Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
any one know of a good brake shop , around the area i need to do my brake swap and i need it done right so thats is why i am not attempting to do it my self hhhaha
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
1 Attachment(s)
Playing around the DMV site and was amazed this shows as available. Of course any background goes, but this looked so right. If you want them go for it, there is going to be only one set.
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Ttt for a paint shop around us ... The insurance is making me lay the wood In my bed so i said wtf mine as well paint it hahah I'm going to be living in my truck after it's done . So if you guys see me sleeping my truck stop by and say hi
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
TTT for cruising or get togethers in Orange County. I have a 71 c10 ochre longbed and i saw another one today in Fullerton. Anyone know who that is?
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
its AAA i told the guy over the phone and he said no problem then he calls me and is like if i dont fix were going to drop you and charge you a cancellation fee .... damm insurance companys
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Wow. That's insane
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
AAA sucks they have dropped the ball on my insurance to many times. One time they didnt cancel my policy even though i went into the office to take care or it. Another time they didnt get medical on my full coverage, caught that when we went to use it. Had to use a lawyer to straighten it out. They wouldnt write a full coverage policy on my 74 at a ten grand value. Im done with them.
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
It was hard enough to find a company that would insure my truck that I could use it as a DD .. AAA was the cheapest , the dude told me what every I wanted to hear over the phone to get me buy the insurance . Now they got me where they want me lol
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
I'm using Farmers , no hassles , daily driver .
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Hi guys, I have a quick question. Which tube do I hook up my vacuum gauge to? I have an inline 6 with a carb. But I don't know which model I have. I found a diagram for the vacuum lines but am not sure which one I need to use to measure the vacuum.
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
LA Craigslist: 1973 Chev Cheyenne Super 20 Camper Special 4 x 4 (Oak Park)
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...406470920.html |
Re: Vacuum Gauge
Easy-Peasy ! .
It depends on what carby you have , unhook the various small vacuum hoses until you find one with a strong vacuum @ idle ~ when you disconnect the correct one , it'll whistle loudly , the engine will briefly speed up then die ~ connect it there , using a 'T' fitting and some new hose , 99 % of the time to old hoses are stiff and leaky ~ if any vacuum hose is easy to pull off it is BAD and making your engine suffer . Let me know if you want to learn how to use this gauge to adjust the carby's idle mixture . -Nate Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
I just switched to Poway General who writes for mercury and hagarty. Customer service was great. They insure the 67 and 06 with no questions, Farmers couldnt touch there price for the equal coverage. Really happy with them.
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
I'm using Farmers Ins. Co. here in Cali , not hassles atall , not the cheapest but they bind me with no worries .
|
Re: Vacuum Gauge
Quote:
|
Re: Vacuum Gauge
Quote:
Hey that last bit about the easy to pull off hose may be true. The hose to my PCV valve is pretty easy to pull off the manifold port. I think that may be causing my engine to run really rough. I have to replace my EGR valve possibly as that may be bad too. I'm just trying to figure out why my engine is just having issues and running really rough before it warms up. |
Re: Vacuum Hoses
Any time any vacuum hose is easily removed , it needs replacing straightaway as it's leaking vacuum and this is always a bad thing .
Periodically you should give any hose under the hood a slight tug when the engine is off ~ if it easily slips off without twisting , it is bad and needs replacing . Most folks never give the various vacuum hoses any thought until it rots completely away and falls off ~ this is a serious mistake as your engine doesn't like vacuum leaks of any sort . EGR valves are a mixed bag ~ older models tend to have a vacuum source to them as soon as the engine starts and this causes driveability problems , mostly flat spots off idle (hesitation) . If you don't want to disable the EGR , choose a vacuum source that only provides a vacuum signal off idle . -Nate Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
To use a vacuum gauge to adjust the carby ;
First you *must* have the timing set properly to 0° ~ 6° BTDC @ idle of 700 RPM's or less , then insure the spark plugs are gapped to at least .040" (.060" if HEI) and the center electrode's shoulders are sharply squared off , if they're rounded it'll loose power . Connect the vacuum gauge to the port below the carby so it has a constant vacuum signal , start and warm up the engine fully . Set the idle speed to 1,000 RPM and s - l - o - w - l - y turn the idle mixture screw in as you keep an eagle eye on the vacuum gauge ~ in time it will begin to rise , as you get the screw further in the gauge's needle will begin to flicker and if you turn it in further the engine will begin to shake and miss ~ Gently play with it to get a feel for how the needle responds to your fiddling with the mixture screw and then turn it to where the needle gets it's highest , steady reading , then back it out maybe a 1/16th of a turn and let it idle longer while you blow on your seriously burned fingers , I have no idea why the hell GM put the ding-dang mixture screw right there where it's easy to see but hard to access ~ I have a 3' long 1/8" flat bladed screw driver I use for just this job, gotta watch out the back end of the screw driver doesn't get caught in the P.S. belt . To recap : adjust the carby's mixture screw to get the gauge's highest _steady_ reading then back it off a tiny fraction and you're good to go ~ you can then fiddle the idle speed to suit if you want , 600 ~ 1,000 is the desired hot idle speed . Once the mixture is set and the idle speed is adjusted , do not touch the mixture screw again . If it stalls when cold started , the fast idle speed is adjusted by gently bending the vertical rod from the choke plate downwards , when the throttle is held open ~ at the bottom of the rod is a stepped fast idle plate that lifts as you gently bend the rod using two pairs of pliers ONLY AT THE PROVIDED BENDS ~ a little bit will do , don't be a jerk and pretzel the rod like Gas Station idiots do as they're impossible to find once you've ruined them . It's is critical that the stepped fast idle cam thing toches nothing when the choke is fully open ! . I hope this helps . |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Looking for a shop or some one to install my wood bed .. Don't have time to I have a week before my insurance cancells my policy , if it's not finished lol .
