Re: 1968
 

go here and click the one that applies to you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

Re: 1968
 

Yeah the stud is longer on the 1971-72 upper and lower ball joint which is what you will need. Heres a little trivia for you, front Disc brakes became standard in 1971.
Heres where it gets interesting though both the 1971 and 1972 came standard with front Disc however the brake lines are routed completely different between both years, so you will need to use the 1972 crossmember or relocate your brake hose mounting tabs and buy this aftermarket kit to mount the rear brake lines.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Remova...ose,45896.html
Basically you need to commit to using the 1972 brake system.

Re: 1968
 

Here are the pictures of the spacers that will not work on my hinges.

Re: 1968
 

I was hoping that the ball joints would work. For I just bought the ones in the 68 frame. But I guess I will have to pull the engine and transmission out of my rolling frame and install the whole unit out of the 72. also the rear end. I like to work on my truck but this my friend is stepping backwards.

Re: 1968
 

the ball joints are not the only issue. They are longer that the drum brakes.

Re: 1968
 

I posted some pictures of the spacers on my site. Please go and see what i am doing wrong. in the picture you can see where I oblong one hole so they will match.

Re: 1968
 

Don't cut your self short. You have to know what you are doing, you owned a chevrolet don't you. Ha Ha.

Re: 1968
 

IF I understand and have not confused myself about the situation:

you shouldnt nee to pull the motor or change the cross member.
change the ball joints to match your spindles, get the 72 flex brake lines/ m/c /disc drum prop valve and be back on track.
why would the cross member have to swap?
like i said i may be confusing all my info from the last few weeks with yours, but check before you back up. it might save you a day.
good luck in either case and nice work on the sheet metal so far.

Re: 1968
 

The reason I am advising him to change the crossmember is because the 1972 brake lines are routed completely different then all other years and the brake lines route up over the top of the crossmember under the motor mounts to the front of the cross member and the hard point to mount the flexible rubber brake hose is on the front of the crossmember.
While it is true you could just relocate the brake hose brackets from the back of the 1967-71 crossmember to the front you might as well change out the whole crossmember to the 1972 version since he has one handy, also the 1971 brake line kits are on backorder untill the end of time and the 1972 brake line kits are in stock and ready to go, however its six of one half dozen of another, both ways will work just fine. In my opinion the 1972 brake line routing is superior to all other years, there is a reason why they changed the routing for the 1972 model year, if you study the design you will figure out why.

Re: 1968
 

the bracket for the brake line is on the wrong side. And if that is different what else is different. I have the whole unit I might as well change it. I am not sure if the angle on the cross member is different. as far as the spindle.?????????

Re: 1968
 

Today I could not get motivated. All I did was to remove the front brakes on the 1972 frame. that were froze up. and I welded the inter rocker on the pass side of my cab. I only spot welded then in. so I did that,

Re: 1968
 

welded

Re: 1968
 

My Son-n-law came by today and brought me 4 crome alum wheels and tires and I have to say they are not that bad. They took them off of a truck in their fleet. So thanks a lot. save me money.

Re: 1968
 

If there are other differences they are minor and wont cause any problems.

Re: 1968
 

Nice score on the wheels.

Re: 1968
 

Today, I feel like I got something done. It don't look like I did. I finshed getting my 1972 frame over to my work area. Now I can start swapping parts over to the 67 frame. Disk brakes and rear end.
I also finshed welding and grind the inter rocker on the pass side.

Re: 1968
 

and here is the same rocker primed and ready to go. I hope I can install the outer rocker this week.

Re: 1968
 

BOMP: Have I got the wrong spacers for the hinge. I am at a stand still until I figure out the spacers. it takes me about 10 to 15 minutes a spacer to rat tail them out. I like to work but come on now this is not the way I planed to spend 4 to 5 hours.

Re: 1968
 

Okay, Now you can't quote me on this but from the research I've done,,,,,the spacers or "shims" slip in between the hinge and truck. We already knew that.
What I would suggest is putting the door on and seeing how well the gaps are. Without any shims. The gaps from top of door to roof, rear of the door, and bottom to the rocker. If rocker isn't installed I personally measure the gappage between the A pillar, roof, and B pillar. On my '66 the plate that the hinge bolts bolt to slide around a bit to allow for some adjustment. Starting the bolts and lightly snugging them up finger tight still allows you to gently move the door around to adjust your gaps.
This is one site that may be of way more help than what I can give.
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-t...1947-1972.html


I also looked up this thread and they seemed to discuss some hinge/shim issues.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=514985


and this thread too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=529045

Sorry for not checking in sooner, couch got ahold of me and was turning me into a potato.
Hope this helps and good luck. Your doing not only awesome but Killer Awesome!!!

