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Re: Project NOT4SLE
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anyways... going to pick up my wheel bearings, and a few last minute details so when I dive in to the suspension..... I can just get it all done. If anyone knows off hand, I need to find the pics of where everyone cuts off the bump stop off the lower control arm to make it clear better. Also what else I may need to do when doing the suspension |
Re: Project NOT4SLE
Dude I had no idea!!
So, your only daily driver for a while AND you kept working on it? Right on brother! :metal: :metal: |
Re: Project NOT4SLE
Not sure on the bumpstop since I cut mine completely off for bags, but I would buy some loctite for all of your nuts/bolts you're installing with the suspension. Also, between now and starting on the tear down, spray all the bolts/nuts you're taking off with PB blaster once or twice to make teardown a lot easier. Have primer and paint around if you're planning to paint any of the parts while they're off for looks and/or rust prevention since it is a DD.
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Oh, and make a list of nuts/bolts you might need. I needed a lot more than you because of bagging it, but you will most likely need some not included with your parts so I'd lay everything out and take inventory of any needed bolts/parts and have that purchased to keep your down time to a minimum.
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Re: Project NOT4SLE
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The blue tape shows the "already trimmed" area of the lower control arm balljoint area. This will keep this area away from any rim with up to 4" backspacing. Check your own "trim job" with your wheels on your truck, setting on the ground,... and then turn them "lock-to-lock", checking for rubbing issues. The blue line shows how I trim off the bumpstop and leave the steering stop. (some people remove it all,... but I like to keep the steering stop) Personal preference. |
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When trimming the lip off, drill a hole where the 'starting' points will be (one on each side of the a-arm F/R). Then trim the lip & blend it in where the holes were drilled. This helps prevent stress areas from squared cuts when cutting the lip off. |
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Pulled the front drivers wheel of the truck this afternoon to try and get some of the 40 yr old gunk that has built up off of the parts to prepare to lower it.
I found that the rotor is junk and needs to be replaced. It has a groove that is pretty hefty right through the middle of it. So Ill need to order some replacement rotors before I lower it now. ill do brake pads and try to clean the calipers also at the same time. I sprayed oven cleaner on everything and let it soak in but it barely scratched the surface of this gunk. http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/o...p/IMG_0636.jpg http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/o...p/IMG_0638.jpg http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/o...p/IMG_0639.jpg http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/o...p/IMG_0640.jpg http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/o...p/IMG_0645.jpg |
Re: Project NOT4SLE
Before you through those rotors out you might want to check them first. I have seen a lot with the same grove and it may be a factory type thing. I know they are made that way now but they may not be junk, just older.
Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Mine have the same groove.
As for the gunk..... where is your power washer? :D |
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That little scratch? you would be good stopping the space shuttle with that cooling groove.:lol:
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I have the grooves too, been running them for years no problem except a jerk MO state inspector tried to tell me they were junk and sell me a brake job. I've had them turned twice, no issues.
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Me too - I got the grooves:bann:
I |
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My Chocolata 72 have the same "groove discs" still on it, I knew they were the original discs!...;)
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So, keep your rotors and drop that sucker! :D
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I also had the grooved rotors.
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any ideas? I think how water would be the ticket but I do not have a propane pressure washer |
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my burbs got grooved rotors just like that
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Break out the Simple Green and a pressure washer. :D
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I also get my brakes are fine!!! HAHAHAHA |
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Small scrapper to get the large stuff off then I use a product called Oil Eater and I get mine at Napa auto parts in 5 gal pals ($40+-) and it works great. The best part about it is when you spill oil in the driveway and water hits it you get that rainbow affect. A few drops of this stuff and the rainbow is go never to return again so the neighbors are non the wiser ;) Spray it on, let it sit but not dry then power up the H2O machine. For me it is a 2 coat system then right to paint with out any fish eyes.
It is also gentle on the hands for you single guys:lol: Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Brother I don't know what to tell you. What type of power washer do you have? Mine is a 2800psi with a honda engine and it will just about cut a groove in the frame with the 0 tip.
