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-   -   How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=444746)

GAc10boy 10-25-2017 09:45 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 8067862)
Trying to decide what I’ll do with the firewall, as I plan to paint it while I’m doing the cowl panel. Might as well, right?

Few options I’m pondering are fully shaved (with ac lines where they currently reside), factory style “heater delete” panels (ac lines moved), or “ac delete” box, with lines coming through the hump. All are appealing, though I think shaved will be the cheapest and easiest while I’m already welding.

Thoughts?
The top pic looks the absolute best with an LS in my opinion. Fully shaved with relocated ac lines.

knomadd 10-25-2017 02:29 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
This isn't a great pic of the area, but I went with a blend of full shave and keeping A/C lines in stock-ish location.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...7_16_43_35.jpg
This was less headache than completely moving them out of site, but still work. Just another idea for you.

gringoloco 10-25-2017 06:54 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GAc10boy (Post 8068093)
The top pic looks the absolute best with an LS in my opinion. Fully shaved with relocated ac lines.
Agreed, this is a great look!
Quote:
Originally Posted by knomadd (Post 8068260)
This isn't a great pic of the area, but I went with a blend of full shave and keeping A/C lines in stock-ish location.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/gallery/...7_16_43_35.jpg
This was less headache than completely moving them out of site, but still work. Just another idea for you.
Dude, I think you may have just made up my mind. Super slick, but without crazy effort or expense. :metal:

kiwikid 10-25-2017 09:49 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
we are killing more than we are saving

rustytruck50 10-25-2017 10:53 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
??????

gringoloco 10-26-2017 11:47 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwikid (Post 8068570)
we are killing more than we are saving
So true on so many levels. The depth of this statement is unfathomable
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustytruck50 (Post 8068625)
??????
I’m with you :lol:

gringoloco 10-27-2017 12:46 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
They always seem to come apart easier than they go back together. Ready for everything to be all clean do I don’t get so filthy while working on it...

jaros44sr 10-28-2017 09:29 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 8067862)
Trying to decide what I’ll do with the firewall, as I plan to paint it while I’m doing the cowl panel. Might as well, right?

Few options I’m pondering are fully shaved (with ac lines where they currently reside), factory style “heater delete” panels (ac lines moved), or “ac delete” box, with lines coming through the hump. All are appealing, though I think shaved will be the cheapest and easiest while I’m already welding.

Thoughts?
have to consider which hood hinges you are going to use at this point...billet aluminum or steel. fan motor gets in the way, if billet

great build so far

gringoloco 10-28-2017 11:24 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaros44sr (Post 8070104)
have to consider which hood hinges you are going to use at this point...billet aluminum or steel. fan motor gets in the way, if billet

great build so far
Thanks! :chevy: I’ll be using the Porterbuilt cowl mounted hinges. No room for fender mounted hinges with the Hills Rod and Custom inner fenders. I am a little concerned about the ac delete box fitting between the tub and firewall, especially with a blower motor installed.

gringoloco 10-30-2017 12:28 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
1 Attachment(s)
A lot of work that looks like not much happened. Continued stripping things from the firewall, then scrubbed, cleaned, sanded, prepped, and painted framerails. Ready to start hanging some PB parts :chevy:

lolife99 10-30-2017 12:37 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Any plans to run the steel brake lines back to the firewall and behind the dropmember?

gringoloco 10-30-2017 01:36 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolife99 (Post 8071604)
Any plans to run the steel brake lines back to the firewall and behind the dropmember?
Yes, definitely going back to the firewall from the m/c, then down. Not 100% sure what I’ll do with the prop valve. It was mounted 73-87 style before, on the front crossmember. I liked that it was hidden, but if I can keep everything behind the DM, even better

67ChevyRedneck 10-30-2017 01:57 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
:jdp: Your truck took all her clothes off!

gringoloco 10-30-2017 02:42 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck (Post 8071647)
:jdp: Your truck took all her clothes off!
Yup, she got naked and it ain’t pretty, but we have a plan to remedy that

lolife99 10-30-2017 06:27 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 8071636)
Yes, definitely going back to the firewall from the m/c, then down. Not 100% sure what I’ll do with the prop valve. It was mounted 73-87 style before, on the front crossmember. I liked that it was hidden, but if I can keep everything behind the DM, even better
Mount the prop valve on the left hand frame rail under the cab, or ditch it and just run a Wilwood adjusble prop valve somewhere in the rear brake line.

gringoloco 10-31-2017 12:41 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolife99 (Post 8071814)
...or ditch it and just run a Wilwood adjusble prop valve somewhere in the rear brake line.
Hm, hadn’t thought of this. Part added to ever-growing list...

knomadd 10-31-2017 05:36 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolife99 (Post 8071814)
Mount the prop valve on the left hand frame rail under the cab, or ditch it and just run a Wilwood adjusble prop valve somewhere in the rear brake line.
Or... If you have deep pockets... Run the Baer Remaster with the undermounted prop valve. It's clean and not really noticeable. http://baer.com/site_images/Slices/i...emaster_81.png

GAc10boy 10-31-2017 08:48 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by knomadd (Post 8072523)
Or... If you have deep pockets... Run the Baer Remaster with the undermounted prop valve. It's clean and not really noticeable. http://baer.com/site_images/Slices/i...emaster_81.png
Now that is cool! :metal:

gringoloco 11-01-2017 03:18 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by knomadd (Post 8072523)
Or... If you have deep pockets... Run the Baer Remaster with the undermounted prop valve. It's clean and not really noticeable. http://baer.com/site_images/Slices/i...emaster_81.png
Quote:
Originally Posted by GAc10boy (Post 8072633)
Now that is cool! :metal:
Too rich for my budget, but does provide ideas. Definitely cool :cool:

gringoloco 11-02-2017 12:18 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
So, this happened today: :metal:

These PB parts go together like butta...

Bennett68C10 11-02-2017 08:26 AM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Awesome :metal:

builtbyKane 11-02-2017 08:54 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
It does look incredible.

SCOTI 11-02-2017 11:40 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
And just like that, done.

Hart_Rod 11-03-2017 08:11 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Suweeeettt!!!! :metal:

gringoloco 11-04-2017 04:49 PM
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennett68C10 (Post 8073660)
Awesome :metal:
Quote:
Originally Posted by builtbyKane (Post 8074121)
It does look incredible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hart_Rod (Post 8074707)
Suweeeettt!!!! :metal:
Thanks dudes! I can’t take much credit, this PB stuff is amazing. Zero mock-up before powder and zero issues at final assembly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 8074228)
And just like that, done.
Haha, wouldn’t that be nice. I think the hardest parts lie ahead...


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