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Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
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I have been "working" :lol: quite a bit of overtime lately so my progress is suffering, but my truck funds are growing :metal:. I did manage to get the front suspension taken apart and the lower ball joints pressed out. Check out the globs of grease/dirt!!! time for some blasting errr paying someone else to blast them. I got a set of 73+ MOOG ball joint$ from member/vendor mbgmike (Mike's Bump and Grind) for a great price and I am waiting on some more MOOG: '67 control arm shafts & bushings, inner tie rods, tie rod adjusting sleeves, 73+ outer tie rods, and something else ? also got a new ign switch and harness pigtail, as well as a few other parts I can't remember at this moment....
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Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
my front suspension looked just like yours. 40 yrs of oklahoma clay caked on. i attempted to power wash and scrap with a screwdriver for about 45 min, then i gave up.
this 100+ weather we've had the past 4 days is wearing me out, plus 10 hr days with no a/c in our shop. i just keep thinking, there is no way we can have another summer this your like last year. i can't think like that, just one day at a time. i came home and passed out on the couch at 5:30pm, now i'm up at 3:30am. i'll feel pretty good until about 2 pm starts rolling around. just let me know when your ready to move your bed tomorrow, i get off work at noon. i'll be around the rest of the day. rebekah was asking if lacy is going to be home? i just noticed you started your build thread 1 day before mine. anyway, just saying. |
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You trying to compete with me :lol: You already won, just saying:ito: |
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I read your whole build but I can't remember. Are u putting on 73 and up spindles? I did that on mine with 67 arms and works good. If u have any questions about it just fire away.
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I took the bed off so I can strip the frame and paint it, or pay someone to blast and powder coat it, not decided yet. We moved the bed behind my new fence with a big enough double gate to drive through. Thanks again Daniel (Suspect),Alex, and Mickey for attending the bed relocation party! Oh yeah that is my replacement roof in the bed. I will be doing a little roofadectomy in the future because mine has some rust issues, imagine that :lol: |
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Here is the bed in its new temporary home untill the frame is nice and pretty.
I found this marking on the front of the bed "780X" dont know what it means but that's kind of cool finding stuff like that, all the firewall markings are long gone thanks to multiple crappy paint jobs. Here is the frame, not too bad looking. Also my stash of body parts hiding against the wall. The frame had a nasty trailer hitch welded on the rear that was made out of .375 strap plate. It was cut off a few years ago. I had to cut a little off the bottom flange of the frame due to the disgusting stick weld installation but I plan on welding a piece of rectangle tube at the rear to protect my gas tank anyways. There is also a real nice dimple under the rear of the cab that looks like some boob used a bottle jack with a 1" head to lift the truck so that will have to be pressed back out. Also have to weld the rest of the cab corner that I could not reach with the bed on. |
Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
I believe that you will need different tie rod adjustment sleeves or inner tie rods. The 73+ outer tie rods are 11/16 and the 67-70 are 5/8 (IIRC). I am using 72 inner tie rods and they are also 11/16. I got the billet aluminum sleeves from ridetech for 50 bucks from Summit. The reason that you cannot use a 73+ inner tie rod is because the stud that goes through the center link is too big I believe. BUT a 71 or 72 fits perfectly in the center link hole as well as has the bigger end that the adjuster screws onto. There are also some bastard tie rod adjusters I think.
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Sweet roof piece!!!!!!!!! I need one of those!
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Looking good, Dan. Had to make a post to re-subscribe. Keep hitting the unsubscribe link on the email by mistake.
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Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
Looking good
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Here is the roof donor, well it donated a lot of parts actually including the doors. I traded a beat long bed 69 for this farm rod hilbilly truck than parted and scrapped it. Check out the custom back half :lol::lol: |
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Nice progress Dan.
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hmmm....interesting ! lol
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Nice progress man. I am glad to see you got the fence project done.
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why didn't you just swap out that entire cab? after i got my frame blasted, there's a few different numbers stamped on it in various places. the frame id is near the power steering and also where the drivers side cab sits, and some other numbers around.
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Well I did buy it so then I was left to decide. After owning 3 others that were similar or slightly less rusty I decided to just fix mine. So to explain in short my reasons are: Stubbornness, lack of availability, and originality. While my cab is rough it does have matching frame vin, cab vin with original rivets, and matching glovebox spid vin. which none of my previous ones had. No monkey business on this one so I thought I should do it justice and save it. I have seen others do much more extensive repairs than I am doing (jezebel!!!!, by sgaylord the legend) I guess the originality is just important to me when it comes to the VINs being originally attached and all matching. Now if someone were to make replacement cabs and the funky rivets were still available then I may consider swapping to a new cab. but swapping mine for a less rusty one that will have similar issues down the road I decided to fix mine. Here are a few vin pics cuz everyone loves pics! Happy 4th :flagw: |
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This truck was fully loaded from the factory! check out these options, can't read some of the letters and numbers but here they are.
