Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

Update time. So I replaced the strut rod bushings that I had to make due with f250 ones when I put the trans in. Well I knew the toe was in when I got done but didn’t really pay attention to how bad. 100 miles and the tires are done. I figure well if I have to get new tires and an alignment I may as well go ahead and put all my new controls arms and bags on the front.

So yep, now it’s a 65 Lincoln with a 6.0, 6 speed, 22s, and bagged all the way around. Soon to be tunneled and running Cadillac seats, possibly rear also.

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

But then I realized hell I can do my own alignment. I used a level and pinion angle finder to set camber, while doing that I spaced the wheels exactly the same distance back from the fender so caster is even and where it was before. Then well, you can see my straight edges for toe, nice thing is at ride height the steering is perfectly flat and parallel with the lower control arm.

Also my CTS console came in this week

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

those seats are going to look good in there

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

Figured I’d show everyone how I ran the lines. They went between the back seat and rear firewall just like the wiring does on one side, then along the sill plates. Special part is coming through the firewall. I used 90 degree bulkhead fittings so the line under the wheel well and in the car are separate and can be easily plumbed into if there is ever a failure somewhere. I sure do like using AN vs push lock

https://youtu.be/oabAJXSI6CI

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

Today update gets pictures with few words

OBS Chevy truck air damn
And 2015 Cadillac ATS seats

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

Still have to bolt the bottom in place, and trim the rear package tray to fit. But it’s gonna work out just right. More caddy parts for the win

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

those seats look so comfortable

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

They’re ok. Taking some getting used to having a seat with support again. When I removed the old bench it had 4 broke springs

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

This happened

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

Been fighting a starting issue. First start everytime under operating temp. At operating temp if it sits less than 15-20 minutes it would turn slow at first like a dead battery and then crank second, third, or fifth time. Acted like it had a weak battery, heat soaked starter, or a ton of resistance in the wire.

Well anywho let’s say now my main lead goes to the starter solenoid on the fender and then a separate lead to the starter versus the starter being the distribution point.

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

Small update to the trans. Figured out how to make the tap up tap down shift function work. Going to install it into the console and fingers length when I mount it.
Love how the gen4 with the 6speed rev matches automatically on downshifts

https://youtube.com/shorts/3kSGQHoehI0?feature=share

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

So my upgraded brakes got a caliper upgrade. It would already lock up the brakes but now the contact area on the rotor is better and well they just look better.

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

First off, great build and cool to see you doing everything yourself. Just read through the entire thread. I’ve got a ‘62 vert I’m getting ready to start on with a LS7… how’d you get the 6l80e and driveshaft to fit without tunnel mods? Any info is helpful.

Re: 1965 Lincoln, need I say more?
 

Replied to you PM before seeing this but I did just think of something. If you want to run a double cardan you must start with a 4WD 6L80e(90 won’t work).

The 6L80 4WD output shaft is the same spline as a 4L80E or many transfer cases. So I used a bolt on yoke for one of those like the off road guys. Being my shaft is 2 piece it already has a slip in the back section. Then I put the 2WD tailhousing(Camaro I think) in a lathe and cut down as much as I could to where the seal would still press all the way back in.
That made the housing I think 5/16-3/8” shorter. Next I drilled and tapped the output shaft for a 9/16 bolt which is fine because it has zero sheer force, only keeps the yoke pulled to the output shaft. Lastly I installed the yoke tightening the bolt until the seal almost touched. Measured the gap between the yoke and output shaft then made an aluminum spacer so I could tighten it up and it be bottomed out.

Oh forgot I also put the yoke on the lathe and radiused the edge where the slip transfers to the casting to make sure the seal didn’t get torn as it rotated.

Not exactly bolt on, but with friends with the right tools mine bolts on.

Only two picture I could locate. Top of the floor a hammer fixed, then the center of the output shaft you can see the factory shallow hole I drilled and tapped.