Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
They will acquire the wheels for you, but you'll have to wait for them to collect them. Our original white rims were long gone. I actually got impatient and gave them the greenlight to grab some on ebay.
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Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
So here's a scary story. On Wednesday, I brought the Blazer home to do the wheel swap the next day. After parking it in the garage I went inside a bit before coming back out to discover a gas line with a pin hole jetting my hot exhaust with fuel. Could have been a disaster film. I pulled it out and hosed the exhaust. The problem was a very old rubber line between the hardlines and the inline fuel pump they added with the Ramjet a decade ago. About 6" of line. I replaced the line with a 200# fuel line and then wrapped that line with a bigger split rubber line that would direct any leaks down instead of at anything hot.
Oh and it was hailing on me when I was hosing the exhaust off with water. Hail hurts. The Original Air Kit and the ARB Kit arrived today. I'm heading to Italy for a week, but after that, we'll get back to adding. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Oh man, that was close. I like to use Gates Green Stripe for my fuel injection hose.
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Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Alright. Making a little progress.
Installed a pure sine wave inverter. It get's covered up nice with my carpet cover. The old one produced a square wave that just didn't work with anything useful. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1600x9001.jpg Installed the Sanden compressor and parellel flow condensor. Big, big improvement. It's icy cold. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1600x9002.jpg Replaced the factory chrome trim around the instrument bezel. This bigger stuff looks better than the original stuff. Super easy to apply. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1600x9001.jpg |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Please tell me more about your chrome trim solution - it looks fantastic, and I'd like to do it to mine as well.
Where or who did you get the trim from? What adhesive did you use to attach the new trim? Quote:
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I have an '84 that was upgraded to the Sanden compressor and R134a, but they used the stock condenser. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Glad to hear the AC is working nicely for you!!
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Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
We used a UAC CN20008 Unit. The condenser is the limiting factor. Factory unit is not efficient enough.
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Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Spent the evening replacing the fluids in the transfer case (Valvoline Non-Detergent Gasoline Engine Oil: 30 SAE Grade + Lucas oil stabilizer[30%]) and the differentials (Redline 75W90 NS [No Friction Modifiers{running a TrueTrac back there}] + Lucas oil stabilizer[40%]). I still can't do it without making a mess.
Installed the Stage 8 Fasteners so I don't have to re-tighten these collector flanges anymore: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1024x1820.jpg Here's something cool. Ordered up some high density polyethylene (HDPE) in orange. I used a little jigsaw to cut this piece out. Then I used slightly longer screws and button washers to fasten using the factory panel holes (panel still in place). Now I have a good, low-friction work surface with no more scratches to the tailgate. It's kitchen safe and UV stable. Anybody want me to filet their catfish real quick? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...R-1600x900.jpg You can see the little tire hump box I'm about to mount for storage and also to provide a clean mounting spot for the ARB auxilary power port. This was in there before I began working on it two years ago. It was installed 20 years ago the last time Dad spent money upgrading the Blazer. I pulled it out and kept it in case I found a reason to use it. I'm gonna use it to store jumper cables and a few essentials that don't make sense in the center console. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...R-1600x900.jpg |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Next piece. I installed the wheel hump storage box and installed the ARB auxiliary port for my fridge freezer. Surprisingly frustrating endeavor.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...3-1600x900.jpg http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...5-1600x900.jpg http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...8-1600x900.jpg I used some more of those nice stainless button washers and stainless sheet metal screws to dress it up. Holes were still there from the original installation. I smothered some RTV around the holes for a good seal. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Remember the creeping mirror problem I was having. Here's the next solution I'm gonna attempt:
http://www.allelectronics.com/item/s...%3A1%3BN%3B%7D This stuff is grippy. The completed rear compartment. Plastic looks kinda red in this shot. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...3-1600x900.jpg |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Wow super clean and a Beaut...
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Looks great, nice job!
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Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Test fit the ARB Fridge Freezer in the back. Perfect fit. About an inch of clearance between the tailgate and cooler.
