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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
All that looks real nice! I'm hoping to get the black parts sprayed here soon on mine.
I think I'd go with the black on the trim. |
Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Nice progress Frank! I like the painted area painted better than the gray in your pics. If you could polish it all to match, it might look beter IMO.
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Looks great,, very "sano"!!! Keep it up!
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Nice progress FrankieD! About the trim, I think if you polish out the scratches the best you can. you have to paint 'em, but wouldn't have to go with black. I just think they will look better painted factory style.:chevy:
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
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How are you coming along on your truck? |
Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
got a few more things done and undone I wanted to clean up under the hood a little more so I bought a black powder coated single wire Alternator from Summit then ran all the wires that were over the radiator underneath and took the wires that were on the cowl and ran them behind the engine. I painted the inside of the fenders to match the body color and got them back on the the truck. Weather has been extremely hot and on vacation so that is kind of holding me back a bit
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Man it has been hot ! I thought we were getting a break from it, but its still here. If the humidity was gone I'm OK with dry heat.:chevy:
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Hey Frankie! It's been a little while since your last post. I was beginning to wonder if you bought one of those 1/2 funny car bikes or something! Anxious to see your new alt and wiring job. I'm a LONG ways from that task, but I'll be asking when the time comes. We've had some pretty good heat here too. Nothing like the humidity and heat you guys are getting, but enough to slow you down. Let's see some pictures!
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
here are some pix painted a few small parts I am glad I painted the inside of the fenders contrast is nice with the fenderwells I hated the rattle can black
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310378.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310377.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310371.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310372.jpg one wire alt really cleans it up http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310376.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310375.jpg split running ti front cross member http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310374.jpg http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...0/PA310373.jpg |
Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
The weather finally cooled down so I did some work today the heat makes me lazy the only good thing was not having to cut the grass. I put the hood on and the new body mounts but I have to get new hood hinges the orignal ones are just to sloppy. Any body else have problems aligning the front sheet metal after having it all apart? I think I am going to have to get some profesonal help luckily my cousin is a body man. The body mounts came out pretty easy except one on the right front so I took out my handy dandy Miniducter II, I took a vid of it in action it is really nice when a torch is out of the question.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...h_PB210390.jpg |
Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Glad to see you back on the horn FrankieD. Truck is looking clean! Nice work! I'm no body man, but don't forget about adjustment you may have in the core support mounts and cab mounts. Another guy on here (fantastic body guy Low Elco) is just finishing up a pickup for his pa (Boppa's old yeller truck). He was having issues with alignment and ended up wollering out the core support holes for final fit. He also had to make some spacers for the cab mounts to get it just right. I'd search him up and ask questions. He talks like he's an amateur, but wait till you see. He's top notch in my opinion.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501131 |
Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
The engine bay looks great. To line up the sheetmetal start by lining the doors to the back cab edge and rocker (the parts that don't move), then line the fenders to the doors and then the hood to the fenders. If everything is already together you just have to ignore the other parts and go down the list, If you try to align two parts at once it will just give you grief. And remember the core support can move side to side taking both fenders with it.
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Thanks guys, I known I had to move the core support to get the fender wells to fit so I figures everything else would just fall into place well I guessed wrong. I did one side at a time with the body mounts so I think that should be pretty close and the doors were never off. The problem is the hood I think I need to shim the hinges over to the left but when you have a Pro in the family might as well use him.
