Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Next up was the actual bracket that would be the mounting point for the belt. Again I would use this for additional structural support of the pillar extensions. So I cut another access hole through the inside of the door jam right above the center rib this would let the bracket sit directly on top of the rib and get welded to it as well.. This would again allow me to slide the bracket in from the front side and also give me a welding point to fasten it to the jam.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps551327dc.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7d507f65.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps7d8f0118.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps94e7c797.jpg[/URL] Once I had the bracket in the hole I could tack it in place take it out and do the final welding of it. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psb068905c.jpg[/URL] So the last thing I got done today was drilling all the holes for the plug welds. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1e6b8ff9.jpg[/URL] So to re-cap.....the pillar extension will get welded the full length along the seam of the factory pillar. Then it will get plug welded through all the holes I made in the factory pillar. Then I will weld all the ribbing and the bracket to the inside of the door jam. Overkill perhaps, but I don't think it will fold forward as easy. I guess in the event of an accident I will probably only be a vegetable instead of pushing up daisies!:lol: |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
That looks good ,but the only thing I would do different is to do half inc stitch welds with half in gaps between the welds. I think it will actually be stronger as the welds will hold it in place and the unwelded areas will be stronger. When you weld sheet metal the weld is strong but it actually makes the metal next to the weld the weak point. The only place you will find a continuous weld in factory construction in a boxed frame section.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Excellent idea for the upper anchor for the belts.
As we found out after we had the seat installed in the 46 and siting behind the wheel, the upper belt was hitting my chin when seated in a driving position. So the fix was to remove the window panel and re locate the upper anchor down a bit and more towards the rear window. The position of the belt is now in a better feeling spot across my shoulder. I love doing things twice!!! |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
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What size front tires and wheels are you running? What is your track width on the front? How much clearance from the tire to the bar did you end up with the new offset sway bar? How does your front tires set under the fender, could you have used a wider track front end (A-arms)? Thanks |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
If the steering doesn't return you need to add more caster to the front end.It will also cause the truck to try to wander instead of running straight. If you had moved the upper ball joint to the rear with either adjustment or tilting the front clip to the rear it would correct it. I think replacing the pacer clip is a good idea if for no other reason I would worry about availability of parts for that old rack. It doesn't look like the p.o spent a lot of time making it look like it belonged there.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Wow been a lounge time since i updated! I kind of got help up back in February. We had so much snow piled up (from the 14 times we got our driveway plowed this winter), that every day the snow would melt, run under the side door to the garage, and then freeze over night. I had a 2 inch thick slab of ice covering the entire garage floor. In fact it was so bad, the dolley that my cab is on was frozen fast to the floor so I couldn't move it.
The only good thing that come about from the terrible winter was that I could spend some much needed time on my other hobby (see post 77). I tell ya if you ever have the desire to spend money chasing gremlins and hot rods just ain't doing it for you.....buy a salt water reef tank, UGH! Anyways I digress, When I last posted I was working on the seat belts. Well I got that all squared away and I have to say turned out better then expected. Next up, now that the weather is better here in Nj was the bottom of the cab. I decided to get the old girl down off the dolley and give the bottom a good scraping and undercoating. After about 6 hours of scraping, wire brushing, sanding, cleaning, and of course drinking.....I had the bottom ready to go. Of course as you can see somebody has worked on the underside previous to me. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psnyxq5pqc.jpg[/URL] I gave the ole girl 2 good coats of this stuff along with the inside of the rocker panels http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psdql3fnk0.jpg[/URL] Looks pretty good or at least better then it did...... http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psxshidcyl.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psuv8wwzya.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psvrvwuvkt.jpg[/URL] |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
So now at this point I figured it was getting close to a time when I would have to decide if I was going to repaint the truck or not. My options were.........
1. Just hit the repaired portion of the back of the cab with red oxide and throw it back together as is and look past all the other problems it has. 2. Just scuff the whole truck and repaint entirely with another coat of red oxide primer. 3. Address the issues that all the previous owners neglected to do, strip, prime, and paint. So seeing as how I am starting to get really burned out messing with this truck, (remember I only bought it hoping to have something to tinker with on the weekends), I decided to just scuff the whole truck and give it another shot of primer and call it done. However, that was until my good buddy came over and started to poke around a little more and started to find some stuff that just couldn't be left un-repaired. Soooooooo 2 weeks and about $500 later here is where I am at. I must have removed about 75 Lbs. of body filler. In some spots were it was needed it was about 1" deep:m7:. In the spots were it wasn't needed it was only 1/2" deep:lol: |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
anybody know if there is 1 piece windshields for the 39-47 like there are for the advanced design trucks?
