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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
You could have bought me one of those locks. Does it have a key? How much?:sumo: I like the old truck too. You can't buy that paint job.:lol:Well maybe you can. I'm sure for enough $$$ someone could paint it to look like that.
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nice scores Alan,
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:smoke: Nice shots, Alan - that hose crimper is just plain sick.
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There is a promo on fuel tanks here on the board that can be seen HERE. I'm trying to get my measurements right. The 2nd crossmember from the rear is angled in the frame. A 19" tank (front to back) will not fit. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC01926.jpg |
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whats that a miata header?
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Truck is lookin good Alan.
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:agree: I'm jealous that I don't have time to work on mine. :waah:
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Alan just cut that crossmember out and get the tank you want.
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no, the one that wont let you use the 19Gal tank, just move it a little or cut it out and make your own crossmember to fit.
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Hey Allen, I have seen a bunch of folks with the 67-72's remove the rear cross-brace, and make a new cross-brace at the very end of the frame. That should give you the clearance you need.
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Removing the crossmember is a great idea. I should have thought about all of this before painting the frame. He said he could make the tank 18" instead of 19".
I had a deal in the works on my Miata to sell it, but it didn't happen. So it looks like parts are on hold again. :sumo: |
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Looks great Alan...
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Alan, do you use anything special for painting the brake drums and calipers?
Been a while since I did any and way back when (early 70s) it was just rustolium, but it needed redone a lot to look nice. |
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Those hose crimpers look pricey. But nice. I've used ones like those before, and they work great. Practice first. :lol:
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i wish i had access to a paint booth
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Nostalgic Air had these fittings for the heater hoses that use the fittings that are on the AC. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...C/DSC01939.jpg Fittings installed. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...C/DSC01943.jpg AC and new compreesor block fittings installed. If you order one of these blocks make sure you get the correct one for your compressor. Suction port is marked on the back side of the compressor. It was confusing to me because the suction side was on Lt hand side (driver), but the part discription says right suction. I couldn't figure that out. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...C/DSC01942.jpg Was going to install the front calipers, but discovered I was missing something...............................Anti rattle clip. I can't find them any where. They should be with my old front caliper hoses. More looking tomorrow. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC01944.jpg Here is the part number for the dust cap. My rotors are for a 72. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC01948.jpg |
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If I knew the crimp tool would pay for itself I would buy one. $180 is a good deal, but only for myself I don't think it would be worth it.
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I forgot to tape up these bushings. Had to clean the paint off of them. They are suppose to move freely. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC01953.jpg Lt side assymbled http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSC01955.jpg I remember taking this off of the frame, but can't remember what it is for. I believe it was part of the automatic shift linkage. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC01958.jpg |
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Yes that is correct. It bolts to the frame straight across from the selector shaft in the trans. It holds one end of the linkage that comes down from the column. LilRed66 posted some pics of how the assembly goes together not long ago. I just don't remember in who's thread.....