I've been running out of steam on the project I just need to figure out why I don't really have that much left to do maybe it is just old age. |
Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Hey, Frankie, you're too close, don't quit now! Here's what I did- John Buttera used to say that panels should fit like you could throw them on from across the room and they'd drop into place. Meaning, interconnected parts shouldn't be stressed into fitting. If you're worried, here's what to do. Blow it apart. Again. I know, but it's less than 30 min with air tools. I did mine twice, after it was painted! Ok, if your door hinges are loose AT ALL, STOP. Order a bushing and pin kit and tighten those dudes up. Bargain at twice the price. (Cheap!) Ok, now that the doors are solid, put them on and pay a LOT of attention to the gaps. 5/32, on the edges and 1/4 at the bottom. To hell with these numbers. Tape 2 paint sticks together until you have approximately 3/16 of wood. Make a couple three of those. Lightly bolt the doors in, with a bit of slip in the hinges. Have a buddy push the top of the door against the shims and the roof, establishing gap. Also good to put some padding approx. 1/2" thick on the door sill to stabilize the door. We also put old door seals in chunks around the door. When the gap looks good all the way around, Shake the hinges so they lay naturally and tighten the cab side. Open the door and futz until you have good fit up at the rockers and cab rear. Top roll of door should line up kinda with the bottom of the a pillar. Ok, got all this good? Hinges tight? Doors Open and shut no bind, no hit? Gaps look even, even from across the yard? Good Job! Now, replace the cab mounts. Assuming the frame is moderately straight and square, center the cab on all the mounts so the inner sleeves will slide up and down in the biscuits while the bolts are in. Especially if you use urethane, this should have you pretty tightly square. (I was.) Go ahead and cinch that sucker down snug, but don't kill it just yet. Now, hang the core support and leave the bottom bolts loose. Get some front end alignment shims. Use them to shim the rear of the fender when you hang it to run even with the front of the doors. Note that the factory doors of the era have a bit of a roll at the front for opening clearance, so line up about an inch back on the door body. Got that nice? Really nice? Gaps look good? From across the yard? OK. Tighten the fenders down good, and make sure it's all still cool at the doors. Now. Do whatever you gotta do to get the core support to fit naturally. I had a WAY funky frame horn I had to compensate for. I cut the biscuit in half plus on that side. When it "lays right", snug it down with all the bolts installed. Ok, find some good spot and do the x measurement on the fenders in the engine bay to determine if you're square. Shift the core support till it is, and snug it down. Measure your hood at the front and back outside points, and measure the corresponding points after installing the cowl to a snug-down point, with good gaps. If you have approximately 1/4" more opening than hood, put you hinges on, centering the bolts in the holes on the hinges. Snug this down. do the same for the hood, and CAREFULLY give it a test lowering. Shift about a samll amount a time and equally side/side till you get what you want, and set hood bumpers for front height. Crank all bolts down and be happy. Hope it helps!
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Nice write up! You make it sound easy, but we all know it takes some patients to do this right (I'm no doctor, but I'm loosing my patients!). I'll be bookmarking this for that day long long in the future when I'm trying to line up all my painted parts!
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Thanks TchncnDen I'm thinkin the core support is the problem (out of square) I will check it tonight I will look at the doors but every thing fit pretty good before I took the front end off.as far ad I can tell the doors have never been off but I will check the hinges to see if they are tight. I am wide with the left fender and under the hood on the right. I bought a box of shims from HF so I should have what I need there. I will keep at it even if it is a little at a time my biggest problem is my garage I have to pull it out every time I want to work on it so weather is everything. I didn't have any bad rust to fix something to be said about California trucks.
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
I feel your pain. lining up sheet metal is no fun time, you'll get it. take your time and don't forget to hold your mouth right:lol:
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
I'm glad you have it headed your way Frankie! It must be rough when your only option is working outside. I like to head outside because there is more room but at least I can work inside when the weather isn't cooperating.
I know your doors are already adjusted but I wanted to add something to my breakdown for anyone else that may be interested. When adjusting doors definately remove the striker and if it isn't glued in remove the weatherstrip also. You want the door to swing into position, you don't want it being pushed or pulled into position by the striker or weatherstrip. Once it swings into position you adjust the striker to hold it in place without changing the doors position. Low elco did a really nice step by step, it looks like we were typing at the same time. |
Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
Thanks! There's a part 2, but I HATE to type!
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Re: 70 C/10 from Cali to Illinois
I pulled the truck out to spread out the extra parts I had to sell I found another problem I didn't notice last week after I changed the body mounts the doors are now low hitting the strike this has me scraching my head.
I didn't have any time to work on it this weekend because I blew a trans line on my 95 so I figured it was time to change the trans fluid and filter it really takes a beating plowing snow. |
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