Re: 72 K30 Build
Looks good!
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Great build you got going on here.
The cab looks great. Good work. Too bad you are so far away as,I have a 71 c30 frame laying out in the weeds ! |
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Nice job, not even a hicup...
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But first, once i get my garage organized i need to start on the rat's rocker repair.. |
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No we are not testing the new body work strength (it passed by the way)! Starting to flip the cab like a pancake to get better welding angles…
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Since we decided to scrap the K3500 frame and look for a 67-72 C30 donor thought we might use the RV frame nub for some front end mockup. Hopefully this will help speed up the process once the actual frame for this project is acquired.
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OMG, Save Grandmas' quilt and go buy a moving blanket at Harbor Freight.... :)
To clarify what you just did to close in the pass thru was done only with a flanger correct? you mention a bead roller which i don't have and never used, don't even know if you can flange with a bead roller at this point LOL! |
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Either way, I found I had to flip the hangars side to side (Left one on the Right) to get them in the right place for the core support and the wheels to be centered under the front clip |
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Subscribed...
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Me too!
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Yes just used a HF pneumatic flanging tool (turn down air pressure or the tool doesn't live). Here is a link that will help explain the bead roller technique a little. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRZb9Zm36sQ Quote:
Discovered what you are saying when we mocked up the 72 sheet metal on the 84 frame. To get the core support back far enough with the long springs we would have needed to do that swap even on the newer frame to make everything workout. Quote:
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Brett, since your looking for a frame have you considered using a K/20 frame ? that's what I'm going to do on my K/30 build. I have looked at both my C/30 wrecker and my K/20 and they seem to be the same (size and thickness) Coop
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Whole thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=659340 Specifics & some engineering info here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...75&postcount=9 Great read and an eye opener for the frame differences I think. |
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WOW!!! information overload, looks like the K/20 frame is still your best bet, but I'm more confused. I've measured my C/30 and my K/20 and all I can find is the 30 is longer, I'm sure there is some difference in rear spring mounts and such.
I'm going to take my K/20 down to the frame, use the 20 suspension and put the dana 60 dually front and dana 70 hd wide under it and go from there, yes I know i'll have to redo the spring perches on axles but that's not a problem and bingo a K/30 pickup. Now, I don't know about there but around here 67-72 1 tons are like hens teeth, so what I'm saying is a K/20 frame and suspension would be easier to find. yes if your gonna do some serious work with it I would want the stronger 1 ton frame but for me I'll never work it harder than I have my K/20 |
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Brett, likewise meeting you too. Good luck on your builds! Thanks, Tom
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But since we don't and a little history with us is that we have a history of over working our trucks, I guess. Bent a new Dodge Dakota in half that had less than 10K miles on the odometer towing too large of a trailer with it. Broke both rear springs in a new Dodge Durango R/T, oops! Broke both frame rails on my 68 GMC 1/2 ton "Little Gorilla" all this damage just towing cars to car shows last ones were even with my smaller open car trailer. This doesn't even count any actual heavy lifting the family might want or need to do. Truck is going to be used as a trailer towing 4x4/work type truck with mild off road use. Not too tall (old guy w/flatbed) heavy duty factory look is important. And with our history a 1 ton frame is a must. :sumo: |
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Oh forgot to mention that after wadding up the Dakota we went for a F250 Super Duty diesel "Who's Your Daddy" and ended up frying the trans twice and mucked up the chipped computer but man that was a towing machine when it worked. Got PO'd after the second trans and the computer, told the Ford dealer it sucked and I was going to get rid of it and buy an old Chevy! :m2:
We did buy a 86 K30 Silverado BB SRW and got it all fixed up but my oldest boy had to have it. :waah: |
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So are you trying to find a longhorn frame or c30 157" wb frame?
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Ok Brett I guess after all that a 1 ton IS in order, jeezz I hope you never ask to borrow my truck, LOL I hear ya , I've worked the crap out of my wrecker, can't count the number of times I've had the front wheels in the air. do you have any leads on a 1 ton ? Coop
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After plenty of head scratching I keep coming back to something JJorgensen52 said in his similar 72 GMC build. Quote: "I think, after going through this, that it's not terribly difficult if you have a little bit of fab skill, but the front swap would be vastly easier using a '67-'72 K20 donor, as the frame components are the same in the front between 20 and 30 series trucks. That would solve all of the fitment problems I've had and make this a pretty straight forward swap." http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...7&postcount=54 Really liking the vastly easier and straight forward parts of this statement! :lol: |
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So Big Kudos to D & L Truck Parts out of Junction City, OR forum vendor “DLTruck1973” Tom & Thomas they have fixed us up big time!