Re: 1968
 

This one seems really good too.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=423586


This one but might not be as helpful.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=539521

Re: 1968
 

glad you moved forward. i had a poor day.

Re: 1968
 

err as far as I know those arent hinge shims those are door jam latch plate shims which is the reason they dont fit the spacing for the bolt holes on the hinges.

Re: 1968
 

Im not very much help.
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Re: 1968
 

My neighbor whick has a 65 came over and he said that they are latch shims. I felt like a nut. He said that the hinge has no shims. It seams that the hinge post needs to be strong.If you put shims there it would not be as strong. for the hinge would not have a solid place for the metal to metal. Not shim to metal. At least he didn't hit me or any thing.

Re: 1968
 

got it figured out with the spacers. thanks for the links.

Re: 1968
 

u r right about the shims.

Re: 1968
 

Today I dry fitted the drivers door. It worked geat. I install a small brace temp. to keep in from moving again. Now all I need is the front floor pan and inter rocker. and rear pillar drivers side. I install the drivers side cab corner and primed it.

Re: 1968
 

I also sanded the drivers side inter fender and painted it black

Re: 1968
 

This is all the sheet metal I have to do. all is on the drivers side. Tomorrow i am going to dry fit the pass side door. I hope it turns out as easy. something tell me it want. anyway keep your fingers crossed. I also want to install the outer rocker on pass side. and maybe if I have enough time I will tackle the damage uner the rain gutter on drivers side. That is my plan for tomorrow.

Re: 1968
 

Man I wish I could be there in person to help you out with this you have a ton of metal work that isnt exactly easy when you dont know the tips and tricks for making it easy, unfortunately I'm half a country away.
The right way to do what your doing is to weld in a brace between the A&B-Pillar to keep it from moving before hand if you feel you absolutely must remove the inner rocker and floor at the same time, I dont know if you ever plan on doing another one but now you know for the future.

Re: 1968
 

thanks for offering to help. But as you said it is a long way to comute. As far as the brace for the pillars are. their was now difference in the expance of the pillars. Due to the rotten metal where the bolts are. the bolt heads were rusted all the way thru. But you are right about the braces the next time I will have all my metal patches on hand before i do any cutting and braces installed.

Re: 1968
 

day, i finshed the pass door outer rocker. It wanot as easy as the drivers side. I had t cut the inter rocker lose and fit it to the door. But it works good now. I hop etheir is no difference between the old door and the new ones I am buying.

Re: 1968
 

also I applyed some bondo on the fire wall where the welds were and now they are not as easy seen. and i manage to tackle the rain gutter and I cut the old damage out and I will weld it up tomorrow.

Re: 1968
 

When ever I check your build I sit, look, stare, and am totally amazed at your progress.:metal:

Re: 1968
 

Nice job on the rockers and the floor.
Do you plan on doing an aftermarket Air Conditioning unit like Vintage Air?

Re: 1968
 

Yes I am planing on air conditioning. here in Florida it is a must have. But it will have to come later.

Re: 1968
 

thank you very much. I take my time and try to fix everything at least two or three times. only kidding. But thanks again. it means a lot to me to hear from you.

Re: 1968
 

Today I played hookie from my build.Instead of working on my truck I hung Christmas light on the house.But it was for a good cause. Thee boys like it. I hope.My two adophed boys are 7 and 5 And I am 63 they keep me going around in circles.

Re: 1968
 

Today, I just applied some bondo on the rear of the cab. I will sand it tomorrow if and when I get to it. First, I am going to finish the welding on the rain gutter. I got it cut out and the metal cut and ready to be welded back in. Need to put something in the bad area. such as a sealer so the rust will slow down. I know I want be able to stop it. At least it will be slower.

Re: 1968
 

Boy, you don't waste time! Great looking build, glad to see it staying pretty much stock! Are you new wheels going to fit though? I thought all 1/2 tons with drums in the front had 6 lug pattern..