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I thought I would check out my switches that came in my American Auto wire kit. When the flat side is lined up with the flat of the impala dash the key is not straight up and down. I cut a new flat on the cylinder and it lines up now. Not sure 100% yet cause I have to cut a spacer for the cylinder. The nut wont tighten down all of the way it bottoms out. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...l/DSC01969.jpg Installed the H/L switch and it comes with the nice billet knob, but I perfer the Impala knob. It will look more vintage and will match the wiper switch out of the Impala. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...l/DSC01970.jpg I want to run a hard line from the pump to the carb. Anybody have any pics of the way they or someone else did it with a serpentine? Also what fitting was used on the carb. Right now it is a banjo fitting pointing to the back of the engine. I'd like to remove that fitting and get the proper threaded one so it can be hard lined. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC01971.jpg http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC01973.jpg As you can probably tell by now plumbing is not one of my strong points. I'm trying to figure out this port coming from the pump. I read somewhere to measure the inside of the threads which= .559 then subtract .250 which means it is 1/4" inverted flare. I measured inside the flare and it also measured 1/4". I tried screwing in a 5/16" fuel line that I used on my 55 a few weeks ago and it is too small. I would think it is a 3/8" line for a V8. I'm so confussed. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC01972.jpg I'm also trying to figure out the routing of the AC lines. Pics needed if you have any that might fit this description. In the pic I have the fittings pointing to the front. Im thinking of running these lines down right behind the fan shroud. I will try my luck with running as much hard line as possible. I'll have the flex lines to the compressor due to movement and also at the radiator support area. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...C/DSC01974.jpg My thoughts are to run the AC and heater lines in the frame rail and come up under where the floor board and firewall meet. I will be using this bulkhead fitting in the floor next to the kick panel. It's just sitting there for the pic, it will actually be up closer to the vent. Plans are bound to change as things progress. I just want it to look neat and well thought out. :haha: BTW The other brake caliper is on and done. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...C/DSC01977.jpg |
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The output on your fuel pump is 3/8" inverted flare. You can buy a fitting that replaces the banjo fitting on the carb that will accept a 3/8" inverted flare. I recently looked up one for a Holley on Summit's site and I remember seeing ones for the Edelbrocks also. As for routing the line with the serpentine setup, I have no idea on that. Keep in mind that you will need to plumb in a fuel filter in there as well.
On my Suburban, I didn't utilize the frame bracket for the transmission shifter either. I just ran a rod from the column down to a bracket I fabbed that bolted to the trans selector shaft. It works just fine.....no problems in 120,000+ miles. |
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On the fuel line: what I do first is use a thick piece of bale wire and bend it various ways till I get the route, and shape I want.
when you are done you will have a good pattern to use to figure out your marks for the bends. hopefully then you only have to do the tube once. the route I envision from your pic, hugs the front of the block and comes up on the outside corner of the valve cover, then it runs right next to the front edge of the valve cover behind the a/c pump, rounds the corner and runs along the `valve cover intake edge to the carb. |
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January 2010 issue of Classic Trucks had a good write up of doing an AC installation. He kept the lines hidden as much as possible. Might give you some ideas.
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As always Nice work Allen....Thanks for the info and pics.
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As far as the filter goes. Can I just put the filter down on the rail to clean up the engine? If I'm persuaded to put one between the pump and carb, I'll get one that looks decent. Are the Russell inline filters any good? If so, I'm sure I can just get some AN line nuts to use on this 3/8 line or is there a filter I could use that uses the inverted flare? I've seen filters on late model cars that used an inverted flare, but were ugly and a little to big for this application. Good reassurance on the shift linkage. Quote:
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I tried to bend the fuel line the way I wanted it to go. It didn't lay the exact way I thought it would, but still turned out OK so far. I'll fab up a bracket to support and stabilize it around the AC compressor. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC01978.jpg |
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:metal: Fuel line looks like factory, Alan. Picture detail is perfect.
This is still one of the best threads on the site and I always look forward to catching up and re-reading previous posts. Mac. :chevy: |
Re: Project Vitamin C-10
Alan
Your fuel line looks good. It does look like it is touching the valve cover in the pic, is it? I would think that you would want some clearance around the line to keep the temp of the fuel in the line down some...Just a thought. Keep up the great work. It is because of you I started back on mine, progress is slow, it turns out that I have more sheetmetal work on the cab and doors then I expected. I will work on the running gear first. You have been a great motivator for me. |
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The line is not finished yet. When it is there will be enough room to remove the valve cover without much interferrance. I still have a little tweaking to do and also need to fab a bracket for it to help hold it in place. Thanks for the look out. ;) |
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I've never kept ya'll in suspense about anything.................things are changing. Here is the suspense. I went to Moultrie swap meet for a gas tank and brake lines. Nobody brought any with them, which I understand why now. So anyway the money was burning a hole in my pocket. :lol: I ordered some things, they are shipping out tomorrow. I'm sad tho because I don't have a gas tank or brake lines.
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I know that feeling. Order what I think I want/need, but then wish i had done something else. Oh well someday it will move without me pushing it. :lol:
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hey alan your not blue anymore
so you got me interested what did you buy :fro: |
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