Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8926156)

Sorry, Kurt. I didn't get you. Did your '69 have a Mr Goodwrench 350 or a 307?
Love the coffee table gag.
Personally, I have no experience with running a 307. I've had 350s, a 454 and I'm on my third * 292 L6.
The BBC 454 was big ugly beautiful brute with a bigdog thirst. In my '67 4x4 K/10 Suburban it was a tank. Off road, it was bruteforce vs nature. But the fuel gauge needle spun down in equal and opposite reaction to the speedo needle going up. I had the stock underbelly 20 gallon tank, and a PO's homebrew 16 Gal aux tank [made from an Army surplus gunpowder can -- w/ no gas gauge], even then I had to keep a lookout for gas stations on the way. 6 City -- 8 Highway. And only 91 octane please. Not a feasable rebuild when gas is around $2.95/Gal for Regular. Also Fred Flintstone had better brakes.
Not sure what displacement V8 was in my '71 Jimmy when I bought it. Local Unocal mechanics said it was a strong motor when checking it out for me
before I bought it. PO said it was a 327. He lied. Might have been a 307 or a 350. It flunked Pima County emissions. I played around with the carbs. It came with a non-original QJet. Traded that in at Checker Auto -- not knowing any better -- got a dog of Reman QJet back. Then I tried a Holley 780 CFM doublepumper, a friend gave me free. I was using some 105 Octane, when it sucked valves. Valves on Cyl's 6 and 7 got loose enough to crush the ceramic middles of both spark plugs. [Some bad JuJu that's over my head there.]
Anyway I bought a fresh Crate 350, Weiand intake, Carter Performance 9625S AFB, and Heddman headers. Winning combo. Later, a GM HEI.
If you had an L6 [I-6s are in Fords and Toyotas] I'd be emotionally involved, as my C/10 came with a 292 and I've rebuilt 2 of them. If you had a 250, I'd talk you into a 292. It's got a lot of torque, doesn't rev very high, but mule-like endurance and longevity. I got 250,000 out of a 1977 build.
[* Original Engine -- rebuilt after 25 years in boxes]

Flame war topics are:
V8 vs L6
Headers vs Rams Horn
QJets vs Holleys vs Edlebrocks [Carter dropped out of the Carb game]
Wix vs AC Delco

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8926876)

Yeah, I hate it when some ''kid'' cuts in front of me -- seeing 5 car lengths -- and zips in, sensing his opportunity. He doesn't know he's now in my stopping zone, and if I crush his Prius, it was his fault.
[OK, just road rage fantasy here. I know I'm legally at fault if I hit someone from behind.]

Still thinking about a crate motor? You might price all the PHX dealerships.

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8940730)

On the '68 C/10 Stepside, I swapped in a 3.73 12 Bolt Corp rear with Eaton posi when my first diff burned up. That was Mid '80s. Got it off a '69 GMC in a junkyard in Tucson and had Simmons Enterprises set it up for me. Had to buy one new axle shaft from the Chevy dealer. Still running good.

The differential and axle bearings burned up my '67 K/10 Suburban. [3.73 12 Bolt, of course]This time [Mid '90s] GM was on strike, so I couldn't find new axles. Calling around, Moser Custom Axles made me the best deal. New 6 lug ''stock-like'' custom axles for a good price. Actually the hub flange was an inch and a half lesser in diameter than stock. Moser told me they'd warranty them for life. OK Sold. Also put in an Auburn posi. Tucson Differential did the set-up. Then a carb fire grounded the Sub, and she sat.

In 2010, I had to pull some old IH Scout hulks [an ex-friend had left on my property for 8 years] out of their ruts with my '71 GMC also 3.73 12 Bolt with factory Eaton Posi. About a couple weeks later, the rear end on the Jimmy lunched at a CircleK, a half mile from my house.
I pulled the rear prop shaft and limped home in front wheel drive. Then Dennis, my Buddy, and I cannibalized the Suburban's Auburn posi rear and put it on the Jimmy. Still working great.

I do need to get the GMC's OEM Eaton rearend rebuilt some day, but 25 - 30 years ago I dropped a grand doing that. So I know I can't afford it right now, since there's precious little work.
Positraction is neater than sliced bread, though. Only thing I miss is deliberately fishtailing on dirt roads. That was fun, but Posi won't let you do it.

