Re: Johns 66
Oh...One last thing...I do have a surprise coming...Bought it from Mr. Paul at Pauls Truck Parts........gonna be trick...It wont be original but 6 bolts and I can quickly swap back to stock....should be here this week!!!!!!
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Well we think we have the not running right part fixed....After a talk with the converter company it appears they sent a 1400/1600 converter...they are sending me a 2000/2500 converter now....hopefully this will fix the issue of her falling on her face when you try to go.
So I sanded some more while waiting on the converter to arrive....got the majority of the back cab done and a coat of rattle can on it just to keep it from rusting....didn't find any rust or bondo which was a good thing. Once she gets ready to get painted I will take the glass out and get that area prepped...hopefully this is gonna save me a little money at the body shop..but who knows...lol I have already gotten new rubber for the glass and doors so when she goes to the shop Ill pull all the glass out and the doors apart so it is easier to paint. Once I get her running right I will then have all the metal work I need done fixed.....plus my surprise will need just a little fabrication done to it...but I think it will look trick once I'm done with it. |
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Sanding....more I do it....more I hate it....but the paint results keep me going. haha
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Surprise showed up today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Well worked on the ole truck this past weekend......We changed the torque converter and while it made it a little better it still will not run like it should.....So we are going to change the governor in the tranny and if that doesn't work we are going to pull it out and go through it...Randy seem to think that the one of the valves in valve body may be sticking.
I'm not sure if the carb is large enough to supply the needed fuel since it is a stock carb......we will get it figured out...just gonna take a little bit to get it all figured out...but I guess that's part of the fun of working on stuff like this...... So while I couldn't really get out and stroke the roads I decided to break out the surprise and work on it...and while I know it will not be original it is easily changeable by 6 bolts.... I saw this in another build thread and thought it looked really cool, really different but looks like it could have came from the factory that way....... Yes sports fans I am changing the grille...I found a C60 grill from Pauls Truck Parts and got it from Mr.Paul......The grille is in great shape......So I changed out the headlamp buckets....had to drill the rivets out of the C60 grill, and drill the rivets out of the Chevrolet. I am going to have some tabs welded in so that I can mount the Chevrolet in the middle of the grill.....But I got it centered and marked where it need to go, where the tabs need to be placed and will take that to get done after I get it running right. Then I will take it and get it chromed once she goes to the beauty shop........I think it will look really good...I used a small C clamp to hold it in place to see how it was gonna look...but she bolted right up no problems...I blast the headlight buckets and paint tehm flat black once I take it to the chrome shop.......I'm thinking I will buy new hardware/adjusted etc....when I do it...the spring looks a little rusted and weak but will check all that out later. |
Re: Johns 66
I like it!
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Nice!! I did the same thing when i saw the grill on (Maggies custom),had to have one!!!
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Cool different
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Well it has been awhile since I have posted anything...as they say Life Happens. Got the motor installed along with the 700R4 tranny....but doesn't seem to want to run right. Motor was built to 375hp specs.....bigger valves in the heads etc......just seems like a dog...doesn't seem to be shifting right,,,,,Trying to get all the mechanical stuff done before she goes to the beauty shop. More to come later
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Re: Johns 66
I have a similar build to you....original 327, new edelbrock heads, Bowtie 700R4, 2200 rpm TC, 4.57 ratio. Last 9 months, I've been fighting what I thought was an engine problem. Ran alright in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, but shifted to 4th (about 50 mph), and engine acted like timing was off.
Tried everything, carb adjustments, every timing combo under the sun, new intake, new heads, new HEI distrib, oil separator on the PCV, etc. Pulling my hair out. Finally, took it to a shop, told me he thought something wrong with the tranny (governor or pressure valve body), not the engine. Called Bowtie, as a troubleshooting test, they had me disconnect the torque convertor lockout circuit........and ran like a dream!!!! Evidently, my best guess is that my whole cam/tranny/rear end setup just doesn't have enough power to push 4th up past the normal lockout....and the tranny is acting like a brake to the engine. By not running the lockout through the brake pedal, it's essentially slipping enough for the engine to rev up past the torque convertor rpm. I know this is a workaround, and not ideal, but the truck now runs great. Just going to keep an eye on the tranny temperature, make sure i'm not putting too much of a load on the cooling system. Not saying this is your exact problem, just giving you some ideas to try. Hope it helps! |
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Im sure hoping this works for me....if it does then I can figure out what the main issue is. |
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Sorry I can't help you with the trans ordeal....I'm not a fan of overdrive transmissions, your situation is one of the reasons....hang in there!!!