There is a whirly bird tip that is a "0" that spins so that it makes a circle pattern really fast to cover more area and help to keep you from eating a line into something. I haven't seen anything yet it wouldn't take off and you can't hit any wooden surfaces with it or it chews it up. In fact, it will etch your conrete if you hit the driveway with it too close |
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Agree with the others, mic the rotors and if the non grooved area is within specs, you're good. That groove was factory on GM rotors.
As for removing the crud... man do I remember that month of fun. I pulled everything off, got a large plastic container, soaked them in Simple Green HD, used scrapers to remove most of the built up stuff. Then I got some media for my power washer blaster attachment and stripped them with the media (like sand but not as harmful) and ran my power washer with it. Strips and washes all at once. Makes a heck of a mess with media landing everywhere but it stripped it to bare metal. Next time, I am taking it somewhere and having the whole frame and parts stripped!!!! |
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The rotors are old GM rotors...mine on my C20 are the same... I used my 3000 PSI pressure washer to remove ALOT of junk off my truck and it came off in big chunks :metal: You just may have to rub your nose a little harder into the sheet metal to get it to come off :lol:
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You might have to break out the hammer and chisel to get the gunk off!
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I soaked all my stuff in a large container, using Purple Power concentrate. Bought it at Home Depot in a 5 gallon jug. Mixed with water, soaked for two days. The gunk fell off. The stuff is caustic, don't get it on your hands. |
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all these ideas of how to make it easy... Just get a scraper and use some elbow grease. THat is how i did my entire frame then hand sanded it to bare metal after all the grease was gone.
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I agree with ripdog, but then you may rename you project to MIGHTB4Sale after all that:lol:
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:lol:
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:lol::lol:;)
My head liner was reattached with what looks like Liquid nails. I tried sanding and acid and a number of things and that stuff is very very strong and stubborn. Ill be tackling that this afternoon to try and get it all down off the roof. I also found the fitting for my radiator to have a 3/4" hose fitting for my radiator instead of the 5/8" one on there now. SO Ill be changing that as well. |
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The new radiator came with a 5/8" fitting?
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Kewl. Alot of times they don't come with a fitting. You normally use the ones from your existing radiator. I usually destroy mine taking them out. :lol:
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Well I got my sick ass off the couch today to get a few things done.
I started with finally hooking up my Neutral safety switch properly. I just plugged it in and left it. In doing this I learned that I did not have a reverse light out. One was not working and I had just changed bulbs and lenses when I got it on the road. Turns out that the neutral safety switch going out was allowing one to work and not the other. I put the truck in reverse, set the emergency brake and turned the key on. Adjusted it till both lights came on and tightened it down. Worked perfect this way! http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0659.jpg I also decided to replace the springs and turn signal cancel cam in my steering wheel as the signals work but they do not cancel when making a turn. I started with my 10 buck steering wheel puller, has worked great and pulled 20 or so steering wheels with ease. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0655.jpg http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0656.jpg I had bough this kit at pep boys for 6 bucks and only used the springs out of it as the plastic cam was fine, the springs however were broken in two. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0657.jpg http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0658.jpg |
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This is the way the radiator I got came with no fitting, I think it is 3/8" threads.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0649.jpg I found this fitting but could not find a 3/4" one like I needed to make it right so I just tightened the hose down extra tight. Worked for the last 200 miles. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0646.jpg I got the correct fitting yesterday and got it installed. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0647.jpg And last the nasty crap on the roof from the roof liner that came factory. It must have sagged at one point and someone used this liquid nails crap on it. http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0650.jpg http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0651.jpg I used an abrasive paint removing wheel and got it all ground down and cleaned up. now no nasty stuff above my head http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...3/IMG_0653.jpg now im back on my couch with a bottle of nyquil and tussin! |
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Ok, I have a question now. The reverse lights are tied in to the neutral safety switch? Mine are not working at all and they weren't working before my ns switch went out either.
Hope ya get to feeling better. |
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yes, they are tied into the switch. If it is not properly aligned they do nto work. Mine only had one not working and the new switch fixed that. |
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