Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Did the color on doors last night, the paint was laying OK, but the clear went on GREAT. We had a little of something showing through the one door, so the last coat of clear we put on had a bit of a run in it, but it's in an easy to sand place, so we'll catch it during wetstand and polish....Doors have probably been best looking panels we've done so far, here they are this morning after drying all night.

http://imageshack.us/a/img94/1347/xdz5.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img197/6383/e1ka.jpg

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Looking REAL good there sir !! :thumbs:

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thanks! I have to say, for what everyone said is cheap not to great paint, i feel the centari + clear is affordable and fantastic if you put the time in to get the panels straight.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Just my opinion, but wait 5-10 years and tell me that you feel the same way.
It is new & fresh right now, and I am sure that it looks AWESOME, and if you are gonna be getting rid of it in the next few, all is good.

On a side-note, we painted non-exposed surfaces on my dad's pro-street 10-12 years ago, with Centari and recently he was sayin how he wished he woulda used Chromabase Base/Clear inside & out and not worried about saving a buck, because of the way it was holding up on the exterior....

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Well, when i say it looks fantastic, i mean in comparison with freshly laid BC/CC where you'd expect to see a real difference...only time will tell how either would look under similar use after such a long time. BUT:

One reason that i was OK with centari when we were deciding details is because my father in law painted my '71 pontiac with it (white, no clear over top) about 10 years ago, for his friend whom i bought it from much later....never sanded it, just sprayed and buffed it, and it still looks sharp to this day, despite abuse in my shop (cutting grinding dust and overspray on it for 2 years of work on different projects, etc. i've learned my lesson there!)

Now part of that is because these vehicles don't get driven like daily drivers and i get that, but part of me believes that enamel is good paint, just less margin for error (especially with metallics) and people like to use whatever is easier.

Also, another part of me believes that the clear over top will provide a lot in terms of protection and color protection as well as a large margin of error come wetsand and polish/buff time. There are great, expensive paint jobs that were done 20 years ago with enamel that look amazing. I just don't think people want to do the work with enamel and want to use easier to work with paint. I think the $150 to clear it in addition to paint is WELL WORTH it for insurance, sanding error room, looks, fixes issues while painting, etc, etc.

I don't mind trading effort and prep for savings in paint (and it really wasn't about saving the money, as much as playing with a paint that my father in law was comfortable with and me getting to experiment with different mixtures and trying the clear.), and after wetsanding and buffing, i honestly don't think the *average* BC/CC paint job will hold a candle to what we've done, and i can't wait to see the look on people's faces when they hear it's enamel.

That being said, i wouldn't do any of this: a) without clear: it just looks better, better protection, cheap insurance, and fixes the paint you just laid if it's orange peeling a bit from mixture, humidity, etc. and b) metallics, enamel metallic mistakes aren't pretty and are a PITA to fix.

You can see it still has good reflection after my terrible abuse, and all it has had after was a good scrubbing and another detailing:


http://imageshack.us/a/img444/5362/2...4131849395.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img818/8868/2...4131837322.jpg

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

i too am a fan of centari and even the nason version works for me. i prefer not to clear coat for reasons of touchups and repair. my method is to lay on 9 - 12 coats of enamel with hardner. thats 3 wet coats at a time and sand it smooth then 3 more wet coats... till color sanding and final buffing.

to me its not really the painting, its all about prep and polish. and if you drive your truck a lot, its also about re-touch.

sorry to hijack the discussion, just .2 from one of the geezers

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Paint looks great, lovin' the color combo!!!:metal:

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thanks guys and yes clem, i agree, it's the before and after work that makes a big difference. Here's a shot from another forum, centari black, no clear, just painted, then lots of wetsanding, some polishing, hand wax....it's an amazing finish:

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...esspics005.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...esspics007.jpg

And here is the thread with more discussion on that (one of many around the internet with 8000 opinions):

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...anding-buffing

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Wetsanded and painted interior of doors today...give it a day or two and start putting the latches, etc back into them. Will probably hang them first, since they'll be lighter.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

your doing some super clean work man!!! keep it up

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thanks!

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Fantastic work man:metal:

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Whoever is telling you that Centauri is cheap and not that great is 1000% wrong. To me, if you're shooting a solid color, single stage is the best way to go. Base/Clear is great for metallics and pearls because they need the clear coat for encapsulation and protection. I like BCC paints, but only a few companies produce a clear that doesn't have a yellow or grayish cast after it's put down. Take a look at some of the BCC black paints and compare them to the single stage black paints. The BCC paints are not even close to being as deep and rich.