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
So after removing the 75 Lbs. of $&%# from all the other hacks, my buddy and I addressed the issues as best we could and proceeded to put only about 10 Lbs. of putty back on.
This is a pic of the back of the cab after we did the re-inforcing of the back panel. who ever did the original body work completely puttied in the style line across the back so we ground it back out. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psacxrjfmp.jpg[/URL] Upon closer review, we discovered what we thought was the paint bubbling up on the top of the cab, so we started to grind away only to find surface rust under the original coat of filler. Ground off the top of the cab and cleaned off all the rust. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psppsaplgq.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps4xaoctg7.jpg[/URL] Re-worked the doors, I won't even begin to tell you what kind of a mess we found under the filler on these. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psnvywsshn.jpg[/URL] Sanded and sanded and sanded until me, the wife, my 2 daughters, and Mr. Magoo had dust in places we didn't know we had:lol: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pssggulob7.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pssr0jxps1.jpg[/URL] I have another day or so of sanding and cleaning up the cab and then it will be ready for primer. In the meantime, I am going to hop on my 4 wheeler and go on a beer run for me and Goo Be Doo http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps34hecovr.jpg[/URL] |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
I have seen the one piece windshields on ebay for 1939-46 trucks before so I know that they exist. I was going to get one for my truck but I waited too long and they sold them out. I wish I could remember what the name of the company was.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Yeah, they aren't cheap! I thinks that's why I waited too long!! Gave me an excuse not to buy one :)
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
pretty self explanatory here......2k primer........
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psrp7ct89f.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pso2slsono.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps3muha8x4.jpg[/URL] I think it turned out 1000% better then expected. Not perfect but far better then that 1/2 azzed band aid I had n the back of the cab. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pswinxdct8.jpg[/URL] |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Looks great ,nice work. Now what color are we going for?
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Looking good. Any colors picked yet?
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
this is what I am shooting http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pssgrkkhcd.jpg[/URL]
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That will look awesome.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
I really dig your color choices. Black is always going to be my favorite but another color would be nice to see. Great progress.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Anybody know what the hell the 2 holes next to my door handle holes are for??? I have looked a a ton of other 46's, and none of them have these holes. They almost look like they are for another trim piece that would snap in place around the door handle???
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pshb1yuc72.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps40frlsee.jpg[/URL] |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
I've never seen holes beside the handles like that before. I doubt that they are supposed to be there.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Not sure what the holes would be for. not factory.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
So I was planning on proving to you guys that a 53 year old man can still Yank his crank.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps1pgiiqoy.jpg[/URL] But after spending nearly 2 hours trying to Yank my crank (in the privacy of my own garage mind you), I failed miserably. I thought perhaps I was getting to old....I finally ended up going to a transmission shop to have them help me Yank my crank. Only to find out that I was trying to Yank my crank with a converter for a 4L60e Trans. Instead of a 700R4. So now i will have to wait about 2 weeks until i can try and Yank my crank again.:metal: Sorry I just had to do it..... |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
And the problems keep on coming......While I am waiting for Yank to send the right converter I decided to pull my windshield glass out so I can paint the frame. Well here's how it went spent all afternoon trying to get the 2 sides of the frame pulled apart from the dowel pins with no success. From what I have read on the web, it seems my dowels are rust frozen on the inside of the frame.
From what I have read over on stovebolt, I can cut out a section in the back of the frame to allow access to the dowels and then hopefully be able to pry them out. Then weld patches back in place to fill the holes. Has anybody run into this problem? I certainly don't feel like spending 500 on a new frame.:m7: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps5evkna07.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psxtpxmm1y.jpg[/URL] In the meantime the paint man keeps on blocking and primming, blocking and priming etc. etc. etc. |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Mine was frozen too. If I remember right, I bought the replacement inserts, cut the frame at the v to try to get better access. I then tried to tap on the inserts to break them free. This didn't work, but they would only go back farther in the frame, so I drove them all the way inside the frame until they were out of the way, put the new inserts in, screwed them together, and I was done. This is the way I done it, it worked for me, maybe it can work for you.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
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Cut dowel pin: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psam3pwcgr.jpg[/URL] Bye bye: http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psh8bdhxhh.jpg[/URL] |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
I'll have to remember that one! Mine are rusted in there too.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Glad I could help guys. The one that came with my cab was all rusted out, so I found another one at Hershey. Paid $100.00 for it, then it was frozen there, and it had to come apart for the new windows. I was about sick thinking I wasted 100 bucks, and seeing what a new one would cost. So we all ended up happy!
