Re: 1968
 

I also cut out the 3 inch circle for the gas filler. and spot welded it in.

Re: 1968
 

also, My helper got in the works. and my grand Daughter. She is my pride and joy. isn't grandchildren a blessing.

Re: 1968
 

It is coming alone just fine. Now that i have a game plan. No more jumping around from part to part. I get bored with something and go do something else.

Re: 1968
 

Wow
I thought that I had days I got a lot accomplished.
You Sir are flat out movin'!
I have to sit and stare at the screen, eyes wide open, cause if I blink you will have tons more done and I don't wanna miss it.:metal:

Re: 1968
 

A lot of nice work done and a great family and values, keep it up brother!

Re: 1968
 

Just read through your build. Great progress. Also glad to hear you're keeping the 68 front clip. Keep up the great work. I'll be following along!!!
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Re: 1968
 

Thank you so much. I try and do one thing and do it right. Sometimes it works and sometimes you have to step back and look.

Re: 1968
 

thank you I enjoy my adophed sons around and my grand daughter. Again thanks

Re: 1968
 

Yea me too. I like the look of the 68 more than saving a few dollars.

Re: 1968
 

Today, I blasted the rear cab and primed. Also installed the cab corner on the pass side Waiting for the bird to get done.

also some of my wife" idea. DOGS

Re: 1968
 

I still have to do the body work. So lets not look at the dents After I get the whole cab primed I will start on the dents and damage due to my welding and lack of knowing what i am doing.

Re: 1968
 

You are definately making the right decision on keeping the 68 front clip, one of the "upgrades" im going to be doing to mine that you might consider is upgrading to the 69-72 wiring harness so you have side marker lights so people can see you at night.
When it comes to safety non-lighted reflectors just don't cut it, plus on top of that side markers that don't light up seem silly to me.
There is probably a guy around the forums here you could trade a 67-68 for a 69-72 harness if you don't have one or can't get one localy.
Also I noticed you did a ton of cutting all at once and partialy removed the floor and the Inner rockers simultaniously and didn't weld in any braces before hand.
The cab geometry (Square) can potentialy change on you with that much metal removed at once.
Things that can happen are the cab corners can move in or out and up and down, it can "twist", it can do all kinds of crazy things that you would have to put it on a frame table to correct.
Be very careful that your fit and fair doesn't go out of wack between the "A" and "B" pilar on both sides or your doors won't fit right and you will have a nightmare on your hands because you will have to cut it all back out and start over, don't say I didn't warn you it's very important that you get this right.
I realize you didn't know that because you aren't a body or frame man which is why im telling you.
I would have told you earlier but I didn't know you were going to do that, and I hate to worry you but it's far better you know this now rather than later when you find out the geometry is out of wack.
I've got my fingers crossed that it's still good.
Keep on truckin!

Re: 1968
 

I agree... Not good to hear but has to be said. Your going at an Awesome pace, Really dig your build. In the past I've cut everything apart only to weld it back together just to cut it all apart again. School of hard knocks. Don't want you to have to go through what I did.
My build it kinda out in a different catagory (cab stretch) but I've got notes and have measured the snot out of everything, ie the straight square cart jig the cab is bolted to for a solid foundation. Believe me,,,,I could have 6 or 7 pages added to my build if I included all the pics of me measuring.
Can't wait to see all the new metal. Your doing great. Your smart and have a heart of gold. Plus you've got some great little helpers.

Re: 1968
 

It did not spring out any when i cut it out. the rockers were completely rotted with rust. Do you know what the distance is from A to B. and from side to side. I knew that it was important not to let it get out of wack. But I had no other choice when I found the bad stuff. I to will be keeping my fingers crossed. I only sopt welded the outside rockers due to this. Thanks a lot.

Re: 1968
 

Yes i think I have a night mare in my hands. The inter and outer rockers were all rotted alone with the pillars. The bolts on the pillars were also rotted out completely. I measured but I think it was in vane. Do u have the measurements for the pillars A and B I ask Keen the same thing. about measurements. I thought between the two of you one might have them. Or are they all different from truck to truck. no two r alike. again thanks I need all the help I can get. And my helpers are a God sent to me.

Re: 1968
 

Today I blasted the roof of the cab and primed. There was two 3/8 inch holes drilled in the roof. It looked like some one had two C B or something. I cut a small piece metal and welded them in and they come out nicely. I wish all my welds would come out that way. You can't even see where they were. I know that is what they supposed to do.

Re: 1968
 

On the drivers side door there a re a lot of rust out places . what is the best way to fix this.I have trouble welding up side down.

Re: 1968
 

Today i blasted the fire wall and called it a day. Pic will follow Monday.

