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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Awesome man! Hope my tbi fires up without a hitch like your's! I'm a little scared of the electronic voodoo.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Looks great, nice job...Jim
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice job, still love the stance
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I’ve been doing some misc. stuff on the truck this past week, things that don’t really get it on the road quicker but some items I’ve wanted to tackle. One of them was dealing with all the freak’n holes in the firewall. I wish I had taken the time to patch them up and at least shoot some primer over them when I had the truck apart but I didn’t so, here’s my solution for at least now, or permanently, not sure yet. Only time will tell if the vinyl holds up to the heat under the hood.
I made some patterns out of poster board, I always thought poster board was thicker but that’s what they called it at Hobby Lobby, it’s a thick paper kind of like a manila folder. I used hardboard from Home Depot as the backer. It’s held on the fire wall with some t-nuts from Westlake Ace Hardware, covered in vinyl I picked up at Jo-Ann’s fabric, with staples I had to go pick up on a separate trip to Home Depot. Oh, and the adhesive that I used to glue to the foam to the vinyl was DAP from Home Depot though I remembered to pick that up when I was getting the hard board. Did I mention that I f’d up on the second piece and stapled the material to the wrong side of the board. I was half way through it and already had most of it trimmed so I couldn’t flip it around, thus accounting for a second trip to Jo-Ann’s. I’ll fill some of the remaining holes with plastic plugs or make use of them for wiring. Some pics… https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...703_120334.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...703_120746.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9...703_125253.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...703_130649.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--...703_145915.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...704_133509.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...28268%2529.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Bumpers and overall stance look perfect. Interesting/innovative temp solution on the firewall. dug
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Just looking through this build thread, you make it look so easy. But I appreciate what goes on behind the scenes to get to what you post. Some really elegant solutions along the way. As others said, you've pretty much nailed it all. And oh that stance....
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I tackled my transmission tunnel over the past couple of weekends. Yes, you heard me right, couple of weekends. It's been HOT as hell in KC the past couple of weekends so my garage time has been a bit limited, plus, took me a bit of time to figure this one out.
I wanted to make a transmission tunnel that was easily removable so I could access the transmission bolts, cooler lines, etc. easily. I started by making a perimeter frame out of 16 GA metal. Once I got the perimeter frame made I simply laid a piece of poster board in it to get a template for the tunnel. I found the easiest way to mark the template was to use spray paint so as to no disturb its position in the frame. I then cut out the poster board and taped it in the frame. I also located the hole for the transmission shifter and got everything test fitted and in place. I then used the poster board template to mark a piece of 20 GA sheet metal and cut it out. I used a propane tank to get a curve in the tunnel along with tweaking it by hand. The nice thing about the frame was that I was able to work on the tunnel on a bench rather than in the car. The 16 GA frame was stiff enough not to get tweaked out of shape while fitting the tunnel. Below are some pics I took along the way. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...716_155020.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...716_163441.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...716_165147.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...716_165153.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8...716_165219.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-A...716_170312.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...716_175825.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...716_180105.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...716_181558.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...723_174102.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...723_193000.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S...723_193049.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...723_193121.jpg |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Good job on the tunnel!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Very nice work!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
make me a tunnel please! haha
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Very nice work on the tunnel...
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
gorgeous tunnel work!
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Very nice...Jim
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Thanks all. This weekend I'm focused on the dash. Probably noticed in the pics above that it's bare metal. I have to patch the cut out for the steering column and I have another small patch from rust through. The I'm just going to smooth some of the rust pits with filler then rattle can on some primer, sand, then rattle can on some gloss black. For now I think the rest of the cab is going to stay as is. I'm hoping to be able to drive it in the next month or two so I'm not spending much time on the cosmetic stuff.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
