Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Top came out great....the mounts...not so much....lol

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

It was a long day, got some things done, got other things started. I should have called Mike Rowe and told him to come by today.

(Big guy voice) Tonight, on a special episode of Dirty Jobs, Mike takes on a day of Dirty Hobbies.

(Mike Rowe) Today, I'm spending some time with another Mike on a special episode for dirty hobbies. Now Mike spends his work days as a boiler inspector, and we could have an entire episode on just that. But nope, we're here in Mikes driveway working on this hunk'o $^#*&. You see, Mikes on a mission to take this rattle trap from a junker to the road.

(HG) OK Mike, what I need you to do is lay down here under the rear bumper. See those wires running across there? OK, take 'em out. Yeah, watch for that stuff falling into your eyes, no don't rub it, that makes it worse. Well sure you can slide out a bit, but then the sun will be blinding you. Just don't work with your mouth open, rust is not for internal use.

(Mike Rowe) Hey Mike, this harness doesn't look so hot, and niether do these light assemblies.

(HG) Well lets go out to the junkyard then.

(At the junkyard) See that truck in the 6 foot high burr bushes? That's where we're going. See the yard owner recently cleared a path to the front of the truck. But the parts we need are on the back. So just climb up on the front fender there, with your bucket of tools, then avoid the large burr bush in the engine compartment, climb over the cab, and walk along the bed rail avoiding all the loose body parts in the bed, and jump down into the weeds and stomp 'em flat. Quit your whining, those burrs will pull right off when we get back to the car. What's that, a truck frame is resting against the rear corner of the bed. Awe, you can work around that.

Now just climb back over the way you came or else you'll be one giant burr yourself. Don't forget the bucket of tools and the tail lights, definitely need those.

(back at the car) see, those burrs come right off, and stick else where. You're not getting in the car 'til there gone though.

(Driveway) OK, now I need you to pull that old exhaust pipe out of there. Oops, forgot to remind you not to work with your mouth open under there... No don't rub your eyes. You better just come back out of there and get some eye wash....

Well, that was the first couple hours of my day.

What I got done was a cheap refurbish of the tail light wire harness. Heres what I started with:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5046.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5050.jpg

I clipped out some bare wires where some trailer wiring was put in, put newer bulb holders in the brake lights, put on some new ground wires, cleaned up a couple broken wires and tested it all out. I got that put back in, then attempted to repair the rusted out area behing the tail lights.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5048.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5049.jpg

There was nothing to bolt the tail lights too there. So I made some plates and used some body adhesive to hold them in.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5051.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5052.jpg

That's just some scrap from my C-10 floor. It was kinda tricky though, because the plates wanted to slide down. So I put the plate in, then quickly put the tail light in and got a screw started as the hole slid down to the right spot. I didn't tighten the screws much though so I could push the plate against the rusted area. Once it cured I could remove the tail lights and they were rock solid. Not a bad repair if I say so myself.

I had to let that set, so I started putting in the headers. I got the driver side in. That rear bolt was a total pain in the A55.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5053.jpg

What was left of the old exhaust.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5054.jpg

I got the passenger side manifold out, but the starter has to come out too for the header to slide in and I got hungry, tired and will get back to it later.

And here's a tip for tool shoppers at NAPA. I needed a socket universal joint ot knuckle. The napa brand was like $18. The Evercraft was like $5 and has a warrantee also. I got a set of 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 for less than the cost of one napa brand.

edit: forgot to mention the lights cost me $25, kinda high, but they are close and I don't have to pay for shipping. So the total is at $678.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

LOL

Great post!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Wow - those mounts are pretty crappy - sorry to see that. Also - nice fix on the taillight panels.

I looked at the pix wondering what you were going to do to resolve that - and you came through with a pretty good plan for a fix.

Nice work!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Thanks for the comments! I have a couple ideas rattling around my head for a fix on the mounts, but it'll wait until after I get a few other things completed. I think I'm going out in the afternoon heat to finish the tail lights now. The vikings just beat up on the browns, and the wife is napping...

