Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Crazy. Thankfully, this isn't a 100-point concours resto big block Cheyenne super. I can deal with the wrong color and welding up the hole to save $189 :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice score on the high hump, I paid around $100.00 for mine and I thought that was pretty good compared to the current going rates I'm seeing, but $11 is crazy :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

What a deal on the hump. Even if you don't need it, you could sell it to someone else at a good price and make money...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's my kind of score! :metal:
I paid like $20 at my local pull a part for one, I thought it was a steal. My hats off to ya.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Very nice find, gringo. Totally jealous!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I was in Utah @ a VW show a few weeks ago, saw Dave.... The word is there's a c10 build @ kindigit design. . just saying.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

great deal and nice repair work = great value/money saved. I paid like $70 for my high hump and it has a small dent/crease near the bottom to bang out.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks guys, shame I had to burn my good luck on a junky old truck part :lol:
Oooooh... Hopefully it makes it into this season. I'll be honest, I hadn't seen any of their shows/work until that caddy. I'm playing catch-up now. I know not everyone likes them, but they put out some nice cars.

Snapped this pic of the truck tonight after I parked the Blazer. I haven't actually seen it in 3 weeks, since it was under a tarp while I was working rust repair. Forgot how much I like looking at this thing--and how much I'm looking forward to installing the coilovers :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm in a similar situation, just curious what swayed you to the drop member instead of the wide ride? I'm torn between the two. Both are great products.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, a few things:

- I was looking for the least "supporting mods", mild DM offered that (toss this out the window now, with the v7, but should still be manageable)
- I had some "in-store credit" with PB
- I have been doing business with Nate and Co a looong time
- A few negative reviews from folks who have installed NL (only of the install itself, performance/ride seems to review well)

Honestly, it's just what I was comfortable with. That, and Dave Porter put up with an inordinate amount of ridiculous technical questions, waffling, and general tomfoolery from me. That alone is worth the sale :lol:

I figure you can't go wrong either way, just find what appeals to/makes sense to you

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Can you elaborate on this part some? What's the differences between the v6 and v7 that should be manageable and what are the supporting mods?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

V7 moved the rack down, so no frame notches and the motor stays closer to stock position.

Supporting mods include, but are not limited to: inner fenders, hood hinges, trans hump, trans crossmember, exhaust, shifter linkage, electric fans, battery relocation, etc. Lots I'm sure I've forgotten that has to change when moving the engine/trans/suspension dramatically from stock positioning. The mild/lvl 1 version would have been the optimal choice for lessening the burden of these additional requirements. I just can't seem to resist the urge to go lower--I blame this forum :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Exactly! I'll say it for you Chris. This forum ROCKS!

Lol

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

:agree:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Have you thought much about what you'll do for the bed floor? Raise the entire floor?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It's raised 3" already. Remains to be seen if I'll need to use that space

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm thinking of becoming a fortune teller, because I feel that you WILL need to use that space! :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hmmmm... Now you've got me thinking :lol:

Did a little lowering today, of the seat. Took 2" out of the mounts and it sits sooooo much better now. It's like I'm actually sitting 'in' the truck, instead of 'on' it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ahhh..... 88-98 bench. I feel they allow more legroom as well vs 67-72's.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yes, much thinner back and none of the bounciness of the stocker. One of the better cheap/easy mods I've done to this truck

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Totally agree on the 2'' drop.
Did you angle it any more than the stock specs or just straight down two inçhes?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

And I thick a tilt wheel in mandatory with the seat bracket modification

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just a straight 2", but I bolted to the stock front holes in the pan, which have a little (1"?) rise, so there's some tilt (gangsta lean)
Funny, the Blazer has factory tilt, and I end up settting it comfortably at straight...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the insight. I did not realize the v7 lowered the rack and did away with the frame notches.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I did not either, at first. Helped sway my decision to go with the v7 over the mild. Doesn't seem well-publicized--I think it would be a big selling point for many, as it seems folks are turned off by the welding required with rack notches. I found the info on a random post on instagram and confirmed with Dave via email