Awesome build, and great work!!! Even though I have a 67 and a 68, I really like the 60-66's Your pickup should be a blast to drive with it's drive train!!! |
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I have a question that I posted in the suspension section but figured I would post it here as well to those who follow my build and may have knowledge of what I am trying to accomplish...so here goes
At this point my truck is bone stock in the suspension department. I am interested in doing a 2/4 drop and such have opened up a whole different world that I have no idea about. I "May" in the future put disc brakes on the front but as with anything I have to do this in sections...simply cannot go out and buy a whole new system at once...I do have a brake booster and used Captain Fabs bracket and it worked Great! Truck stop fine, but I did increase the HP when I had to rebuild the motor to around 375 and I added a 700R4 tranny. So here are my questions.....I have seen simply changing the springs. ECE has a kit that offers single rate springs, shocks and new pan hard adjustable bar...it runs around 440.00 They also sell just the 2/4 drop springs for about 230.00 I contacted a vendor here and he suggested Ride Tech Springs that are dual rate springs, I can also add adjustable shocks...Springs 435.00 Shocks 329.00 I also looked at QA1 coilovers….Of course the complete system is roughly 3500.00 plus I have to add new spindles and discs brakes which will add to the cost. I will not race the truck or really haul anything except I would still like to be able to pull my boat...No autocross etc...just normal driving Do any of you guys have an experience doing a 2/4 drop...Pros and cons of each. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated....John |
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All my daily drivers have been lowered, and my current daily is a '77 C10 with 3" spindles, cut 1-ton springs, a flip kit out back, and a notched frame. It might be a 5/6 drop, I never really measured. I still haul lots of stuff, and certainly have opinions....
If you're not going to track the thing at all, don't waste your money on adjustable shocks and coilovers. Just get a quality name-brand set of lowering springs for a 2/4 drop and call it done. If you need to spend money, buy sway bars - they are worth it. The only thing I would recommend is some helper air bags to assist carrying heavy stuff or hauling your trailer. You can air them up only when you need to. One of my biggest things is: "I'm 300 miles north of nowhere, and I need X part." If the parts are all basically stock parts, you can get replacements anywhere. But that's just my opinion. My '61 will run a mostly stock-part suspension, but I will be doing a lot of cutting to get it sitting where I want. |
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Upgrading to front disc brakes does not have to be expensive. If all you want to drop the front is 2", then all you need is a set of stock '71-'87 spindles, stock rotors and calipers and a set of 2" dropped springs. Oh I almost forgot about the tierods. If you can find the original '71-'87 steering linkage, that will save you from having to buy the $50 aftermarket tierod adapters.
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Skinny G...I appreciate the information....Im not going to track it...sure I may drive it kinda fast in a straight line from time to time but that's about it....definitely not gonna be a racer. I highly doubt that that there will be much weight ever put in the bed, I have some Ash wood that I am going to mill for the bed along with some polished stainless strips that I got from Mar-K. My question would be what would most consider a "Quality' set of springs? Does this mean they need to be dual rate? |
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The only things that I probably will ever pull is my boat or a small trailer with either my bike or lawnmower which I don't thin would be too terribly bad.....if I was going to pull for longer distances then I would just use my newer model Silverado to do that...Although I have been looking at a 19 GMC AT4 with a 6.2L kind of high right now so may wait on that to get a used one in a couple of years. I really appreciate the info on the brake changeover..I have a couple of junkyards around that I will hit up and see what they have....Someone told me that I could simply sway the whole cradle but if all I have to do is change the spindles, rotors and calipers, plus some tierod ends etc...Im thinking that may be the way to go. |
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I also checked with Advanced plating for an estimate on having my grille chromed....They said they had a recent fire and it will be awhile before they are back up and running but the estimate to chrome the grille and headlight bezels was almost 1600.00....Very Stout price
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Re: Johns 66
By "quality spring" I just mean something with a reputable brand name on it. Cheap springs sag a whole lot quicker over time.
A "dual-rate" or a "progressive" spring has you riding on softer spring rate for comfort, but the rate increases the more it is loaded, which helps carry that load better. Progressive (or dual rate) might be a good compromise. |
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Picked up some OEM NOS original door rubber gaskets today from Mike Cofield. I think these will be great to keep the windows sealed and from rattling..Although I am a ways away from taking her to the beauty shop its always good to get great parts...especially NOS parts. Thanks Mike really appreciate it
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Thoughts? |
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I am a big fan of spindles - it helps maintain proper suspension geometry and travel (as proper as it can be for the 60's).
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Here is my thinking at this point... I have had estimates from QA1 to change the entire front and rear for about 5000.00...while coil over front and rear with disc would be cool but cant justify 5k for the suspension plus would have to buy new wheels and tires... there are a couple of different ways that QA1 has Jegs seems to have the best price I found so I used their links https://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/52898/10002/-1 https://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/RCK52611/10002/-1 https://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/R210-250/10002/-1 https://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/52611-D750/10002/-1 Ride Tech has a suspension kit for about 2500. front and rear. https://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/52611-D750/10002/-1 This kit does have both front and rear with a front sway bar.....but does not include rotors, brakes etc..... So based on these two I have to go another way...Ride Tech does offer front stock springs that are dual rate, and rear 4" drop springs that are dual rate that I could put in with my stock set up for about 475.00 I checked with ECE and they have a system for around 1300.00 https://www.earlyclassic.com/node/1195 https://www.earlyclassic.com/node/1267 but with stock front springs or springs from about 115.00 a set The brake upgrade can be done after I am done with the cosmetic work so I am thinking I can still do research on this upgrade....Just have to decide which springs to go with. On a side note I did get my quotes for chroming the grille...WOW from 2000.00 down to a 1000.00. There is a place that is local ( in the state) that does this type thing and were the cheapest at around 1000.00 depending on condition once it is stripped. |
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I have been receiving quotes today from the many requests on having items chrome plated.
