Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I could have used that advice! :lol: Looks like I’ll be raising my seat a 1/2” or so to accommodate the tunnel. 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound sack...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks Awesome.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Could you share which Sanden compressor you used? Never mind I think I found it. Thanks

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks!
SD7B10, model 7176, if you’re still looking

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

With the driveshaft tunnel complete, it was time to move on to the high hump. First order of business: fill the Muncie shifter hole. That was the easy part...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Now, tackling the transmission protrusion has proved to be a bit more complicated. I started by building a tunnel section forward of the floor brace. This will serve as the flange for the bolt in hump to seal against. (Sorry for the blurry pic)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Then built a kick-out to cover the rear of the shifter base. Just need to figure a way to tie it all together now.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks good from the image :cool:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Could you use the back half of another high jump and just lengthen the original cover?
Same shape just longer.
Notch it to go over the higher floor section?
Just an idea to keep the trans cover all the same shape.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, getting there
That was my original plan (or one of them). Problem is that it starts to occupy the same space as the front of the bench seat. Still scratching my head, we’ll see where it ends up...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ladies and gentlemen, meet Franken-hump. Everything fits underneath with (a little) room to spare. Now just needs lots more grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, weld, grind, paint. It just might be close enough for a stock style carpet to fit. ...or I might be seeing if the wife’s sewing machine can handle carpet bindings...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it. Very creative. I bet your getting excited to drive this thing again!:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm betting 'high-hump' carpet will cover it fine. The area would be right in front of the seat edge so I bet that will help camouflage any irregularity.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice job! I agree with Scoti, I think the stock carpet will fit close enough with the seat right there.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It’s modern art :lol: So ready to be driving. I need to build my punch list, the end is near, I can feel it.
Fingers crossed, guys; I’m hoping it isn't too far off. I’m thinking with it being under the seat, maybe a little steam and some creative insulation application will be enough to make it work. This is honestly way less intrusive than it looked in my brain :crazy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good!! When you are done welding that high hump, you will hardly be able to tell it has been modified.
As per you having to raise your bench seat 2". Will you still fit in the truck with that raised up? I know I would not be able to fit in my truck if I raised the seat even 1" (6'2" tall). Just something to think about.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, that’s the idea, like GM did it, but different. The seat should only have to come up a half inch, and only on the rear mounts. So really it’s only tilting forward just a little bit. I sat in it with a couple of 3/4” pieces of wood under the legs and it seemed ok. You are right though, not much wiggle room in there for us tall guys.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm not familiar with the 88-98 bench that you are using, but is there a way to clearance the back bar of the seat frame enough to allow you to not have to raise it? Maybe dimple the tube with a BFH?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Probably, though unfortunately the seat bottom upholstery wraps over and is attached to that particular beam.

I have already sectioned the side mounts, so it sits waaaay low, which is the only reason this is even an issue. Bumping it up a touch shouldn’t be a big deal. The spacers should disappear into the carpet/insulation.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Awesome progress on your truck Chris! Just getting caught up on the manual tranny install. VERY COOL!

I know it's tough to get out and drive with the virus and all but I'm wondering about your suspension setup and how you like it? Have you had it on the highway? two lane running 65 yet? Just curious how it handles bumps and hickups in the road?
I feel like I want to install coil overs on my truck just not sure yet. I will remain static either way. I may just have to raise it up a bit..... I'm tired of hitting asphalt with my stock control arms. stay safe out there

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

One of the best things about aftermarket raised x-members (or pancaked OE units) is the additional ground clearance @ the lowered heights.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No real drive time on it yet, still lots to do before she’s road worthy. From the little bit I’ve driven around the neighborhood, it feels really good, but it’s tough to judge without a proper alignment, interior, exhaust, wiring, etc. People who have bagged dropmembers rave about the ride/drive—this should be a similar experience, I hope.