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Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Off with the old 39 year old trailer hitch:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...0-1600x900.jpg On with the new freshness: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...9-1600x900.jpg |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Serious business!!
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I found some old pics with the Blazer in them:
I'm in white looking at the camera: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...3-1600x900.jpg My uncle, grandmother and cousin. I'm in the background: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...8-1600x900.jpg My older brother kicking the soccer ball in front of the Blazer: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...lazerZach1.jpg Me, my brother and father, and some cousins coming back from a hunt. I'm on the hood with one of my cousins: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...erHunting1.jpg |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Love seeing these old pictures. Nice memories for sure.
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Why Do Aftermarket Mirrors Creep? Life Hack
As folks know by now, I have a tendency to push the Blazer. 75mph....80...85. Yep, I may be guilty. Those darn aftermarket dumbo ears just can't stay put. And here's my next stab at fixing it.
So everybody knows there's a rubber insert and a metal clamp that cinches down on the stem/rubber to create the friction that holds them in place. Right? We also know the factory ones don't have the same problem. Here's why. It's not the rubber insert that is the problem it's the clamp. The factory unit is painted with some kind of paint that has a noticeable coefficient of friction when compared to the bare metal of the aftermarket units. That's one friction surface solved. The other one is between the rubber insert and the mirror stem. I got that figured out too. Here we go: I use this rubber stuff to wrap the stem with thin rubber. Wrap it tight and thin with not too much overlap. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...2-1280x720.jpg I then put the rubber insert over the rubber wrap. Once you clamp things down, don't adjust the mirrors. This rubber does something over a period of a few minutes time where it really turns to rubber. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1024x1820.jpg Then I insert it with a factory clamp. Perhaps you can paint the aftermarket clamp with some kind of self etching paint. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1024x1820.jpg Don't forget the factory clamp screws because the aftermarket's are different. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1024x1820.jpg Again, let it sit after clamping down on it. The rubber wrap material will bond with the rubber insert and really grip the stem. The factory painted clamp will provide the additional friction missing while still allowing some shear adjustment. Again this rubber tape is the lick: http://www.allelectronics.com/item/s...er-tape/1.html |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
I saw your Blazer Friday while headed out to lunch with a buddy of mine. How was the BBQ at that 4th best BBQ joint in Texas?
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You totally should have come in and asked around. Next time introduce yourself. :)
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Glad you got the mirrors fixed! Ever since I put the factory clamp and friction sleeve on my aftermarket ones they've been great too!
Also, those picture are great memories! Really cool to look at, thanks for sharing. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Time for another upgrade. As you can see from the old pictures above, we've had a pair of KC Hilites Daylighters on this truck from the beginning. Adequate lights for the time, but outgunned by modern standards.
While searching for a new set of lights, I came across this upgrade kit from KC Hilites that upgrades the guts of your original Daylighters to modern LED components. I also ordered new rubber inserts to freshens things up. For the benefit of readers I only installed one light to perform a comparison. The first picture is the original halogen insert. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...0-1600x900.jpg The second picture is the new LED insert and rubber. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...-1024x1820.jpg Now let's look at the comparison. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...9-1600x900.jpg I have the truck parked about 20 feet away from the garage door. The old lamp is in a spot pattern with a tight hotspot. I measured 2,600 lux in the hotspot. On the right side we see the larger spread of the LED driving light pattern. The hotspot on the LED is pushing 3,650 lux, with most of the pattern registering at least 3,000 lux. Overall, the LED version is probably pushing more than double the light of the original light. This is a significant upgrade to the originals. It's not top tier performance, but it's certainly good stuff. And in my case, the character of the original lamps is an important factor in my decision. For comparisons sake, I have a pair of Lightforce 215 LED lamps on my Jeep. They push north of 12,000 lux in their hotspot in a flood pattern. I also note that KC Hilites shows different performance numbers than what I measured. I think it's two things. The halogen's performance has degraded over time and the distance I'm measuring from is shorter than their specs. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
good info, interesting what you found out.