I did a search of local and not local business and here is what I have received. Paul's Chrome in PA 1500 for the grille, 250 each for the bezels Advanced Plating in Tn 1200 for the grill and 175 ea for the bezels Graves Plating in Al 1000.00 for the grill they didn't mention if that included the bezels and am waiting on a response from them El Paso Electroplating 295 for the grille, 25 ea for the bezels, Ruben stated that if I wanted "Show Quality Chrome" that it would be an additional 30%....which is way cheaper than any of the rest. I reached out to a member here that had his grill plated by El Paso and am waiting on his response to see what his experience has been with them. I know you get what you pay for but this will not be a trailer queen but I do want it to look nice. Thoughts? |
Re: Johns 66
Ordered a few things today for the ole 66.....Mainly door stuff
https://www.americanclassic.com/1964...ctinfo/03-806/ https://www.americanclassic.com/1964...ctinfo/03-568/ https://www.americanclassic.com/1960...tinfo/03-013B/ I read some threads where these items from this company were highly recommended, especially the press on door seals. I did find a place that I can go look at some 1st gen truck....supposedly there is a lot of them just sitting in a field...gonna try and run by there tomorrow and see what's there. From what I understand they are complete truck but time will tell |
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Went to the junk yard today to see about the 1st Gen trucks....Only had 2...one was partially fixed and it was plated with gold based on the price he wanted. The other one he had was a mix matched truck from parts from several different trucks...not what I would say would be a good candidate to even mess with...…
BUT...I did stop by and see Mike today and was able to pick up the NOS Fan Shroud....pretty neat to be able to buy a NOS part for the ole 66. My original is cracked in several places and I have tried to plastic weld it back with no luck so this was right on time...Thanks Mike. On a side note I do have another adventure planned for next weekend to look at some NOS parts...….we will see |
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Gathered some more parts today....Luckily I was able to get some NOS rocker panels and a set of NOS Emergency Brake Cables...….Cables are hard to take a picture of the cables.....so you just have to trust me..lol
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Well folks and any who may be following...I went shopping and was able to get some things....some I needed ...some I couldn't pass up.
Here is kinda a list of things I bought....Ill post pictures ...not sure how many you can put per a post. All the stuff is for a 60-66 C10 some specific for 64-66....I guess some things they used all 6 years. So here we go...… A set of NOS door for my 66 C10....they are just the shell but all the original stuff will fit. NOS front fenders. both sides NOS Script Valve Covers Passenger Side NOS Inner Fender NOS Outside Door Handles NOS, Tail Light and Park Lamp Bezels NOS Park Lamp Lenses NOS Back Up Light Bezels NOS Molding Clips...Top and Bottom NOS Dual Pulley...for when I add power steering NOS Window Crank Handles NOS Wiper Arms??? Its the ones that attach to the motor Automatic Steering Column ...Didn't need but couldn't pass up Deluxe Steering wheel....Didn't need but couldn't pass up ALSO I Bought a 402 Big Block with a 400 Tranny....all accessories including AC compressor...Not sure what I will use it for but who passes up a 402 big block These are the big things plus I got a few smaller used item |
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More Pics...Its very slow downloading for some reason so I will try less pics per post... Auto Steering Column and Deluxe Steering wheel......Didn't really need because I already have this but couldn't pass up because they are rare
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Here is a pic of one door.....didn't want to unpack both of them but you can see what it is...So a new set of NOS Doors.....So stoked!!!!
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Front Fenders...Again I only took pics of one because I didn't wanna unpack both
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Wow...super jealous John! The doors and the steering wheel are nice. I need to get a "new" SW...I need to figure out if I want an OEM one or an OEM look but slightly smaller version...if it exists. Those doors...WOW :jdp:
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Inner fender....I picked this up for Yelmer because I knew he was looking for one.....Mikes a good guy and has helped me tremendously throughout my build so this was the least I could do for him.
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Some other stuff …..Valve Covers, Door Handles, wiper arms etc
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I didn't need them but couldn't pass up New Doors, or New Front Fenders. I feel very fortunate to have been able to go and purchase these items. The other items you never really know about...they are not making them anymore so I think when you do find things like this that you have to get them while you can. |
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I did find a place near Atlanta that is willing to work with me on getting my rust repaired and is willing to do it in stages for me...I am planning on going over to talk with him after the holidays...fingers crossed. |
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That's great news...Their pictures look nice...I would love my grille, headlight and parking lamp bezels along with my bumpers done....Can't wait to see what you think!
I found this thread from years ago, looks pretty good. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=495482 |
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