Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

Today's project was to finish up the throttle cable replacement. I got started last week on this by getting a cable out of a 79 Burban at the U-pull-it. And once I got it back to the shop and looked at it in the truck I realized the ends where the cables connected to the pedal were different, I decided I to replace the pedal instead of trying to modify the existing one. So back to the wrecking yard where I got a pedal out of a 75 C20. The whole reason for changing cables is the PO had converted the linkage rod to a cable style, which is nice, with the exception of the pedal and cable must have come from a motor home or something as the cable is 63" long. To make it work he had the cable make a big loop around the brake booster (1st photo blue line show cable routing). I also wasn't thrilled about the angle of the cable between the carb and the cable bracket (2nd photo) or the fact he had Ty-rapped the spark plug wires to this big loop of cable The combination made for a stiff gas pedal. Once I removed the old cable I got to see the hacked hole in the firewall that was supposed to hold the cable (3rd photo) Obviously a patch was needed so that was the first task. Cut out a piece of sheet metal then, cut a rectangular hole in it for the cable to snap into. I don't know why but GM put the cutout for the throttle cable at an angle so I tried to match the angle in my patch. (4th photo). It took me at least an hour to form the patch to match the shape of the firewall. I planned to pop rivet the patch to the firewall so three hole were drilled. Then I filed down the bad spots in the firewall and drilled matching holes for the rivets. I put some sealant on the patch, riveted it into place, and gave it a squirt with a rattle can. The old cable and the new one fresh from wrecking yard. (Last photo)

Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

The pedal arms were different (1st photo) so I decided to bend the new one ( which in the picture is the black one) to match instead of remounting the pedal in a different spot. The base that holds the pedal is the basically the same on both. Using a cutting torch I made the three bends, one at a time, quenching the rod in water after each bend. I forgot to get a photo of the finished pedal, but it is a close match. After bolting the pedal in I removed the old throttle cable bracket from the intake manifold, and installed a factory bracket on the carburetor mounting bolt. I installed the cable and put the springs on in the factory location. (2nd photo) When installing the cable I made the discovery that the secondary's on the carburetor did not open. Which I am sure has contributed to the lack of performance. It took about 45 minutes to get that straightened out. There were two issues, one was the tab on the main throttle shaft (3rd photo) just behind where the cable hooks up was severely bent back towards the firewall, and the kick down switch was way out of adjustment. After a test drive I wonder if someone intentionally tried to block the secondary's from opening, because the carb has a serious bog if you tip into the secondary's and if you nail it, it just coughs and dies. Whereas before it just ran painfully slow. I will also have to address the kick down switch mounting. If you look carefully at the last photo you can see it is using the front bolt of the factory bracket and then a loop of plumber's strap to hold the back end in place. The engine has a dual plane Street Dominator manifold on it and no provisions for the factory bracket. If anyone has any ideas on how to mount this better I would love to hear them. A successful day as the new throttle is silky smooth and light. :mm:

Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

Jacked up the WMB and removed the front air bags earlier this week. It went easier than I had figured to cut through the welds. I did buy a good quality thin cutting disk for the rotary grinder. Then I fabbed up some upper plates to bolt in place. That took longer than expected as I decided to bend the inside down to match the cross member. I used a hydraulic press and like a hundred trips back and forth under the truck to get them to fit right. Then it was time to drill the holes. Oh boy nothing better than laying on your back drilling above you. :waah: I clamped the plate in position and drilled 3/32" pilot holes to start. After removing the plate I drilled the the cross member holes to 3/8" with a screw machine length drill bit I got at Grainger. The bit is only 3 1/8" overall length so using a 90* pneumatic drill I was able to fit the drill and bit without having to remove the lower control arm. Then it was on to the easy part of drilling the plates to 3/8" on the bench. That done I drilled holes for the air lines to exit on the back side of the cross member. With the bag bolted to the plate I realized that I would not be able to compress the new Slam Specialties bags by hand enough to get them in the proper location. So I ran the the line through the cross member and grabbed the shops power brake bleeder and hooked it up. The vacuum provided by the bleeder easily collapsed the bag and I was able to slid it into place with inches of room. Then I started all the bolts on the plate and the lower cup. After i turned off the bleeder the cup dropped right into position. I saved a ton of time over pulling one of the control arms off for clearance.
Looking at the old bags I think part of the problem with the alignment of the top of the bag and the bottom is either the upper part was installed at an angle or that part shifted over time as it was only welded about 180*. With no welds on the inside half there was nothing to keep them from moving.

