Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man :cool: Sound deadener, I was looking at Noico, but I ordered 80 mil “Siless” brand from eBay, 36 sq ft for $49. The cheap stuff all seems to be made in the same place, somewhere in the Ukraine. Reviews on this were just as good as any of them, but at a significant discount (even cheaper than Peel and Seal from Lowes).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I used the Siless 80mil stuff too. I got it off Amazon. Mine looked a bit different than yours in the picture above. Mine had squares embossed on the foil side. I used a Noico metal roller to put mine down. The roller had a grooved pattern that left impressions in the foil to help show where you had rolled over the material.

So far it seems to work well, my son has been driving the truck with it installed, but no carpet and it has made a difference over the stock jute pad and carpet.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Good to hear it’s decent stuff, looks like a nice install there. What you see in the pictures above is Peel and Seal, which has worked well for me in the past, but I plan on doing most of the cab, so it made more sense (and fewer cents) to order a box of the Siless.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Lots of time spent doing things which amount to minor progress :waah: The Siless sound deadener arrived and laid out nicely; I covered the floor and rear cab wall and am saving a few sheets to apply inside the doors when I tear them apart for new seals. Still need to hit the whole business with the seam roller to make it permanent. Carpet soon???

Also spent an embarrassing amount of time cutting, bending, drilling, and painting a universal driveshaft safety loop to fit just behind the front u-joint. I don’t ever anticipate being fast enough to need one per NHRA standards, but it makes me feel better with the driveshaft spinning only inches beneath my ass... :burnout:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha, nicely done! The loop looks top notch.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I second this!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks guys! Happy to be done with that and moving on

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Killer job, the smooth valley cover makes a huge difference. Are you going to relocate the knock sensors or delete all together?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Where did you end up mounting your Term X computer? I don’t remember seeing it anywhere.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I think it looks a LOT better. Knock sensors are deleted for now. The Holley programming has them turned off and it is a bit of a programming puzzle to get them working properly with an aftermarket cam. I’m not against adding them back later, probably to the sides of the block.
It’s just sitting on the passenger floorboard for now, in a snake’s nest of temporary wires. I have yet to decide if it’s going under the seat or in the glovebox. Guess I need to figure that out before I lay carpet...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

My thought is whatever is easiest.... to access.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I should have looked a little closer and I would have noticed your snake nest. I’m getting close on my wiring now and I think I’m shooting for under the seat on the drivers side.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’ve laid mine in the under-seat area on the passenger side and it seems doable, with relocating a few of the fuse and relay locations. I don’t want to cut any wires if I can avoid it, as it voids the Holley warranty, though I think I should be able to do it with some creative re-looming.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

GringoLoco:
Thanks for sharing your build - the information and ideas from you and others really helps.
Question:
Assuming you're connected to the engine, how far does the Terminator X harness/ECM extend into the cab - or how much length do you have once past the firewall?
Thx.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No worries, this is why we share :cool: The Termi-X harness extends around 4 feet beyond the firewall into the cab, just about enough to put the ECM under the seat, or to have to coil the harness up to put it in the glove box.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Lotsa time, little progress. Finished press-rolling the sound deadener, then moved on to installing double-foil backed jute, then started laying some carpet. Cutting the little bits of insulation on the driver’s side of the firewall was tedious; not looking forward to laying the carpet in that area...

Good news is the high-hump carpet “fits” even with all of the floor modifications. Bad news is I think I want blue carpet instead. Hoping with a black bed floor, core support, inner fenders, and under-hood, that the black flooring will tie in better. :waah:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like the black. But it's your truck. And a Beautiful one at that.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Much appreciated. It’s growing on me. I don’t hate it, just not sure I like it, yet :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The black will disappear once you get the rest of the interior in there. That being said, I’m going blue in Walter. :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Gringo & Niped..... Question for you both: How much 'resistance' do your PB arms have w/the Delrin bushings? I partially assembled one upper & was surprised w/how hard the arm was to cycle through the travel.

The bushings required more force than I expected to get them seated on the cross-shaft. I feel like the welding process tweaked the arm enough that its in a bind.

Either of you note anything like what I'm describing?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That’s what my wife said, too. I’m rolling with it for now. If I hate it, it will get replaced...
Yep, actually had a bit of an issue getting it all together due to the tight clearances and ended up emailing Nate. He said that in extreme circumstances, one may have to use a bottle jack or porta-power to spread them back out a bit. If you try to force bolting them on, it could exacerbate the issue by folding the arms inward. Letting them relax bolted in position on the truck for a few months (years?) now, they are moving very smoothly. Maybe driving a few times and cycling them helped to settle everything :confused:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That definitely does not give me the warm & fuzzies.

The upper bushings spin freely on the arms cross- shaft.
The upper bushings fit within the bushing 'cups' on the arm.
Combine the two & now things dont align requiring them to be forced together.

