Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, seems like every project gets bit by the cancer bug sometime in its life. One day you're chugging along getting ready to install your sweet porterbuilt suspension when you remove a fender and find a few bubbles in the cowl. No big deal, you think, until you start poking at it with a screwdriver...

Best part: this was covered in a layer of bondo before being sprayed with bedliner/undercoating :devil: There was also a thick, rubbery sealant applied over bare metal in the wire gutter which trapped water, but there thankfully doesn't appear to be any rot through, just surface. Wonder what other surprises the PO left for me on the firewall? Guess I'll find out soon enough :smoke:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's a bummer.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That really sucks!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...but if you fix all of the rust, what will you do without the sweet smell of exhaust and fuel and other engine compartment goodness smells wafting into the cab and soaking into your clothing and soul? It seems if you "fix" this your just gonna need to roll in the dirt every morning to smell like a man... not that there is anything wrong with that it's just more effort.;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha, I got a giggle out of this. With the LS, I won't even have the sweet smell of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. Now at least I can get that hard-to-reach dead mouse out of there!

Fortunately, they make a cowl replacement panel now, but I'm still looking for experience from someone who has actually installed one to know what fitment is like. Guess I don't have any real choice other than to dig in. It's only time and money, after all--so much for the "quick suspension swap"...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I think this is only true if you use cat's. I don't have them on my 6.0 swap and I can smell unburnt fuel from the first couple of starts. That might change though.

Sucks about the rust. I had a similar cover-up happen on mine.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Might get better as it learns? Either way, it has to be better than my bolt on out of the box and only set idle screws tuned edelbrock.

As for the rust, this is literally the only part of this truck I haven't explored, so this should be it for surprises. I know there's a little in the kick panels that I'll have to deal with at some point, but nothing of concern until I get ready to paint for real someday. Just hate that people cover stuff with bondo instead of fixing it properly. Oh well, it will get fixed right this time.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I hope so, but you're probably right. It has to be better than the carb on the small block.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Call, PM, or email DeWayne Morgan at Nsane Hot Rodz he's done a few and can hook you up with the parts you'll need.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

based on what you did with the Blazer's rust spots, you should have no issues fixing that area even if the panel does not fit exactly right...:ito:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

If nothing else, it will run better. I'm ok with a little eye-watering ;)
Thanks, I've been messaging with him. Seems the replacement is not a perfect solution. I may still order it and decide if I use it complete or for patch panels.
Thanks for that! I was just hoping not to have to do any more of this again right now :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Minor tear-down progress. Almost ready to pull the engine :smoke: That's not rust you see on the frame, but a thick layer of dirt. I swear I cleaned and painted last time I was in here, um, wow, almost 7 years ago. Guess it deserves to be a little dirty...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yes sir. It does indeed.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, pushed her outside for a pressure bath (which was fun, due to the steep incline and no brakes, steering, or driveshaft). Once it was clean enough to work on, it was time for tear down...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Good bye, little small block. Almost feel bad about pulling this one, as it’s a strong running little motor and the last piece remaining from the old yellow Blazer. Oh well, life goes on. I’ll just have to slap some SBC valve covers on the 5.3 to make me feel better about it...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks like good progress (if tearing it down can be considered progress :lol:) I remember going through that part like it was just last month.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yeah, it’s kinda moving backwards. I’m also spotting a bunch of things I had been meaning to fix that I hadn’t planned on touching right now. So much for this little project not snow balling :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

= Scope Creep......

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha, yes, which leads to budget and schedule over-runs :exit:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well.... That will be a first :lol:


Not.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, considering this was originally devised as a mild PB front with a NoLimit rear kit which has now become PB touring front and rear with an LS swap and major rust repair, I think I’m doing pretty well. Oh, wait... maybe not :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Got the transmission pulled out and gave it a bath, only to find a big chunk of the tail shaft missing. Not sure how this happens, but sure goes a long way toward explaining the nagging leak I thought was coming from the rear seal...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Trying to decide what I’ll do with the firewall, as I plan to paint it while I’m doing the cowl panel. Might as well, right?

Few options I’m pondering are fully shaved (with ac lines where they currently reside), factory style “heater delete” panels (ac lines moved), or “ac delete” box, with lines coming through the hump. All are appealing, though I think shaved will be the cheapest and easiest while I’m already welding.

Thoughts?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like the look of the factory style delete panels.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I’m kinda digging them, too, especially when painted to match. Of course, that’s the most expensive of the options when you factor in having to move the ac and heater lines.