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I used the Siless 80mil stuff too. I got it off Amazon. Mine looked a bit different than yours in the picture above. Mine had squares embossed on the foil side. I used a Noico metal roller to put mine down. The roller had a grooved pattern that left impressions in the foil to help show where you had rolled over the material.
So far it seems to work well, my son has been driving the truck with it installed, but no carpet and it has made a difference over the stock jute pad and carpet. |
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Lots of time spent doing things which amount to minor progress :waah: The Siless sound deadener arrived and laid out nicely; I covered the floor and rear cab wall and am saving a few sheets to apply inside the doors when I tear them apart for new seals. Still need to hit the whole business with the seam roller to make it permanent. Carpet soon???
Also spent an embarrassing amount of time cutting, bending, drilling, and painting a universal driveshaft safety loop to fit just behind the front u-joint. I don’t ever anticipate being fast enough to need one per NHRA standards, but it makes me feel better with the driveshaft spinning only inches beneath my ass... :burnout: |
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Haha, nicely done! The loop looks top notch.
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Killer job, the smooth valley cover makes a huge difference. Are you going to relocate the knock sensors or delete all together?
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Where did you end up mounting your Term X computer? I don’t remember seeing it anywhere.
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My thought is whatever is easiest.... to access.
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GringoLoco:
Thanks for sharing your build - the information and ideas from you and others really helps. Question: Assuming you're connected to the engine, how far does the Terminator X harness/ECM extend into the cab - or how much length do you have once past the firewall? Thx. |
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Thanks.
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Lotsa time, little progress. Finished press-rolling the sound deadener, then moved on to installing double-foil backed jute, then started laying some carpet. Cutting the little bits of insulation on the driver’s side of the firewall was tedious; not looking forward to laying the carpet in that area...
Good news is the high-hump carpet “fits” even with all of the floor modifications. Bad news is I think I want blue carpet instead. Hoping with a black bed floor, core support, inner fenders, and under-hood, that the black flooring will tie in better. :waah: |
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I like the black. But it's your truck. And a Beautiful one at that.
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The black will disappear once you get the rest of the interior in there. That being said, I’m going blue in Walter. :lol:
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Gringo & Niped..... Question for you both: How much 'resistance' do your PB arms have w/the Delrin bushings? I partially assembled one upper & was surprised w/how hard the arm was to cycle through the travel.
The bushings required more force than I expected to get them seated on the cross-shaft. I feel like the welding process tweaked the arm enough that its in a bind. Either of you note anything like what I'm describing? |
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The upper bushings spin freely on the arms cross- shaft. The upper bushings fit within the bushing 'cups' on the arm. Combine the two & now things dont align requiring them to be forced together. While waiting for some insight on the uppers today, I messed w/the drivers side lower. Of the 4 bushings I tried on the lower drivers arm, one slipped right in w/zero effort & had some 'wiggle'. A 2nd pushed in w/my palm (it had less 'wiggle'). The other 2 require more force (c-clamp) but seem like they'll seat as needed. I pulled the sleeve & bolt from the ART arm on the truck now & both seemed they had a proper fit within the Delrin bushings. I'll assemble & test installation fit to the DM of the lower arm tomorrow using the 2 easier to install of the 4 bushings. Not sure what my approach will be for the upper. It should go together & not be in a bind. I'm not going to settle for anything less. |
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I don’t remember having any issues, but it’s been a LONG time ago.
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So, this truck needs three, count ‘em three (3) shift boots. 1) to fit over the shifter itself to keep dirt and whatnot out, 2) to fit around the shifter base to keep dirt, rain, and whatnot out of the truck, and 3) to fit on top of the carpet and around the shifter handle to make it all look presentable.
Number one came with the transmission and number three will be a “stock” type oval boot. Number two required some creativity. I took a Mr. Gasket boot, cut off the top, flipped it upside down to fit around the shifter base, and bolted it to the floor. The boot itself is pretty decent quality, but the supplied ring and fasteners are a joke. I stuck 4 additional screws in it to help squish the boot into a reasonably sealed gasket. Excessive? Maybe, but it should help to keep the carpet dry... |
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Thankfully all that shenanigans disappears under the insulation, carpet, and inside boot (ordered a new one that’s hopefully not ripped and brown) :chevy:
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How are you securing boot #3?
Is each layer anchored to the floor? Looks clean! |
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Finished up the firewall insulation and carpeted covering, which was all I needed to final install the floor carpet. I couldn’t resist throwing the seat in for a look. It will need to come back out to body work and paint the brackets, which I cut/welded 2” out of and sloppily spray-bombed a while ago. Interior is too nice now and they need to be pretty too :waah:
New pedal pads and trim, new stainless door sill plates, and a new shift boot and ring bring it all together, and I also took some 1200 grit to my shift knob to knock the sheen off. I’m not 100% sold on the stock style shift boot, but I’m not sure what I would do instead; leather and billet just don’t seem like they belong here... |
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Don't worry though, someone knows someone that had one just like it. ;) |
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Looks perfect.
Less is more and yours is super clean. Most don’t realize the amount of work it takes to make things look stock. Love the entire truck! |
Very nice Chris!
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Looking very nice, Chris. You need to get that thing finished up so that after all this Covid-19 mess is over we can get together for some talk and adult alcoholic beverages!
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Oh My!!! That’s quite a list, man! But I have to admit, I wish I was that close in Walter.
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Looks Fantastic!!
I agree with the shifter boot. Not quite sure if it works or not. Have you thought about something like this one from Jegs, and then dialing the shine on it back?? https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/62382/10002/-1 |
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Getting the Hill’s Rod and Custom (now Stoner Speed Shop) inner fenders installed, and boy, lemme tell ya, what a pain. But, man do they complete the “stock, but not” theme in the engine bay. Still lots more to do to get everything fitting perfectly on this side before moving to the driver’s, which should go a little smoother now that I have some clue of how to attack it. Bonus: the billet hinges fit with plenty of room to spare :cool:
Undecided on the cut fender edge treatment, I’m tossing around leave as-is, weld in a rolled edge, or use press-on door edging... |
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Wow! I didn't realize aftermarket (fender mounted) hinges would clear the HR&C/SSS tubs. That's great to know. I didn't want to have to cut the cowl on my 67/68 RetroRod for PB's style hinge.
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