Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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So, I removed the inner cowl today to get rid of the rust problems. Seems the rubber that PO used to fill the wire run collected water underneath and rotted the firewall. I’ll have a fair amount of repair to do before installing the new metal. While I had the wire wheel on the grinder cleaning rust, I decided to start removing the undercoating or bedliner or whatever it is from the firewall. I ended the day looking like a coal miner, but glad to have made some progress. |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
That is never any fun, but what a difference already. Great job.
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Wow that looks like alot of work, it will all be worth it in the end, keep up the good work.
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So...... more damage than expected?
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Took a break from the messy cowl/firewall to deal with the messy engine. She was nice and clean on the inside, though. Can’t wait to get to the no gloves required, re-assembly part...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Oh yeah, I’m digging this:
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Thats gonna look good. I always toyed with the idea of making my LS look old school, Im excited to see it come together.
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Thank you for all the detailed post. I am in the same place with that inner cowl. Looking forward to your take on it.
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So cool! Everything looks great. Digging the engine ideas.
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Looking good!!
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Along for the ride.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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After chasing the elusive 9/16” grade 8 hex and 7/16” grade 5 carriage bolts all over town because my normal bolt supplier was closed for the holiday, I managed to get the new cab mounts installed. The old rubber ones had been previously replaced with LMC units and weren’t that bad, actually, but the core support bushings were pretty well shot. The cab has not been square on the frame since I’ve owned this truck, which caused misalignment issues with the bed, fenders, cowl, and hood. When I measured it, it was around 3/8” off side-to-side :eek: I figured while the truck is torn apart, it’s a good time to straighten it out and replace bushings. I greased the crap out of the Prothane mounts with Energy Suspension’s super gooey grease and torqued her down in the correct position. We'll see how much shimming it needs upon reassembly... |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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The valve cover adapters are for sale here, if anyone is interested:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753953 They sell for $200 plus new, these were only used for mock-up. Nothing wrong with them, just decided to go a different route. |
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Worked on tearing down the interior so I can continue with the firewall and cowl repairs. Figured now was as good a time as any to get the high hump cut out...
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In other news, I got the majority of the upper firewall rust taken care of and mocked-up the new inner cowl panel. It is a surprisingly good fit, but will need some massaging and smoothing (along with the firewall) before final install. |
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Looking good! I like your attention to detail. Keep up the good work! :metal:
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Nice work! Keep it up. Curious what your different route is for the valve covers. I have a set of those CFR adapters that I have plans to use in the future. Haven't brought myself to put them on yet though.
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My first time going from low-to-high and I want to make sure I do it right the first time. |
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The stock floor basically has a formed body line in the floor that pretty much can be used as the cutting guide. You want to leave enough material past the reference holes so there's a decent flange when bolting the hump. Really was pretty straight forward for both models. |
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