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Some more photos of the bag in place collapsed and full size. It is hard to see but I put some braided fuel hose around the air line where passed through the hole for protection. One down side of these bags is the larger diameter now touches the bump stops I installed. The upside is the bag now only needs 60-70 psi to be at ride height instead of 90-100. The aired out height is at least an inch higher now which isn't a problem for me. But it's back to the drawing board with the bump stops. Oh and its time for new shocks as the other BRAND NEW KBY shock (With less than 15 miles on it) started dripping oil when I had the WMB up on the jack stands. So it came off as did the replacement they gave me for the first one. Not sure which way I will go now for shocks except NO KBYs.

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Nice work. Very clever using the vac. pump to compress the bag.

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That looks a lot better. I will need to try that trick next time.

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Thanks guys. No real ingenuity here, just laziness.

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Nice work. That old cup sure wasn't much holding it in there was it?

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After seeing the old bags next to the new ones it was very apparent how small and worn they were. (I should have gotten that picture.) I was unable to find any part numbers on them all I was able to read was Firestone Airstroke Actuator.
Thanks for the kind words.

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Got busy the last two days installing my swap meet finds. Lots of visual upgrades. First up was the rear bumper remount. As I mentioned way back in the thread the rear of the frame is tweaked. The passenger side is pulled down about 3/8 of an inch. The result of that is the rear bumper fits poorly at best. (Photo 1) It also appears that the bumper is bent in the middle. Most likely from hitting a trailer tongue repeatedly when trying to hook it up. The ends of the frame where the bumper bolts to are both cracked. (Photo 2) So my solution is to remove those tabs and install step bumper brackets so I can move the bumper around and square it up to the body. It went pretty well after cutting the tabs off I had to trim the passenger side bracket to get it high enough as well as make a notch for the outer bracket bolt. After that it was just clamp the inners to the frame, bolt the bumper to them for one last check, then lay underneath and drill six 1/2" holes. While catching as many of the metal chips in my shirt as possible (saves clean up time later) The drivers side only required a notch to clear the outer bracket bolt. (Photo 3) I ended up using the outer brackets as they are slightly longer. However the outer bracket frame bolts and the center bolts for the inners I drilled ended up being too close together. I probably could of deleted the center bolts as the bumper will never have any real strain on it like a step bumper could, but the holes were drilled so I decided to use the center bolts and to make spacers to allow the outer brackets to sit over the center bolts. I put 3/16" spacers between the back of the bumper and the brackets to gain some more space in the center of the bumper and the body. Happily I was able to get it leveled out and most of the bend in the middle removed.

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Final results. The bumper now is within 1/8" all the way across the back. F$%%#& A baby! Now I won't get dizzy walking past it. Still some bow in the middle and it has a bit of a twist, but overall it's so much better. If you look you close you can see how beat the license plate is.

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Next step was three parts. First was to swap bezels on the tach dash set I got from board member jaybatta. The one got from him was from a later year. At the swap meet I scored a 67 guage set for twenty dollars from a supposed 6800 mile motor home that was in a flood in 70/71 and then parked in a tractor shed until last year. The old boy I got the gauge's from said he was able to save the 402 and the sheet metal but the rest was junk. He had been trying to buy the truck for more than twenty years. He brought the cab from Pendleton to sell. When I was pulling the guages out his son came up and said he sold the cab. I ended up buying the guages from the new owner. The insides of that cluster were really nice so I used the speedometer, fuel, temp, and the ampmeter with the tach, oil and air pressure guages I got from jaybatta. The bezel shows almost no wear and the little cushions that keep the plexiglass from rattling were still nice and soft. Not rock hard and brittle.
Part two was pull the old guage set out along with the glove box.... (Cue the Bob Barker voice) to install a new dash pad. Picked it up from the Truck Parts booth along with a new cigarette lighter. The old one came right out as I had removed during the paint part of the project. I started on one end inserting the bolts until all of them were in. Then I started all the nuts finger tight before I went on to the screws. I found it harder than expected to get the holes for the screws to line up. It took quite a bit of force to push the pad down far enough. Once all the screws were started I tightened the nuts and then the screws. There is some waviness on the top of the pad but maybe after some time in the sun it may flatten out. I didn't tighten any of the fasteners very tight, so the pad will be able expand and contract with temperature changes. After reinstalling the glove box part three starts.
I installed the new guages. I ran some wires to power and to pick up the tach signal for the tach. I was able to splice into the tach wire I previously had run for the fuel pump controller. Upon start up the tach worked fine. I was expecting a problem that would require some kind of electronic isolation, but it was a nonissue. I did have a bit of a ground issue that was quickly solved by retightening the screws on the circuit board. At this point everything works except the fuel guage. It is stuck at empty so could be bad (which would be a shame as it looks so good) or maybe I screwed something up when I was working on the bumper. Oh well that's another day. I still need to plumb the line from the air system to the guage. But I have some imagineering to do on that, not to mention finding an adapter to hook to the guage.
Oh I guess there was a part four. I put the new cigarette lighter in.

Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

That rear bumper looks so much nicer now! The dash pad and tach dash look great too. Nice work!

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Yes, nice improvement! Clever process catching the drill chips in the shirt to save clean up time later. Even better when they are hot...:)

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Thanks dieselwrencher! That bumper has bothered me since I slapped it on there. But I had other things to tend to.
First off for today was to find the problem with the fuel guage. Last night I did a search and found a great thread by T-Bone 1964 on fuel guage testing.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=640615

So this morning I crammed myself under the dash and put my multimeter to work. I wasn't able to get the appropriate readings with the guage installed thus removal was necessary. I was able to remove the fuel guage from the guage set without having to remove the whole set. Once it was out I was still only able to get two of the three readings. The other one was about half of what it should be, but it wasn't consistent. It appeared that there might be some corrosion on the posts so I carefully removed the nuts and the resistor. Then separated the face and meter movement from the mounting plate. Now it was more apparent there was a small amount of corrosion. (Photo 1). Using a very small wire brush I cleaned the posts, nuts, washers and the resistor ends. Once everything was nice and shiny I reassembled the guage using Corrosion Block.
If you haven't used it before I recommend it. As a marine electrican working mostly on tugboats I found it to be a product that lives up to its name. It is nonconductive so no worries about creating unintended ground paths or shorts.
Testing after the guage was reassembled showed the readings were now correct and consistent. Then it was back under the dash to install the guage. Two of the screws were marginal on how they felt as I tightened them. So I found a pair of metric sheet metal screws that were perfect for the stripped out originals. Upon completion of the reassembly and testing of all the light bulbs ( I'm not a big fan of the repop circuit boards, at least the one I have, it is so thin the bulbs are pretty finicky). Turning the key on revealed the same problem as before, guage stuck at empty. Following my time tested mantra of "always look at the last thing you screwed with" I went back to the rear of the WMB and...
Now it is time for full disclosure. After being careful about the wires when drilling and fabricating the bunper brackets. I Homer Simpsoned myself and bolted the wire behind the corner of the bracket. (Last photo) :banghead::banghead::banghead: It took twenty minutes to unbolt the bracket, pry it off the wire, cut the smashed section out, and solder it back together. Now the guage works! I don't know if the corrosion was a problem, but it I feel the guage should be more accurate now.

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The up side of the fuel guage debacle is yesterday when I got done with the guages I wasn't sure if the fuel reading was wrong or if the new guage just displayed a lower level. I knew I was low on fuel so I went and filled the tank for the first time since I bought it. It took 15.2 gallons in the stock tank. I don't know how empty that is, but it didn't cause the guage to move. Forward to today and when I crawled under the back to check out the wiring. I found the fill hose had softened and split and now fuel was dripping steadily from it. I had been smelling gas all morning, but thought it was from this 66 427 motor that had appeared next to the WMB on the overnight. I was aware the hose was kinked and it was on the list. But just not today's list. I had to order a foot of 1 3/8" hose to get the 7" I needed. I will replace the vent hose too.
Also today I reworked the front bumpstops. The new air bags are taller when they are aired out by about 1 9/16". I scored the two red 1 1/2" bumpers at the swap meet. I installed them in the upper plate holes and added a 1/4" spacer to the lower bumpers. Then it was just a matter of drilling two new holes for the plate bolts. I'm not sure this will be a long term solution as I'm also thinking of adding some steering stops. So why not combine the two like GM did? I will have to replace the control arm bushings and ball joints at some point not to far down the road. To make that job quicker I want to get a second set of control arms, rebuild them and then its just a swap out.
I have noticed that the new air bags are touching the lower control arm when aired out. So it looks as if some modifications are needed. I did a quick check of the interweb and didn't find any lower arms with air bag clearance that were set up for a stock sway bar. I guess it's time for some more imagineering.
And thank you Advanced Design. Hot metal chips are a good reason for a big beard. :lol:

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Gauges look good. Make sure you get a rubber hose that is rated for fuel. Radiator hoses should not be used as they will deteriorate over time and cause a build up residue in your fuel system.

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For sure on that! And thanks for noticing the guages Hart_Rod. Nobody I talked to had the 1 3/8" fuel hose in stock so I had to order it. I even tried some 1 1/2" from another C10, but it was a no go. I had to leave the Burban with a jack stand under the drivers side overnight to keep the fuel in the tank. I got the hose about 10:30 this morning and all is well now. Back on level ground and no leaks. Spent most of the rest of the day cleaning up the grille surrounds I got at the swap meet. They are a little rough and I had to do some tappity tap work on them to straighten things out, but they were only $20 bucks and are well worth it at this point. I got new clips from the Truck Parts vendor. They came with 10-24 nuts with a captured star washer on the nut. I didn't like the fact the star washer was going to cut through the paint and rust. I ran to the hardware store and got some Nyloc nuts to replace them. Looking at the clips and trim i realized they won't take a lot of torque without deforming. So I ran all the nuts down a long screw to cut some threads in the nylon part of the nuts. Not really the proper way, but I'm pretty sure I didn't over torque any of the clips. I did have one spot on the end on one of the surrounds that had the metal torn off exactly where the clip needed to be. I carefully bent the edges up and made a 1" long insert out of some shim stock. Drilled a hole for the clip's bolt to stick through. When the clip and shim stock were in place I tapped the edges down to secure it all together. I have to apologize for not getting any pictures of this repair. I was so wrapped up in getting it done today I forgot about pictures. At closing time the rain quit and the sun came out. So here are a few gratuitous photos. It's back to work tomorrow. Vacation is over!

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-
Looks great. The paint scheme makes it look really low & mean from the front view.

LockDoc

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Thanks Doc. It may look the part but that 305 just isn't up to the task.

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Looks great! It sure has come a long way. Whats the plan for the motor? SB, BB, LS?

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Looks great outside. Congrats on making it there.

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Burb looks really good!

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Thank you everyone. It feels good seeing the end in sight. The engine upgrade is going to have to wait awhile. I would like to change the tranny at the same time. However the suspension rebuild needs to happen fairly soon. The noises from underneath are pretty disconcerting. Not as interesting as horsepower, still necessary. Photo of the starting point I found on the interweb. I'm glad I didn't pay the asking price.

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The WMB didn't come with dome lights and this is a decadent luxury I have in the Blazer I don't want to live without in the Burban. So gathered up some new door switches and since I was doing this from scratch I wanted to add a warning buzzer that would sound if the door was open and the lights were on. I stopped at my nearest Radio Shack for one of their warning chimes. These are an electronic bell sound like on a new car. When I got inside the store I found out they are going out of business and everything was 90% off. I bought all three chimes they had, two rolls of white and orange wire, and some tips for my soldering iron. I will miss having them around.
After some searches here on the forum as to where to drill the holes for the switches as 67's don't have a a formed spot on the jam for the switch to sit like later years do. The drilling and tapping went fine, but apparently there are more than one lenght of switch as when I shut the door I found out that the switch was too long and it put a dent in the door and scratched the paint. I was surprised as to the amount of damage that happened as I was very careful to shut the door slow and did my best to watch for a problem. I should have put a piece of clay in the switch location and tested the height first. To solve the problem I took the switch apart and cut the outer tube off about 1/8". Then I cut the inner spring off about 3/16" and stretched it slightly. This solved the issue and the other door didn't get damaged. I ran the wire for the switch and one for door speakers at the same time. Earlier on in the project I had drilled a one inch holes in the kick panels as part of the rust proofing. I put a small hole in the 1" plug to run the wires through. Then ran the wire across to the drivers side and repeated the process on that side.

