Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

very nice by pass set up cant wait to see it installed.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks flips72, should have some pics this week.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

My NC truckers will like this one, especially those here at Fort Bragg.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Too bad that could not be more true for the whole nation...

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Ok, been working alot on the big block lately. Just about ready to start w/pulley install and should be ready to mock up in the truck soon. Have some minor AN/braided hose projects to finish plumbing yet.
Also picked up a chevy hood ornament....been watching them awhile on ebay for $300-900 each (way to rich for my blood), and normally they are the blunted nose GM versions. Anyways...picked up a nice chevy version for $100. Will need rechromed, but no biggie and yet another future project goes in the box on the shelf. Haven't decided yet that I want the hood ornament installed on the truck.
I will post some pics of my engine progress as soon as I can sit still long enough too.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

That is such a cool hood ornament!!
Do you realize how hard it would be for me to not cut in the grill intakes for the "jet" and put lights in there?

On my first 66 Pontiac, I cut out the star in the hood ornament and lit that up, it was way cool.

Nice score man !! :clap:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

a buddy of mine said the same thing, although considering a less envasive method since there are some cavieties on the bottom of the ornament
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Outstanding! A rechromed/restored ornament would be equally cool on the truck or sitting on a shelf of collectables.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Was that a real NC sign? Ha ha..
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

haha, no something i saw while doing some research on a part
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

really likin the hood ornament... just put that with the cool grill guard and send to fayetteville arkansas.:lol: not really... unless uhh, you insist.

great find and that sign is a hoot.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

That may happen before its all done with.

I should have taken a picture before I opened the box. The entire nose of the ornament was packaged and sent hanging out of the box. The ornament is large....roughly 15" x 14" and they put it in a 10" x 12" box. I was more worried that it might have been damaged and opened it instead. Ornament arrived ok. I have some pics where I placed it on the hood to see how I feel about installing it. The weird part is being so used to not having it that I don't know I'll install it. I plan to do a hood swap soon (i have the donar hood) and have considered mounting it on the old hood to see how it "feels". Ill get the pics up today, and please let me know what you guys think. Ornament or no, and placement also. I set it forward and back a few inches taking some pics to see where it should go. I'd lie to see where aerotruk placed his also.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Heres some pics as promised. The 1st two pics are where Im trying to decide where to mount. The 1st pic is about 2" forward of pic two. I almost like picture 2 better due to being able to see the hood spears.....which one do you guys prefer?

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Heres a few more. This should be called a hood weight as I think its around 8lbs. Probably the largest hood ornament Ive ever seen. But they are pretty cool though.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Here is the 2nd batch of my parts using vinegar for rust removal. These are the rear tail light brackets for the step side trailer project. 4 day soak and then a few hours in baking soda/water solution to neutralize them.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Hard to tell best location from a photograph, but I do like the ornament on there. I kind of wish they had designed an ornament without the wings that specifically fit the V lines on the hood. My hood would never support one of the heavy ornaments, it barely stays up without one!

I’ll have to try the vinegar bath on some rusty parts. Those brackets look like new stampings

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks Mark. I agree with the comments on the ornament. I can't find any factory documentation on the mounting location, so I guess I'll have to "wing it" off where it just looks best.

The vinegar has been a surprisingly good deal. Cost is cheap, it does 95% of the work and it's easy to clean up afterwards. This is the 2nd time I have used it, the 1st was on some cab/front fender brackets that had 50 years of everything growing on them.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

These are the cab/fender brackets that I did my test run on a few weeks ago. I didn't get before pics on the tail light brackets, but condition was close. I did a thread on this process http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=583194 if anyone wants to check it out. Some suggest using salt mixed in also, but it creates a thick black tarry slag. I have not had that with straight vinegar, so I will stick with straight vinegar.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Got the hood ornament mounted on the truck. Will get pics up later, my phones not wanting to cooperate with me this a.m. Installed it now so I can see if I like it, I have a nice donar hood to put on the 63 and I figured it'd save me drilling holes in a solid hood if I end up not liking it on there.

