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Now I gotta watch just to see how "mater" turns out. Very cool.
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Here is the latest pic. I air brushed the chrome wheels to give it the "Mater" look. The wheels and tires aren't mounted yet. Just sitting there for a glamour shot |
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It's nearly impossible to wipe filler in these temps/humidity. We should be getting a break in temp/humidity soon. I want to get my bed done and painted by (this) winter. I need some extra cash to get me a MAr-K T/G. I need to get a dolly made so I can set the bed off. I don't want to hit the cab with a sander or weld splatter. Sorry for the lame post, just keeping the spirit alive. ;) The pic is from last night. After working all day in a 100+ degree shop then come home and cool off I couldn't stay out there last night. I hope to work on 198Plus cab, my bed and Shannon's cab if he will come out of the house after trying to get over his fishing trip this weekend. :lol:
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I know the feeling. I want so bad to shoot some color on mine, but these temps and humidity are murder.
Oh well sit back, have a cold one and crank up the AC for now.:ito: :rolleyes: |
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It's been in the low 90's here with low humidity. Next week it's supposed to really get hot. I just cut the hole in the side wall of the shop to install a swamp cooler. It should work great in the dry desert.
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I uncovered it today it felt good to see it without plastic over it. Plus just to prove to y'all that I still have it. :haha: http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...b/DSC03179.jpg |
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I thought about building a bed dolly out of wood, but had this old ladder rack laying around. I might adapt it to hold my bed and put some wheels on it to roll it around. I'll have to reinforce it some.
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I don't know how you put up with the heat. It gets 90 here and I'm dying.:devil: I here Montana is cool this time of year.:lol::lol: Bed on top storage under.:metal:
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Got the stand finished up and put some casters on it. I used the cab lift bar to lift the bed off in one piece. Warning it is not a one man job. It is very unstable. Shannon came over a helped out. Instead of rolling the lift around we decided it was best to roll the truck out then put the stand under it. Now it's hammer time. :lol: |
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nicely done! looking forward to the progress...
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Thats a cool way to use stuff laying around, after your done i need to borrow it :lol:
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Love the bed cart
Good thinkin' Alan T |
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As for the humidity. I was in Washington DC this July during the 100* days & it was miserable. I never have been in the humid heat before made me sick and dehydrated. Idaho has 100 degrees heat but desert humidity and is manageable to work in. |
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Excellent use of resource, Alan. (tree-hugger) LOL!;)
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Nicely done Alan
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Trying to decide if I should go with a smooth tailgate from Mar-K. http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/Images/Items/g5866ftgs.jpg Or a scripted one. http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/Images/Items/g5866ftgC.jpg |
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my 2c del |
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I'll cast a vote for the "smoothed" tailgate. Hard to tell for sure but it almost looks like the script gate has the script panel held on by rivets. With as much work as you are doing to shape up and smooth down your truck, I think the script tailgate would just look unfinished. I agree with del66, paint your oun choice of lettering on the smooth tailgate. My .02
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Thanks for the input on the T/G. The scripted looks more original and I kind of like that. I'm not fond of emblems or pinstripes. I like racing stripes, but not on this project. Plans for this truck are for a simple slick paint job with nothing on it, so I think a smooth T/G will work best for this project.;)
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with some of the smooth ones i've seen, it just looks too plain or out of place...but on a truck that's completely custom, i don't think it looks bad....either way, i'm sure it'll look just as slick as the rest of your truck
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I like the scripted ones, as the smooth ones look like an afterthought in my opinion. Whichever you choose, I know it will look good!
