Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Check out what Rob did on one of his builds a while back. Its a long shot, but maybe he still has the bucks? 🤔

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=657

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

These are the only ones I know of that will. They were designed by Brandon Sisco for his 2-door Tahoe using Slosh Tubs. I haven’t seen anyone else do it with these, so I took a (somewhat researched and calculated) gamble that they would work and can happily report lots of clearance. I’m with you on the cowl cutting and prefer the more “stock” look of fender located.

Thanks, I remember that, and I do like the look. It would drive a slight modification to my hinge mounting, but nothing that couldn’t be overcome.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, ajgriffin, for the reminder. A quick text to Rob and it turns out the wooden bucks still exist and are headed my way next week :metal: I love this place...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

:metal: :metal: :metal: Awesome!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Tell me more about these hood hinges, please!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sold by All-American Billet, made to reside in the stock location but out of the way of the tires on slammed trucks. I found out about them after seeing them installed on the Ghoesst “Tahoe”.

https://shop.allamericanbillet.com/a...uctid=-8534758

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Huh, weird. I didn't buy a kit with the compressor either, but I got a belt with mine. Brackets, tensioner, hardware and belt.
Sorry it took so long to respond, haven't been on since my last post and your thread has added 4 pages of stuff since then. Glad you didn't need the part number. :lol:

Snowball??? It's about the size of that boulder from the Indiana Jones film now, isn't it? :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and just as ominous. I knew better, but I did it anyway...

Few little things I’ve been able to get knocked out: first, I ordered the Dakota Digital mounting bracket from Dead End Garage. It comes raw and undrilled, so I tapped it for stainless hardware and slapped some rattle can satin black on it. Mounts up nice and saves me having to make something; in this case it was deemed worth the money.

Also got started on the exhaust; now that all of the other major components are in place, I can figure out where to snake it through. I decided on an x-pipe this time, and it was a chore threading it around the trans x-member, driveshaft loop, and through the cutouts in the trailing arm x-member. I’m calling it good enough for now, and it is stubbed and ready to start the rear (difficult) section.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That trans x-member the way it zigs and zags sure is nice creating that perfect clearance for long tubes. I wish I new about that one. I'm half tempted to modify mine but I will wait for phase II. Everything is already done and I need to move on the paint.

So one thing I noticed, that I have not ever seen before, is how you put the x pipe sideways like that. I assume you did your research on that and it should flow, but my first thought seeing that is "will if flow properly"?

It looks great under there like that man.

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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks good! I wish I could fit an X-pipe on a Blazer.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! Yeah, I had the same concerns with the X rotated 90° from what is ‘normal’, but that’s the only way I could make the angles work with all of the other stuff crammed into that area. Looking through the inside of it, it’s basically a wide-open chamber, so it looks like it will flow well regardless of position.

I’ve looked and scratched my head a bit and have come to realize that the gasses would still be flowing through the X the same way, it’s just the bends in the ‘legs’ that are at different angles, if that makes sense. Guess we’ll see how it works out?

The trans crossmember is an ECE (or POL, or CPP, can’t remember) that I modified. Works great for what I needed. See how I did it here:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=314

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I think we can make it happen, I have a few ideas on how :smoke:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'll drive it to your house and we can crawl underneath and discuss. I'd love to hear your ideas.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Oh shoot man, I remember that post now. So it was YOU!!! lol. That gave me that idea. We have the same crossmember. I shoulda coulda woulda.

Yeah it's those angles that concern me. I realize the actual X is a wide open chamber, but the air/gases moving along the pipe bends coming into the X will be angled toward the opposing side instead of into the X like normal. So essentially the left and right banks will be angled "against" each other(like a head on collision), more violently than if they were angled parallel "with" each other. I think of those wind tunnels they build to test aerodynamics of cars, or I think of porting and polishing heads and gasket matching ports to create a smoother flow of air.

I don't want to say this "isn't" going to work, my brain is just having a hard time imagining it will work efficiently is all. I see turbulance in your future ;)

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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

How much room between the trans x-member and the trailing arm x-member? This one is 12.5” long, probably 7-8” wide: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-sxp4

I think one of these “sideways” and four mandrel 90s and we’re in business.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Now look at this x-pipe picture above compared to yours. This one would work sideways as you can see the angles of the pipe work no matter which way you turn it. Your X however isn't angled like this. It's not "universal" to angle/direction...

Then again, i'm no expert, i could be wrong :thumbs:

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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Me either, dunno. I’m just hoping it will help smooth out some of the glasspacky-ness of the Magnaflows. If it sounds like a can of bees, then I’ll have to re-think it :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I didn't mean to go on and on about it.... I may have had too much coffee this morning. I will be interested to hear it/see how it turns out. Mainly because I did an H pipe for reasons of clearance issues and would love to find out sideways works. I would change my configuration if so. :mm:

Keep up the good work gringo.

:chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sorry for bringing up old stuff, but it seems like you weren't too concerned about paint in the threads or fluid passages. Did that work out well for you? I'm getting ready to paint my engine so I thought I'd ask. Also, what was your prep process before you painted the valve cover adapters? Thanks for the info - really enjoying your build!

Attachment 2031438

Attachment 2031439

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No worries and thanks for checking in. I wasn’t super concerned, but you could stuff some paper in the holes or carefully tape them off. I did have rags in the intake ports and covered any areas that I thought might get paint into oil passages. Personal preference really, can’t hurt to be overly cautious. I like to run a tap into all of the holes I’m using, too, especially with an *ahem* gently used engine.