One note on the hood ornament. I used 1/4" stainless studs & nuts instead of the factory bolts. It made install easier, especially on the front stud under the nose of the jet that sits in the space over the latch which is very tight. This way I don't have to mess w/the threads anymore and risk damage.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

A couple of teaser pics of the engine. Brought it to the huse today to do some more work on it. I want to mock up the pulleys and fuel lines with the carb on. I put a delete plate kit on all the exhaust ports and covered the rest of the openings since these pics. I mocked up the water bypass kit and off top I want to go a few inches longer on the driver side. Hose will work, but its tighter of a bend than I want and I'd like to have the same amount of slack as the passenger side. I had to rotate the thermostat base 180* due to the air gap intake, but it will function just as well this way, and no clearance issues that I can see with the front of the block. I will also have to change the passenger side rear to a 90* as the 45* rests right against the vacuum advance and will inhibit any counterclock wise timing adjustments. The valve covers are aluminum and I polished them prior to going to the builder, but they will need another polishing after sitting a year. I need to machine out the breather and pcv ports also why the covers are off. The harber freight foldable engine hoist worked great with absolutely no complaints. Pulled it from the back of my 63 and it had plenty of height. I have the engine on a low mount engine dolly that bolts to the motor mount location. The lower weight movement is easier since 90% of my projects are done alone. I have the bellhousing back from the machine shop also, so I can do final mock up of the hydraulic clutch conversion. Its currently in rust conversion treatment and will have paint on it hopefully tonight. I'll post more on the engine and its components in the next post. Just got it unloaded and in its temporary home until the install. I won't know about distributor clearance until closer in to the install, but I can always go points and it wouldn't bother me in the least or even a smaller HEI, but I do like the Mallory components on ignition.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Paint dry on the bellhousing, so I'm going to mock up the novak hydraulic slave kit

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Heres a few pic of where I'm at with the clutch system. I need to file a little more around where the clutch fork access is. The new fork is just a hair thicker than the stock one was. This is a 64 Chevy c-10 v8 truck bellhousing # 3815891. Has many other applications, but this is what it came from. I had to machine down the thick boss in the 9 o'clock position to the same height as the boss in the 11 o'clock position to use this slave assembly. It can be used without the machine work, but then you have to use a spacer and shorten the pushrod. I opted to just have it machined. Cleaned up the bellhousing, chased the threads, rust prevention treatment followed by a few coats of high temp aluminum paint. I need to get a new fork boot from NAPA tomorrow and finish the final filing for the clutch fork and it should be done.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

That water bypass looks pretty spiffy !!
I am saving this page of your build as I may do this mod to my rig.

Happy 4th of July !!! :flag:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

thanks. i plan to change a few fittings on the bypass system. and i need to mock up the carb/linkage 1st, but i think it'll all pan out ok
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I'm not very familiar with big block engines. I know they have a bypass, but not what it's for or how it works. Where do your new hoses connect and what is the purpose. I like the way it looks.

Also, your Novak setup is more simplified than mine. They changed the designed shortly after I bought my setup. Even so, it has worked flawlessly since the day it was installed. You won't be disappointed.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

wow, the big block looks great, bypass lines came out great as well,heck it all looks great, fantastic job.:metal:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

hey mark, thanks for the comments. the rear bypass hoses come to the water neck and will help balance out the engine temps on the rear of the block, thats about most of what i know ina nutshell, but still learning on this. ive had several big block cars, but this is my 1st application with this intake and the bypass system.
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

thanks flip, still working out some plumbing issues on it, i'll keep pics/progress posted
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I think I have ordered the last parts for the plumbing on the bypass. Have a few 90* fittings coming and I want to try and reverse the bypass as I originally plumbed it. Be tricky, but I think I have it and the throttle linkage figured out. I need to finish mocking the carb and I'll know once the parts show up monday.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Next issue is that the Novak clutch fork arm is about 1/2" wider than the stock, and the stock clutch fork boot cover will not work. I'll have to either dimple the arm or have some machine work done to the opening to let the gasket work. Be 1/8" off the top and bottom. There are no clearance issues forward and rear. I will contact Novak monday morning first and see if they have a narrower clutch fork.