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More to come on the dome light project. I installed the last of the swap meet finds today. Since the WMB has no jack and I am not lucky enough to drive around without one I picked up this jack with a bolt on mount and the handle up for eight bucks. The jack was pretty stiff at first but I sprayed some white grease inside, clamped it in a vice and ran it up and down a bunch of times and it now works as it should. It didn't fit in the stock location without a bunch of modification so I went under the hood with it, where it fit like a glove against the fender well. Maybe sometday I can locate a factory one and replace this one. Until then I'm ready.

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Quick question, does it matter what order the door glass or the divider goes in? I'm getting ready to do this and don't want to break anything, :lol:.

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If I recall correctly I had the glass in the lower part of the track on the front of the door. Then the divider went in at an angle and it was fitted onto the glass and I installed the top screw. Then I think I pushed the glass up so the regulator could be coaxed into the glass channel and the door skin and put the bottom divider screws in. Or something along those lines.

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Moved forward on the interior lights. When I removed the last remaining headliner piece I found the unused factory wiring above. Using the existing plug I soldered new wires to it and ran them forward above the mirror, back to above the hatch, and down the A pillar to under the dash. I had three under counter LED lights left over from a kitchen project, which used 120 VAC to 12VDC power supplies. An earlier test of the lights on a car battery proved they would work without the power supplies. I laid out the mounting of the lights, putting one above the mirror, above the rear hatch, and over the third door. With the door switches already wired it was pretty simple to hook up. Orange is 12 volt positve and the white is hooked to the door switches which ground out when a door is opened. Along with this I pulled the headlight switch and installed an additional lead in one of the empty slots of the plug (The orange wire next to the green wire) so I could install a chime (Think doorbell not buzzer) that will sound when the door is open and the lights are on. The chime came from Radio Shack. The headlight switch supplies 12+ when the switch is in the park light and headlight positions and the 12 neg comes through the door switch.

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I also installed some foil backed bubble wrap in between the stiffening ribs. This may or may not help keep it cooler or warmer, but it definitely made the WMB quieter. But not in the way your thinking.
To install the wrap I used a Gel formula contact cement. I had never used it before but I am now a big fan of it. NO runs, NO strings, NO over spray, and so easy to spread evenly. It is the best. I had no problems with it making a mess. Doing one section at a time I spread the cement with a 3" disposable brush. It was easy to lightly touch the wrap to the roof and if i needed to reposition it it was no problem. Then I just pressed it down well when it was in position.
Now to the noise reduction part. As I applied the cement to the one of the central parts I found the roof would drum with just the strokes of the brush, and if you just tapped it with your pinky you could really get a loud druming sound. The sheet metal on the roof was so weak in that area I am sure that just driving down the road would be enough to make it drum constantly. I guess something must have dropped on the roof at some point that was soft like snow and stretched the sheet metal. I stopped applying the cement and I put a strip of Bequiet mat across the section, but that didn't solve the problem. I ended up cutting the mat and gluing (with heavy seam sealer) a metal stiffener across the section from rib to rib. This solved most of the druming. I had a short section of the metal left so I glued it next to the first one and the drumming was cured. I would have never noticed this if I had not been brushing cement on the inside. I never noticed it when I was sanding the top prior to painting. So in a round about way this has made the WMB much quieter.

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Nice job on the insulation! Here's a couple poor pictures of the new rear quarter window seals.

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Thanks Hart_Rod. It's good to see you will finally be able to close all your windows. That should help keep things cleaner inside.
I had a little time today so I knocked out a couple of quick things. First was new vent flapper seals. The old ones were pretty much nonexistent. I went all out and got the $4.00 repops. Pretty simple job. Just open the vent half way then lift the flapper in the duct and the bottom pin will come up enough to allow the flapper to go into the duct and drop downwards so the upper pin will come out of its hole. At this point I removed the clip that holds the control lever and pulled the lever free. The flapper consists of two plates with a foam rubber gasket sandwiched between the two plates. The plates are fastened to each other with 9 rivets. Drill the rivets out and use a putty knife to separate the plates without bending them. I ran the plates through the blaster and painted them prior to reassembly. Then center the gasket on the inner plate. I pushed a straight pick through the plate and the gasket in the hole closest to the center, then lined up the outer plate on the pick. ( I used pop rivets to reassemble the plates.) I clamped the two halves together and removed the pick. Inserting a pop rivet in that hole to make sure nothing slipped, I used the pick to punch a second hole and then installed a pop rivet there. Going back to the first rivet I installed it. Then I punched the gasket and installed the other seven rivets. The only problem I had was that twice when the rivet snapped free the tool jumped and the broken off end of the rivet scratched the new paint. (Once on each side of course) I recommend using something to cover the flapper when doing this. Maybe some cardboard with a 1/2" hole in it for the tool to pass through. That way you won't have to repaint yours like I did.
The second project for the day was to paint and install the emblem on the grille. And looking at the photo it seems I need to wash the WMB.

