Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

You can see the upper shaft connecting to the column and top u-joint.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Using factory G.M. lines, we plumbed the power steering hoses.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Rob, any ideas for a bushing or something on the top side of the frame? Could the bearing be turned over with a spacer so that it is flush with the frame on the top? Maybe it is just me but it looks a little unfinished as it is..... not to mention a great place for trash to settle... give me your thoughts..

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Is this safe? What hapens to the the cone shape hole?
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Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

you're changing the tie rod end type too....so its fine.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

I think Rob's a little light with his pictures on the install in this thread; I think after he drills out the steering arm with a 5/8" drill - he then reams it to the proper size / taper for his kit.

i.e. - when you use a MII or Ford R&P and associated tierod ends - they have a different taper than our trucks do. Not saying this is a MII rack - I'm just expounding on what my research on racks learned me. :D

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

great work.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

You can see the tie-rod hanging loosely on the spindle in this pic. It looks like a through-bolt with misalignment spacers not unlike the modification required for the Dropmember...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1307570047.jpg

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Turning the bearing over is a no-go. It would raise the second U-joint and cause a bind in the steering angles. I'm sure you could use a cut section of a shock boot to cover the opening. We all thought it looked nice and clean, having the shaft go through the frame with the bearing under it.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Easy now, were not done yet. spindle mods and tie rod ends, and alignment are the last bit to go. We will be using a High-Misalignment rod end, so there is no re-tapering of the spindle.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Whoa. Good eye! :metal:

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Here's the last steps. We finally recieved the adjuster sleeves today! The hex shock is threaded with 5/8" x 18 on one side, and 14mm x 1.5 on the other. We then had them heat treated. Tie rod ends are high-mis-alignment 5/8" chromoly.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Start by removing the spring clamps on the rack boots

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Thread the rod end into the adjuster sleeve. Leave approx 1/4" of thread showing, tighten the jam nut - TIGHT!

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

** Thread the adjuster sleeve onto the inner tie-rod end. Leave approx 1" of thread showing. Leave the JAM NUT Loose

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Bolt the new tie-rod assembly to the bottom of the steering arm. The large U.S.S. washer installs on the bottom, as a saftey stop for the rod end.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

The Complete Install. Toe adjustment is made between the inner tie-rod end and the adjuster sleeve. Don't forget to put the spring clamp back on for the rack boot. For smooth cruisers, set toe at - 1/8" . For more spirited driving, try 1/8" toe out.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Any way to lube those heims? There are heims with zerks. Any reason why you're not using them? Not being negative. Just asking :)

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

At this time we have'nt found a supplier with that item. - High mis-alignment, chromolly, with a grease zerk. if you know of any, let me know.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Give me the size and I'll check it out right away.
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Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

post #212 said 5/8

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

I pretty much figured 5/8ths. That's what all the racks used on all the race cars we built that used r&p. I got a call in to a supplier right now. It may be the high misalignment won't allow enough material for a zerk. It would be good to be able to keep lube on that joint with all the movement there.
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Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Just my two cents on the greasable rod ends.... I wouldn't recommend using them due to the fact that they are MUCH weaker. The area where the rod end is drilled and tapped for the grease fitting creates a major weak spot. I have seen several rod ends fail due to this. They split and peeled right apart... wouldn't be a fun ride. :)

A quality rod end like the ones that Rob uses are kevlar injected and will not need to be lubricated.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Ship them out!!!!!

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

I don't know how much has changed from this production version to the one in the old Joe, but will the production version still work with a pancaked crossmember?

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

hey man everything looks killer!!

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

The JT crossmember was raised 1 1/2". I suppose you could get away with 2" without needing to 'C' notch the rails. An install with a raised crossmember requires a different style support bearing, so please let us know what you are doing when you order, so we can get you thecorrect parts.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Rob,

I preordered a kit and I will need the part for a raised crossmember. I will send you PM

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Not a problem, we got it taged for you.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Rob, I am not a suspension expert but was wondering why a stock balljoint with a modified adjuster would not work here or why not move the heim to the top of the spindle? if a stock joint was used then spindles would be left stock...

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjust...Heim,3333.html Could this be used instead of the bolt? it has correct taper for the oem tie rod end instead of drilling the spindles?

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

In a word, Geometry. To get the bumpsteer down to a minimun, and have the rack in a reasonable position, the TRE needs to be on the bottom. The Speedway stud also would put the tRE on top. Yes we looked at the taper adapters that the off-road guys use, in which you would drill a 3/4" hole, press in a new sleave with a taper, TIG weld the sleave to the spndle, (a good trick in it's self), and then machine the steering arm flat for the castle nut. Did'nt look like something most home builders could do - in reason. This type of steering joint is stronger than the stock style TRE. They are used at Bonniville at 400+ mph, at the 24hr Le-Mans, in Mexico at the Baja 1000, and many more torture tests. Just remember, 'good for NASCAR, good for YOUR CAR'

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Ordered mine this morning... cant wait to get it!!!:metal:

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Thanks for the order, we're working hard to get them out early in july.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

This is what I did, along with a tapered bolt similar to the speedway one.

To get the 3/4" hole in your spindle takes a $50 drill bit, a drill press and a lot of patience. I was nervous as all get out when I opened my steering arms out to 3/4". :lol:

Again, Rob gives us a bit of insight to how much he researched this and thought about the customer before making it available. :metal:

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

We would like to hear from the customer on his initial impressions. I'm sure it is good but wanted to know how happy he is.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Rob on post #230 the part in red. At full lift and turning will the spindle hit or touch the jam nut looks close . In the pic it would be turning the wheel to the left?
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Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Tmend, i think its the angle of the pict. There is plenty of clearance at full lift, and full droop, both full left & full right turns.
Custom68 I saw Jake yestarday, he said he will be posting up his driving impressions, and answer questions about the feel, asap, probably this weekend.

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Maybe I over looked it but has a price been listed for the kit yet

Re: Bolt in steering rack
 

Great, just wanted to hear first hand as it looks like a great kit. I looked last night and even tho mine is an ls motor I built the motor mounts and slid it back a couple inches I think I have lots of room. It is a lot of money so I just want to hear as much about it as I can. With all the parts you are including it looks like it is well worth the expense tho I am not saying it is not. I have done so much on my truck myself but there are some things best left to the pros. Thanks for what you have done on this. I will count my pennies this weekend and see if I can swing it.
Dave