The newer, water borne Centauri was looked down upon when it came to market in it's re-formulated version. That is, until people started using it and realized that it performed extremely well. Don't be fooled by water-borne paint, folks! People often misquote it as "water-based", and that's a misnomer. The "water-borne" term needs to be thought of like the term "airborne". The paint does not use solvents to thin, suspend, and dispense like paints of old. It uses water instead. The EPA determined that the VOCs that were being expelled during the drying process by the solvent-based paints was at a harmful level, so they designed a paint that used water instead of solvent.

I think your choice of using Centauri was an excellent one. That's what I would have used.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Before I go, I have to give my main reason for being a huge fan of Centari, My buddy bought this truck new in 1979. He owns a body shop and didn't like the factory black paint, so he stripped it down and shot it in Centauri in 1979.

See for yourself. The paint is 34 years old and still shines like glass. Don't think for a second that this is a pampered garage queen, either. It was a daily driver for years, and it used to tow their boat to the river for years until they sold the boat in the '90s. After that, the truck got a nasty 406 with two stages of nitrous and ran as fast as a 10.63. It used to 60ft at 1.62. Launching a 4400lb tank with no roll cage and slicks that hard will twist a truck badly, and the paint still looks nice. A few battle scars, but thats to be expected
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...onshots022.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...onshots023.jpg

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Wow, that's a sharp truck! And thats a lot of wear and tear for that paint to still look that good. Mine probably won't be driven that hard.

Just hung the doors tonight, happy with how it's coming together.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

I just stumbled across your build and I must say you've done an outstanding job for not being a pro body man. It gives me inspiration though mine won't ever be that nice. I simply don't have the tools or space to dedicate to doing just 1 truck.

I'm glad you devoted so much time in documenting the removal of the roof section. I have some rust above the windshield and rood panel and, not being a body man myself either, was scratching my head as to how to fix that panel correctly along with the removal of the rust that hasn't come thru yet. The added insulation and sound deadening is just the bonus I needed to decide that my truck needs the same process applied.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thank you for the compliments, and you see how bad i butchered my seam areas and they've come out great. The trick is to remove as little metal as possible. If you remove the roof skin and spotweld it back on, the welds you drilled out will leave little holes into the inner roof area. That's not an issue once seam sealer gets in there, BUT if you use the self leveling stuff, as it stiffens and flows into those holes, it leaves dimples in the surface of the seam sealer. My recommendation would be either mig weld to fill the metal you removed drilling out spot welds, or spotweld between the old welds but then put a thin coating of epoxy or seam sealer down first, real thin, like 1/16 inch, to fill those holes, so that when you put the leveling seam sealer in it doesn't flow down in some and dimple. Also, if you can weld, you can replace the upper windshield panel with a new one since your windshield will be out and the roof off. I'd weld fill it and shape it like i did, it looks great and eliminates a water entry area. The side seams i'd fill where the clips are too, but they're tougher because you need to build up metal there and they didn't come out as clean for me.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Should say, the dimpling is not a problem, and it still looks great, but if you want it to look as good as aero posted, you can't have the stuff flowing down into anything as it cures. Also, don't get any areas too hot welding that roof back in, if you have that insulation in there...i constantly ran my hand around the edge checking for hot spots to be sure there was no fire inside the roof.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

LoL ... dimples in my seam sealer is the least of my problems! This is going to be a driver and if they see my dimples they better get off my roof anyways ... I just want to get the rust stopped so it doesn't get any worse.

Thanks for the advice!

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Did the black stripes around the door panel today, and put the insulation inside the door skins. Just need to do the inside of the door panels, and i should be done with the insulation altogether now.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Got some parts in today, put some more insulation on the backs of the door panels, put the door plugs in (the two black round ones) and going to start re-assembling the door guts tomorrow and this weekend.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Truck is looking great...This is Going to a Super Sweet Ride... My favorite color combo w/ custom trim and BBW..... How did you prep inside doors for your sound deadener?

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thanks!