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

love the post...nice ingenuity on the fix

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Still working on lights. Headlights work, tail lights work, rear side markers work, front parking lights work. What doesn't work yet is the turn signals (flashers do work) and the front side markers. They have me flumoxed (is that a real word). I have a post on the main board requesting help with this.

I'll have to check the license plate light and reverse later also.

Here are the tail lights al painted up nice with new ground wires.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5075.jpg

heres a couple tail lights working, the pass side may need more work, it cuts out cause the bulb holder is a bit loose.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5076.jpg

And this was the under dash curtesy light I took out. I don't think it was a stocker for this particular vehicle. Anyone got pics of what is supposed to be under there?
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5077.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Just got some info that should help clear up a couple more light issues. I'll try it tomorrow and post the results.

I found a car for my daughter. Driving down a highway I hadn't been on for a while. 93 Tempo, 125k, very good condition for it's age, decent tires, good stereo, previous owner seems to have taken good care of it. The daughter likes it, loves the color and can buy it herself in cash. I'm making him an offer for it in the morning. He's asking $800, but said he'd take less, just wants it gone. It'll be more dependable than the jimmy, and doesn't need any repairs at the moment.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_5068.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Got my daughter the car for $700 and she paid for it herself and so far she loves it.

Back to the Jimmy. I learned last night that the front parking signal lights are the ground source for the side marker lights. So I mounted those up, put in new bulbs and tried it out and shazam! they work! Whens the last time you heard someone use Shazam! in a sentence? And yes, it must have an exclamation point after it in all cases.

The only important driving light that is not working is the left rear blinker/brake light. That circuit is dead for the moment. I'll pull the bulb and do a voltage test to see if it's the bulb or bulb holder this weekend, and if not, just start tracing it up the line 'til I find the problem.

I need to get the dash and dome lights working too, but that's not really important yet. I did get a new junction block mounted to the fender by the battery too. Before there was just a nut and bolt holding the wires together with black tape wrapped around it. I have to re-tape some harness, but overall, it's coming along swimmingly. Swimmingly, there's another good old word. I'm a freakin' thesaurus tonight.

Once the lights are all working, I'm going to finish putting in the headers and exhaust. Well, the headers for sure, the exhaust I'm hoping will bolt up ok, but I won't know til I try it. The only other priority with the engine/tranny after that is getting the correct tranny (thinkin' with your) dipstick (Jimmy) and the kickdown cable in and adjusted. I think those two items can wait 'til after the brakes are working though. I'm not even sure where to start on those.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

wow, no wonder why those lights no work, rusty!!!! i have never seen that much rust there before, coming along it is.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

You have no idea how nice it is to be able to make regular updates. When I injured my arm back in July, and had to stop most of everything I love to do to relieve stress, it just plain sucked. My arm still is not 100%, but I can use it and there is very little discomfort, as long as I take it easy on that side.

Anyway, update for today. Checked out the left rear blinker and turns out to be just a poor connection between the tail light harness and the one that comes back from the firewall. So all the main driving lights are working. I just need to find some screws for the tail light lenses.

Got the pass side header in, re-wrapped most of the front light harness, re-routed the starter wires to keep them from burning up, tightened some loose crossmember bolts, and took it for a ride around the block. Open headers:metal:

OMG that thing is a beast. The floor is pretty open and the header outlet is right there. It's like being in a resonance chamber.

BTW, I love the headers. They were supposed to be for my C-10, but hit the crossmember on that because these are for 4x4's only. There is a bunch of clearnace on both sides. They tuck up in the frame rail. The only thing I had to do extra was take out the shift rod from the column to linkage and make a slight bend in it.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5083.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5084.jpg

You can see the rod there now after the bend, before it rubbed the header.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5082.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5080.jpg

The only odd thing with them is that one outlet is shorter than the other. This picture was taken pretty much perpendicular to the frame. You can see how high they sit up, and the offset.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5081.jpg

The only money I spent this week on it was for bulbs, about $15. So the total is now $693.

