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-   -   How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=444746)

mcbassin 01-10-2018 05:16 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Awesome progress Chris! Everything looks great! :metal:

GAc10boy 01-10-2018 10:04 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 8157120)
I did this on my 68 & my 64. The high humps are slightly different for each series but the install was the same. I set the high hump over the stock floor & used a sharpie to reference mark the hole locations.

The stock floor basically has a formed body line in the floor that pretty much can be used as the cutting guide. You want to leave enough material past the reference holes so there's a decent flange when bolting the hump.

Really was pretty straight forward for both models.

Makes sense to me. I knew it would be fairly simple. Just wanted to make sure i was thinking about it the right way.

gringoloco 01-10-2018 11:52 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC (Post 8153075)
Looking good! I like your attention to detail. Keep up the good work! :metal:

Thanks for the motivation, I can use it to get past this rust repair and on to more fun stuff
Quote:

Originally Posted by knomadd (Post 8156986)
Nice work! Keep it up. Curious what your different route is for the valve covers. I have a set of those CFR adapters that I have plans to use in the future. Haven't brought myself to put them on yet though.

I liked the CFR pieces, but am reverting to a “delmo” style adapter and coil relocation. Just personal preference
Quote:

Originally Posted by GAc10boy (Post 8157025)
About to tackle this on my '68. Can you give me a little more detail in what tool you used to cut the floor and any tips you have to make sure it's right. Yours turned out great! Were your high hump bolt holes already in your floor or did you drill before you cut out low-hump?

My first time going from low-to-high and I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

Cut-off wheel on a grinder, follow the indent. I will likely weld in square nuts, ala factory
Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 8157120)
I did this on my 68 & my 64. The high humps are slightly different for each series but the install was the same. I set the high hump over the stock floor & used a sharpie to reference mark the hole locations.

The stock floor basically has a formed body line in the floor that pretty much can be used as the cutting guide. You want to leave enough material past the reference holes so there's a decent flange when bolting the hump.

Really was pretty straight forward for both models.

What he said, but I laid the hump in place and black spray painted the perimeter and holes
Quote:

Originally Posted by mcbassin (Post 8157261)
Awesome progress Chris! Everything looks great! :metal:

Thanks a lot! This snowball is really gaining some speed :lol:
Quote:

Originally Posted by GAc10boy (Post 8157491)
Makes sense to me. I knew it would be fairly simple. Just wanted to make sure i was thinking about it the right way.

You got it, super simple mod. Almost too easy...

nlped 01-15-2018 11:12 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Well, I just finished reading all 61 pages and I have gotta say... I really dig this truck!!! Looking forward to seeing it heading towards reassembly.

And, I had a PK Ripper back in the day (someone broke into our house and stole nothing but it out of my bedroom :( ). I got a Nomura Racing after that, but it just wasn't the same. I still have a Hutch and a Torker, both that I love to ride.

gringoloco 01-15-2018 12:13 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by nlped (Post 8161303)
Well, I just finished reading all 61 pages and I have gotta say... I really dig this truck!!! Looking forward to seeing it heading towards reassembly.

And, I had a PK Ripper back in the day (someone broke into our house and stole nothing but it out of my bedroom :( ). I got a Nomura Racing after that, but it just wasn't the same. I still have a Hutch and a Torker, both that I love to ride.

Thanks for tagging along! Look forward to some progress in the next few weeks. For now, I’m stockpiling parts and selling off a few things laying around to fund this ever-expanding endeavor.

I had a similar experience with my Hutch “lawsuit” bike. Pretty sure it was one of my asshat “friends” that made off with it. I loved that bike and the PK, but this Big Ripper is great for cruising with the kids. I have been eye-balling the Hutch re-release XL26, though...

CC69Rat 01-15-2018 07:31 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
I was always a Redline guy, I had several Haro Masters too. I used to be on a freestyle team actually.. :D. Back in tha DAY!.

rob32472 01-15-2018 08:22 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Haro, Redline, Hutch, Diamond back man that brings back some memories!

C10_ustacould 01-15-2018 09:31 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
1 Attachment(s)
A few years ago...

Attachment 1740491

gringoloco 01-16-2018 10:56 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by CC69Rat (Post 8161698)
I was always a Redline guy, I had several Haro Masters too. I used to be on a freestyle team actually.. :D. Back in tha DAY!.

Wow, super cool! I raced, never brave enough for the pipe. Peaked at 1st in state, 8th at grand nats. Ah, the glory days :lol:
Quote:

Originally Posted by rob32472 (Post 8161757)
Haro, Redline, Hutch, Diamond back man that brings back some memories!

Sweet memories, when toys were simpler (and cheaper!).
Quote:

Originally Posted by C10_ustacould (Post 8161837)
A few years ago...

Attachment 1740491

RAD! Is that a 24”?

gringoloco 01-16-2018 11:27 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
5 Attachment(s)
Minor progress this weekend, got the square nuts welded in for the high-hump and temp installed it. Loads more clearance! It may need to come out again for trans and shifter install and will receive a coat of sealer when it gets bolted down for the last time.

Also patched the inner-inner cowl (upper firewall?) panel, which had a bunch of pinholes and some larger rot. All clean metal now and coated in POR-15 semi-gloss :cool:

The infanti (eBay) firewall shave panels seem to fit well, but the blower hole in the new cowl is WAY off. No worries, the cowl panel will need a fair amount of work before install. The fit is actually really good, but it requires some cosmetic repairs, in my opinion :chevy:

nuke1 01-16-2018 10:01 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Truck is coming along awesome!!

nlped 01-16-2018 11:06 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 8161379)
Thanks for tagging along! Look forward to some progress in the next few weeks. For now, I’m stockpiling parts and selling off a few things laying around to fund this ever-expanding endeavor.