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A month or so ago I noticed that my headlight and compressor relays were getting wet when it rained. I had thought I could find some sort of rubber or weather stripping to sheild them. Then I found an old tail gate cap in the scrap bin that was almost perfect. After a trip through the blaster to remove the rust and cheap chrome. I driiled a couple of holes to mount it and a slot to clear the factory positive post and then some paint. I used a clear sealant between it and the inner fender to make it water tight. It looks as if it will do the trick. Only time and rain will tell.:lol:
Plus it guards that positive post from accidental grounding.

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Yet another good mod.

Just wanted to say thanks again for all the info you have posted and pics detailing your reserection of the WMB! Good stuff especially for an average joe like myself. ;)

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Thank you Joe! I do appreciate your replys. I'm sure I could do a better job of documentation as I start off okay but forget to stop and get photos along the way then suddenly I'm done. Like today's posting.

I got some used upper control arms to rebuild and then replace the existing ones. (Lots of thanks to Chevy Metal in Vancouver WA as he gave me them for free!) The idea being the truck wouldn't be up on jacks in the shop immobile for the two days it would take to clean up, rebuild, and reinstall them. The new ones were pretty clean and already had the ball joints replaced, so no drilling the old rivets out. After stripping the ball joints and bushings off the arms I blasted and painted them.
As a side note. I did not know what spindles the WMB had on it other than they were 1 1/4" discs. After much searching of the forum and other places on the interweb trying to look up the casting numbers to no avail, I ended up recognizing one of the numbers as a casting date. Using that it appeared that they were 1972 spindles although one side was a late year 72. So I got a pair of 72 spindles hoping that both sides were the same. (Not a lot of faith in the PO at this point). So after I removed the old uppers. I cleaned the spindle tapers and test fitted each ball joint in its spindle. I did this by putting a light coat of anti-seize on the ball joint taper and inserting into the spindle taper. Then twist the joint back and forth making sure it is fully seated. Pull the ball joint out carefully so as not to touch the sides of the spindles taper. Then I examined the ball joint and the taper in the spindle looking for evenly distributed anti-seize. A shiny spot would show a high spot and an area with a build up of anti-seize would be a low area. If the joints were the wrong ones I would of had only been touching on one end or the other of the taper not a smooth even layer of anti-seize the full depth of the ball joints taper. Which fortunately for me is what I saw. Sorry no photos but I did have anti-seize all over my hands and I am sure I don't need it all over my tablet. (Anti-seize the gift that keeps on giving! If any of you have worked with pranksters you know what I'm talking about)
After that it was just clean the alignment shims, reinstall them the way they came out and tighten the nuts up to torque. 70 ft lbs if memory serves me for the shafts and the bushing caps to 90 ft lbs. Although I didn't find a spec on the bolts that hold the ball joint on I went with the general spec for a 3/8" NF grade eight bolt of 45 ft lbs. After that i greased them up. Just enough grease until you see the boot start to move. I greased the bushings as I installed them on the bench. Then after torqued the bushings I clamped the shaft in a vice and rotated the arm around the shaft as I greased it to ensure grease got everywhere inside. Then one last shot after installation. After the first hundred miles I will go back and check the torque of everything and put another shot of grease in everything.
I forgot a add a big thank you to lolife99 for his Drum to disc thread. It is most informative on suspension parts and the break down for what years cross over.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

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Picked up a pair of bumpers today. Fairly straight factory 67-68 ones with the bumper guards. The coolest part is the pair of original Oregon "Suburban" plates are on them. The uncool part is the gomer who took them off with a torch melted the lower holes on the rear plate and to top it off he broke both of the original dealer frames from Wentworth Chevrolet here in Portland. I almost walked away from the deal. But at this point I am glad I didn't. I can get the plates restored and just cover the lower holes with different frames. I also got some headliner parts (which also got broken during removal) and a factory jack and its hold down.