I bought a pair of these. http://www.kchilites.com/6-gravity-d...system-pr.html Pricey, but I like the vintage look combined with new technology. They saved me from hitting a deer this spring while headed to Death Valley so I figure it's worth it. BTW, found them for $250 on Amazon, shipped direct from KC. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Few more comments. One of my metal 4x4 rally caps walked off on me. Not sure if it worked itself loose or was stolen. I'm gonna loktite those suckers on going forward. I'm going to a little local car show tomorrow. I'm bummed that one cap will be missing.
My mirror solution was short lived. The part that must be able to shear/slip is the inner rubber sleeve surface to the mirror stem. My clever rubber stem wrap failed once you worked it a bit. I'm now running the factory clamps with factory rubber sleeves on aftermarket mirrors with factory rubber grommets. My bet is that they will still creep at speed regardless. I went ahead and replaced the other halogen assembly in the other KC Hilites Daylighter. New but old. They look sharp. I measured the light at the speced distance (10 meters). The factory specs it at 1,130 lux for the driving lights. I'm seeing 1,430 lux in the hotspots, so I'm not sure how KC Hilites comes up with their numbers. These lamps, again, are gonna work well. Remember, a factory low beam is typically punching around 550 lux in its hotspot. And these lamps are DOT certified to be an auxilary headlamp. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
We have a winner. Copying Phillip, the way to go is factory clamps. The rubber sleeve didn't seem to matter. I also grabbed the original rubber grommets for the stem, because they're way better than the aftermarket. The only thing you need from the aftermarket is the mirror/stem plus the bracket cover.
Also, figured out why I lost the cap. The wheel was about to fall off. Torqued everything down to 80 ft-lbs. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Went ahead and torqued it down to 100 ft-lbs. The original specs were for 30" tires, and after driving it a bit the lugs were already creeping a tad.
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Some Pictures:
Kids love the Blazer. Here's my oldest and a friend's kids enjoying the experience at the car show: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...0-1280x720.jpg And here's me doing a workover rig inspection today: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...7-1280x720.jpg http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...2-720x1280.jpg The fun thing is that the Blazer is back to doing some of the work that it was originally purchased to do 40 years ago. That's neat. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Super cool! Makes me all nostalgic remembering 1980 or so when I was that age. The neighbor lady (a few miles away) used to give my brother and I a ride to school and one day she showed up in a brand new K5, brown and white I think. I thought it was the coolest thing ever to ride in that truck. Same plaid seats and everything. Still do think these trucks are the coolest thing ever...just like being 10.
Keep up the good work man! Love your pics! |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Upcoming Projects:
I have a couple of projects I'm planning. The first is a simple one. I'm gonna pull the battery trays and POR15 or powdercoat them. I haven't decided which. Next is the big one. The transfer case gives me a clunk when I shift (especially into reverse). My reading suggest it's the differential section showing its age. I'm pretty committed to the NP203 because it's strong and I don't care about fuel economy. I also like the fulltime aspect of it. The sad thing is that support for it is waning. I can't find anybody that sales the differential gears. I have found a company that specializes in just transfer case rebuilds, but I'm trying to see if they will actually rebuild mine and not force me into a core situation. I'm a bit nostalgic, but ultimately, a like-new NP203 is gonna trump originality. If I'm going through the trouble of pulling the transfer case, I may have the TH350 rebuilt and cleaned up. |
Re: 1978 Russet Metallic 4x4
Nothing wrong with running the NP203. I would add Warn Premium hubs, just to eliminate the extra tire wear, but respect the originality approach.
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Also, if you do need to pull the tcase by all means pull the trans at the same time and keep them connected. Removing the notoriously heavy 203 all on its own is perhaps the most miserable task on our trucks, second only to attempting to reinstall it. There may be special trans jacks or jigs available, but I'm not familiar with them. Removing the bellhousing bolts, torque converter bolts and then the crossmember bolts and lowering the entire assembly is in my opinion much simpler and safer. |
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