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
Can you just put a plastic liner on in the meantime? |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/member.php?u=112388 vegadesign he is a member |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
slap a piece of T1 11 siding in it and stain it will take an hour
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
I had a bed cover over it they went under it , there are jerks ! Bah !
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Any get togethers coming up ??
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
I am curious too.....
Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
On a side note....I have come across an extremely reasonable, experienced, glass installer in the Inland Empire. He is mobile and or you can come to him. He installed front windshield and rear hatch glass on my 72 Suburban in my driveway without a hitch. PM me if you would like his contact info.
Adam 951-544-0721 |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Ok, guys. I'm looking for opinions. I have my 250 inline 6 which now after getting the fuel line replaced from a steel line to a rubber fuel line, runs like crap. It's real shaky and has no power to move forward or reverse after it starts. It will eventually start to be able to move after it warms up but right out the gate, it's terrible. I don't know what was done to it by the mechanic but it wasn't running that bad prior. I don't want to take it back to him because I don't think he is too familiar with our type of trucks. I'm not sure if it's bad gas. It's been back firing sort of from the carb now too. Basically I shut it off and it still stutters and runs a little bit and then poof, dies out and smoke comes out of the air cleaner area and snorkel area.
I'm not sure if I should swap out the engine for a 350 sbc and get my trans sorted out as it's leaking a little bit. Or try to go with an LS swap. The only downer besides the money for an LS swap is that my truck is a '78 and has to have all the stupid CA smog stuff done to it so it's still smog legal. Do any CA guys who have a newer than '75 (I think that is the last year it can be smog free) LS swapped truck have any recommendations on SoCal smoggers? I want to go the most economic route and I know the LS isn't. But I figure maybe it might be worth while to spend the money on an LS swap for power and mpg and reliability than go SBC and low mileage. I can't do the swap myself as I don't consider myself that tech savvy enough to do it and it will take forever if I try to learn it myself. What would you guys do in my situation? Would you: A) Just check out what's going on with the I6 and rebuild if needed? (cheapest option I think) B)Do a newish SBC swap C) Go for the LS swap and build it up over some time since it's expensive. I do want to take my truck out to get stuff from the home improvement store or furniture runs if needed though, so it can't be down for too long. I wish I was taught general truck repairs when I was younger and I'm trying to learn as much as I can now but with 2 kids and having family time, it's a little difficult. |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
I got a smog guy if you needed
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
When's the last time it's had a real tune-up? Not the typical look around and think everything looks ok, a real tune-up. New plugs, wires, cap rotor, check for correct vac and mechanical advance operation. Carb rebuild and dial in. Those sixes are just about bullet proof. Have you done a leak down test?
As for an engine swap you need to go to the California DMV site and read up on engine swaps. I think you'll soon find out your best and most economical bet for an early smogger is to rebuild your six or get another six to replace it. |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
1 Attachment(s)
Hey guys I'm in riverside county
Looking to get this beauty up and running soon. ******** Keep missing the Jegs crate sale by a day Quote:
|
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
Try Summit, they sell the same crate engines. |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
To answer your question, Yes swap it out for a 350. Some of the guys here, or maybe on craigslist might have one running. But you seem to keep having issues with the 250. And your model truck came with a 350, so the smog laws will apply but no issues because you changed your engine. |
Re: SoCal checkin' in
Quote:
One need light freshening up and will be a short or long block Short- No intake, no Water pump, no carb etc. Long- Edelbrock performer intake, with water pump, and a Holly 650 carb (fresh rebuild) Second engine is a numbers matching 350 out of a 67-69 Camaro with heads. 350 Turbo with shift kit PM me for prices, if you want either one built let me know and I will price it and can deliver to you in Rside. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:08 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com