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Nice work. Are you willing to provide any more detail on how you made the reveals (gaps) so consistent?
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Nicely done.
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Another one of the little details that I tend to do on many of my builds is to shave the drip rails. However, rather than go completely smooth and not have anything, I weld on round stock on the gutters place. Once fully welded and then body worked it will have a nice molded look to it and leave a nicer looking detail than the factory gutter.
In these pics I already cut off the gutter, which is only spot welded on the inside of the door jamb area. I then cleaned up the surrounding area with a 80 grit Roloc disc on an angle grinder. I then ran to my local supply house and bought two 6' lengths of 1/4" round stock. To form the curve at the top rear of the cab window I heated up the bar and bent it around my welding gas bottle. The radius was very close to what I needed. Slowly I heated the rest and bent it to match the other curves. I then tack welded it in a few spots on the rear most vertical area, and then continued all the way around and down the A pillar. Now that I'm happy with this I will weld her up solid and grind the welds smooth. After the cab goes into epoxy I will body work the area for a super smooth transition. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/03/IMG_6025.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/03/IMG_6021.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/03/IMG_6026.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/03/IMG_6023.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/03/IMG_6022.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/03/IMG_6024.md.jpg |
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It is funny how sometimes when you go out into the shop with a plan, you have to pivot and do something different for one reason or another.
In order to do the final gaps on the truck I need to rebuild the hinges. So I went out yesterday with the intention of removing the passenger door and taking out the hinges and rebuilding them. I got the top one done without any issues. The bottom one fought me tooth and nail. No matter what I tried I just could not get the pin out of the hinge. That fight will live on for another day. While the door was off and on a scissor stand though I decided to make the best of it. I made a small filler patch and then proceeded to weld up the hole for the door lock. With that made and fitted nice and tight I tacked it in place, then fully welded it. Then ground the welds smooth on the outside. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6174.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6176.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6180.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6181.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6184.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6185.md.jpg |
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With that small job done, I decided to go a little further and make the mounting plate that you get with the Altman latches fit flush and welded it in place rather than bolt on. This to me will give a better look after blending in with body work and make it look as though it came this way from the factory and not look like just a bolt on.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6177.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6178.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6182.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/16/IMG_6183.md.jpg |
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props on the sheet metal work, that stuff is tough. what wire do you use?
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I don't have much to show this week for progress. However, I did want to share this pic of the products that I received this week from PPG for my truck.
Any guesses on the value of whats in this picture at retail? From left to right: One gallon of DAS3057 dark grey sealer and its corresponding hardeners. One gallon of F4921BK black epoxy and its hardeners. This is a thin epoxy that I will use to go over the bare metal after stripping everything. From PPG's Delfleet line, this is by far their best epoxy. Throw away any DP-LF you have and switch to this. It's way better. Three gallons of DT895 high temp reducer. Two gallons of D8152 glamour clear from their Global line and the related hardeners. I was part of field trials with this product when it was first released back in the mid 2000's. Only clear I have used since. Show car quality every time. One gallon Deltron DBC basecoat of the color. Another 1.5 gallons of this not pictured. Not pictured is two gallons of the primer surfacer I already put away. I also have a full gallon of the tan color for the interior as well as six quarts of the D8115 and D8117 matte clears from PPG for the interior. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/04/30/IMG_6239.md.jpg . |
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no clue what it's worth in Canada, but more than USD for sure.
this ties in well with another thread about removing old paint and rust. thanks for your comments there as well as the actual pics of the products here. |
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This picture and these products right he, plus two gallons of primer surfacer and their associated hardeners came with a sticker price of just shy of $5k. And that's with a 25% discount as well. Now I am more than grateful that I didn't pay for it, thank goodness for relationships and having people respect what you do and want to support my project. . |
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These prices may signal the end of the hobby for all but the wealthy.