I'm not sure what I'll do next, brakes or exhaust. I'm kinda tired of laying under it and washing the grit out of my eyes. There are a couple things on the tranny I'd like to take care of that might be easier without the exhaust pipes there. And the brakes are seriously bad. I think I just talked myself into a brake job.:lol:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

These are the headers I bought. A screaming deal. Ceramic coated, heavy flanges, full tube length, delivered for about $125.

The seller is Holley Performance, and it is old stock items. They don't have any listed right now, but I've seen them since I bought these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...7452&viewitem=

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Looking good Mike. How long until you think you will be driving it regularly?

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

What have you been working on. I thought you bought a truck last year, but haven't heard about it since.

To answer your question, somewhere between next summer and never ;)

Here's the status of the apparatus. IF I get the brakes working properly, and the exhaust in, and the tranny kickdown cable, and dipstick all done this fall, THEN next spring I might be able to do some of the sheetmetal work and beat it around during the summer and beyond.

At a minimum, the windshield has to be replaced and the floor pans replaced. In order to do the windshield, the frame should be replaced (I just happen to have a couple), which means the top will need to be lifted off, which will remove support for the firewall. So, in my own head I'm thinking about body mounts first. Then maybe some bracing under the bed where the cross braces rusted away. Then I have a fair set of used torsion boxes that should be installed, but I'll need to do cab supports too. Then I can do the floor pans, brace the door opening, take off the top, fix the windshield frame and put in a windshield.

Now at that point, the rest of the rust repair could probably wait. I have better doors and a driver side fender. Still looking for a pass side fender. The back half is seriously rotted though. If I decided to drive it topless next year, I'll be putting a support across from bed rail to bed rail, to keep the sides from falling out (not kidding). The tailgate is already hard to open because of spread.

My daughter has a car now, so there is no impending use for it. My son, who has since claimed the jimmy as his, is still a couple years away from driving. He has been helping me out now and then on my projects and likes them. I'm somewhat confident that this will be his later on. And by that time, this may be a pretty decent ride.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Headers look good. Glad to hear you're getting to work on it. My truck sat almost untouched for 15 months while I compiled parts and waited on a guy to do the welding. Now that I found someone for that my project has started moving and I get to go over there often to work on it. It's fun to be making progress. Wish I only had $693 in mine though ;)

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Another way to save a few bucks, I went to the local licensing place the other day and registered it as a collector and won't have to pay for plates ever again. Cost about $50 one time fee.

I will end up spending some money on it though. Gaskets and seals, brake parts, some replacement sheetmetal, etc. No matter what you do, these old rigs will nickel and dime you to bankruptcy if you let them.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Hey Mike~
Frequent board-lurker here. Just wanted to say nice work on the truck here; looks like its going to be a lot of fun. and I hear you about the stress relieving aspect of working on these old trucks. Anyway, keep up the good work!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Thanks, yeah the truck has come ways, still so far to go though.

I've been taking a few minutes here and there looking at brake things. The rear resorvoir of the master cylinder was empty, but I did not add fluid because I'm going to check the lines and cylinders first. Does no good to pour fluid to the ground.

I found a test procedure online here http://www.autoshop101.com/ (check the tech articles link) and found that the booster is functioning, but has some leakage issues, maybe related to a check valve or according to a mechanic friend of mine, just lack of use. Very good info on that site though.

Then last night I jacked up the front axle and tested the function of the front brakes. They grab and release like they are supposed to. I'll pull the wheels and check the condition of the pads and rotors later on.

With all the work I've been doing underneath this thing, I wish I would have used the pressure washer under there also. I think I might still do that, then blow it off with the air hose. I'm getting tired of wiping my eyes out all the time.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Rear brakes are nonexistent with the hydraulic side, and very weak with the emergency brake. Will take a closer look later.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I just went through this with my '72 4x4 and found bad rear wheel cylinders, bad hard lines on the rear axle, and a bad master cylinder (rear reservoir).