Valve cover adapters I simply sanded and used a self etching primer to help the paint stick to the aluminum.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Took some time to get the exhaust plumbed over the rear axle. Im using mandrel bends for everything and “snapper” bushing hangers. I had to replace the magnaflows with these Borla pro-xs, due to the outlet configuration; hopefully they sound decent, hard to tell from YouTube clips. It’s all tacked and ready for final weld tomorrow

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Great work. Ive heard Borla exhaust before on a cousins 2019 silverado with the 5.3. It sounds pretty good.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's the same mufflers that B.O.B. has on it. I think they'll sound good on there.

Are you ready to be invaded?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I had Borlas on my 83 and they sounded really good.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, and good to know. I’m a little concerned, but no going back now
Definitely! We may not get this turd driving, but at least we can drink beers and talk trucks.

I do like Bob’s tone, but a big Ford will sound different than my little Chevy. I looked at venom 250s, but they’re just so loud. (I think I just got old)
Thanks for the input. I’m still torn, but if they get rid of the glasspack-sounding “clap” that the Magnaflows had, I’ll be happy

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

This = glasspack-sounding “clap” = is what I don't like about these.... I'm an old Flowmaster guy, deep and mean sounding... Nascar is cool don't get me wrong, but unless you have 900+ horse and it's setup to race, it doesn't sound right to me on the street, just obnoxious... And this is me, getting old...

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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Exhaust is “done”.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Good for you!

Not to stir the pot, but the sideways X-pipe isn't going to be an issue. It'll still flow out like it should, but not as efficiently, so it won't make as much power as the "normal" direction would.

Think about it this way.... if you take 2 garden hoses and blow them full blast into an X-pipe the "normal" way, it'll flow as intended. Do the same with the X turned 90 degrees and it'll still flow, although not quite as efficiently. It's still going to flow the right direction because of the pressure of the exhaust gasses coming from the headers.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I dont see anywhere i can put one one mine. Any recommendations??

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yeah, I could see the possibility of that. It sounds really nice, and it fits, which is good enough for me right now. I may just have to make up for all of these intake and exhaust inefficiencies with more cubic inches :smoke:
Above the intake and through the hood! :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Minor catch-up: a few weeks back smbrouss70 (Steven) and 65StreetCruiser (Kevin) stopped by to help me get the AAW chassis wiring harness installed. Good news; it’s worth the money and fits beautifully. Bad news is wiring harnesses are not exactly photo worthy, but here’s an in-progress pic, the voltage regulator cover I used on the firewall bulkhead, and an example of the braided split loom we used on everything.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Also got the Dakota Digital RTX gauges and the Detroit Speed delay-type windshield wiper setup (that Steven and Kevin somehow convinced my wife that I needed, thanks :cool: ) installed. Whole bunch of stuff behind the gauges now, kept relatively orderly by the Dead End Garage bracket. Also managed to get the stock wiper control knob to work with the DSE switch, so no one is the wiser. Stock, but not. Perfect. I’m really liking this view from the driver’s seat :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Kinda hard to see, but the exhaust now routed over the axle and panhard, all the way out to the rear bumper, mandrel bends the whole way, with hidden turn downs at the tips. Pretty happy overall, but definitely reached the limits of the Eastwood welder as the beads kept wanting to pile up... The Borlas sound a little quiet at startup, but wake up nicely at higher RPMs :burnout:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and thanks to robznob11 for the SUPER bright LED tails. No worries about tailgaters now!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

More beautifully subtle upgrades that add safety and reliability. :metal: I ran my exhaust the same way, it's like playing tetris back there to maintain adequate clearance.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hadn't seen the DSE wiper motor until today and in the words of Chris Rock....

https://media1.tenor.com/images/a0f2...temid=12810415

Thankfully I live in Socal so I'll just use some RainX and call it good enough. Seriously though, great job with the harness. Looks super clean! Voltage regulator cover was a stroke of genius too! I was recently looking at standoff plates that would remove it from the firewall, but this looks like a great solution to me! :metal::metal::metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks man. Definitely a puzzle, but I think the mandrel bends are worth the effort over exhaust shop kinks
I’m with you, way too rich for my blood. Thankfully I have good friends to convince my great wife to buy me cool stuff.

I can’t take credit for the voltage regulator cover, it was a trick I first saw n2billet use on his trucks. All of that fancy looming was Kevin’s doing; I’m just here to post pictures :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Everything looks killer Chris! I love the voltage regulator cover idea and really clean wiring, I need to call you and get the details.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Chris,

Great progress on the truck. Did you use a direct replacement harness or a universal harness from AAW? Also, I really like your steering wheel. I have seen a number of versions of this wheel by different manufacturers. Who's wheel is that and where did you get it?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks Keith. No worries, give me a shout. I think we struck a decent balance between affordable and done ‘right’. The braided split loom and harness tape both came from amazon.
Thanks Karl. The harness is an AAW 510089 67-72 specific kit. Although due to my extensive modifications, much of it was deleted, the kit is VERY nice, VERY complete, and easy to install. Highly recommended. Get a nice set of crimpers before you start (we learned the hard way).

The wheel came from eBay seller drclassicauto. It is very nice quality and came with everything needed, including the correct size hub. The only thing I have had to do is take a small file to the sharp edges on the center section, otherwise very happy with it.