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These are all in the Premium category for PPG. However they, like all paint companies have what I would good, if not very good Value line products. |
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well, if your friends and sponsors are looking to support another candidate.....haha
nice when things work out. |
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Sometimes life gets in the way and you have to take a break from the project. I'm usually pretty good about getting in some time out there each week or so. But this break took longer as I have not been in the shop since April 15th. School is now out for the summer and I will have a chance to make up for lost time.
Monday I walked into a mess and couldn't take it. Ever heard the comment, "Sometimes you have to stop and smell the roses"? Well, this to me was a car guy's version of that. "sometimes you have to stop and clean the garage" I pulled everything that was easily mobile outside into the driveway. I swept, scrubbed and cleaned. The I washed the floor and after it was dry I moved the chassis from its spot against the wall to now in an open bay and up on stands to plumb it. And now back to our regularly scheduled programming. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/21/IMG_6574.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/21/IMG_6580.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/21/IMG_6581.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/21/IMG_6582.md.jpg |
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Definitely helps to stop and clean along the way. The mess tends to grow otherwise. Looking forward to updates.
Marc |
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Looks good. No matter how i clean up my shop it magically returns to its former cluttered self.
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Glenn, the shop is looking good.
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I sold the old bed that I had. With the change of directions going from a patina build to goiing deep I decided it would take far too long to make the other one right for my plans. I did keep the tailgate from the original bed and decided to make a wall hanging out of it. It has a cool vive and has lots of history so I didn't want to let it go. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6623.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6624.md.jpg The guys at Apicella Design made me a good deal on a new Mar-K bed and with it I got a few things that Apicella makes for the bed. They make this cool filler piece that finishes off the inside of Mar-K tailgate and boxes/frames the Chevrolet script. As it comes..... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6603.md.jpg And with the filler panel...... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6602.md.jpg Today I decided to start on some little projects that all need to get done prior to stripping the cab and priming it with epoxy. I wanted to figure out a way to mount the Painless wiring harness. So I used some poster board and made a template. I then transferred it to some 18g metal I have. I drilled some mouting holes and welded some nuts to the back side for the fuse block. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6646.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6645.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6647.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6649.md.jpg I then took some thread couplers and stacked a pair and welded them together, I also cut a couple short. The bracket now bolts to the couplers with four 5/16's bolts. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6651.md.jpg I then found the spot to put it that was clear of everything and tack welded the couplers to the firewall. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6652.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6653.md.jpg With the bracket removed I was able to fullt weld the couplers to the firewall. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6654.md.jpg And here is what it will look like when the harness is finally installed. Up out of the way and slightly angled down for easier access to fuses when the need arises. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6656.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/26/IMG_6657.md.jpg |
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Sometimes I go down the rabbit hole.....
I started working on the door gaps yesterday. It was during this that I started looking at the way the new rotory door latch panels fit the door and the cab. I decided I didn't want it to have that bolt on look, so I cut out the diir jamb area and made a panel to replace it. My expectation is that when all down, molded in and painted it will look as if this is how Chevrolet made the truck and not as an afterthought. Working on gaps... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6665.md.jpg The plate we have all seen that comes with the Altmen latch kit. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6669.md.jpg Not liking that bolt on look I removed the bracket and decided there had to be a better way. So I cut this area out and prepped it for welding. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6668.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6673.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6674.md.jpg Using posterboard I made a template and then fabbed this out of some steel I had around. I then welded the panel to the jamb and ground the welds smooth. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6678.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6679.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6680.md.jpg |
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Now it was time to do the same to the door. While there is absolutely nothing wrong with having these panels as a bolt on, I wanted them to blend more. Since I have the tools and abilty this is my route. I sprayed some aerosol primer around the edges so I could know exactly where to trim the door to.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6681.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6682.md.jpg Once the area was trimmed I was able to prep it for welding as well. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6683.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6684.md.jpg And with the welds ground and smooth it looks as though GM made the door this way. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/06/29/IMG_6685.md.jpg |
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Nice work.