Re: 1968
 

In situations of welding in difficult places I start out just a tack weld at a time. Takes a lot longer but ends up being easier. As for the measurements of your year of cab I don't know specifically. Not sure if an assembly manual would have that information. Since I stretched my cab I basically used the A pillar and front cab roof line and the door to move and make (what I felt) was an acceptable gap between panels.
You may want to just tack panels into place before committing to a full out welded in place to test fit your doors and rockers.
Your doing great so far. Just take an extra moment to check then go back to your 110 mph. Your flyin through this build:metal:

Re: 1968
 

Today i cleaned up my work area. Boy was it in a mess. Tomorrow I will finish the front of the crowl cab. blasting I mean. I will post pictures tomorrow. I also will be trying to patch drivers side damage under the rain gutter. wish me luck. I never had luck welding up side down. My welds look like it came out of a tube when I weld up side down.

Re: 1968
 

Today I finshed blasting the Lower part of the fire wall. And blasted the inside of the cab. and primed the inside of the cab. Tomorrow I will install the short hump. My old one was for a standard shift transmission. I did not like the hole in the hump and it was too tall for me. (Looks) I also bondo glass the hood. I am going to use this one until I find one that had no repairs or buy one. Which ever comes first. The first Of the year I will be going to St. Petersburg, Fl. There is a company that has the hood, doors,front floor pan and rear floor pan for the drivers side. This way i will not have to pay shipping. Shipping of this much will be as much or more than the asking price.

Re: 1968
 

Do you have a better pics of the rust damage of your hood?
While your back getting all the sheet metal replacement parts they might have a spec guide for the measurements of the cab, gaps and such.

Your an animal,, keep it up.:metal:

Re: 1968
 

good progress for you. ill measure my cab for you if you need me to. pm me.

Re: 1968
 

I have not purchased the wiring harness yet. But indeed I will up grade to the 69/72

Re: 1968
 

I had a friend to come over and we measured the door openings on his truck and they were 35 inch and we measured mine and both door were 35 to the letter. I hope they stay that way. keep your fingers crossed

Re: 1968
 

Today I installed the automatic transmission hump and wire wheeled and grind the welds and primed it. Tomorrow I hope to tackle the rust under the rain gutter on the driver side door.

Re: 1968
 

Also I got the rubber around the vent window today. A friend came by today and he needed a turn signal switch, but had none. So as we were looking thru his truck he found the rubbers and gave them to me. It saved me a few dollars.
tomorrow I will go and get the doors from him that came off the cab and see how far off I am from 35 inches
I also primed the crowl

Re: 1968
 

No I covered the bad spots up with tiger hair. I am going to sand them down tomorrow if I have time.

Re: 1968
 

Thanks I got the measurements from a friend and his was 35 so I am on the mark. But thanks for asking.

Re: 1968
 

I tried the welding tip that you said. And it seams to work tell you more tomorrow.

Re: 1968
 

Really good to hear the cab is staying still. Makes me wish I had more day light. Working 4am-4:30 and not getting home til 5:30 cuts into working on the truck.
Your doing great work!

Re: 1968
 

i feel you on this. just got home (its 7 pm here). still have to eat. then i better get in the driveway and get to work. because as great as it is, the truck just wont seem to fix itself.....

Re: 1968
 

I went over to a friend's house and got the orginal door that come off the cab. But My spacers that go between the hinge and the truck don;t line up. is there something i am doing wrong. I started to get upset so i took a break. I did not get to work to much on the truck today. A lot of runing around had to be done.
But I did manage to prime the front of the truck and sanded the hood.

Re: 1968
 

more pic. also primed the inside of cab roof.

Re: 1968
 

sometimes I wish I still worked. It seams that I work harder being retired. But at least I can stop and sit down when I am tired.

Re: 1968
 

today I did not tackle the rust under the rain gutter. I will tomorrow.

Re: 1968
 

Is there any difference between the ball joints in a 68 drum to a 72 disk brakes.
I hope to get my new 72 frame over here this week. I am going to use parts off the 72 to make my truck have disk brakes . So I hope the ball joints are the same. Someone said that they think the ball joints are a little longer for disk brakes.

Re: 1968
 

there are more guys here who are more knowledgeable than i.
BUT i did have to switch the upper and lower ball to get '77 spindles on.
dont forget to check lug nut sizes too. i missed that.
also check tie rod end taper for disc spindles. i changed them 'cause they were cheap (bought 77 ones to match the spindles) but not sure if the taper is the same. i know the adjuster is different between 69 and 77.

Re: 1968
 

Not sure what to think of the spacer between the hinge and truck. If it came off it should go back on. You may be experiencing some "Murphys Law".
Can you use the a arms and everything? Convert the whole thing over all at once? I would think the only difference would be if one is a 3/4 ton vs a 1/2 ton. Don't quote me on that though.
I pulled the front cross member out of my '66/a arms/spindles/everything all at once and stuck in a '79. Only had to drill two holes.
Might try asking a reputable parts store. If you get someone nice they should be helpful on a question like that.
Good Luck. For running around not getting anything done, you sure got alot done.

Re: 1968
 

there is an faq on the drum to disc swap. after my walk ill link it here.
pretty sure you'll need new ball joints and the reason will be the size of the taper.