I had a similar experience with my Hutch “lawsuit” bike. Pretty sure it was one of my asshat “friends” that made off with it. I loved that bike and the PK, but this Big Ripper is great for cruising with the kids. I have been eye-balling the Hutch re-release XL26, though...

I totally understand the ‘stockpiling parts’... See attached pics

and I’m quite sure I know which di€kweed ‘friend’ aquired my Ripper. For my grown up bike, I have a 26” Specialized A-1 Competition Mountain bike (one of there first full suspension bikes).

C10_ustacould 01-16-2018 11:48 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by gringoloco (Post 8162198)
RAD! Is that a 24”?

Yep. 24" Supercross with a ton of AtomLab parts, sold it though. Still have a 20" Supercross MXP park/dirt bike. I really loved to ride BMX. Local track and skate park closed so bike just sits now.

Me riding the quarter pipe at the skate park in Tallahassee.
Attachment 1741004

Me (white shirt) with Greg Hill during a seminar at our local track quite a few years ago.
Attachment 1741005

The 20" jump bike.
Attachment 1741007

...sorry for cluttering up your thread.

gringoloco 01-16-2018 11:56 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by nuke1 (Post 8162795)
Truck is coming along awesome!!

Thanks! Hit a little bit of a roadblock today. Tried fitting an American Racing VN215 and the bore is too small to fit my Kore3 front brakes... Guess new wheels will have to wait for another time :whine:
Quote:

Originally Posted by nlped (Post 8162860)
I totally understand the ‘stockpiling parts’... See attached pics

and I’m quite sure I know which di€kweed ‘friend’ aquired my Ripper. For my grown up bike, I have a 26” Specialized A-1 Competition Mountain bike (one of there first full suspension bikes).

Hey, that looks familiar, though your shop is bigger (and brakes are nicer!).

Quote:

Originally Posted by C10_ustacould (Post 8162882)
Yep. 24" Supercross with a ton of AtomLab parts, sold it though. Still have a 20" Supercross MXP park/dirt bike. I really loved to ride BMX. Local track and skate park closed so bike just sits now...

...sorry for cluttering up your thread.

That sucks. You’d think Florida would be prime for tracks and parks. There 3 skate parks within a few miles of here and two tracks in the city (indoor and out). No clutter at all, bikes are another obsession. I’ve widdled it down to 8 bikes (and only four cars) for this five person family :lol:

gringoloco 01-22-2018 08:14 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
2 Attachment(s)
Ok, back to trucks. Made some progress stripping and shaving the firewall. Welded all of the unneeded small holes and the heater pass-through closed. The plan is for a ‘mild’ shave, which will retain the essentials and keep a somewhat stock but custom feel. We’ll see how it goes...

gringoloco 01-23-2018 04:15 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
1 Attachment(s)
Sa-mooooooth(ish)... all of the holes are filled. Waiting for my corner piece to arrive from an eBay seller before I call it done and ready for body work. In the meantime, the cowl panel needs some love before install :chevy:

smbrouss70 01-23-2018 04:26 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
The firewall looks great. That re-pop cowl looks a bit wrinkly in the corners, I'm assuming that's where you are going to be focusing your "love"?:hc:

Kronald_70GMC 01-23-2018 04:36 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Looking good! Im liking the cleaned up firewall.

gringoloco 01-23-2018 09:34 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by smbrouss70 (Post 8168367)
The firewall looks great. That re-pop cowl looks a bit wrinkly in the corners, I'm assuming that's where you are going to be focusing your "love"?:hc:

Yes, that, and the fact that it’s asembled from three spot-welded pieces as opposed to the factory one piece, as well as the fit being “somewhat close”, like most aftermarket panels. Shame it cost so flippin’ much, but it’s the only available option...

I spent some time today welding the three pieces of the cowl panel together as well as filling the blower hole. It still needs a bit more lovin’ before installation, but we’re getting closer
Quote:

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC (Post 8168378)
Looking good! Im liking the cleaned up firewall.

Thanks! I’m kinda digging it, too

darkhorse970 01-23-2018 09:44 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Firewall “smoothish” looks good!

gringoloco 01-23-2018 10:01 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by darkhorse970 (Post 8168615)
Firewall “smoothish” looks good!

Thanks, Keith! I’m ready to close the door on this and get back to the fun stuff

BustedTruck 01-24-2018 09:04 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Is there anything you can do to make the cowl fit better? I'm finding there is like a 1/4" keeping it from sitting flush around the curved areas. Just curious what you did in these areas.

gringoloco 01-25-2018 02:25 AM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by BustedTruck (Post 8169496)
Is there anything you can do to make the cowl fit better? I'm finding there is like a 1/4" keeping it from sitting flush around the curved areas. Just curious what you did in these areas.

I got it fitting pretty decent after quite a bit of massaging the flanges, trimming the inner structures, and eliminating the overlaps where the multiple pieces are spot welded together. My technique is to get it in place, then trim and hammer as needed to bend it to my will. Multiple installations and removals. Body hammers on the flanges and brute force. Self-drilling #10 screws also help to pull things into place (and hold it in place while I continued to hammer and plug weld). It would be fully installed now if I hadn’t run out of shielding gas...

knomadd 01-25-2018 12:27 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Looking good! I kinda wish I would have pulled my cowl apart now.

gringoloco 01-25-2018 04:15 PM

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by knomadd (Post 8169946)
Looking good! I kinda wish I would have pulled my cowl apart now.

I kinda wish I hadn’t :lol:


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