Re: 49 ls1
 

Chris, looks good and Happy New Year...Jim

Re: 49 ls1
 

Happy New Year to you too Jim!

Re: 49 ls1
 

Looking great! Nice work man.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Thanks Josh,

finished the 4 link setup today. came out pretty sexy looking! 2.5 days of hard work, but well worth it. I think next time I'll just buy the damned tabs though. I spent like 6 or 7 hours cutting. Here's pics

Re: 49 ls1
 

Here's the finished product. Now to pull it all apart and seam everything in. I also found some thru rust on the frame behind the front spring hangers. I'll need to address that before the upper link cross member gets welded in.

Re: 49 ls1
 

nice work, yeah sometimes little things like that are worth buying or having your own cut out in bulk. are you going with bag behind axle?

Re: 49 ls1
 

Looks good Chris. Have one question, after you had your bottom bar in place, did you have a set distance for the top bars, so they were paralle to the bottom bars. Or did you fab your tabs after checking were you wanted them? Hope I'm clear in what I'm asking...Jim

Re: 49 ls1
 

99, I'm going to put the bags in front of the axle, between the lower links and the frame. if I get them as close to centerline of the frame as possible, this should give me the most stability possible, while still maintaining tire clearance.

Jim, I think I understand what your asking... I actually used mason's line from about I foot behind the transmission (on a jackstand) an ran it to the rear end to keep my upper links in line (make sense?) I measured one side from the line on the axle tube to the backing plate, and mirrored the other side. Then marked both the axle and crossmembers along the mason's line. Quadruple checked everything, then checked once more for good measure. Then mocked up my upper links with square tubing and stands to hold them where I wanted them. I made my crossmember tabs first, and tacked them. Then re-measured and re-checked my alignment (probably 4 more times), then used posterboard to template the axle tabs. All my tabs were hand cut, and then sandwiched together in pairs for final grinding and drilling. That is probably about as clear as mud huh? To be honest, I am pretty sure I spent more time scratching my head trying to figure out the most full proof way to keep things square than I did building the damned thing.

But I can tell you that I can lift the rear of the frame over 4 feet high, and using a laser on a steel bar, verify that everything stays straight all the way up with absolutely no suspension bind

Re: 49 ls1
 

Nice build!!

Re: 49 ls1
 

That looks really good. Nice build x2. So when you coming to by mine!!:lol::lol::lol:

Re: 49 ls1
 

Thanks guys.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Chris, thanks for the info. Yes I understand what you did, kind of like the Ackerman principle for the front end, except in reverse, really nice job...Jim

Re: 49 ls1
 

That operation will be next on my list of things to square up a four link.

Still trying to get a visual on the string line one foot behind the transmission?

Re: 49 ls1
 

Nice build, chassis works looking great.
Shawn

Re: 49 ls1
 

Solidaxle, I am by no means an authority on linked suspension. But my understanding is that the instant center is the thoretical line where your links would intersect if they were continued along there current axis. I've been told that shortly behind the tailshaft (on a hot rod) is the "sweet spot" to shoot for, but it needs to be within 50-80 percent of the center of gravity (distance from the middle of the bell housing to the ground at ride height) in order to keep your anti-squat from being too great, or too little... I ran the mason's line along my intended axis to be sure that I kept my upper links parralel to it during installation.

I know, more mud, sorry. Not very good at explaining. Here is a link to a 4x4 site with much better information on 4 links
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga....htm#AntiSquat
Once you've read that, and understand it, here's a link to a fancy 4 link calculator on Pirate...
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4l...tml/index.html

Hope that helps

Re: 49 ls1
 

Me neither !!!
That is why I am asking questions BEFORE I string it up!

Thanks for the info, this is my first 4 bar.