Definitely do your homework if you decide to do a bolt on coilover kit. I’ve looked at a bunch and most don’t offer much in the way of ground clearance, and some of them are actually worse than stock. Tubular arms alone that will accommodate stock type coil springs will buy you an extra inch or so, mainly due to the smaller diameter bushings.
Couldn’t agree more. This was one of the determining factors in wanting to do a crossmember versus arms only. Somewhere along the way, I lost sight of that and instead of moving everything up out of the way, I brought the whole truck down...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Truth. There needs to be a happy medium or you fight the same battle. I like trucks @ a 6/8 drop that have the uncompromised drivability of one @ stock height. The aftermarket x-members def help minimize the compromises.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for info, Chris. Right now, I'm on standbye with doing any upgrades. Just trying to get intel from people that have actually installed coil overs. I have a few friends locally that are enjoying theirs. However, they dropped a ton of cash on the parts...
Stay safe out there bud.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Take a look at the CPP front kit. They seem to have addressed the ground clearance problem that other coilover kits have. Typically, the coilover is long, due to construction using an upper and lower hat on the shock body, which forces the lower arm to have a pocket or bracket hanging down. CPP moves the upper spring hat to the crossmember, while keeping the lower adjustable hat on the shock body. Really it’s more like a strut setup than a traditional coilover, but takes care of the packaging dilemma handily.

Out back, I really like the adjustability of the QA1 setup and the outboard mounting of the coilovers is inherently more stable and allows for longer shocks than an inboard setup.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the information Chris. I will take a look at the CPP and QA1.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

StitchMaster. Beautiful approach for that transition.
Are you using rolocs for finish work ?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

certainly a lot of creativity. thanks for sharing. roger

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the compliments, I spent a while thinking on this one before somewhat luckily landing on this solution. For metal finishing, I use a combination of 3” cutoff wheel on a die grinder to knock the heads off of the beads, then 4.5” flap wheel on an angle grinder, to bring them flush with the surrounding metal, then a 6” sanding disc on a DA to make it all purty. Rolocs, die grinding stones, and hammer/dolly all play their role as well, depending on the shapes and angles.
Thanks Roger, I’ve learned most of what I know by watching others (many on this forum), which gives me the confidence to try new things. I hope by sharing that I can pass it on. Also makes me up my game, knowing people will be looking at my work. If not for posting here, this thing might be all bailing wire and duct tape :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's hilarious! I know what you mean, my daily driver has all kinds of half_fast "repairs"... why you ask?... because the problem was solved and no one has to look at it but me. :lol:

Every now and again I have to re-attach the dangling wires barely twisted together in the passenger side floorboard from one of these "I'll get to it later" style fixes.

I do like it when guys post their not so great work. Seeing someone else's sub-par work gives me the warm fuzzies, it makes me feel a little less Sanford and Son-ish.;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

How much clearance are you allowing around the tightest places for your driveshaft? I'm in the middle of this now also and not sure if I should trim my cab floor also. It looks like I've got about 3/4 of an inch after I install my driveshaft.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Bottom the suspension out completely & make sure the d.shaft doesn't contact anything. If it does, trim things back until it doesn't. I usually build things w/a 1/8" thick (yard stick) spacer to pad my clearances.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti, that sounds like solid advice. I was thinking I'd need at least an inch, but I like your plan better.;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hump is done. Not metal-worked to perfection, but doesn’t need to be. I got her finish welded and knocked down smooth, shot with a coat of self-etch on the top and undercoated the bottom, then bolted her in with a bead of window weld cord to seal. Looks and fits like it belongs and has taken the first layer of sound deadener. :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I buried mine on the bumpstops then allowed minimum 3/8” all around. I like a little bit of wiggle room and am saving space for a possible driveshaft safety loop. I think if you have 3/4” of space, you are way good.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well done.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Awesome!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks dudes!

I moved to the engine bay for a bit while I wait for more sound deadener and new carpet to arrive in the mail. I decided that I wanted to delete the knock sensors and oil filler cap, simply because they were an eyesore to me. I used a smooth valley cover, and drilled a hole for a fixed-orifice PCV, which more closely mimics the late model LS engines from the factory, but kept it hidden behind the intake.

Need to paint my air cleaner and put everything back together and I think I may actually be done with this engine (for now), maybe?...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You're gonna confuse all sorts of folks when you pop the hood. Just when I'm convinced your LS is the coolest... you make it cooler. :smoke:

What kind of deadener are you ordering and where? I need to get some more too. So far I'm leaning toward Noico 80 mil on Amazon... 36 sq. ft. for 67 bucks