Also check to see if your outer axle seals are leaking while you have the rear brake drums off as this indicates scored axles and bad outer wheel bearings.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Thanks for the tip, will do.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Last night I was able to start the brake inspection. I say start because the rear drums are stuck to the axle hubs. HARD. I tried heating the drum and cooling the hub, then bang with a hammer. No luck. It's been getting sprayed with PB blaster since yesterday. I'll try again later. The drums are shot though. They were rusted as bad as any I've ever seen. They both cracked in places while trying to bang them off. So, I'll be looking for drums. The fronts don't look too bad. I think the pass side rotor and pads had been replaced not long before it was parked. The driver side pads are wore, but not down to metal yet, which is good. The rotor has uneven wear. One side more than the other.

Anyone know where to look on the rotor to find the minimum thickness stamp? I couldn't find it. I might have some brake pads in the garage somewhere for it. I bought some brake lines from someone on the board that should be on the way. I figure on replacing all the rear lines, rear cylinders, shoes, tension springs, and drums.

I'm undecided on the booster/master cylinder. I may not have a choice, but I'm not at the point yet to know that.

Seriously though, on the rotor thickness, where is it, what is it if you have access to a brake spec book, etc.?

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Didn't get much of an assist here today, but I figured it out. I found one of my spare rotors out in the garage, from the green Jimmy and found the thickness stamping. You gotta wonder about these manufacturers sometimes. The stamping or actually, casting number is on the back side. So you would have to take the rotor off to find the info. Anyway, mine are ok. They wouldn't be hurt by a resurface to clean them up, but there is no grooving or major defects in them, and the thick ness is good. So on the front, I'll replace the driver side pads and clean 'em up a bit.

The rear brakes, not so good. I finally beat the drums off. I found that if you use a persuasive hit with a rather large hammer on the outer edge, it helps break 'em loose. Once they popped loose, no problem.

Inside was not pretty. The passenger side had a rodent nest in it. The drums were toast, even before I busted them up a bit with my persuasive hammering. The cylinders are both rusted. The driver side looked as if it was stored in water off and on over the past several years.

I got them tore apart now, except for the cylinders, which are soaking in PB blaster on the brake line fitting. Hopefully they come apart ok, the lines are dirty, but don't look severely rusted.

Time to start searching for parts.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Only worked on it for about 10-15 minutes today. Got the drivers side cylinder off, along with about 1" of the brake line. The fitting was previously rounded off, so a visegrips was about the only option. Twisting the line made no difference cause it would need to be replaced anyway. The pass side is still a bit of a problem. The line came off, it twisted a little, but I don't think it kinked anywhere. Got one wheel cylinder bolt out, the other was so corroded that the hex is too round for even a 6 point socket. I'll try the visegrips and if that doesn't work I'll just grind or cut it off.

Bought some used lines from JUSBLAZ here. They should be here this coming week. Been price comparing the various parts stores and online for wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware and drums. Everything but the drums are cheap enough, but new drums are spendy items.

I thought I found a good deal on ebay, but they were an older style and I'm not sure they would work. I've been told that 69 and older are different, and they do have a different part #, but I don't know what's different. They are both 11" x 2" and 6 lug. If someone knows, please respond here.

I'll be checking the yards this next week. I know where a few of these are sitting, just need to get prices. By next weekend I'll have the brakes back together, then I'll take a deeper look at the master cylinder. I should see if I can find the procedure to rebuild it. And the booster check valve is only like $9, so I might try that as well.

I haven't posted any pics in a while because it's just been a slow brake job, but I took some tonight that look alright. I think it looks like it's going to launch here.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5120.jpg
Driver side front, wore, but not shot. Just needs pads.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5119.jpg
Front pass side, looks pretty good really.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5118.jpg
Driver side rear dismantled. A bit rusty. The e-brake cable end looked ok. I should try and lubricate it and see if it'll loosen up more.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5117.jpg
Pile of rust and dirt from the same corner.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5116.jpg
Rear pass side. Stuck wheel cylinder still in place and pile of rust and dirt, etc.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5114.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Is the difference the diameter of the center hole? I had problems putting 6-lug '71 up wheels (from a four wheel drive) on a '69 (two wheel drive) because the center hole was slightly too small.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I think it's more than that. Not sure dimension wise, but the older style is smooth on the outside and newer is finned. Same up to 74. After that they are bigger and wider.

