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hey whats the diameter of the ring u used for ur arm mod and are u running a drop spindel
thanks

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8.5" but it really depends on the diameter of the bag you are running. You just want a safe distance around the bag so it doesn't rub. Yes I am running a 3" DJM drop spindle

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did u purchase upper control arms because ur ball joints are binding cause i did the same lower arm as u and i cant get mine to come as close ot the crossmember and i wanan know how to fix it im thiinking about pie cutting the upper to make the arm streight cause the ball joint mounts on an angle im mad confused on what to do

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billdo, I'm not quite following what your saying. You can't get what close to the crossmember? The reason I got the uppers was because the cost to rebuild the stockers with new balljoints and crosshafts was reason enough to just spend a little more and get the tubulars.

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my bad my lower control arm will not come as close to the crossmember like yours there is 3 inches or so from lower a arm to crossmember. thats all the travel i get cause my upper ball joint just stops

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Oh, gotcha. What do you have going on for the lower bag mount? My crossmember is close to the lower arm because I cut bag pockets in the arm.

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What is the loop piece made from? Can you buy thicker tubing pre-bent like this? Looks good.

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I got that from suicide doors.

http://*****************/SteelTubingBent.php

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i know i did the same bag pocket step for step as u but my upper ball joint wont let me go as low

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Did you do the crossmember section also? If not, that may be the reason.

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that shouldnt matter because the travel should be the same you just moving the crossmember up in the frame and i zed mine.

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Heres some updated pics of the front suspension:

So the only thing powdercoated is the frame. Everything else I sprayed with POR-15, then topcoated with POR Chassiscoat semi-gloss black. You can hardly tell the difference between the powder and por. Actually an average person would never know. Point being, it was a surprisingly good match.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2106/...07ba5e.jpg?v=0

The silver parts are POR Sterling Silver. It's a little too matte for my liking, but oh well. I'm imagining it will probably mark up easy. Here's a good view of the CPP sleeves that I clearcoated over the bare metal.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2174/...00f6a6.jpg?v=0

Heres a view of the new upper and lower shock mounts. I modified the lower mount and made a new upper mount for more travel and better alignment of the shock. The shocks are good ol monroes and I put poly shock bushings in.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3076/...5f8a67.jpg?v=0

Close up of the upper shock mount:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3028/...fe8542.jpg?v=0

Super-duper cool performance online tubular engine mounts:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3176/...30fc73.jpg?v=0

Manual steering box! oh yea!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2294/...b9f9d9.jpg?v=0

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Looks very nice, great work and attention to detail!

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Looks very clean. I really like the way the por 15 turned out. I didnt know that they made it in silver though?? Great work

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:agree:

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A lot of people confuse this, so I'll try to clear things up here. POR15 comes in black, clear, gray, semi-gloss black, and silver. The traditional POR15 is not UV stable, so in my eyes, I consider it basically a metal primer. So it has to be topcoated. POR15 (the company) also makes topcoats. The two topcoats I used are products called Sterling Silver and Chassiscoat Black. These topcoats are UV stable and made to go over the POR15.

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Thanks for clearing that up for me I didnt know that.. I might look into it for my control arms and steering components

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Man everything looks Great!!!!! Sweet Job!!!

Josh

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whats with the plates on the lower a arm nor more pocket

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just trying the plate out. With the pocket in the a-arms I cut, my frame was laying on the ground. I decided I want the frame when layed out to not touch the ground (for safety and cosmetic purposes) so i'm hoping raising the lower bag with the plate will put my frame right where I want it.

On a side note, my other lower arms will be for sale if I decide to stay with my plated arms. PM me if interested. Also if anybody is interested in the lower plates, I want to have some made, but so far, havent got enough replies. Let me know if you want a pair. Check my other post for details.

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Heres some pics of the rear.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2139/...ba1615.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2047/...511084.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2414/...e33690.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2064/...d00f14.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2319/...d00f14.jpg?v=0

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wow, looks like the wait has paid off.

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Thanks man, yes it's getting there. Just picked up a 700r4 a couple hours ago, so the engine and trans will be in soon. Next hurdle is either running brake lines or doing the air plumbing. Any body have any reasons why one should be done before the other??

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Looks really good man.. how much side to side rearend travel to you get with the panhard bar?

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Do them both at the same time... or just make sure you plan it out well, so they flow together when the latter is installed.

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lookin good

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Looks nice man.

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I like this project, looking good.:c2:

I have one question, What is the vertical center to center distance for your rear 4 link bars? I know that you said they are about 30" long, but how far apart are they vertically?

Anymore updates..??

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Post #25

Post #49


Looking at the pictures between these 2 posts, did you change the rear 4-link brackets? They look different. The fronts look the same, just flipped over. If you changed them, did you do it because the the reduced angle of the bars at ride height? Who's brackets did you use?

Thanks.

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The vertical center to center is 5.5".

I did change the brackets and your reasoning is correct: wanted to get the bars more parallel to the ground at ride height. I designed the shape of those brackets and had them cut on a CNC.

josh

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Its been a while since I updated this, so here are a couple pics. I almost have the brake lines finished. I purchased straight stainless line from inline tube and bent everything myself. I started at the rear with a flex line from the axle to the frame.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3138/...284902.jpg?v=0

Up the frame rail. The tubing is held on by these nice little stainless clamps that came in the kit from Inline.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2083/...2d5ac7.jpg?v=0

Here is where the rear and front lines meet. I decided to route the lines on the outside of the frame as they go up to the MC.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2232/...41b6b1.jpg?v=0

Heres a pic of the front crossmember line. This one took me FOREVER. This was my first time doing this, so I started my making a rough mockup with thick wire that was bendable my hand. Then I transfered that onto regular steel line. After I got that one perfect, I copied it with the stainless.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/...65cee2.jpg?v=0

I also got the valves mounted. I was bound and determined to get them all in a neat line across this cross member. At first it didn't fit, so I had to find an all male tee to save some space. After tracking one down on the web, it fit. I drilled and tapped the crossmember to mount the valves. 16 holes! Use Loctite 545. Awesome stuff to work with.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2333/...d7be90.jpg?v=0

close-up:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2086/...aca67e.jpg?v=0

Here you can see my compressor mounting plate and the other end of the brake flex line:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2160/...39a8c7.jpg?v=0

Compressors mounted:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2340/...506c8a.jpg?v=0

And two 5 gal slim and skinny's

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2045/...a2b55b.jpg?v=0

I still have to put clamps on those leader hoses.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3260/...c3b93a.jpg?v=0

That's it for now. Time for some body work!

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wow that looks awesome

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Oh ya im diggin that :metal:

Very nice work man keep it up!

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Very nice install!

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Looking good man. Nice and clean:D

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Work of art!

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Turned out great.. keep up the good work

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WOW! You have some real attention to detail! Now that you have all that practice you can plumb my truck when you get tired of working on your own truck!:lol:

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Thanks guys for all the compliments. Working on the plumbing has been kinda fun...change of pace from all the suspension work.

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Man that is some clean instal work..