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Crank is Yanked. Wow if feels like I am over the hump and things are starting to go back together. Thanks to Dave Myers out at Yank converters, I had the proper converter sent to me within a week. As previously mentioned the first converter they sent me was for a 4L60E, and after numerous attempts I could not get the converter to set into the pump splines. Well the new one dropped right in on the first attempt!!!!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psqvwm6ujx.jpg[/URL] So that meant I was able to free up a lot of space in the garage by getting the motor in!!!!!!!!!!!! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps2hl7rjdd.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psu75vqcxa.jpg[/URL] There's a lot of talk about just how to get a flex plate, state and auto trans hooked up to an inline six. Here's how I did it. My motor is from a 70 or 71 milk truck which meant I had the larger 1/2" crank flange holes. So I took a TCI 168 tooth dual pattern flex plate and had the motor shop open up the 7/16 the hole to the proper size. Then I used a CSR mini starter with the straight across bolt pattern. Done! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pshj5wccd2.jpg[/URL] The other hurdle I had to overcome was the tranny cross member. When I was doing the mock up of the motor mounts I just couldn't find a cross member with the right drop and fit I wanted to get the correct angle of the drive shaft. After crawling under the truck a 100 times with the cab on,just to be frustrated, I figured I would deal with the problem when I was at this stage. So I ended up chopping up 2 cross members that I had laying around to make the one I wanted. This one will give me the 3 degrees down angle on the motor, clears the master cylinder (with a wack from a big hammer:lol:), and gives me a nice opening to run my exhaust pipes through. I know the cross member looks to low to the ground in this pic but it's just the angle of the photo. I actual have about 10 inches of clearance. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psxobkitzy.jpg[/URL] The other hurdle I have to overcome is the header pipe that go under the oil pan to the passenger side of the truck. When I did the mock up I used a 250 block assuming that is what I was going to use. Then I landed the 292 after I had the pipes made. Seeing as how the block is 2" taller on the 292 and the oil pan is different, it means I have a bit of a clearance issue with the pipe and oil pan. The pipe doesn't hit the pan it's just real close (about an inch of clearance) it will work it's just kind of close and I am concerned with the heat from the pipe getting the oil in the pan to hot. I guess I will just get a new pipe made. maybe I am over thinking it. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psfw2n2q2y.jpg[/URL] Now that the motor is in, I now have a bunch of work I can get done. Trans cooler and lines Shorten, or get a new drive shaft made Power steering and Alt brackets........Which may be a big issue. meanwhile putty, block sand, putty, block sand, putty, block sand..................... |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
lookin good.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Is there a way you can make a heat shield over part of the collector?
How about some "ugly" wrap, you will not be able to see it under the truck I love that part of the build coming together, final assembly |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
So i starte mocking up my exhaust system. Since I went through all the trouble of getting stainless headers made I figure it would be stupid not to get the exhaust done in stainless as well. Originally I planned on having them made local. However since having the headers made a year ago, Stainless Inc. is now doing exhausts as well. So it is pretty much the same procedure. Mock up what you want in PVC, send it to them, and in a few weeks you have a cherry exhaust system. Not sure what muffs I am going to run yet I am leaning towards either 2 Porters, 1 Porter 1 straight pipe, or 2 Borla Spitfires and end the pipes just before the rear end. Ugh analysis is paralysis!!!! So heres some pics of what I am wanting.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psfnfhlbso.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pslfducjfl.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psld22fair.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psbvfuzelq.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psvpmquryz.jpg[/URL] |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Well.....from buying this truck just to tinker with on the weekends to a full blown, frame off, rebuild. Damn, this body work crap is a lot of work!!!:lol: I now have everything puttied,block sanded, and 3 coats of epoxy primer. I still have a bazillion micro scratches so I guess now it's onto sanding and shooting some high build primer. Body men are worth every friggin dollar, and then a $500 tip!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...pstpdljmn3.jpg[/URL] http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psvdo9bctm.jpg[/URL] Here's how I have my shop set up for spraying. I have a tarp in the center of the garage to allow fresh air to be pulled in from one side and around to the other to exhaust out the other. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps6uwqw3n9.jpg[/URL] Fresh air sucked in through the left door and blown out through the right by a fan. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps8trhnlxa.jpg[/URL] heres the fan drawing air out of the spray zone. I used AC filters to keep the over spray from going out and onto the entire neighborhood. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps9fo6ciqv.jpg[/URL] |
Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
Lookin good.
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Re: 46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"
I am sure 500 is not enough even when you pay a thousands for a paint job!
For those who have finished a complete body off, can you put the running boards and splash aprons on after the front and rear fenders and bed is in place? |
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