I like how it looks, so how will you locate the post on the frame? |
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I do plan on going slightly oversized on the hole so there is some adjustment on the post as well. |
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nice work and planning.
I like the plan with the aerosol primer sprayed over to see the outline. I did that on my roof where I needed to cut a straight line across. I used a string to make the line straight between 2 points, then sprayed over the string. when removed it left an unpainted spot where the string was. like you snapped a stringline there. great line to cut along with a zip disc, a metalmax disc or whatever tool that cuts without burning the paint off |
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I have been planning on sending all the sheetmeatl out for media blast. The local place is scheduled out about 3 weeks. So I got to thinking, I can d/a strip ot in far less time so why spend around a grand and wait. I have a Festool vacuum sander and a few boxes of 80 grit 3M Cubitron sand paper, so this moring I started.
So far things don't look too bad as I was hoping. The only thing I will need to do is a left side cowl panel replacement that I wasn't expecting. But once all the filler came off there was some nasty hiding that could be fixed, but far easier and the better repair to just replace the panel. Some in progress pics.... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6710.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6711.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6712.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6713.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6714.md.jpg |
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Festool's are nice. Moving forward.
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And here is the worst, and I guess most unexpected part found after going to bare metal.
As I said in the last post, I have already prdered the side cowl piece. For the top of the cowl I will cut out all that ugly and fab up a new piece. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6716.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6717.md.jpg Now I have a good understanding of what this piece was doing under the dash. They must have used it as a support for the crap brazing on the top of the cowl. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/03/IMG_6718.md.jpg |
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I like those strip it discs for that too. Just be careful not to overheat a spot.
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Todays adventure in the sjop was to strip the hood inside and out. Still some detail areas to get to under the hood, but all in all it's done. I'm pleased with the condition of the hood.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/04/IMG_6723.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/04/IMG_6724.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/04/IMG_6725.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/04/IMG_6727.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/04/IMG_6728.md.jpg I then jumped back on the door. I had already gotten most of the paint off but then I hit a fairly large area of body filler. This became a huge disappointment. It appears as though someone in the past decided to "fix" the dents by drilling holes and pulling. They then loaded the area with some mud that was still about a 1/4". Which makes me wonder how big the dent must havebeen if it was still this deep afterwards. These leaves me contemplating whether or not to fix it, or just get another door. All those worm holes would need to be plug welded up, all while dealing with any warpage and oil canning that is likely to surface. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/04/IMG_6732.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/04/IMG_6731.md.jpg |
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Fix it if it fits the truck.
Flatten the areas, get one of those step drill bits. Drill the holes all the same size. Then make yourself a punch die that side by getting a block of steel, slice a groove in one side wide enough for a piece of sheet metal to slip into, then drill a hole through the block at 90 degrees to that hole so when your sheet is in the slice you can use a pin punch that fits the drilled hole to punch out some circles for filler plugs. |
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I am more than likely going to fix it, however someone local to me happen to have a still in the box AMD door waiting to be used. So I now have it and hoping to try and see how well it fits before I move forward. |
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When I changed directions with the build and decided to go all in I sold off the old used, well worn bed. A few weeks ago I was dealing with Apicella Design about some of their own manufactured parts, at the same time I inquired about ordering a new bed from them. They made me a deal I couldn't pass up.
Today the Fed Ex Freight truck showed up with the new Mar-K bed. Sire I could have saved a couple hundred bucks on another brand, but the Mar-K products are stellar in fit, finish and everything in between. The metal thickness is good and heavy and it all comes in a nice galvanized coating. Just look at the way they box/crate their products. You can tell they go above and beyond. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/07/IMG_6747.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/07/IMG_6748.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/07/IMG_6753.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/07/IMG_6750.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/07/07/IMG_6751.md.jpg |
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nice.
doors, though, were fit to the truck along with the hinges so if possible use the old iron or at least try the fit on the new parts before you get rid of the old parts |
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Wow great work!!!! This truck is going to be awesome.
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