First we ordered 71/72 K20 front spring hangers, shackles, front bump stops & outer bumper brackets, both engine & trans/transfer case cross members (next best thing to a K20 donor). These parts arrived very quickly and are practically like new, hot tanked and packaged with care it was like Christmas opening the box. My thoughts were we can use these parts and do mockup on my C30 frame nub while the frame search continued. But in some of my correspondence with Thomas I asked about a C30/Longhorn frame. These guys have everything I swear and go the extra mile! Once they were sure we were serious and could arrange shipping they brought in a Longhorn and processed it so we could get the frame we needed! WOW! ROAD TRIP, YES!! :four: What a great facility they have there, it was like 67-72 heaven, we got to fill our short list plus some other goodies I couldn’t resist and have been looking for for years. I just can’t thank these guys enough it really gave this project a shot in the arm so very impressed with them! Second picture is somewhere in Idaho on the way home. |
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It was a pleasure to meet you.Tom and I are glad that you could come here and check out a small portion of the inventory ;) It is always nice to be able to help out everyone with needed parts. Looking forward to seeing your progress on the project as well. Thank you again for everything, Thomas |
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HOORAY, now the fun begins, Brett in this part of your build I would really appreciate some real good measurements and info in changing the C/30 frame to K/30, like I told you I have a chassis and considering doing the same thing, it would really be helpful. good luck, Coop< got my glasses on and notepad handy pencil in hand.
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We are still in the process of harvesting axles/steering/hangers/springs/mounts & cross members from the K3500 since I don’t know for sure what we or somebody else may want or need. I know we gotta git rid of this 4x limo frame and the C30 nubby that I’ve decided not to use so we’ve got some room.
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Subscribed! I would like to build one of these too. I have had the thought of either trying to get my father in laws 67 GMC C35 he bought new or get another C30 and build one of these. I have followed JJorgensen52's build also. My initial questions were would I do a K20 frame or mod the C30 frame. Seems like the C30 are a bit more beefy than K20. Although it might be easier for the front axle swap on the K20 but then would have to do something about the inboard mounting on the rear axle for shocks.
I have had a couple 84, 85 and now an 86 GMC K35 and have always wanted a 67-72 style. That is all I can remember my grandpa driving when I was growing up. My thoughts are a possible flat bed with dump and put a plow on the front and just use for my hauling/towing needs with occasional plowing unless I get something else to plow with(just for my personal needs). Going for a look like the following members picture. Would have to say goodbye to my 86 if I go this route. Looks like you are starting to get things figured out now. Looking forward to your progress. |
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I think this white one is also a 127" wb truck? |
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Parts & pieces, getting ready to start slicing this frame up like a pizza! :devil:
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Here's some smoky pics and a frame cake!
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Do you plan to keep the spring hangers from this frame?
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Suspension/chassis options for this Longhorn to K30 Big Block conversion.
Our goals are keeping a low ride height, factory look and we do not want to modify the firewall for clearance. Doing it right the first time and not having to redo anything priceless! What would be the general consensus on engine mount and front & rear spring hangers? Additional info: Longhorn 133” frame, K3500 CC dually chassis parts donor Torquey 454/496 (TBD) mounted in forward 2wd position running stock exhaust manifolds T 400 w/205 transfer case (w/possible GV overdrive?) D60 & CC 14Bolt DRW axles Here are some of our options: Front option #1 Complete 67-72 K1, 2 setup (motor cross member may need to be modified for frame fitment, BB pan & front pumpkin clearance?). You couldn’t look more factory than this so it’s high on my list but might not be practical due to clearance issues. Front option #2 Complete K3500 mounts (clamshell style motor mounts will need to be reworked to fit the Longhorn frame) cross members & hangers complete. Front option #3 Combination of option’s 1 & 2 Use the K3500 motor mounts/cross member with K1,2 front spring hangers. Front option #4 I’ve got a 73 only (according to GM parts book) set of mounts (clamshell style) w/cross member (not as heavy duty as the K3500 stuff). We also have some front spring hangers that I was told came from the same application and they are a little different than the later square bodies. All front options will include adding the front sway bar from the K3500. We’re going to need new front springs. The only front springs we have are from the K3500 and are too long for this build. Also we want to use the factory automatic linkage, so thinking 67-72 length front springs and hangers are a must to leave room for the frame mounted linkage pivot (mounts left side rail close to the front rear hanger and front body mount on that side (I have both T400 & T350 pivot styles))? Also we do have both a 67-72 and the later square body style trans/transfer case mount. I’m a little concerned about the additional weight a GV overdrive might create. Wondering if a 205 right side bracket might help with this? Thinking some would suggest we go with a 4l80e and a standalone controller. This was my thoughts originally as well, we even acquired a core trans from forum member mjensen. As this build project got closer I remembered how many newer OD type transmissions I’ve smoked in the past. :ito: Rear option #1 Complete 71-72 K1,2 hangers w/new springs. Rear option #2 Complete K3500 springs & hangers. JJorgensen52 did this in his 72 GMC K30 build and it looked like it worked quite well. Rear option #3 Complete C30 springs and hangers. Pretty sure we have enough parts left over from the motor home chassis to pull this off. We would need to use additional blocks to get the ride height level. Either rear option 2 or 3 we have spring packs that can be refurbished and shouldn’t need new rear springs. |
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As for ride height - I really don' think you can go any lower than the way my build was, in the front. There's just not enough room to clear the suspension up front. The D60 front axle is TALL and even if you bolted it onto a K10 it would still be about 2" of lift just from that, nevermind the tires. |
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I'm aware the D60 is tall and am trying to keep my build as low as yours is. We are thinking we could live with that height just fine! |
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Here is some more progress tearing down the K3500 frame. |
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Still need to harvest the rest of the hangers and such but we've got some room for the Longhorn frame now!
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Your picture of the axles reminds me. The worst part of the WHOLE build was bleeding those darn rear brakes ... so hard to get to the bleed screw on the narrow 14FF |
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