Re: 49 ls1
 

The angles look good, I haven't peeped your links yet, but will. I like reading up anything I can. A side note for the fellas asking about the angles, those are one thing. The other thing is keeping in mind your bag travel. At ride height, you want the bottom bars level and your top bars level or from what I'm told, slightly higher on the axle and a slight grade to your xmember. What the top link bars do here or on a wish bone is not only keep the axle from going left to right but also keeps it from axle wrapping (if doing bolt on lower links) and or less stress on lower link bars that are welded to axle. These bars IMO are more critical than the lower link bars, tho both are extremely critical.

oh, I forgot to mention all angles and link bars should be added when the axle is at the proper ride height pinion angle, which is based off of your trans. looks like that is what sarge did. on system with bolt on link bars (many people do) its a bit more forgiving because you can shim your axle to adjust pinion.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Exactly 99. My frame is was mocked up at ride height, with a +1 degree pinion angle (so when it's under torque it should travel to 0 degrees). The uppers are by far the most critical, the angle of the uppers will affect your anti-squat. In simple terms, If your instant center is too far forward, the axle will try to force upwards under acceleration causing hop and traction issues. If the instant center is too far back, you will end up with axle wrap, pre-mature tire wear, and Huge amounts of stress on your link/tab ends.

Also, the higher off the axle tube that the uppers are, the better it will control axle wrap (within reason) this measurement should be no less than 25% of the total tire height. My uppers are a shade over 8" above the lower link mounts. I'm using 24" tall tires, so my upper and lower links need to be separated at a minimum of 6" in height. If you were building a rock crawler with 40" tires, you would want your upper and lower links vertically separated by at least 10 inches.

Uppers should be situated at an upward angle, but as I said before, the horizontal roll center (viewed from the side) needs to be at least 50% of the COG, but shouldn't exceed 80% of the center of gravity (middle of the bell housing). It makes sense to me, but sounds very confusing... LMAO!

Re: 49 ls1
 

not too many pics today. finished seaming all my suspension today, removed the rear crossmember and spring perches, and mocked up the gas tank today. I also fixed my frame rust. here's pics.

Re: 49 ls1
 

ha, I was just looking up tanks today. Yours looks like a 65 stang. I'm looking into blazer tanks and also repro chevy car tanks, all exit out side and are good specs and prices are good. I just gotta confirm my area and see if how big of a tank I want.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Yup, 65 Stang tank. If it makes any difference, this tank will fit with a 5 gal air tank in front of it. Gives about 1.5" of clearance behind the diff at full stuff. I just liked it cause it didn't require straps, and seemed pretty compact. I hear now that the 68-9 tanks are 18 gal instead of 16. Next time.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Hey Chris, since you already have your tank, are you going to be running and external pump, etc for the ls engine...Jim

Re: 49 ls1
 

Yes sir, external pump with Corvette return style fuel filter. I'm gonna use a universal fuel sender dropped in the top of the tank for the 0-30 ohm stock 55 Chevy fuel gauge in the dash.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Im looking at that same tank... on ebay! Like $108.00 plus shipping!!! The good thing is they are right here in Charlotte, I just dont know if they stock or drop ship yet. LOL I asked about dimensions, but havent gotten a response yet. I was going to ask about the pickup/sending unit, but you kinda answered that already. Where do you get the sender/pickup and what mods will you have to make to it to make it work with that tank?

Re: 49 ls1
 

I got that tank off ebay as well. It was like $72 + shipping. It is the one with a drain (thought it would be smart). The tank is 32" wide and 24" deep. Just perfect, I can fit my air pumps on either side of it, and 5 gal air tank in front behind the rear end. This one came with a ford sending unit and pickup (Ford 230-73 ohms). As far as I know, no one makes a GM sending unit that fits it, I am going to order a universal sending unit off ebay, and mount it in the top of the tank, along with my fuel return line. No mods needed, just cut the hole and drop it in. Be sure to do this BEFORE you put gas in the tank (cause gas fumes and sparks don't mix) and vaccum it out (rinse too) before you try to run your engine.

All GM fuel gauges are 0-30 ohm until 1964, then they switched to 0-90, all aftermarket GM fuel level gauges seem to be 0-90. so be sure your sending unit is for the correct ohms for the gauge you are using.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Thanks for the info!