I wiped them down with thinner and alcohol (whichever spray bottle was closest.) I did have some problems with it biting well because it's hard to clean in there, and i had to remove the first one and realized then i had to do it in two vertical halves so i pulled it back out and did it again, so it took some tack off. What i did, was put some RTV on a bondo spreader and smear the inside of the door that was giving me issues. I checked today and it is on there forever. Also, inside the cabs when i realized i had a dirty area where it wasn't sticking, i used a can of 3m spray trim adhesive. It kind of melts the black tar stuff a bit and is sticky too, those areas bound right up also when i checked the next day. 99% of the build though, it stuck no problem and gripped tight. The best so far though, was the very thin coating of RTV. It doesn't peel back or budge off that door panel AT ALL.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thanks for the reply.... Doors are one of the hardest parts of the build I think...I am Working on blazer doors and I have to strip undercoating off the inside 1st...Kerosene is the only thing that I found for that so far.... My 1st truck was a 66 1 ton long bed. This is like a Cadillac version of that truck....

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

I can tell you, i cut my arms up pretty good working in that one access hole, and had cleaner and rtv all over my arms...but it'll be worth it in the end for sure.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Disassembled the vent windows and window glass tracks, cleaned, painted those parts so i can do glass setting tomorrow. Also put the latches back in the doors/jambs, and the door bumpers in, vertical glass track installed, and put the door catches in that keep the door from opening too far.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Your are Flyin' through this thing!
Looking Sweet

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

I did hit a snag for today's work...no glass setting tape around anywhere local. Will have to order some after trying a couple more places...guess i could start sanding them fenders down!

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Got windows,etc in today but window fuzzies clips broke off 2 out of 4 on one fuzzie (precision brand, rest of gaskets seemed nice) and prevent the window from rolling up all the way as others here have mentioned.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Did more door assembly today. Need to figure out the window fuzzies situation, but hey progress is progress! Working my way through the pile of parts.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Very nice work!
I am truly impressed!!!

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thanks! I have to say, it feels good to get some of these parts bolted on that have been sitting here for months, before i even decided to paint the exterior at all.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

looks like original green glass... that will look great with your color choices.
she looks great... very nice detail.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thank you. That was the color that was in the truck (i believe because it was factory AC they got that color) and i agree, i think it will go with the color on the truck well. I need to order a windshield and back window and have them installed (i really don't want to do either myself and break a window or chip paint) then that pretty much seals up the cab except for the window fuzzies and door jamb weatherstrip, which i'll try to get on before the end of the week.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

sill plates and weatherstripping in, what a difference! ad to bring the hinge out on the drivers door slightly, passenger door closed no issue, both are nice and tight.

I didn't glue the weatherstrip on, it grabbed on tight (precision brand) and i put the sill plates in. It hasn't budged. If it does in the future, i'll glue it in some spots to hold it.

Inside the cab, the flange didn't reach as far over my panel repairs on the inner BBW panel as i've hoped, so you see some of them peeking out from under the gasket. No biggie as it's not a noticeable area and too late to work on now, but one of those things you'll think of now and again.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

:agree:

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

very nice!! congrats

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Thanks guys! I'm at a standstill for probably the rest of the week since busy, but hope to get back on it this weekend, likely fenders and header panel and hood.

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

Put the new rubber cab mounts in so far today (good thing, because previous owners had replaced parts with and without washers, etc.) I used the OEM bolts in the back since the new were bigger and wanted a nut on top, and the top of the floor already has one welded in.

Also put the stronger u-bolts in the front lower control arms (they were help brand/dorman, grade 8, i think they're $15 a set, which is cheaper than a lot of other places.)

Taking a break and then going to start sanding the fenders down and filling the seams on them with seam sealer (i want them as smooth as the header panel crease around the headlights, from the factory they're deeper as it's 2 pieces of sheet metal.

Maybe get the grille support panel, fenders, and cowl vent/wiper panel painted this week, and i can put new washer motor mounts, seal, washer kit, etc in and tie up that area (or wait until windshield guy puts windshield in...hrmm)

Re: '66 Longbed 327 w/AC project
 

After priming the front sheetmetal, i got caught up working on another car, then had a week off with the family. So, blasted the metal brackets and buckets for the headlights, got some stainless hardware and new springs, adjusters, etc and assembled the grille to feel like i made progress and to use up some parts. Here's the work and a pic of it in its new home until i need it.

Also, got the white/black portion of the header panel and fenders wetsanded so i can get those colors on, then do the green on them and they'll be done. Other than the hood and washer/cowl panel, down to the bed, which i don't plan on touching until everything else is done on the truck.