Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man. Magnaflows are hanging off the end of the collectors as a temporary exhaust. Hopefully it will maintain some of that aggressiveness once the pipes are run all the way out the back.

Bedtime for blue...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Slice n dice... So what is your actual ride height at the front cab mount ?
Beautiful stance.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, pretty happy with how she sits. There’s right at 4” under the front, 4.75” under the rear cab mount, since I like a little ‘hotrod rake’.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Lookin gooooood!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I have to agree with SCOTI, lookin real gooood!:metal:

How are you liking the new trans? Any concerns or adjustments needed or is it perfect straight out da crate shiftin like butta?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti!
Thanks, seems to be good so far. I haven’t had an opportunity to truly test it, but beating on it a little around the neighborhood, I’m very happy with it. Definitely needs a shorter lever, though...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just went through the entire thread! WOW great work. I'm just starting my build. This has given me so many ideas my wallet is gonna hurt! Wife says thanks!! lol

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha, you’re welcome. If not for this forum, my truck would look entirely different than it does now, and not in a good way. Just paying it forward :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I hear that man... I wouldn't have made it half as far as I am so far and I'm nowhere close to your build. This forum has led me to so many resources I'm so grateful.

Gringo your truck is sounding good, sitting good, and rolling good. Thanks for giving back man.


:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm glad you didn't crush that beer...with the bumper. Truck looks and sounds great.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sounds great and looks great!
I can't wait to be shifting thru the gears in mine.
I did a mid-shift conversion on mine, and just by feel (on the bench) the shifter throws are a bit shorter than in the rear position. Maybe so you can have a longer lever and not end up with a huge throw.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Much appreciated. This is why we’re here. You guys get me, others maybe notsomuch :lol:
Thanks for the kind words. No beers were harmed in the making of the photo, afterwards however...
Thanks man. Yours looks like a cool project. That mid-shift kit is definitely taller than the stock shifter, likely due to the short-shift pivot. I think mine will be ok with a different lever, though I may still do a Pro-5.0 shifter if I feel it’s needed.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

New shift lever installed, much better. It’s 6” shorter, bent back toward the seat, and over toward the driver. Throw is waaay better than before and falls right in my hand :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

So all this time has gone by, how do you like your radio? And do you have courtesy lights installed in foot wells? If so whatcha got?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Unknown. It looks nice enough, and installed relatively easily, though I did modify it to suit my personal desire to have the knobs closer to the dash. As far as sound, I don’t think I’ll know for a while, it is very low on the list of priorities, heck, the only wiring in the truck right now is the bare minimum needed to run the engine. Same for footwell lighting, but if I do it will undoubtedly be a factory-type setup.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Made a change to the engine setup. I found a screaming deal on this FAST 4-bbl throttle body, which uses all GM sensors, making it plug-and-play with the Holley Terminator-X. It did take a little bit of playing with the tune to get the idle to cooperate, but overall I am match happier with this setup versus the 90mm stock-style. Bonus: the throttle cable and air cleaner fit just as they would with a carb, which is to say without (much) modification :chevy:

The air cleaner needs paint and I think I’ve changed my mind (again) about the oil fill and knock sensor placement. They are an eyesore and must be eliminated...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good Chris! I'm liking the direction you're headed with the new look of the engine! And every time I see your truck, it makes me want to go drive Brutus, and stab a T56 into my GTO!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wow, I've missed a lot. For some reason, I'm not getting emails from this forum anymore.

What's the number on the new stick?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yeah me too man, then I found out you have to pay money for the email alerts! lol.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man. You have nice rides for sure
It’s a Hurst 7438, bolt-on 69 Camaro style. Sitting just about perfect. How’s that Core shifter?
Well, dang...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Really like the truck Chris. U went thru several changes with the truck along the way. Thanks 4 a few ideas I have for mine. My question to u is the holley injection u have. Knowing u are more than stock, do u think /feel the single plane design is giving something up to the ls truck/car intakes down low? There isnt alot out there that i can find on this. The few articles I have read have the motor in more race than street trim. Just wanted ur thoughts.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Working on a couple things here and there, this afternoon I finally got an AC compressor mounted. There are lots of types of mounts available for the LS these days, but I wanted a low mount, and that leaves only a few options. I settled on the Dirty Dingo bracket setup, as it provides the narrowest measurement and most clearance to the framerail.