I've been searching high and low for the replacement drums. I thought I had a line on used ones, but both fell through. So I started looking at all of the available manufacturers, collecting part numbers, comparing prices, etc. For anyone interested, here are the part#s that fit a 71-73 K-5 or K10 truck.
Raybestos 2067 or 2067R
AC Delco 18B471
Bendix 140255
Napa equivalent of the bendix one is # UP 6401200
Wagner BD60292
Qualis 8821 This one supplies a few of the parts stores under store brand names and are usually listed as the same part #.

I found a pair at autopartsnerd.com for about $78 shipped to my door. Used ones were going to cost about $20 each. I also picked up new cylinders, shoes, a booster check valve and hardware at napa for about $65 for a total brake parts outlay of $143. So the total spent is now at $836.

If it ever quits raining out I'll be able to work on it. It has been about 50F or colder and raining for about a week now. Ick.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

My brake drums came in today, and it was chilly, but dry. I decided to get these back together now because it's supposed to be colder yet this weekend. It's about 30F right now and my daughter said it's trying to snow a little. Anyway, I had all my parts out for the rear and was having trouble remembering how to put them back together. I'm not clueless, but it's not just coming back to me either. It's been a couple weeks, ya know. The Haynes manual was basically worthless. I've got an old Chiltons book that basically saved me with some real good drawings.

I replaced the one busted line, and got the rear brakes all back together with new parts. I inspected the lines going all the way to the master cylinder, no kinks, bulges, or other issues. But there is no flow from the master cylinder. I took off the line from the master cylinder to the prop valve and it's dry. So now I'll need to find a master cylinder or a kit to rebuild it. Yippie.

I'm running out of time before winter really rolls in. Think I'll try and strap that exhaust on and finish the brakes up and call it a season. I may still work on it some this winter. I've been spending a lot of time this past week insulating the garage ceiling (walls already done) and ordered a propane conversion kit for the heater I picked up this summer. Put a couple lights on it to for the driveway and by the walk in door.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

This is way too early for this.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5146.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Too cold to work outside today, so I worked inside and finished insulating the garage ceiling. I did buy the new master cylinder, $15 at autozone, part# M1494.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...me=Fenco+Reman

Maybe I'll get it in sunday, when it's supposed to get into the 40's. Yahoo!

Total spent now $851.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

You better be careful, you're gonna have a grand in that thing before you know it :lol:

I'd like some snow here...but not when it will hold up the progress of my project.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Yeah, it's all those extras that are killing me:lol:. Nice headers, roll bar, beauty rings, etc. I know your kidding, but the thing is, I could have saved some money here. I probably could have saved the rear shoes, that was about $24. They were in pretty good condition really. The drums might have been usable, I just could not get them off without damaging them (too impatient). Thats $78. The cylinders were shot, and the hardware is cheap insurance. All together I could have saved $302 on these things and only have $549 in it. That money could have been used for some good tires or any of the 100 other things this rig needs.

On the flip side, I would have had to spend money on the exhaust with the manifolds, where now I can use the stuff I'm getting rid of from my truck. The brakes should be reliable for years as long as it gets driven once in a while.

As far as snow goes, I really appreciate the beauty of a bright snowy landscape. I've had a lot of fun in the stuff over my life. But now is not the time. Our average temp now should be in the 60's, and still be getting those warmer days in the 70's and 80's occasionally. We have been in the 40's for almost 2 weeks. The next 5 days is forecast for more of the same. :waah:

Our leaves haven't even all dropped yet and I may end up raking the yard wearing a parka. I've only seen this happen once before and that was a nasty winter. I think it's the one where MN broke a 100 year low temp mark at -60F. I helped my parents move to a new house that day.:uhmk: The high that day was -33F. Those Canadiens can keep that kind of weather.:canada:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Finally got something done tonight. The weather is still not cooperating, I just couldn't stand it anymore. I made new lines for between the master cylinder and prop valve. I hate making those things, the bends are so tight and there isn't much room. Bench bled the master cylinder and got that stuff all back together. I found a brand new set of brake pads in my garage, so I swapped those into the front driver side, and replaced that bleed screw. The passenger side ones are fairly new I think, not much wear anyway. Did an initial bleed on the rear brakes. Put the wheels back on and got the rig off the jack stands. By that time, I was tired and wet and tired of being wet, the light was gone, so I called it a day. I'll fire it up and take a test drive tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it will be alright, might need more bleeding. I got good flow through the lines though. I just hope I got the rear brakes put back together right. I'm 95% sure. I still may take the drums off later to replace the rear axle seals and fix the adjuster tensioner, which wasn't sitting quite right on the adjuster. Minor details. Spent more for the new brake line parts I needed than it cost for the master cylinder. Kind of sad really. Spent about $20 more for that stuff, so the total has crept up to $871.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Glad to hear you made some progress. Hope the test drive goes well.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Test drive...successful.

I spent a lot of time today cleaning the rig out, and putting stuff into it for storage. I was going to start installing the exhaust, but ended up stopping almost immediately because the header flange is a 2.5" and my exhaust collectors are 3". The local parts store didn't have the right ones in stock, so I have to order some and install next weekend.

The best news of the day though, is that I found indoor storage for my stuff over the winter, for FREE! One of my neighbors past away this summer, super nice old guy. His son lives out of the area but has been coming down on weekends to clean out the house, etc. I talked to him today and he said I can use the garage. It's about 50 yards from my own.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Not much happening here. Just got the header reducers on the other day, but had trouble getting the old exhaust parts apart and fit in, so I said the hell with it. Drove it around the block and parked it in the backyard.

On another note though, I found another parts blazer and made a deal to get that in a few weeks. It has a broken frame, it could probably be repaired, but there are so many other things wrong, it is hardly worth it. The main feature on that rig is the aluminum slots that come with it. There will be other parts that can be saved, or sold, but I love those old slots. It's possible the rear floor is in better shape than mine too and I could end up using the tub or at least part of it.

I'll also be getting a double wall top for my 2wd blazer that is in good condition with a pretty decent hatch.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Nice work!- I haven't touched the brakes on my 72 Blue 4x4, but I need to eventually...

I wanted to get the body mounts worked out first - done. :metal:

At some point I will check on the brakes - the PO 'fixed' them prior to driving it to me from Columbus (some 200 miles or so) - so it is stops - just takes a bit of time to do so...so I know it needs checked.

The PO replaced the booster, MC (with the wrong one - not for front disk), and a rear wheel cylinder.

I am not looking forward to snow here at all - I will likely be moving my 'garage cars' into another storage place for the winter to work on the 72 4x4 this year while the snow flies in my garage.

Keep going with the updates - even small steps towards the finish line get you closer than not doing anything at all. :)

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

any updates, its nice to see a classic comes together:metal:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Not really. I was trying to start it and drive it over to a friends place to store with a tarp over it, but it wouldn't stay running. It was starting very hard and even after warming up would die as soon as I put it in gear. Sounds like carb problems. I ended up burning out the starter trying to get it to go. Got fed up so I towed it out of the back yard and to the guys place. I have another parts blazer that is currently sitting in my neighbors driveway. It has a much better tub and will be swapped to this frame come summer. I may end up building a fairly decent ride out of this mess eventually.

I'm still mulling the idea of swapping the engine with the one I rebuilt. The one in it is pretty weak and I had no luck selling my rebuilt short block. I want to get some good breathing heads for it, maybe some vortecs, and I'm thinking about doing a TBI swap on it.

The parts blazer comes with 35" BFG's on some nice aluminum slots. The body is banged up some but not that rusty.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/IMG_5490.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/IMG_5493.jpg


Once things warm up around here I'll be back at it. For now I'm doing the body work on my C-10 in a heated garage.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

looking good. keep up the good work.

I wish i could find a 4x4 blazer around these parts.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

For those who thought this thread was dead, or just forgot about it, here it is again. I started pulling the new parts blazer apart. Getting the garbage out of the way and getting it ready to pull the tub off. I'm almost there.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5836.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5837.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5841.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5838.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5839.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_5840.jpg