Well a post script to this post my buddy informed me that the plates are not the correct ones for a 67. They would be blue background with yellow letters not yellow with blue letters. Bummer!

Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

I have been working on modifying my lower control arms so the bags don't rub on them and maybe I can cut the lower bag mounts down some. I also want to make better bumpstops and get some steering stops while I'm at it. The PO removed both of them. The first photos shows the control arm and the white circle on it is the area that rubs the bag. You can also see where the bumpstop is touching the bag. I got a second pair of lowers and after doing a basic clean and blast job. My first step was to layout the circle and then try to imagengineer a plan to obtain everything I wanted. I used a plastic lid to fill the hole in the spring pocket and then using a machinist compass I scribed circles to match the one in the photos. The scribed circle is hard to see in the photo, but it shows that the stock bumpstop mount and steering stop is in the way.

Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

In the lead up to starting this I did a fair amount of research about how others had done this and found some examples to consider. The upper one provided lots of room and I assume the plate on the bottom goes all the way across the arm giving it a nice smooth bottom so it won't be able to catch on something. But I wasn't completely comfortable with the amount of rigidity left in the arm. Especially on the inner edge between the bushings. Just my own paranoia. The second method was certainty the easier and you could run the lower plate full width to get a smooth bottom. I liked the second but was unable to obtain the correct size tubing at a reasonable cost. Minimum length was 10.5 feet of eight inch schedule 40 pipe. I was able to get 30" of eight inch square tubing for $34 dollars and I was sure I could make that work. After trying every way I could I was just unable to use the square tube I purchased in the vertically like the second photo. So it was going to be a version of the upper photo I would go with.

Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

Now my plan is to split the square tubing in half so I have two pieces of channel with four inch sides. I cut the tubing to length and then split it. Then I laid out the cuts I wanted to do on the arm. I cut the channel to fit the arm before I did any cutting on the arm. That allowed me to mark the arm so the channel will fit tight. After marking I drilled some 3/32" holes from the bottom to mark where the channel was and then used them to make accurate marks on the top so I could cut from the top. I did deviate from the original marks a bit as I decided to make the shock side parallel to the side of the arm and not at a 90* which would have made things more complicated. Once all was laided out I cut the center out of the arm and finished fitting the channel in. Removing the flat bar stiffening for the shock was a pain as I didn't want to damage the arm.

Re: Working Man's Burbon
 

I trimmed about half of the steering stop away and all of the bumpstop was removed. Then once the channel was the trimmed to fit I tack welded it on the corners and then completed welding it by an alternating pattern of welds in an effort to keep from warping the arm. Once that was done I made the inside wall pieces and welded them in the same way. Since I no longer would be able to get to the bottom side of the sway bar mount bolts I needed to find a way to bolt the mount down. Taking a piece of 2" flat bar I drilled it for the same pattern as the mounts then installed 3/8" by one inch bolts in the holes. Welding the heads to the plate secured them. I then marked the arm and cut holes for the bolt heads to recess into the arm. In an effort to gain more clearance between the end of the sway bar and the air bags I moved the location of the sway bar end mounts about 3/8" towards the front of the truck. The last pieces to make were end plates for the steering stops. After they were welded out I went over the each arm with a flapper wheel to clean up the spatter and slag. Also I ground off the old spot welds from the bumpstop. Now I have a nice flat surface to work with when I fabricate new bumpstops.
It has been a couple of years since I have done this much stick welding and it shows. :lol: (Not the prettiest welds I have ever laid down) I should have of spent a day practicing my skills before hand.
Using the old spring pockets I marked the center of the old springs so I can install the locator rings in the new pockets. Which I will do after the arms are installed so I can adjust the rings location if necessary. I went with 3/4" high rings to locate the bottom of each bag. There seems to be some concern that bolting the bag down on the bottom can cause damage to the bag if the arm travels to far. Which I don't see happening but the rings are as simple to install as drilling the bottom for bolts. I think I have gotten every thing I wanted for the arms but time will tell. One down side of the smooth bottom I see is I no longer have the spring pocket to center a floor jack securely. That may or may not be an issue we will see. One thing is for sure is the arms weigh more than they used to.