|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
:metal:Moving on it’s own, BIG mile stone. Nice work this should be one comfy driving corner carving old truck!!!:metal:
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
1 Attachment(s)
do you have any more pictures of the following from different angles?
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Quote:
The "base" (that bolts to the cab) is a leftover 2.5" exhaust flange that fits over the original mounting holes. I welded 1/2" nuts on the backside of the flange to act as spacers / transfer the load to the firewall. There are two bolt heads on the firewall the flange would sit on and not be fully supported w/o doing this. From there, I used the flange as a template to cut the same sized hole in a piece of 1/4" plate (the one the master cylinder mounts to). I figured out how much room I'd need to set the M/C away from the firewall to access all the bolts - then cut a piece of 16GA 2.5" O.D. exhaust pipe to fit. The pipe extends through the flange, to the firewall (to seal the gap). I welded the pipe to the flange and then to the M/C mounting plate. I'll grab a photo to try to illustrate this better. :D Also, the M/C is from a 97-2002 Jeep Cherokee. Not sure how well it will work, I just try to save $ where I can - and the M/C and Stainless headers cost me $75 altogether. :lol: |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Quote:
Like so: http://image.customclassictrucks.com...ront_grill.jpg |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
very cool truck man! lovin the irs. the wheels look really good too.
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
"Well I would say for your fist build you have taken quite an endeavor making surprisingly few mistakes for even a seasoned veteran much less a beginner. Every thing is looking great to me I would have to put it together and blow it apart a hundred times to get this far. I guess I build on hind sight"
I was not refering to a mistake ... I as actually just wondering. It looked, to me, that it was just a bit harder to do it that way. IMO a great job so far ... I was just asking. Ratty 46 |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Ratty -
No offense was taken - I'm sure there are always better ways to do things - and I *ALWAYS* appreciate feedback. :) As for mistakes, I've made many, but I don't post those. :lol: |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Dig it ... my scrap metal pile is growing too!!
Ratty 46 |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Truck looks good cant wait to see it complete..
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
No pictures yet, but I roughed in the rust repair on the passenger side, threw a couple of doors on and WENT FOR A DRIVE!!!
Anything over 1/2 throttle in 1st gear lights the tires. :D |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
woo woo! you probably got the pudding smile dont you
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Pictures??
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
no way man the thing is driving. we need VIDEOS
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
:gi: I agree, better yet drive it down here!! You said end of june !!!
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
JUST WENT THOUGH THE WHOLE THREAD KILLER JOB AND GREAT SKILLS !!!:metal:
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Okay, words would on;y get in the way, so I leave you with this - the bed is sitting about 1" too high in the rear, but will be addressed when I put the bed on for good.
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/DSC_0090.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/DSC_0089.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/DSC_0088.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/DSC_0087.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/DSC_0086.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/DSC_0091.jpg |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Quote:
:) |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
looks like it is close to a road trip !!! Great job Scot!
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
looks awesome. like it wants to get squirelly out of the hole. do you think the front will come down at all once the hood gets on it?
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Quote:
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Nice seats .............................. floorboards and rocker panels are so over rated ..who needs em ......lol
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
:lol:
That side is next on the list. :D |
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
just went thru you thread, some great original ideas are in this truck. i like it a lot. wondering if you have any more pics and details on how you mounted the rack and pinion to the sectioned crossmember. id appreciate it a ton. im trying to decide if i want to section my crossmember or build one from scratch. also curious as to why you went with the R&P you did instead of the more popular alternative, mustang ll rack, maybe they are the same i dont know. thanks ahead of time and keep trucking!
|
Re: Starting my first build - 1966 C10
Well, I can try to explain... :lol:
This is the front of the sectioned crossmember BEFORE test-fitting the rack: http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...n/IMAG0076.jpg Notice the squared off section that runs across the front - this is a 2x2" 0.120 wall tube I fit in to increase stiffness (and fill a big spot that was left open. Problem came when I test fit the rack and realized the R&P wanted to sit in about the same spot as the tubing. Doh! I don't have any detailed photos of the hacking I did to cut out the top and front face of that 2x2" piece - the remains of the 2x2 tube literally ended up looking like a 2x2" piece of angle iron. Mounting the rack was a pita - only because I didn't have a helper that could tack brackets in place while I held the R&P where I wanted it. Other than that, the brackets are vertical tabs that sit on both sides of the rack mount bushings. The rear tabs have a nut welded to the back of them and I run a 7/16" grade 8 bolt through each bushing. The stock rack bushings came with steel inserts / sleeves that have serrations on each end: that allows the rack about 1/4" adjustment up/down/left/right before you tighten the bolts down. Once you tighten the bolts, the serrations on the steel sleeve bite into the tabs and keep the rack from moving around. Here's the best / closest shot I have of what I ended up with: http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...n/DSC_0338.jpg If you look hard enough, you can see the bolts sticking out of the tabs - as they were just being used as locating pins here. Also, I don't know if you picked up the fact I had to go with a smaller damper and underdrive pulley, along with moving the engine 1.5" rearward to get everything to fit: http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/DSC_0041.jpg Like I told Rob in his R&P thread in the suspension forum - I would've gladly purchased his setup if I knew it was going to be offered. :lol: Also - many people ask why I went with the T-bird rack instead of the MII - here are the reasons: 1. 87 T-bird rack was much cheaper rebuilt than any MII rack I could find :lol: ; 2. Same overall dimensions as MII rack; 3. (Supposedly) better internal seal design / upgrade over MII; 4. Valving is different and much more compatible with GM saginaw submersed pump (no change in flow restrictor needed). Hope this answers some of your questions! :) Scot |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:13 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com