Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Looks Awesome.
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With the driveshaft tunnel complete, it was time to move on to the high hump. First order of business: fill the Muncie shifter hole. That was the easy part...
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Now, tackling the transmission protrusion has proved to be a bit more complicated. I started by building a tunnel section forward of the floor brace. This will serve as the flange for the bolt in hump to seal against. (Sorry for the blurry pic)
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Then built a kick-out to cover the rear of the shifter base. Just need to figure a way to tie it all together now.
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Looks good from the image :cool:
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Same shape just longer. Notch it to go over the higher floor section? Just an idea to keep the trans cover all the same shape. |
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Ladies and gentlemen, meet Franken-hump. Everything fits underneath with (a little) room to spare. Now just needs lots more grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, paint. It just might be close enough for a stock style carpet to fit. ...or I might be seeing if the wife’s sewing machine can handle carpet bindings...
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I like it. Very creative. I bet your getting excited to drive this thing again!:metal:
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I'm betting 'high-hump' carpet will cover it fine. The area would be right in front of the seat edge so I bet that will help camouflage any irregularity.
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Nice job! I agree with Scoti, I think the stock carpet will fit close enough with the seat right there.
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Looking good!! When you are done welding that high hump, you will hardly be able to tell it has been modified.
As per you having to raise your bench seat 2". Will you still fit in the truck with that raised up? I know I would not be able to fit in my truck if I raised the seat even 1" (6'2" tall). Just something to think about. |
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I'm not familiar with the 88-98 bench that you are using, but is there a way to clearance the back bar of the seat frame enough to allow you to not have to raise it? Maybe dimple the tube with a BFH?
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I have already sectioned the side mounts, so it sits waaaay low, which is the only reason this is even an issue. Bumping it up a touch shouldn’t be a big deal. The spacers should disappear into the carpet/insulation. |
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Awesome progress on your truck Chris! Just getting caught up on the manual tranny install. VERY COOL!
I know it's tough to get out and drive with the virus and all but I'm wondering about your suspension setup and how you like it? Have you had it on the highway? two lane running 65 yet? Just curious how it handles bumps and hickups in the road? I feel like I want to install coil overs on my truck just not sure yet. I will remain static either way. I may just have to raise it up a bit..... I'm tired of hitting asphalt with my stock control arms. stay safe out there |
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Definitely do your homework if you decide to do a bolt on coilover kit. I’ve looked at a bunch and most don’t offer much in the way of ground clearance, and some of them are actually worse than stock. Tubular arms alone that will accommodate stock type coil springs will buy you an extra inch or so, mainly due to the smaller diameter bushings. Quote:
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Stay safe out there bud. |
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Out back, I really like the adjustability of the QA1 setup and the outboard mounting of the coilovers is inherently more stable and allows for longer shocks than an inboard setup. |
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StitchMaster. Beautiful approach for that transition.
Are you using rolocs for finish work ? |
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certainly a lot of creativity. thanks for sharing. roger
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Every now and again I have to re-attach the dangling wires barely twisted together in the passenger side floorboard from one of these "I'll get to it later" style fixes. I do like it when guys post their not so great work. Seeing someone else's sub-par work gives me the warm fuzzies, it makes me feel a little less Sanford and Son-ish.;) |
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How much clearance are you allowing around the tightest places for your driveshaft? I'm in the middle of this now also and not sure if I should trim my cab floor also. It looks like I've got about 3/4 of an inch after I install my driveshaft.
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Hump is done. Not metal-worked to perfection, but doesn’t need to be. I got her finish welded and knocked down smooth, shot with a coat of self-etch on the top and undercoated the bottom, then bolted her in with a bead of window weld cord to seal. Looks and fits like it belongs and has taken the first layer of sound deadener. :chevy:
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Well done.
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Nice!
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Awesome!
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I moved to the engine bay for a bit while I wait for more sound deadener and new carpet to arrive in the mail. I decided that I wanted to delete the knock sensors and oil filler cap, simply because they were an eyesore to me. I used a smooth valley cover, and drilled a hole for a fixed-orifice PCV, which more closely mimics the late model LS engines from the factory, but kept it hidden behind the intake. Need to paint my air cleaner and put everything back together and I think I may actually be done with this engine (for now), maybe?... |
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You're gonna confuse all sorts of folks when you pop the hood. Just when I'm convinced your LS is the coolest... you make it cooler. :smoke:
What kind of deadener are you ordering and where? I need to get some more too. So far I'm leaning toward Noico 80 mil on Amazon... 36 sq. ft. for 67 bucks |
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