What great fabrication. This build thread pushed me over the edge when deciding on another s10 swap. Following this one for sure. The fit and stance is great.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I did a quick paint job on my dash last weekend. I also centered and enlarged the cutout for the steering column. I shot it with some primer, sanded with 600, then shot it with Rustoleum Professional. I have to give a thumbs up for the Rustoleum Professional, it comes in a larger silver can, I’ve seen it at Home Depot and Lowe’s. This stuff laid out awesome for a rattle can. The last coat I put on heavy and wet and didn’t get any runs. It dried with a good gloss and minimal orange peel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cs...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X9...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XO...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Z...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lt...=w1378-h775-no |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
The brakes have been 90 percent done for some time. I finished off the remainder this weekend by getting the final pieces in place and bled the system out. I used a modified S10 pedal bracket. The brake booster is an eight in. dual diaphragm that I got from Pirate Jack’s and the master cylinder is from a 1980 Corvette which had front and rear disk brakes. Currently I don’t have a proportioning valve. If I have issues with the rear wheels locking up I’ll install an inline valve to the rears. I read a great article on brake system valves which I used to arrive at my decision not to install a proportioning valve just yet. I had posted that article here previously, post 4:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=710975 I installed new lines on the front and made use of the OE rear line. I found out that bending brake line templates out of coat hanger makes the install a bit easier. I did a Blazer big brake swap and the front brake hoses and hose brackets are from a 2000 Blazer. I also moved the brake light switch. The new switch incorporates the brake lights, TCC lockup, and cruise control into a single switch, P/N AC Delco D1541D. The front terminal pair is normally open (brake lights) and the two rear terminal pairs are normally closed (will be used for the TCC lockup). To bleed the brakes I used a pneumatic bleeder I picked up at Harbor Freight. Harbor Freight tools can be hit and miss but I thought this one was a winner and I would recommend it. The entire system was dry with a new master cylinder. I started at the furthest wheel back and worked my way forward. By the time I was done with the last wheel the pedal was firm and there was no need to go back and do any additional bleeding. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2M...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fU...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pY...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ev...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kn...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J2...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0t...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BV...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fJ...=w1378-h775-no |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
nice work! its nice that the standard s10 caliper hoses fit the blazer brakes, because the blazer hoses dont fit the standard s10 caliper, and the rubber lines dont fit the blazer hard lines, or even the blazer frame brackets! (I bought a blazer line and hose setup, my truck frame did not have any)
brakes are the one thing I cant stand doing. I am going to pick up a harbor freight bleeder on your advice, I have a 10 year old mity vac that is a giant pain to use. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Thanks mate! I was about to buy some stainless braided brake hose and the needed AN adapter fittings from Summit for the front flex lines then though, why?
I've been trying to put as many auto parts store available parts on my truck as possible that way if I do have future issues the replacement parts are easily obtained. About the only custom items are my Spahl fan and Summit radiator. One other tool you may want to look at is the Eastwood Pro Brake Tubing Flaring Tool. You can use it to make double flares for brake lines and also bubble flares for hard lines to soft lines. It is a bit pricey at $200 but it works really, really well. I have a small hand held flaring tool but never really liked it. It's kind of hard to justify a $200 brake flare tool but I'm kind of a tool junkie though. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Also another note I should have pointed out above is I got all of my brake tubing and fittings at Advance Auto. Their fittings are about the best price I've seen anywhere. Even if a line comes with a fitting, I prefer to cut it off over using an adapter, it avoids another potential leak source and I think it provides a cleaner look.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Very nice work! Real clean on the brake pedal assembly mounting. How good is the finish coating on the brake booster from Pirate Jack?
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Nice work, I'll have to give the prop valve a read. My 51' had all new everything and drums on rear, its got issues I need to diagnose. My last build used all disc, 7" booster and prop valve and it stopped way better. So maybe my drums aren't adjusted right. I got same booster for current truck off pirate bay, it doesn't look like a powder coat to me.
If you get fittings from parts store, look behind their counter for the ones that come bulk, way cheaper than buying the ones out on the floor. also we have a place called Hovis in my town, they have the cheapest fittings anywhere water, brake etc. They also sell air ride stuff. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
As 99 noted above, the booster doesn't look like powder coating, more like that electro deposit paint that comes on replacement panels. Not a high gloss but more of a semi gloss. I would give it a 7 out of 10, not bad, but if you want it to look really nice it would need to be repainted though I don't think you would be disappointed.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I got the gas filler squared away. I ended up piecing together a filler neck out of my original S10 filler neck. I cut it off about where it bends and also cut off the end. I then welded on the end to have a sealing lip. Instead of using my MIG I thought I would give gas welding a try with some 1/16 filler rod.
