Re: 1968
 

Very nice work George!!! ;)

Re: 1968
 

thanks nick I do try. How is the body work looking on the fenders?

Re: 1968
 

Thanks guy I see you are ready to shoot some 2K primer good luck.

Re: 1968
 

Thanks , I tried to call you today. It keeps being busy. I guess you are a busy guy. I had a problem and I thought you could help. The bottom door hinge on the pass side where it bolts to the truck. Well, I got two bolts that will not tighten up. The nut behind the pillar is stripped. What is the best way to solve this problem? I don't want just one bolt holding the door up. Could I re tap to a larger size or weld it to the pillar. I really don't like the weld idea. You never know what the future will bring. I got the door adjusted right and hate to move it again. It took me about two hours doing it.

Re: 1968
 

yea you are right I wasn't thinking when I posted. should I mount the cowl before the hood? Thanks Mike

Re: 1968
 

Today I finished the other door. It was a lot harder than the drivers side. I stripped two bolts on the bottom hinge. what to do now?????????????????? The truck looks like I stepped back a month or so. But I hope to have it all back together soon. I got to work out of the house tomorrow. So I don't think I will get a chance to do anything on the truck.
Both fender are off the truck and the grill. it looks bare bone now.

Re: 1968
 

Could you use a helicoil to recreate the original threads rather than tap to a bigger size? It gets a bit tricky with the captured nut, I suppose. I suppose either way you are removing the door again to drill out the holes. If the door is adjusted right at this point, though, you can drill a little hole through the hinge into the pillar and when it comes time to remount the door, use the drill bit as a dowel to line up the hinge to where you took it off from. I did that with Mustard after I got my doors lined up. Works like a charm. I can't claim credit for the idea, as I got it from Mr. Duckworth. I think I used a 1/16" or 3/32" drill bit for mine. One hole per hinge should do the trick.

....and now the rest of us will make sure to not overtighten our door bolts.;)

Re: 1968
 

That's a bad place to have a stripped out bolt plate, ask Vic what he would do in this situation.

Re: 1968
 

I did get to do something on the truck. I mounted the bed back on the truck. Here is the front picture of the truck after I pulled both fenders and grill. Maybe Monday I will get to re-mount the front clip.
http://i.imgur.com/jeIQnXnl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HXwBWqwl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/etjLCcJl.jpg
It looks like I need to repaint the inter grill/radiator support. It has some orange over spray on it. I knew I had to pull the grill off. Now I see why. Vic gave me a idea about the hinge bolts. To step up to the next size and drill them out and tap them.

Re: 1968
 

yea those backing plate nut are old and don't and can't stand a I/2 drive socket and a strong arm.

Re: 1968
 

George here is a picture of what the plate of screws that sits behind the door pillar for the door bolts to go in.

Re: 1968
 

Here is one more

Re: 1968
 

Vic said to try and use a M10x1.5 tap and the proper metric bolt and see if that works.

Re: 1968
 

That's what I did with mine and it worked perfect.

Re: 1968
 

Yea I know what it looks like. When I replaced the pillar on that side I removed it and put in another one that I thought was better. bad idea. Thanks Scott for posting the picture. I bet someone reading this post will thank you also. This place is a good place for information on these truck. And again thanks.

Re: 1968
 

I am going to try the tap that Vic said. I hope I have one. I have 100's of taps but want to take a bet that is one I don't have. anyway I will buy one if I don't.
George

Re: 1968
 

I did not work on my truck today. I worked with my Son-In-Law replacing the roof on his tool shed. It was in bad shape. it leaked and he did not think he was going to replace it. But he thought better when he priced a new shed. Sometimes age has it's advantages.

Re: 1968
 

Truck looks good, you'll be driving it in no time.

Re: 1968
 

I like to mount the cowl and get the body lines matched to the doors and along the top of the fenders, then mount your hood and set the body lines/gaps to the cowl and top of fenders. Hope this helps.

Re: 1968
 

Thanks for the information about the cowl. it helps.

Re: 1968
 

Yea I hope to drive it around the 1st of Aug.
need a complete exhaust
need a carb.
need front and rear bumpers for 67 thru 70 chrome.
wiring harness
as far as the truck I did nothing on it today.

Re: 1968
 

looks great!

Re: 1968
 

Thanks a lot man.

Re: 1968
 

Today I bought a tap M10x1.50 for the stripped door hinge bolts. Guys it worked out real sweet. I went ahead and done all three bolts. That way they would be all the same on that hinge. There is a big difference in the hex size from American bolts. The old ones are 3/8 and the Metric is 17 MM. But who cares of that. All I know it worked and no damage to the truck.
I am hoping to paint the black of the truck tomorrow. I shot the orange and didn't cover the inter grill/rad core support as you can see in the picture. Then I will paint the hinges areas so that they will all look good.

Re: 1968
 

George, you've been knocking it out lately. Your truck is looking great and as usual you're moving right along