Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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more with the new Rear Disc Brakes and then onto a full roller!!!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Full Roller now... still some work to do, but it it movable now!!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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few with Ruler to see how low it is.
Currently there is 0 air in bags and it is on the rubber snubs front and rear |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Happy w/it?
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Now its onto brake lines, air lines and fuel lines, routing and securing to frame or ....
I have the fuel line - PTFE with all -6an fittings, all air lines which i can only do so much with until the cab is mounted because the lines go into the cab to the gauges. The air tank and pump will be mounted in the bed. My issue is where to get brake lines. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Looking good Jeff!
Appreciate your time on Thursday, will keep you updated. P. :D |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok, so interesting thing happened. I was looking at where to position the pan hard bar to center the truck, making sure to set it close to "Ride Height" and i noticed a few things. The axle will move from one side to the other side by a good amount. From approx. 1/2 of travel with rear the axle will move 1 to 1.5" to one side when all the way down and then when fully extended 1 to 1.5" the the other way from a neutral position. I found that very interesting. I knew it moved, just never really seen it but with no air in bags the travel is easy and noticeable. With all that said, i have good shocks that allow for alot of travel, enough that i am concerned with the load it puts on the bags when frame is lifted and the rear is allowed to be free floating. It puts what i would call too much "Pull" on them. So, i am looking at installing some kind of rearend travel limiting straps. My big issue is i do not want to weld tabs onto the frame of the axle as they are all powder coated. So i am looking for ideas. Anyone?
Thanks for the time. |
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You'll get a feel for your ride height pressures & will be able to adjust height w/fairly 'obvious' adjustment limits. |
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Ok, now i have a question for the exhaust. I am looking at doing a kit myself. There are several to pick from, 2.5" or 3", mild steel or stainless steel. I am wondering what everyone else has done? A Shop will be about $600.00 to build and install.
I have long tube headers, I want the exhaust to exit just before the rear tires on each side with flat type exhaust tips (kinda like NASCAR), i do own a miller Tig machine, now it has been a while since i used a tig welder, but i am not scared to go again at it. Costs for mild to Stainless is crazy! So, with all that said, suggestions? Size, type... Thanks. |
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Y headers that were for my 69 C10. Not sure they will fit, but also i am not concerned about having to use them or buy a different set, shorties, ceramic coated, ..... I should look into this first. Suggestions? |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok, so i believe i found a set of long tubes that are ceramic coated. They have 1.5" primary's and 3" Collector.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Excellent detail, nice work. I like the Hurst shifter (funny, sometimes it's the little things that catch the eye), a real classic touch
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Beyond that, 2.5" true duals w/a H-pipe or X- crossover would be a decent set-up. Summit has a aluminized universal kit as well as a SS version. |
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Build is looking better and better Jeff :bo2:
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