I got the grommet from McMaster-Carr, P/N 63595K38. They’re made by Kennard (http://www.kennardind.com). It’s really a pipe grommet but I thought it worked well. I also bought an assortment of these for my wiring; they make them for all different IDs. I like them because they have a center that stretches easily. The easiest way to find them is to search for “Pipe Grommet” on McMaster-Carr’s website. I plan on getting a new gas cap ordered. I saw another builder use a Harley Davidson fuel tank cap, P/N 61102-83, its chrome, threaded, and vented. My plan is to keep this non-vented cap on when it’s parked in the garage over longer periods of time but swap out for a vented cap when I drive it. From the pics the neck looks like its installed horizontal but it actually has a slope to it. I positioned the fill inlet a couple inches higher than the connection on the gas tank. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gv...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i4...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kn...=w1378-h775-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Oo...=w1378-h775-no |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
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Do you have a downloadable pdf on these like the cab mounts you've posted? |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
^^^^^
I did not make up any drawings of the running board frame. Because of the subtle differences that may exist, I think you'd be more satisfied building them to fit. My suggestion is to first cut the short 1x1.5 in. pieces that bolt to the running board, get them drilled and mounted on the board. Then lay the long 1x1.5 piece on the board, make your marks on your smaller mount pieces then notch them out and weld those to the longer piece that runs the length of the board. One item to note is try to make that notch as tight as possible or else they will warp when welding them on. Following that cut your 1.5x3 in. piece that bolts to the frame. From the pics you can get an idea of how tall they are. From the pics you can also get an idea of about where they mount vertically and horizontally along the frame. I would suggest drilling some elongated holes in them so you can can move them up and down a little to fine tune their height. I would suggest cutting the piece that connect the running board to the frame mounts a little long. Fit them up and identify where they mount to the running board frame, weld that up, then you can fit them up to the frame mount. I had installed a new cab to running boar rubber filler piece before mocking up my running boards. I think doing this made it easier getting them aligned and mocked up. Good luck and happy building! |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I just spent a couple hours going through your entire build thread. Some if it looks very familiar as a lot of us have gleaned the same info from other build threads over the last few years. I also appreciate the innovations you have come up with. Many of them will definitely give me fuel to finish my build.
I definitely see a few things I wish I would have done different on mine, but then on the other hand you actually put my mind at ease in several areas where I have been second guessing myself. (ride height being one) Since mine is my first ever build, I fear that I will end up with a few regrets along the way, but that's part of the process. My build has been very slow due to life getting in the way from time to time, but Im getting to a place where I will be able to devote a little more time and resources to getting this thing on the road. All time and effort that went into documenting your progress is much appreciated and I will definitely be following for more ideas and insight. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Hey Bartman, you know, your video and build is where I got the positioning of the cab mount 2 in. forward of the "oval hole" in the frame. I had also studied your build several years ago when getting started on mine. There's a lot of great info on here and I'm a big believer of not trying to re-invent the wheel, but rather try to make improvements on it.
I've had fun documenting my build hoping that it may help others along the way. I'd say mine is a pretty good composite of many of the good ideas I had picked up from other threads. I understand the life thing, I've been at mine for several years now. Hope to see some updates and where you go on your truck. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
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Seems fairly easy enough, thanks |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Excellent details on attaching running board brackets. I am at that point in my restro, but what's "running board rubber filler piece" can you send me a pic or a link so I can get that piece(s) so I can illuminate alignment issues.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
^^^^^
Look for P/N 30-2330 on LMCs Website. Their diagram provides a good description of what it is. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=26 |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Thanks for that info.
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Getting everything wired up is my next major task at hand. I’ve divided up the wiring into three major groups 1) Power Supply and Starting System, 2) Engine Wiring, and 3) Chassis Wiring. The engine wiring is in place and was fairly easy though I still have couple circuits I have to integrate into the chassis wiring harness. I’ve also got the power supply done.
I made up a hot start kit for my starter anticipating possible hot start issues with headers, been there before. On the starter I used a small piece of copper tubing hammered flat to jump the start terminal and the battery cable terminal. I then installed a Ford starter solenoid back at the battery. This keeps the starter power cable from being powered all the time and will reduce the start terminal wiring voltage drop notorious on hot GM starter solenoids which pull a decent amount of current. For the starter cable I used 1/0 AWG welding cable I picked up on eBay. I have two power supply cables. Each of the power supply cables run through a maxi fuse made by Cooper Busman, these holders are nice and were around $10. The power cables are 6 AWG welding cables. One supply runs to the cab which provides power to the fuse block. The other runs to the front of the truck which will provide power to the electric fan, headlights, and future fog lights (via relays). Everything is hooked up to the battery via military style battery terminals. Here are a few in-progress pics. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cw...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fH...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k2...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XR...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HI...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6A...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k1...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gy...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pF...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ym...=w1531-h861-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rr...=w1531-h861-no |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Man, love the attention to detail. Great photos. dug
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
look at all those adel clamps! :)
what great attention to detail, I wish I had a fifth of it. look at all that new hardware too, just staggeringly gorgeous. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
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FYI...I've experienced that eBay has been a great source for misc. items like wire loom, electrical crimp terminals, wire, cable, adel clamps. heat shrink, switches etc. Most vendors ship for free, or for a low fee with combined shipping, and stuff typically gets out within a day. |
Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
I still have a few in my toolbox from when I was an avionics tech! sometimes when you would run a couple extra wires, engineering would call out the next larger size for the bundle. regrettably I have used the zip ties with the holes instead on most of my stuff. haha
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
Can you measure for me how far your running board mounts hang below the frame?
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Re: "Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis
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