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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Hey bud... the holes in the fire wall for the vintage air... is that a panel or do you have to drill those? Thanks
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I'm past ready to get going with the LS3 install, so even though the frame isn't 100% just yet, I decided to mock up some stuff and just see how it all might fit... just in case the frame ever gets fixed. ;)
I needed some help getting the trans out of the shipping container and attached to the engine, so I called Scott and he was at the house before I could hang the phone up. Together we rassled the trans into position and dropped the assembly between the frame rails. I was pleasantly surprised to find that everything cleared all the obstructions and the Caddy oil pan doesn't hang below the front crossmember. The CPP sheetmetal towers and their adjustable motor mounts took some finessing to get into position, but I think once the frame is tweaked back into position, I shouldn't have to massage them too much to line up with the stock holes. I took some photos of Yeller one day when Vern dropped by, and I can tell I have my engine back about 1.5" to 2.0" from where Chip dropped theirs in. Since I plan to run an aftermarket front drive assembly, I have no need to worry about the stock A/C compressor location. My main concern at this point was to see if I could use my existing driveshaft without modifying it. I swapped out the yoke yesterday and it looks like it will fit perfectly. |
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The stock exhaust manifolds that come with the C&C package should work great. Normally I'd pop for headers, but I'm so over budget, I'm going to skip them for now. There are a few hiccups which is to be expected. The sheetmetal towers from CPP don't want to line up with the holes in the crossmember. Plus, the passenger side tower is lifted up off the frame rail somewhat. Hopefully, when the frame gets pulled back into position, some of the misalignment will self correct. If not, I have a BFH that will make it work.
The other thing that's a bit more unexpected is the CPP tubular transmission mount. I'm using an Energy Suspensions poly trans mount and when bolted up in the stock location, it appears that the rear of the trans is hanging down too far. I have a jack under it at the moment, and it could use a 3/4" spacer between the trans mount pad and the crossmember. Spacing it upward like that gets the transmission pan level and even with the frame rails. It also gets the driveshaft in a slightly better position where it goes thru the loop. Nothing is set in stone right now, so I'll have to measure the angles and see what's what later on. |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Glad that driveshaft is going to work out for you Vic.
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Mock up looks good Vic, it's a shame with whole frame tweak thing going on. I bet your ready to get her on the road!!!!
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Man Vic... that is looking GREAT!!!!....
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Looking great Vic! You'll be interested to know my whole alignment issue was a "Brain Fart" on my behalf....had the upper control arms swapped, right for left.
So, we'll try the alignment shop once again, this time should be a pretty quick visit! Your LS1 install looks to be a very straight forward process. Did they pre program the pcm for your engine mods, or do you have to take it somewhere for that? Have a great 4th!!!!! Ben :metal::flag::flag::flag::flag::flag::flag: |
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The LS setup came with a preprogrammed module and all I should have to do is hook it up. :haha: GM calls it Connect and Cruise, but there's a lot of little stuff that isn't included. However, the main components are. |
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It's all good! Happens, but you get back up and fix it. At least it's the cheaper
Solution than having to buy all new control arms! The money I spent on the alignment I lost, but hey! At least I got the problem solved and my tires will last A lot longer now! Now to fix that pesky alternator charging issue....:smoke: Have a good one! Ben :metal: |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Thanks... I know when you get that frame issue squared away the parts will be flying and that thing you're working on will be done in like 3 days lol
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New power plant looks right at in your frame Vic! Sweet!
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Vic when I installed the CPP sheet metal mounts they lined up perfectly, so yeah when you get your frame fixed you will be golden.
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Supermatic! To be truthful, we had a 350/700r4 in Yeller before, So I was running under the assumption that the transes were ballpark the same length. So I reused the driveshaft and set everything from there. Plus, y'all have no idea how bucks-down Yeller really is. We really didn't want to cut the shaft. Irony is, 6 months later I got one for $27 from PNP. Anyway, In hindsight, the motor'd be a lot closer to the firewall if I had it to do again. Looks killer, Vic!
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I called Leroy's Frame Works again yesterday and he assured me he hasn't forgotten me. He mentioned he'd been in the hospital a couple of days and was still catching up. |
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Set the cab in place on the frame and it looks like the engine placement will be fine. Maybe move it forward 1/4", but I need to fine tune the body mounts to know for sure. The coil covers miss the firewall by about 3/8" and it looks like the HydraStop unit will clear with no issues. There's plenty of room between the tunnel and the transmission also. Can't think of much else right off hand, but if something comes up, I'll deal with it at the time.
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Thanks for the props. Glad to see it all fits. I'm almost surprised you're not notching the firewall to get some of that good "racy" weight dist. They leave a nice generous pocket behind the motor, don't they?
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I've made an appointment for a week from Wednesday to finally get the frame straightened. Found some nice folks in Grain Valley with the equipment and willingness to put it back right. Fingers crossed that this is the one.
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Is it the Kustoms guy by I-70? Heard good things about them. Sorry Jim Didn't work out. Holler if you need to haul it.
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If you don't mind me asking what diameter driveshaft are you running and steel or aluminum
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Glad it is all coming together Vic... can't wait to see it rolling along again.
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