Just a thought, you could snap a couple of pictures, then post in the photoshop section, and have someone remove the scripting so you could actually see how it looks with your current setup, and smoothed.... |
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I think the stepside lettering looks pretty good,but like Del said, with smooth one you could do whatever you like
T |
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Used some 18 guage to try to make some rain gutters for the A post. To my knowledge noone makes them. I don't need them, but Ronnie does on his build. Over all they turned out pretty good. My shear won't shear 18 guage so I had the cut it out by hand. The angle needs to be a little sharper to be exactly like the factory, but my break won't go any further. It will work like it is. I only made one for now. I need to find someone that can shear 18 guage. I thought about trying 20 guage, but I don't have any. Here I used a short piece to practice my bends. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC03221.jpg Next is the final product. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC03223.jpg http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC03225.jpg http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC03227.jpg http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...b/DSC03226.jpg Next it's on to the bed...........Pics on the way. |
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Started to work the Lt bed panel. First I worked on shaving the chain area and the rear stake pocket.
http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03231.jpg I left this piece a little long and once I welded it I trimmed to fit. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03233.jpg Alll done with chain area and rear stake pocket http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03234.jpg Moved on up the bedside to another problem. I tried heat to straighten this out with no luck. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03235.jpg http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03238.jpg I put it on the vise and beat it back into submission and welded what was left of the hole. This is where it is now. Got pulled away. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03239.jpg |
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Here is a link to the thread in photoshop.
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I'm really happy to see you fill in that little notch.
http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03234.jpg I think every rear of a truck I've seen that has been 'shaved' this little detail has not been done, and it bugs the crap outta me. This is just another example of the fine detail that sets you above most of the guys Alan :thumbs: |
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I like the "chevrolet" logo on the 2002-2006 avalanche tailgates.. I always wanted to put it on a project... however I found out that those tailgates are plastic...
is there a way to bond that logo to a smooth metal gate? that would be my suggestion! |
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I'm with captianfab
I agree that notch should be filled by all with out chains, it is just another detail that many over look, but Alan's Keen eye for detail is at it again and definitely will be apparent when in shows. Tailgate script or no script I prefer the original script tailgates, this is my opinion. I don't like the script on the Mar-K tailgates, it is different from original and reversed from original and does not suite me, I like the latch system and wish they would make us a kit to adapt to the original tailgates and as for the links to hold the tail gate those are Ok too in keeping with the original equipment later models or the newer cables are cool too, So Alan in your case I'm voting for the non script and then you can letter it or do what ever design on the tailgate you wish, but what ever you do it will be detailed and cool we are all waiting to see what you do and then drool. |
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I use these pull pins to handle the panel until it is ready to weld then use tape to hold it where I want it til it is tacked. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03243.jpg Since I removed the stake pocket I needed a reinforcement to brace it up. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03245.jpg Getting ready to wipe. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03247.jpg This is all I can wipe at one time due to the heat (97 in the shop). Due to the heat I have to reduce the hardener that is used, in turn the crust stays sticky longer. It kicks really fast but due to the sticky crust it gums up the sand paper. Sometimes I can wipe the sticky stuff off with a laquer rag if I can't wait. It's still drying now. I should be able to sand pretty soon when it is fully cured without using thinner. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03249.jpg First wipe http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03248.jpg Nine wipes later. It took almost an hour just to wipe it. I couldn't take my time like I usually would. I just had to get it on as quick as possible. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03251.jpg |
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What product are you using on your wipes?
Thanks! |
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I love this stuff, but it's about $40/gallon. I knocked the crust off with 36 grit on an assortment of air tools. I don't like blocking so I do as much with air tools as possible. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03255.jpg http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03254.jpg Then I went over it with a long block with 80 grit. Still have a few low spots that need attention. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/DSC03256.jpg |
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I like that you are showing this part...
most of the time you see a bare metal shot, and then a shot of finished with paint.. I think that alot of people don't realize that to get any vehicle super straight like the 6 figure show cars, there will be a skim coat of some sort of filler over the whole vehicle...might only be a millimeter thick, but it will be there. |
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I like the stand Alan. |
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Yeah the heat makes you move a lot faster especially when it your money going into the materials that dry fast :lol:
Is that a Hutchins line sander? You like it? I have heard good and bad about them but i guess its all in how you take care of them.. |
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nice progress!
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:metal: As usual, beautiful work - Alan. :metal:
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Went out tonight did more sanding and filled some low spots. I'll knock it down tomorrow. KMACD71 did this in Photo shop for me. He took the letters off the T/G. He said doing a color change can't be done. I'm trying to find out what is needed to see my vision. Maybe I can do a search for a Hugger orange truck and just have the PS guys do some changes. That should be OK don't you think? |
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