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Finally some progress. Painted the firewall/cowl and the roof this past week. Next step is to put the frame back under the body. I was planning on leaving the rotisserie attached to the back and support the front with a wide board like a 2x12 under the roof at the front doors. I'd make piers on either side with concrete block or 6x6 so my heavy duty screw type jack stands are on top.
Paul |
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Looks good! Glad to see you are making some progress on it. LockDoc |
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Looking good Paul. Lotta real estate to spray at one time :lol:
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Nice work!!
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Lots of great work there!
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Well this has been a long time coming.
Couple notes: I used the Energy Suspension 3.4149G 1967-72 CHEV/GMC/.SUBURBAN polyurethane body bushing kit. It was missing several bushings but a call to Energy suspension got them shipped out really quick. Some of the bolts are the wrong style head and length. Research of the bolts shows that they are Grade 5 bolts. Two spots should have carriage bolts not hex head. Grade 5 carriage bolts are something I can get at my local hardware store. The weirdest thing is that one of the body mount holes does not line up! I used a 68 2wd GMC body and put it on a 70 4wd Chevy frame. All the other body mounts line up. This makes me wonder if in fact the 2wd body is different from the 4wd body. I'll post pics of the difference later. Right now I'm so happy to have the body on the frame! Paul |
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Coming along pretty good. Looks nice.
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"The weirdest thing is that one of the body mount holes does not line up! I used a 68 2wd GMC body and put it on a 70 4wd Chevy frame. All the other body mounts line up. This makes me wonder if in fact the 2wd body is different from the 4wd body."
Nope! Figured it out. The bodies are the same. |
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Looks great
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looking good ......
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Nice work. You've come a long ways.
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Inside done with base. Clear going on tomorrow!
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It's been fun doing mechanical work for a change instead of body work! Drive shafts rebuilt with new universal joints. Also new transfer case output shaft seals and speedy sleeves.
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Nice work sir!!
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I think I would rather do body work....:) LockDoc |
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Paul |
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If it has been that long I guess it would be...:) LockDoc |
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Sandblasted and painted the shift levers. The np205 transfer case shifter has bushings that aren't available anymore. After some research I made a "wet bolt" for the pivot shaft. I took out a 7/16 x 2 1/4" bolt that had lots of rust. The bolt has a small hole drilled along it's length and then through the side with a grease zerk tapped into the head. This will allow the pivot to be greased. The local hardware store didn't have nylon washers so I made some from a plastic milk crate and a hole saw.
Paul |
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"Necessity, the mother of invention"....:)... Good job! LockDoc |
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Yikes it's been 7 months since I've updated the build thread. Now that the body is back on the frame and it's settled into position, the quarters are finally straight. I'm not sure what to do next. Originally I had planned on finishing up all the bodywork and paint the truck in my new pole barn. Then do the wiring and mechanical stuff. The town took 4 months to approve the plans, the guy doing site work is backed up and the pole barn company gave a March delivery/construction date. I wasn't going to do the mechanical work till the body was done. Below is a list of what I need to do. Just so I'm not staring at the truck for the next 8 months what mechanical work should I do? Any recommendations/suggestions are welcome.
Body: Hood: Strip, sand and do body work Hang the doors Install the core support Sandblast door hinges Mechanical Brake booster and master Wiring Radiator Hoses Steering Clutch linkage Finish engine connections Paul |
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there you are!
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I think I would start with the steering, then the clutch linkage, then the booster and master, then the radiator and hoses, then the wiring. I don't know what you have left as far as engine connections but if you have anything at the back of the block I would do that before installing the booster and master..... LockDoc |
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One thing wish I had done at the stage you're at would have been to fabricate some mounting points for 2nd row shoulder harness seat belts.
I am going to take advantage of the impending repair work and convert my fuel tank to a non-vented gas cap. I am tired of the gas cap leaking when doing going around a tight right turn at speed with more than 1/2 a tank of fuel. Previously I installed a vent in the fuel tank sender and will route it to the driver's side and hook it to 72 Suburban style evap set up. Might be something to consider. What are you planning for bumpers? Have your rebuilt the door hinges? The kick panel vent doors on mine needed new seals installed. How is your heater core? It sure would be easier to replace with no front clip. I don't remember if you replaced the spring shackles when you installed the new springs. |
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Lots of good tips here thanks! I don't think I'll do the second row 3 point seatbelt brackets. I'm not sure I'll even put the second row seats in. Funny my Sub was my daily driver from the early 80's till 1997. Never had a problem with gas coming out of the gas cap! I have bumpers but haven't done anything with them yet. They could be sandblasted and primed. I'll probably go with white painted bumpers. I'll have to look up the rebuild kits for all the door hinges. Not sure I'll need to though. My 68 donor body was from a low mileage truck but I'll definitely check them out. A few months ago I rebuilt and detailed the heater box complete with new seals and a new heater core. One of the original 70 style kickpanel vents disappeared. Both 68 vents are in my pile of parts so I'll install them. Where did you find seals for them? Maybe that's something I can install too. The springs are the originals. Ride height is good but I should look up new shocks. Originally the truck was non power drums on all four corners. The guy I sold it to converted to power drums. I need to source a replacement master and booster assembly. The one in it is pretty ratty. Paul |
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Paul
thanks for the update... congrats on the new construction I like to check it out in the spring ...we did some major Reno last summer added a family room and a kitchen out to the pool I haven't done a darn thing to my trucks :( remember if you need a hand let me know. I do have a car trailor now seeing up a wench here shortly if you need help on relocating the Burb Jess |
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Maybe consider just rebuilding the driver's door hinges. I didn't rebuild the hinges on my Burban but, after 30k miles the driver's door is starting to get loose. I can feel the door just starting to drag on the latch when I open the door. I may have pull the drivers door hinges over the winter and rebuild them. I mentioned the shackles as they have quite an effect on the how the truck drives down the highway. Worn ones will give you that wandering down the road feeling. Many folks don't replace them when they do a front end rebuild and the truck never quite drives as it should. Don't ask how I know this. Man oh man there's nothing better than white painted bumpers on a K model in my book! :metal: Looking forward to the end result. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...698377&page=10 |
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Picking away at things. Steering column installed and waiting to install the rebuilt master and booster. Of course the gold cad paint is in USPS limbo. Working on the drivers door now. The recessed screw holes for the door latch were pulled through so had to make new ones.
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It’s getting too cold to paint here in NJ so the suburban is getting some mechanical work done. Installed spark plug heat shields, master cylinder/brake booster, clutch linkage and working on the e brake. Was missing the bracket that holds the end of the front cable to the frame so I made one.
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Looking good Paul
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Nice work! I love doing that kind of stuff.
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Finished off the clutch linkage today. Original lower rod was shot and also was poorly lengthened. New rod from LMC was also too short. Cut it apart and welded in a 4" section of grade 8 bolt of a similar diameter. Came out pretty good. Also finished off the emergency brake cables. Finally got the correct length rear cables from Classic. The center cable was too long so it got shortened.
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Still at it. Installed the spark plug heat shields, carburetor and sandblasted and painted the battery box, radiator clamps and hood latch assembly. Not sure what's next. Maybe install the interior wiring harness or restore the cluster.
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Carb linkage
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Looks good. Keep pluggin' away at it....:) LockDoc |
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