twisted until after the sleeve ended. We saw all kinds of mangled trucks, and fixed 98% of them.
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We are going to try and acquire another C30 133" frame (new plan A?) and if that doesn't fly then we'll go with standby plan B (use my blue C30) for the frame. This new direction does simplify some things and complicate others but its all good cuz there is a plan right??? |
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More cab progress, the large back patch is looking fairly flat! Saweet!
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It's coming along nicely!
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Nice!
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Looks like it should hold the window gasket just fine.
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This is how the entire back panel looks.
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