Mark....what bellhousing did you use? Do you remember the GM part #?

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Wow that engine is looking clean man! Nice job! :chevy:
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks, I appreciate it. I knew it was going to be a long build, but slowly and surely it coming together. With every correct part its a small victory. Be easier if chevy had designed the 1963 truck models with gen IV big blocks...

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

If any body has any good or bad advise on clutch manufacturers and flywheel recomendations/experiences, let me know. Right now i'm looking at a mcleoud 11" 2nd stage 10 spline for the borg t-16 hd3 speed im bolting to it. I have a real nice cast flywheel, but really considering going to a forged steel flywheel. I know that GM ran cast behind alot of the big block cars and I'm not building this for strip, but do want safety and reliablity on the street. Nice thing is the borg is the same length as the muncie. Next thing I have to consider also is if I want to go real trick and convert the trans to work on the column shift or use the factory Chevelle floor shifter which is hard to find for a factory big block 3 speed manual car.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Wow that engine looks sick! Love those valve covers. Can't wait to see this installed in your truck.

Bret

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks, me too. I traded the valve covers for an old pair of tall cast aluminum mickey tompson valve covers. I was going for a real 60's authentic muscle car look at first and switched it up a lil to more of a resto mod look on the engine. I don't know who made them or when, but I wanted an old classic finned polished aluminum look for the valve covers and these fit my build, so my buddy swapped for the nostalgic set. (he was building a roller 454 for a 63 panel and sold the truck). It took some time getting the paint right on the valve covers with the fins. I'm sure there is probably a good trick to painting them, but I masked them off as best I could and then did good clean up work to finish any areas that didn't tape just right. I polished them prior to painting, and had to be carefull when cutting out the fins/bowtie so as not to scratch the aluminum. I need to polish them out again as they sat at my builders for almost a year. I still need to machine out the openings for the breather and pcv valve.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Ok, finished the plumbing on the bypass. This allowed me to turn the bypass 180* like I wanted originally. Only issue now is vacuum advance. May have to pull dizzy and reinstall w/vacuum advance moved a little. The 90* actually gave me just a hair less clearance than the 45* at the advance. I think the plumbing looks better like this. And I don't see any clearance issues w/throttle linkage & carb, but won't ultimately know until in the truck and installed all together.

Other think I'm working on is plumbing an -04AN line for the oil gauge. Looks like the back of the factory gauge is 5/16", so I'll use a 5/16" - 1/4" NPT adapter and then go 1/4" npt -04AN stainless line and 1/4"npt -04AN at the block.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Working on rest of clutch this weekend. I have gone with a chevy flywheel commonly used in big block applications as well as many others. Part #3789733. Its 168 tooth and I will run a 11" clutch. Leaning towards a Hays Super Truck clutch 90-100 right now. My borg t-16 is 10 spline. Theres a McLeoud clutch that i'm also looking at. I have a factory big block 11" clutch, but hate to find its not enough, so i'm planning on a stage 2-3 at this point.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

filing is slow going, but i think the bellhousing work will be done tomorrow. ill put up picks tomorrow
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Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

So after much deliberation, I think I'm going to install a Hurst Master Shift on the floor for the T-16. I will get the 4 speed column cover so that I don't have a column lever "bump" on there. My other consideration was converting the shift rods to work on the column, but don't know if its even feasible.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Here is the Borg Warner T-16 and the shifter. The shifter i'm told is an early Muncie and was later used on the Muncie 3 speed also RPO MC-1 in chevelle/Camaro applications. Its actually a fairly stout shifter, and may be worth making a shift arm for it instead of a whole new shifter. I have a new main case (the one in the pic has a broken mounting ear), and I'll have the trans shop clean it up and install new seals etc...when they swap the main case.