Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
I got the rear bracing mocked up today with string to check for clearance issues. I put the trailing arm crossmember in upside down so the trailing arm brackets would be flipped, which was much easier than drilling out all of those rivets to flip the bracket!
Crossmember flipped and arms/axle in place at lowest drop height. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/e8dfbfb6.jpg String pulled to check bed floor clearance at full drop. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/83d11325.jpg X member bracing pattern laid out with string. The bottom tubing will have to be curved downward in the center to clear the driveshaft, which I can do with my tubing roller. The upper tubes will only need a slight bend to clear the trailing arms at full drop. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/4da9db66.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/59d5da08.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/c7303585.jpg The bottom tubes will be curved to roughly match the shape of the frame rails. I'll double check the amount of drop I'll need when I bring the driveshaft back to the shop and have the engine/T56 installed. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/0b3a46a3.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/6dae185d.jpg Also decided to make the exhaust run through the crossmember and out the side through the frame rail. This will give more ground clearance and make routing the exhaust tubing easier than trying to go over the rear axle. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/91248f62.jpg |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/0b3a46a3.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/6dae185d.jpg Also decided to make the exhaust run through the crossmember and out the side through the frame rail. This will give more ground clearance and make routing the exhaust tubing easier than trying to go over the rear axle. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/91248f62.jpg[/QUOTE] I've thought of running exhaust through the frame rail, can't wait to see how it works out for you. |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=466805 Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
Nice planning and great tip on the x member flip. That a Cougar in the background?
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
I'm really interested to see how you're going to make that X-member snake around the trailing arms and not have them come in contact at full compression or full droop. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but is the x-member going above or below the trailing arm on the frame attach point closest to the rear end?
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
Well, I found out that my tubing roller isn't going to be able to bend the lower tubes that have a tighter bend in them. It was pretty tough getting the slight curves in the upper tubes bent enough. I've used 16g and 18g tubing with it before and it did fine, but it didn't like the heavier 14g. I've got the upper tubes cut, shaped, welded, and clamped in place. It's amazing how much stiffer the rear half of the frame is with just the upper X clamped in place!!
I tapered down the ends of the tubing up front to make sure they cleared the cab when it goes back on. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/1a64ccec.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/9042e50c.jpg Slight bend to clear the bed floor braces. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/11c4d977.jpg Driveshaft clearance at full drop. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/2a3244a6.jpg Finished up, ready to be welded in place. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/ed948c47.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/30fc4d57.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/ee0b21ae.jpg Bed floor rail clearance. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/12a3a486.jpg http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/6877ebe0.jpg Trailing arm clearance at full drop. http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/5247996c.jpg |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
Looks good. What are you going to do about the bends in the lower tubes?
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
I am so totally lost, I cannot keep up with what you are doing...
But I am in such awe that I cannot stop looking. :metal: What you are doing sure looks good though, you know, for what its worth. |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
For what the top x brace has done due you think doing the bottom might be over kill.
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
Man this build is over the top!!! (and I thought I was crazy :-)
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
So with this much frame reinforcement, you are.....
dropping in a badazz drivetrain with sheetons of torque, or do you just live on a really bad road? I just figure this much engineering has to be for something (of course I probably missed it if you already explained it. Either it didnt sink in, or you didnt use small enough words and concepts for me to follow) Hahahahah. I do really like reading, Ok .... looking .... at this thread. I am gonna sit in the corner with my crayons now and not be a nusince.... |
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Crayons huh... Somebody should send you a PPG coloring book! :haha: I'm bracing the frame to keep it from twisting down its length. Right now it twist quite easily, much like a torsion bar would twist. The overall goal is to make the frame stiff so that the suspension works as it should instead of the frame deflecting and changing/reducing the effectiveness of the suspension's geometry. I'd like to eventually autocross the truck occasionally just for fun; I really enjoy driving anything that is nimble and responsive but I don't think just bolting on performace suspension parts will get the truck to the level I want it. A stiffer frame should make the truck more predictable, more solid feeling, have less sqeaks and rattles, and give a better overall driving experience. As far as the drivetrain, I'll eventually build an original 250 inline 6 for it, looking to get 350+hp from it. It'll get backed by a T56 six speed and a posi rear end. Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
Very nice thought process, looks like you have thought of everything. ;) I'm watching and learning.
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
Astronaut love what's happening with your build, I am curious though how or what is your plan to extract 350 hp out of that 250 inline? I know they are doing crazy things with the inline down in Brazil so I know it's possible. Just wondered what your thoughts were on the motor so far. Thanx...Vernski:burnout:
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Here's what I've got planned so far. The hp numbers I posted are just a rough guess, but it shouldn't be too hard to make around 1.4 hp per cubic inch with a roller cam; my vw motor will make right at 1.5 hp/ci with a solid flat cam. 250x1.4 is 350, and I'm not sure how many cubic inches will be added from boring yet. Bore the block enough to clean up the cylinders and leave enough meat for any future rebuild. Balanced stock crank. Lighten the flywheel. Eagle forged 4340 rods, 5.7" Forged pistons, haven't found any "off the shelf" yet. I think it can be bored enough to fit 305 pistons. Head bolt boss removed from intake port, lump port kit installed. Larger valves, ported heads, decked for more compression. Block decked for .040-.050 deck height/quench. 13:1ish compression (will be running E85, 105 octane) Solid roller cam, wanting it to pull to around 7000-7200 rpm. Comp Cams Aluminum roller rockers, 1.75 ratio. ARP main and head stud kit. Triple Weber/Dellorto 2 barrel side draft carbs, or triple throttle bodies/efi. 6 into 1 header, single 3" exhaust, magnaflow/dynomax straight through muffler? I'll probably go though a few mufflers to get the sound I want, I'm pretty picky about how I want it to sound. |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
I like the race magnum that they have. My buddy has them on his race truck and I them on my Duramax Diesel and they sound great.
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With the dual exhaust there is still the option of installing electric exhaust dumps at an H or X crossover. No doubt you are planning on a hotter ignition system, if not full electonic? What are your plans for air flow? Cold air induction, or some form of forced air like a blower or ram air? And I am guessing you are going to go with the smaller high torque starter as well, or will your flywheel shaving not make that a good idea? I guess the last thing you want to do is disintegrate your flywheel.... I hope to keep up with your engine build a lot easier than I can with the re-engineering of your frame!! This is going to be a great build...glad I got into it on the first posting !! Rock on man !! |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/ has parts and tips including ignition.
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
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I poked around on there for awhile and didn't really find much info that I thought would be helpful for my 250 build. He posted that 200-250 hp is about all you can get for a "streetable" engine and 300hp wouldn't be streetable at all? 200hp isn't even 1 hp per cubic inch and there's a ton of factory engines (even old ones) that make atleast 1 hp/ci or more that are perfectly driveable and mild mannered. I think he's mostly into old school style power adders and not more modern (and better performing) parts. Newer style triple Weber's/Dellorto's with individual manifolds gets rid of reversion and the air/fuel charge problems that plenum/log type manifolds have, so they retain bottom end torque/smoothness even with huge cams. With pump E85 (105 octane) I can run alot of compression that helps add even more low end torque. I think most people that hot-rod inline engines do it for the old school style instead of actual performance gains and that's why there aren't many modern/newer technology hop up parts for them. |
Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
I don't know why I've been posting about 6 into 1 headers, there's only four exhaust ports... :dohh:
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I cut my hood support in the front last weekend as well, like what you are talking about for forced (ram) air. Cannot wait to see how you do yours!! |
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