While waiting for some insight on the uppers today, I messed w/the drivers side lower. Of the 4 bushings I tried on the lower drivers arm, one slipped right in w/zero effort & had some 'wiggle'. A 2nd pushed in w/my palm (it had less 'wiggle'). The other 2 require more force (c-clamp) but seem like they'll seat as needed. I pulled the sleeve & bolt from the ART arm on the truck now & both seemed they had a proper fit within the Delrin bushings.

I'll assemble & test installation fit to the DM of the lower arm tomorrow using the 2 easier to install of the 4 bushings.

Not sure what my approach will be for the upper. It should go together & not be in a bind. I'm not going to settle for anything less.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I don’t remember having any issues, but it’s been a LONG time ago.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

So, this truck needs three, count ‘em three (3) shift boots. 1) to fit over the shifter itself to keep dirt and whatnot out, 2) to fit around the shifter base to keep dirt, rain, and whatnot out of the truck, and 3) to fit on top of the carpet and around the shifter handle to make it all look presentable.

Number one came with the transmission and number three will be a “stock” type oval boot. Number two required some creativity. I took a Mr. Gasket boot, cut off the top, flipped it upside down to fit around the shifter base, and bolted it to the floor. The boot itself is pretty decent quality, but the supplied ring and fasteners are a joke. I stuck 4 additional screws in it to help squish the boot into a reasonably sealed gasket. Excessive? Maybe, but it should help to keep the carpet dry...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thankfully all that shenanigans disappears under the insulation, carpet, and inside boot (ordered a new one that’s hopefully not ripped and brown) :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

How are you securing boot #3?
Is each layer anchored to the floor?

Looks clean!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti. #1 is a tight slip fit over the shifter stub and base, #2 is screwed into the high hump, and #3, the ‘decorative’ boot is just sitting there for now, as I used the trim ring on the grey Blazer before I sold it. A new boot is ‘in the mail’ with a new ring which will get fastened to the hump with some stainless sheetmetal screws (maybe the same ones that were holding it on before with the Lokar, if I can find them).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Finished up the firewall insulation and carpeted covering, which was all I needed to final install the floor carpet. I couldn’t resist throwing the seat in for a look. It will need to come back out to body work and paint the brackets, which I cut/welded 2” out of and sloppily spray-bombed a while ago. Interior is too nice now and they need to be pretty too :waah:

New pedal pads and trim, new stainless door sill plates, and a new shift boot and ring bring it all together, and I also took some 1200 grit to my shift knob to knock the sheen off. I’m not 100% sold on the stock style shift boot, but I’m not sure what I would do instead; leather and billet just don’t seem like they belong here...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It fits the theme: "Nothin' to see here folks"... then they start to notice little subtle details. It looks freaking great!
Don't worry though, someone knows someone that had one just like it. ;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks perfect.
Less is more and yours is super clean.
Most don’t realize the amount of work it takes to make things look stock.
Love the entire truck!

Very nice Chris!
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Scoti, you get it!
Thanks Keith! Lots of effort taken to make it look like no effort was taken.
Thanks Keith, maybe this thing might be on the road sometime soon-ish...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking very nice, Chris. You need to get that thing finished up so that after all this Covid-19 mess is over we can get together for some talk and adult alcoholic beverages!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

For sure brother, I’m ready for some cruisin’ and BSin’! Just a “short” list of things left to get her back on the road (subject to change/additions):

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Oh My!!! That’s quite a list, man! But I have to admit, I wish I was that close in Walter.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks Fantastic!!

I agree with the shifter boot. Not quite sure if it works or not.
Have you thought about something like this one from Jegs, and then dialing the shine on it back??

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/62382/10002/-1

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I know, the “end” felt closer before I wrote it down. Just keep chipping away, we’ll get there
Thanks! Though, I’ve never really been a huge fan of the Hurst-style boots. I think this one will get some stainless pan-heads and call it good for now. If it wears on me I’ll change it whenever I decide to do blue carpet :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Getting the Hill’s Rod and Custom (now Stoner Speed Shop) inner fenders installed, and boy, lemme tell ya, what a pain. But, man do they complete the “stock, but not” theme in the engine bay. Still lots more to do to get everything fitting perfectly on this side before moving to the driver’s, which should go a little smoother now that I have some clue of how to attack it. Bonus: the billet hinges fit with plenty of room to spare :cool:

Undecided on the cut fender edge treatment, I’m tossing around leave as-is, weld in a rolled edge, or use press-on door edging...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wow! I didn't realize aftermarket (fender mounted) hinges would clear the HR&C/SSS tubs. That's great to know. I didn't want to have to cut the cowl on my 67/68 RetroRod for PB's style hinge.