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8946990)

Cool bike. I have a Raleigh Royale in the same color. Royale was a 5-speed with rams horn handlebars. I bought it in the PX at MCAS Iwakuni, Japan. We could take our bikes with us [on flatbed semitrailers] when we deployed to other bases in the West Pac. Kadena Okinawa, and Cubi Point, Phllipine Islands. At a bike shop in Iwakuni I had it modified with a SunTour rear gear set and new double sprocket front crank = 10 speed, and 27'' wheels. Needs work and a new saddle. It had a Brooks leather saddle. The kind that gives you a free proctology exam with every long ride. Packrats ate the leather.
Who's Ken Block?

Originally Posted by KevinK7 (Post 8947024)

That is a very 'Kool' bike Kurt :) ...those things bring crazy money these days...

Originally Posted by 89AKurt (Post 8947106)

I'm familiar with those saddles, avoided them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuDN2bCIyus

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8947258)

OK, Now I know who Ken Block is. Wow, that's some stunt. Not sure if his Ford Focus is the front wheel drive or all wheel drive. Drifting with FWD is easier, but in some slow-mo shots, it looks like the rear wheels are smoking too. If not driven, friction would have slowed them down. I guess the hockey stick control modulates power to the rear differential. I thought it was a bootlegger brake, but there's more going on there.
Imagine all the P.O.-ed S.F. commuters!
I learned to drive in the Hollywood Hills. Some of those moves would've been handy there.

Originally Posted by 89AKurt (Post 8947450)

His Focus is purpose built with AWD. His Mustang "Hoonicorn" is too. I'm jealous of his life, doing what he loves, lives in Park City, Utah. But he should get braces, gap in his teeth kinda bothers me. :lol:

Originally Posted by 89AKurt (Post 8965185)

I've been seeing a wide range of opinions about keeping the 307, if modifications are worth it (generally not worth it). Long as it purrs like it is, not touching it.

I'm planning to go camping, in the Monument Valley area, depending on how it's going other places nearby too. Was thinking that deflating the tires on dirt/sandy roads would help, so got a compressor. Tested it out, found the power cord needs to be about 6 feet longer.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f1d4c3d5_c.jpg

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8965234)

You can rig a longer DC extension if you can solder. [...]
BTW, What size tires are you running?

And if you're confident in your present engine, keep it.

Originally Posted by 89AKurt (Post 8979280)

Thanks for checking on me, again.
I had a new "one wire" alternator installed, so the voltage regulator bundle of snakes has been removed.
I am not having working front turn signals, the back ones work, and the dash turn signal lights aren't flashing. They did work. So where do I start to diagnose the problem? I looked at the switch at the steering wheel, cleaned up and added lithium grease so it moves better.
I am now looking for a color wiring diagram. I found a free one when I had the '69, that went with the truck when I sold it.
Thread for reference: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
Source to buy a diagram, which should be better clarity than downloading and printing one: https://classiccarwiring.com/product...wiring-diagram
Another thread, but must have to be signed up to see their diagram: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
This ought to be a good source, but I don't see headlights/turn signals?: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856
Another thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
Here is the front of the diagram! This also is about the temperature gauge acting weird which is happening now for me. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine (Post 8979452)

The Color Schematic is pinned on the Electrical Page of this forum, iirc.

New Turn Signal Switches run about $50 from the vendors. I've found swapping in a fresh one solves a lot of gripes. Gremlins can chew on a lot of little details in 53 years.
I gave up on electrical temp gauges. The new ones have a different Resistance value. A mechanic said some mumbojumbo about using a couple [1/4W?] resistors in parallel, but, as an electrician, I knew that one would be marginally longer than the other, and create a bias. Putting a Mechanical Temperature gauge in its place is not difficult. Advantages are:
1] Better, more accurate temp indication
2] Works even when power is off.
3] Packrats can't chew thru the wires.
4] Lasts a long time.
5] Looks cool.

Gauges shown are -- Auto Gage Tach on Steering Column. Stewart-Warner Water Temp, Moon Manifold Vacuum, AutoMeter Oil Ppessure.