Unfortunately, as with most things I try to “bolt on” it needed modification, as the tensioner was trying to occupy the same space as the steering rack hard lines. I thought about a few different ways of fixing the issue, including re-routing the line, moving the rack, or trying a different bracket, but settled on just moving the tensioner over about 3/4”. I ended up building a doubler bracket out of 1/4” aluminum plate, as there wasn’t enough meat on the bracket to drill the new holes as delivered.

All seems to be well with (minor) clearance all around, just need to find the correct length belt. 5 pound sack...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It’s really packed in there, but it all fits, and is hidden away nicely :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Appreciate the compliments, they’re never really done...

The short runner/single plane intake is almost certainly losing a few hp/lbs-ft low in the rev range, and the cam exacerbates the issue, but I’m willing to make that sacrifice for the look/sound I’m after. Really all comes down to what your priorities are. If it becomes an issue, there’s always forced induction, more cubic inches, or deeper rear gears to help make up for it :burnout:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The truck looks great, Chris....amazing transformation....its come a long way!:cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice fix. Didn't your bracket come with a belt? Mine did. I can look at the part number later if you need it. Let me know.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man! Still lots more to go...
No belt with mine, but I bought bracket only, not the kit. From reading, it sounds like the DD compressor is a knockoff and I found a good deal on a new Sanden. I did finally get a belt on it after measuring twice and only two trips to the LAPS :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It was a look a like as of a couple years ago anyhow. I had one and sent it back because of it.

Your engine turned out awesome. :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Look at you and your fancy cool air maker thingy.... :ito:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just checking in...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man, pretty happy with how it’s turning out. Just a few minor tweaks and I’ll consider it “done”.
Haha, way too much head-scratching spent getting the silly thing in there...
I’m still chipping away. Here it is sitting in the rear bumpstops to check clearance for the driveshaft, wheel tubs, and over-the-axle exhaust. Kinda makes me want to “air-out” the front just to see what it would look like:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You know you can swap out those pesky coil-overs for Shockwaves, right? ;) :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No bags right now, this was supposed to be a simple suspension upgrade :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Simple...... Pfff.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Going from a 7.5” ride height to 4 will close some gaps.
Will you have to run your tunnel all the way to the hump ?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It was supposed to just be a simple coilover upgrade with mild dropmember and a NoLimit rear kit, until Nathan Porter got in my ear. He was right, I would have never been happy with the mild setup. Add the LS swap into the mix and it’s gotten out of control. Glad I went this way, but the snowball is in full effect...
Definitely have lots of things competing for the same space when you get this low. The driveshaft tunnel runs from the rib behind the high hump to the rear cab wall. The hump itself will also need clearancing for the quite large TKO to sit at the correct driveline angle.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and here it is all complete. Fully seam welded, etch primed, seam sealed, and undercoated. I used the factory-style brush technique on the sealer, though if I had it to do again, I’d probably just use my finger to smooth it. Thankfully it will be buried under insulation, carpet, and a seat :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nicely done. Even on the 64-66's the floor needs clearance on a 1pc. driveshaft. I also had to make the trans-hump a 1pc deal vs. the 64-66 2pc set-up.
Similar but different. I used flat sheet to form my parts since it was easier to source locally....

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti. Yours looks very-well executed. I started with a pre-fab tunnel, but only ended up using the very top couple inches of it. A 2 piece shaft might have been easier than all of this. Just glad to be done with it, honestly, so now I can move on to head-scratching the high-hump panel.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Agreed, a 2pc driveline would be 'easier'.

But, after discussion w/Nathan, I prefer the budget/simplicity of the 1pc. as well as the potential additional costs toward minimizing driveline related vibrations (which are a serious Pet Peeve of mine).

Advice I'd give for others reading is to definitely check clearance under your seat if building/tweaking the trans tunnel. Although I planned for it, mine is close.... but clears the frame (Buddy Buckets).