Re: 49 ls1
 

For those of you using an original 6v fuel gauge with 12v wiring harness, here is a voltage reducer. They also sell those universal sending units. Any repro chevy tanks (not sure about ford) all make the sending units holes based off of modern repro sending unit bolt patterns, not the old bolt patterns. Like sarge is doing however, is just drilling his own sending unit pattern, with a new tank def ideal. I ran into all these problems on my 51', so I ordered a tank from tanks ink and a 30ohm sending unit. Spent too much on it, should have went a different route, glad I am on my 49' but using different tank and location.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-.../#.UsbbPbQy7g4

Re: 49 ls1
 

I was going to use the stock s10 fuel tank, but I have changed my mind because it limits exhaust routing, and i dont like that. So i have been thinking for awhile about the mustang tank. Plus I'd like to get my cab a little closer to the frame than most are doing. Thanks for the info 99. At this time I dont plan to use the stock gages, as I dont have any in my truck, but will still need to know that type of info for what I am planning to use. WHEN I get to that point!

Re: 49 ls1
 

billy no prob, not trying to clog up this thread, just adding some little pointers. with the s10 location tank it really isn't a bad location as you can just run your exhaust over to the pass side and stop right after cab, easiest route ever, but no tail pipes. just all depends on what you got goin on. reason I don't like rear end tanks is fear of being rear ended. You should see my s10 that got hit and ran, pushed the bed all the way into cab. But with most bagged builds the rear tank is good because it keeps the tank far off ground. As for your gauges, if your not that worried about it, just use stock tank and sender with a little aftermarket gauge you can hide under the dash.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Billy, I used a stock S10 tank on my 48 build. I actually like the location, it allowed me to place my fuel neck out the dvr side of the bed side, below floor height for a clean "could have been factory" look.

I routed the exhaust along the right side of the bed, then exited below the tailgate. My 48 s10 framed build is in my sig if you want to check it out.

~Chris

Re: 49 ls1
 

Oh I already did Sarge! I actually followed it while you were building it! I liked the entire thing! Your build gave me lots of ideas and directions for mine.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Thanks, I used a lot of other folks build ideas, and then tweaked them to what my kid wanted. The most important thing to remember on these old trucks is... whether you did it right, or you did it wrong, at least you did it! That's more than 99% of the world can say.

As long as it's safe I mean... LoL

Re: 49 ls1
 

I agree. My dad had a 51 for as long as I can remember and I'm 45. I don't remember him not having it! We still have it although there isn't much left of it anymore. My brother has it now. I'm using the front clip from another 51 that my dad had for a very long time on my 49.

Re: 49 ls1
 

What are you planning to do with the oe sender hole in that strange tank?

Re: 49 ls1
 

ayep... Keep em in the family. My old man has Packards, Buicks, and Cadillacs. They will stay till at least my grandkids inherit them all!

I was going to leave the Ford sender, and use the fuel pickup that's there. Then add a bulkhead return and the universal sender to the top of the tank. I've also changed around plans for the rear bags. I'm going to axle mount them under the C-notch now. Should have pics tomorrow of that. At least mocked up.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Got good updates today. I decided that I didn't really want the bags hanging on my lower links afterall, so I went with a bag-over-axle setup. Made my C-notches out of 2x4 1/8 wall square tube. Set the bottom of the C-notch 5 7/8" off the top of the axle tube, to account for 3 3/8" of compressed bag and plates, 1" of pedestal off the axle (to access the lower bolts) and 1.5" lower I wanted the running boards at full stuff. Here's some pics.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Here's mocking up the C-notches and getting the lower bag plates ready to weld on the axle

Re: 49 ls1
 

Here's the finished product. Boards are exactly 2" off the ground. With my 24" tall tires, that will make the boards 1/2" off the ground aired out. Now my issue is that the oil pan is touching the garage floor! Anyone have any real measurements on that Hummer oil pan? I need 2" shorter than stock truck oil pan, otherwise it's cut and TIG the damned thing.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Super nice progress man. I like the bag over axle alot better than on the links for sure. Very nice work buddy.

Re: 49 ls1
 

Thanks Josh, that C4 setup you're building is gonna be tits! I'm a little jealous. LoL

Yeah, the lower links taking all that additional stress wasn't sitting to well with me. I know that those S10 guys do it, but that doesn't mean it's the right answer.

Tomorrow I'm going to try to get the tank framework, Air pumps, and air tank figured out. My air line and fittings should be here on Monday or Tuesday. My old man's gonna be here this coming weekend, and I'd like for it to go up and down when he comes out to the shop to check it out.