PAINT 4537AD -I'm assuming it means 507 lt blue with a white top. That is what it looks like on the hidden layers of original paint and has multiple wrong blues over it, 4??OBA HD REAR SPRING 4P?3HC SM WHEEL CARRIER 4Z?2AA FOAM SEAT 4614AB BLUE VINYL TRIM 4V38AB PAINTED REAR BUMPER 4B98AA SIDE TRIM MOLD EQ 4C42?? DELUXE AIR HEATER |
Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
I understand your reasoning. Being particular and having a passion is the way to get these classics built.
Once I rivet my vin plate back on, I'm going to use my drimel tool and grind the rivet head to look original. Posted via Mobile Device |
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lookin good
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looks like a good score and a lot of work ahead, look forward to the progress
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if you take your frame to the blaster on a weekday, swing by my shop at noon and pick me up and i'll go over there with you, it's only just down the road. i only met him once but i told him about your wanting to blast your frame also. he knows i'm with tp machine, tp's been using them for 15+ yrs, so hopefully he'll speed it up for you.
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Here are a few pics!! Got my ball joints out of the arms and my 3 deliveries of Moog parts are in, now I just need an idler arm and pitman arm. That and get a wrench big enough to take the caps off of the arms. spent about $375 on Moog parts. |
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My little helper and I removed the seat :lol: Okay she just sat there and smiled asking "what happened?"
I removed everything attached to the cab so it is ready to remove from the frame. I need to go shopping for some dolly wheels and figure out what to make to set the cab on. still thinking about what to do there. |
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And a preview of the pass side rust that will need the same treatment as the driver side.
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It is way too hot so I am going to have to take another shower and take the girls out for dinner. Hopefully do a little more this evening.
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After mowing the yard today I got the wire wheel on the old grinder and did some investigating on the donor roof. The top side looks great with zero rust but the inner will need a patch at least but I will likely just buy the inner skin repair panel and that way I can remove the old inner skin and coat the inside with POR15 to stop this horrid design that promotes self disintegration. Too hot to get much more done today. Here are the pics... |
Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
Hey dude now would be a great time to really quiet the truck down with some sound deadener in the roof. Thats what I am planning on doing to mine when I take the skin off. They say that a lot of your sound and most of your heat comes through the ceiling. Check out this link if you are interested:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld Even if you were feeling cheap I think that some of these tiles would do wonders. And I figured up how many you need and its only about 30 bucks for them. I am going to do the whole shebang on mine and put tiles plus the MLV plus the closed cell foam in my roof because I drive a Ford (which has the best AC in the world IMO) and wont be satisfied unless it is a virtual refrigorator in the 72 also. P.S. donor roof skin looks AMAZING!!! |
Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
i cut the innner roof skin out today to take that piece of wax covered cardboard out and fix a couple of rust holes on my roof seam . im throwing some dynamat in this one. you're right about self destructive. im putting in a headliner so i may just cut the center of the inner skin out so it doesn't trap moisture like the factory design.
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I have a headliner idea that I think might solve two problems in one. Since you have two roofs available you could cut the inner skin on the one being used on the truck to do any rust cleanup and add sound deadener, then cut the inner from the original roof about an inch bigger all the way around and use that as your headliner. It could be attached with sheetmetal screws or captured nuts and some nice "dress up" screws and that would solve your bracing concerns. You could paint it the same color, a contrasting color or upholster and you know it would fit perfect. And the bonus part that is right up my alley is that it wouldn't cost you a dime.
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Here are a few pics!! working the rest of the cab corner, and a lot more to come:smoke: |
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Cut down the front pillars a little longer than what I intend to keep in the roofadectomy, also removed the rear of the cab section from the donor roof.
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I finally manipulated the rockers around the top where they did not quite fit the profile of the pillars. I used an old press brake die for motivation;) pics don't really show the improvement on the rear but it is way closer than it was! Need to add a little weld now.
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Next up I made a real fancy cab removal jig modeled after some I found on here. I decided to use 2x6 rather than 2x4s for strength as my best friend is overkill and man it worked great! Way too easy, Only problem was my hoist seems to be too tall or the truck was too low so I modified on of the 2x6 ends to clear. Now I am running out of room! it is difficult to do a complete frame off in a 2 car garage.
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Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
I also used a yellow ratchet strap to anchor the hoist extension to the engine hoist so I would not have to worry about balancing it.
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